mfizz

I am revisiting this because I'm finally going to change the pump. I thought that both v488 and v188 were the same. Upon inspection of the part the front pump (v188) is definitely the Bosch 965 567 The back pump v488 (pump c which is the issue) doesn't look like the same one in the front. I don't want to dismantle the whole thing to check. But is it possible the front one is Bosch and the rear one is Pieburg? From reading posts on others forums, mainly @Crasher on the issue I thought they were the same part number.

Could disconnect, but, do need them operational. Front fogs aren't a legal requirement, here at least. But during day light fog, on the highway sometimes just want the rear ones on just so the guy behind can keep a safe distance.

I am sure this sounds silly, but can you turn on just the rear figs only? I have both front and rear. Pulling out the dial once turns on front ones and the second time turns on the rear ones. But on the second pull, both are on. I just need the rears.

I have just left it as is for now. I will replace the pump eventually. But I don't think it's causing any damage given how cold it is right now and I don't use the rest function. Unless someone thinks different?

It's possible, a few people have done it in the forum's, have a search. But it's not cheap I think the cockpit alone costs close to $600 USD, last time I checked.

I thought it was the case as well, but the 6-speed one (415 0744 09) is an active part that's available that's not been superceded (at least by Luk) as is the 7-speed one (415 0872 09). The only tech specification I can find is that it has 6 bores lol

Hi I need to get a new flywheel for my car, a Skoda Superb 2016 2.0 TDI CRLB 6-Speed DSG. When I queried skoda-parts they said this is the part Flywheel 2.0TDI CR DSG Luk 03L105266EF (skoda-parts.com) which clearly states its a 7-Speed. Now when I go directly on the LUK website enter my model details, it too says this is the one the one that should fit (LuK 415 0872 09) is also 7-speed. The part numbers are: 03L 105 266 EF 03L 105 266 AK 03L 105 266 CL 03L 105 266 CM 03L 105 266 DE 03L 105 266 DF 03L 105 266 EG However when I put the same part number in onlinecarparts etc and on the luk oem or any direct search I can get the a 6-Speed option available. (LuK 415 0744 09). But when I write my reg down and fill in details on most sites it says the one that's compatible is the 7-speed one. So what's the difference are the interchangeable? If Someone can please help clarifying this for me. Thanks

Thank you for your response. I checked the fuses and they had continuity and they were fine. Did swap with another 10a just to be sure. Next step will be get under the car to have a look and trace the wire. I have a feeling that the pump itself is gone. When I turned the car off the other day I heard a "glug glug" sound almost as if the the pump was trying to turn on. Idea of getting under the car is so daunting now. Will feedback on the progress.

Could do with some assistance please. I am sure others have had this issue. I just want to see what I should be trying before the obvious replace the entire pump.

Wow, how's onlinecarparts as a website to order from, never used them before

Had the engine light pop up on my 2016 superb CRLB. P26F700 - Coolant Pump "C" Supply Voltage Circuit static Can someone tell me which pump this is? Is this a common fault? Should I be checking other things?

So I got a garage to do some brief investigation on a ramp. They said sounds like the knocking is coming from gearbox most likely the dual mass fly wheel. Assuming that is the case I guess I'd have to replace not just the fly wheel but other bits too. Can someone tell me all the bits that I should replace whilst the garage is in there

So as the title says and apologies for being vague. I have a rather weird rattle with no consistent pattern. Sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not. It's definitely not there when the car is accelerating. It sounds like it's coming from NOT the top of the engine, as I cannot hear it as clear when I pop the bonnet open. I will add a recording when it's night time to avoid daytime traffic noise but any ideas what I should focus on. I should add then initially few months back I heard a squeaking sound which has now stopped and turned into this.

I have a Superb 16MY DSG. Just wondering if my car has brake wear indicator because I haven't replaced the brakes since I got the car (2+ years) and whilst everything seems fine (braking is good, no juddering) visually looks like I have 3/4mm left, I am now curious. Is there a value I can check (if I have it) how much the sensor is picking up from VCDS / OBD11?

Excuse my terminology, the slider thing has dislodged from the actual vent the swings. Anyone know the best way to tackle this? I don't really want to remove the entire centre console for this.

So I checked it using an actual voltmeter. Doesn't help that it's extremely warm here right now so the car first 2 days started as per normal 2-3 turns. Before start-> after start 12.14 -> 14.05 Took 3-4 12.18 -> 13.26 Took 5-6 12.04 -> 14.30 Took about 12 turns to start On all 3 occasions, it says power consumption is high and start stop is non existent now. Just comes up with an A crossed out. Just wondering if it may be worth resetting the battery, as if I have installed a new one? Or not a good idea.?

When you say what electrical load on "battery and alternator" I think you just mean what load because I assumed the alternator would naturally just take over after the car starts. In terms of load, Nothing really apart from the columbus and maybe the fan (most of the time its off in the beginning anyway. I also have a dashcam running but it has this message with it running or not.

So lately my car has been displaying this message on the auto start stop information . Power consumption high. When I have the AC running it also says, Engine must be running. I understand this usually points to the battery needing to be replaced, however when I plug diagnostic in on a running car the system shows 13V. I will check physically using a voltmeter but I think it is supposed to be 14? Also when the car has been off for a while say over night or 1/2 days it takes almost 3-4 seconds I want to make sure its the battery and not the alternator that might be causing problems. How can I test the alternator to see if it is working correctly? I think I am on the right track here but open to advice.

I do have a spare car I can use in the interim. The best people the refurb shocks ( so I have heard are in Poland) unfortunately due to brexit we now have to pay silly custom charges of like 125 euros. per package. The cost of actual refurb is 145 per shock considering that the shock itself (DCC) costs in the region of £300 for bilstein and £350 for oem, seems like a bargain.

there are a couple of videos here that install it on a superb mk3:

I am sure 2015 spec comes with android auto already.

Considering the value of the shocks, especially the DCC ones, does anyone know any companies in the UK that refurbish them?

One of the reasons I went with INA and not someone like dayco/gates was exactly this. An oem produced part vs one produced by the same company but aftermarket can be of 2 different qualities. Dayco supply oem but they had mixed reviews about the aftermarket. INA (Scahaeffler) are manufactured in Germany and also supply oem hence why I went with them as their wasn't much negative press about them. Can only go of off what is available on the net, even if they are manufactured in china, I don't want to play lottery with what quality i'd get

I should have probably taken what the dealer said with a pinch of salt then lol.

Yes I did... I bought INA version of the pump and timing belt kit. I didn't want to go super cheap but at the same time didn't want to go super expensive either. INA is a good brand and they supply OEM so it was a good choice for me. Also I couldn't find many suppliers that stocked both timing belt and water pump as a kit. So all in all yes you do need the switchable pump. You cannot replace it with a non switchable one.