JohnnyRich

Does short the two wires together mean detaching the wires and bridging the contacts with a paper clip or something? I'm not sure how the circuit works; is one side an earth?

Yup, wheels off, checked the pads on both sides of the disc through the front of the caliper, etc, loads of pad left. I might disconnect the wire and reconnect it and see if that helps!

I've had the brake pads warning light and message come on intermittently for a while, and now it comes on every time I start the car. So I got some new pads and got stuck into replacing the pads, only to find that all the pads on every corner have plenty of meat left, in fact hardly less than new pads. I also checked the wiring to the front pads which do not look as if they have been touched and are perfectly intact. So, why the message, and how can I switch it off? I have now got a refund on the pads I bought, and the braking is perfect, but I need to get the car MoT tested and wonder if the warning light will constitute a fail perhaps?

Right, thanks Phil. Yes, my wife's VW Polo has a DAB radio which works all the time, which caused me to question the terrible reception on my Superb. I guess it is the front screen causing the loss of signal then; I'll check and see whether it's feasible to fit an external aerial anywhere, but I do wonder whether the newer Superbs with factory-fitted DAB radios have the aerial fitted to the rear window as you describe (although hardly an economical solution!).

Does anyone know whether the 2011 Superb Elegance Mk II would be fitted with a front screen with a "metal-based solar film" in it, which would stop the reception of a good DAB signal? The suppliers of my DAB radio have suggested that this might be the cause of a break-up in signal quality all the time, preventing the DAB signal being received correctly; if this is the case, has anyone any ideas on how I could mount an external aerial for a DAB radio, one which doesn't look cheap and nasty?

Gentlemen... I have now replaced the regulator on my 2011 Superb, using the usual web based training courses on Youtube (unfortunately I don't speak Russian/Polish/Serbo-Croat so didn't understand a word), and sourcing the parts from Ebay. I was astonished that the Skoda dealer quoted me well over £100 MORE for the part than the equivalent on Ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194054042937, so I decided to risk the cheaper version. To all intents and purposes, it looks and feels the same as the original; maybe the cables are not as strong, but I think they'll last the life of the car. Importantly, everything fitted as it should, so it was £60 well spent I hope. The door card was pretty straightforward to remove, although as usual there are two fiddly wiring connectors which were really annoying - a very small one needed an electrical screw driver inserted to lift the plastic to separate the connection, The other point I found was that the plastic pins that locate in the holes in the door were mostly broken away from the door card; the result of previous removal I think. But there are 5 screws (two large, 3 small) holding the door card on, so they don't really contribute much. In my case the cable had frayed and properly jammed the spool under the motor, so when everything was removed (unclipped wiring, regulator, electric motor, and steel plate) I had to cut the cables to be able to move the window into position to remove the dowels. Tip number one: with the window freed, I used a few strips of very wide Sellotape looped over the top of the door and stuck to the window to keep it in position. If you make sure you have put a tag on each end of the Sellotape, you can lift the tape off, reposition the window and replace it. This is essential when fitting the new regulator. Tip 2: the Torx screws holding the regulator "arms" do not have to be fully removed; the holes are slotted at the top, so the screws can be loosened and the arms lifted up and away. A bit of a fiddle, but stops the screws falling into the void at the bottom of the door. Which brings me to... Tip 3: Do yourself a favour and lay a large rag or towel along the bottom of the door, over the foam rubber buffer (this I tried to remove, but it was REALLY well stuck down). I did loss a screw or two, and a window dowel, into the depths of the door skin and it was murder trying to get them out. My arm looked like I had been attacked by a razor-slash gang. If the window is "floating" without support, it does have a tendency to slip out of the front channel. Yes, this happened to me before I thought of the Sellotape trick, and this means removing the stuck-on plastic cover towards the front of the door to fiddle it back into place. I just taped it back into place after the job was done. Other points arising: the window needs lifting to a position where the white plastic dowels/roll pins can be removed from the carrier on each side. Don't loosen the screws on the arms before taking out these dowels/roll-pins. There is an inner and outer pin going through the carrier and window, and these are just drifted out using a shouldered drift, small for the inner pin and larger for the outer. But don't go too mad with a hammer on the drifts; you are trying to move stuff through glass and shattering the window doesn't bear thinking about. When fitting the roll-pins back into the new carrier and window, slightly loosen the screws on the arms to allow a bit of float to locate the roll-pins better; it's still a bit of a struggle, and you may need something solid to push the pins in from behind. So, not an easy job but worth noting the tips above. Good luck guys!

There is obviously a window virus going about. I am having exactly the same problem as you guys, my driver's door window started to close, got halfway, made a few grunting sounds and will only go down fully. I have checked the Youtube videos (hilarious) and removed the trim, but am a bit worried about what to do next. Any detailed information on getting to the regulator would be most welcome, plus some idea of the cost of a replacement? Cheers.

Thanks guys, I knew I'd find the answer from the ever-helpful BRISKODA forum! I found the BT module under the seat as you said, disconnected it, and no more messages asking me to connect the phone - and no error messages either. As usual, the only problem was finding how to unclip the connector; for the benefit of those who may want to do this too, there is a small black locking clip behind the big white retaining clip which has to be depressed (I used an electrical screwdriver) and then the white clip can be lifted all the way to the back and the connector pops out. Photo attached. Thanks again for your help.

Thanks for the replies; so mbgar... that was the first thing I did, and I thought it might give me an option to switch off Bluetooth, but no. langers2k: that sounds like a plan, assuming I could find the BT module! But I'm a bit worried it might produce a load of warnings! Which brings me to... J.R.: So how do you recode the canbus gateway? Presumably this needs some sort of diagnostic equipment - which I don't have? This confirms my fear that disconnecting anything is likely to produce error messages or warning lights, but unless this affects the car's functions maybe I could try this. Any more advice most welcome!

I am testing an Android Stereo SatNav unit at the moment, which obviously links directly to my phone by Bluetooth. But even after removing the Columbus SatNav and removing the pairing to Skoda_BT from my phone, the car keeps requesting a pairing with the phone; I am presented with the pairing code and my phone jumps into life with a request to enter the code, and I have to cancel it on the car and the phone. I have checked SETUP on the Columbus unit and the MFD, but cannot find a switch for the car BT. So, does anyone know how to disable Bluetooth on a Superb Mk II?

OK, that is quite a bit cheaper than the one I have in mind! But then the Vanku is 4Gb RAM with 64Gb storage, and I know it fits the Superb. So I'll be ordering it soon, time to act Thanks for your help.

HI Phil, could you let me know how much you paid for this Android unit? And maybe post a link to the site where you bought it? I assume it will fit my Superb the same as it fitted your Octavia.

Maxidot? Is this a German thing? Was ist?

I am in a similar situation, with my Columbus unit in my 2011 Superb becoming unreliable and cutting out, and thinking I'd like to get an after-market replacement with Android. The one I have homed in on is sold my Amazon, and seems to tick all the boxes - Vanku Android 10, DAB+, links to car features, etc., so any advice from forum members would be most welcome if they have had experience of this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vanku-Android-Navigation-QUALCOMM-Fast-boot/dp/B08CHGNZJK/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=vanku+android+10+Satnav&qid=1613904756&s=electronics&sr=1-4 TBH, I have never been very impressed by the Columbus satnav; it's route mapping is poor with many deviations from the correct route, and the maps are hopelessly out of date, even on the most recent version. My Waze or Google Maps apps are streaks ahead, and give real-time traffic advice. Also, I would quite like DAB+ included too!

The amount of coolant I lost was minimal, but I did use clamps on the hoses and some plastic bungs on the cooler. The coolant level dropped by about 1/2" only, hardly worth topping up for!