srane4213
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Posts posted by srane4213
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I had a similar issue with my 1.9 TDI Alh 66Kw
Try cleaning the MAP sensor which sits on the intercooler...doing this solved the issue for me. -
Hi all.
I have an Octavia Mk1 1.9 Tdi ALH. Recently the car started going into limp mode at higher revs or under heavy load conditions.
All is good cruising with minimal throttle input but as soon as you floor it and the car reaches revs of 1900+ suddenly there is no boost.
I scanned the car using vcds and these are the codes the car is throwing;
Sunday, 05 September 2021, 14:17:07
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 HA
Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 0400SG 4922
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 12345
Additional Info: TMBCGG1U75A031136 SKZ7Z0E2928713
6 Faults Found:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-00 - -
17954 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Short to Plus
P1546 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground
P1549 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster
P1654 - 35-00 - -
18065 - A/C System Input/Output Short to B+
P1657 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17946 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109): Open or Short to Ground
P1538 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
---------------------------------------------------------------------------Now, I swapped the N75 and the EGR (N18 I guess), no change.....but cycling the the key (off and on quickly) used to restore the car to normal for a few moments.
Checked for vacuum leaks and found the pipe going to the brake booster had cracked (pic attached for you reference).
Changed the pipe and still the same issue persists. But while fiddling around with the N75, it felt like the solenoid was not getting enough voltage (kind of like a vibrating relay).
So, checked the supply at the connector which goes to the N75. now since I didn't have a Multimeter at hand used a test lamp....and the test lamp was flickering.
So I thought it must be a bad ground somewhere, and took the positive supply form the N75 connector and negative from a good ground point on the engine.
The test lamp was nice and bright without flicker in this case, so provided a good ground to the N75 connector and connected it to the N75. Now, the car runs as it should but the CEL is still popping up and VCDS is throwing these codes;
Sunday, 05 September 2021, 17:07:45
VAG-COM Version: Release 409.1-US
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 HA
Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 0400SG 4922
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 12345
Additional Info: TMBCGG1U75A031136 SKZ7Z0E2928713
4 Faults Found:
18062 - Please check DTC Memory of Instrument Cluster
P1654 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17946 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109): Open or Short to Ground
P1538 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-00 - -
17957 - Boost Pressure Regulation Valve (N75): Open or Short to Ground
P1549 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also since I thought the ECM was not getting a good ground I cleaned up the ground points below the battery, and the one near the ECM.
Any ideas as to what might be wrong? Also, will providing a ground to N75 connector harm the ECM?
Thanks.
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5 hours ago, guss84 said:
On my 2002 octavia vrs have noticed when car is switched off and locked the time, mileage and trip are constantly on and causing a drain on the battery. I'm guessing should go off and if so what is the likely cause of this? Is it dials or something like an ignition switch? Any help appreciated
I have a 1.9 Tdi ALH and even the clock and trip+odo in mine stays on after removing the key...I guess that's how it is and I never faced any battery drain issues, even after letting the car sit for 4-5 days without starting....your battery drain must be caused by something else....
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On 29/04/2021 at 16:50, Octyvrs03 said:
This one for me runs the central locking (but not for the boot) plus the mirror motors and heating element.
Thanks buddy...will check that one and let you know
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6 hours ago, BenC94 said:
Hi Guys,
so I may or may not have been watching car throttle last night, the one where he buys the high mileage mk1 octavia.
He successfully ran the the car on waste veg oil.
it got me thinking. I used to many moons ago have an Isuzu Trooper 3.1 which i could run on vegetable oil and wondering if my 2002 1.9Sdi octavia would be capable of the same, obviously i know there is issues with fuel filters clogging quicker and the viscosity of the oil being different to diesel but can it be done?
i did run a search in this forum but couldn't see any results.
CheersThe octy they use in CT videos is a 1.9 Tdi ......which has a bosch pump if I'm not wrong......so it works with used vegetable oil.....
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10 minutes ago, Ttaskmaster said:
Power window works fine.
Puddle light microswitch was replaced with a new one.
Even the connectors to the boot mechanism showed good continuity.
does the puddle lamp work in drivers door? Also when you pen the drivers door, the door open lamp comes on in the cluster?
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On 14/08/2017 at 17:13, Ttaskmaster said:
Now, while fiddling with stuff and looking at other things that don't work - namely the driver's door 'puddle' light and "headlights on" warning sound
I had tried this when my central locking for boot wasn't working......try swapping the control module in the driver's door for a known working one.....from what I figure it is the one responsible to signal the CCM ( situated in the dash ) to open/close the actuator in the boot at the press of the key.....if your drivers door puddle is not working chances are your boot central locking will also not work.....btw does your power window on the driver's side work?
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I'm curious....did you install the electrically adjustable wing mirrors as well?
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28 minutes ago, DeanVRS20VT said:
Door card off and bottom a pillar and disconnect it all and check it that way.
I thought the connector there only consists of a main 12v, ground, the speaker wires, 2 canbus wires, the black/red +ve for the puddle lamp plus a yellow/red wire which goes into the big connector of the door module....do any of these wires go directly to the mirror assembly?
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28 minutes ago, DeanVRS20VT said:
Wouldn’t presume the wiring is ok or the connecting window regulator as it acts as a hub. So you could have a break in the wire or a snapped/rusted pin on the regulator. You need to check the whole loom which includes pealing back the tape.
Do the mirrors have a fuse which I might be missing?
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23 minutes ago, DeanVRS20VT said:
Wouldn’t presume the wiring is ok or the connecting window regulator as it acts as a hub. So you could have a break in the wire or a snapped/rusted pin on the regulator. You need to check the whole loom which includes pealing back the tape.
So where exactly do I need to check the wiring? I've checked for continuity from the connector at the mirror till the big connector which connects to the door module ( the big electronics box which connects to the window motor) and yes...the pins are not corroded in that connector...as I connected the multimeter's probe to the pin to check the continuity .
Neither are the pins in the module itself corroded... -
Hi all....
I'm facing a strange problem in my Skoda Octavia Mk1 1.9 Tdi ALH (1U)My central locking, front door power windows, electric mirrors all were not working previously due to damaged door modules....
I replaced the front door modules and now I have central locking in all doors, all the power windows work excluding the rear right one as I am still unable to find that particular module, but yes....the remaining three are functional from their respective switches as well as the driver's side switch.
The lock/ unlock button works on the drivers side panel.....but for some reason unknown, the mirror adjustment doesn't work....
I tried supplying 12v directly to the mirror motors and found out that the left one has gone kaput but the right one works......also the glass on the right mirror is of a local make hence it does not have the heating element.....but the glass on the left has 2 terminals attached to it....
I've tried swapping the adjustment switch incase it was a faulty one but to no avail......the mirror on the right won't work...I know for a fact that the switches I have are good and in proper working condition because I can see it's position (X+,Y+, etc) in vag-com measuring blocks.....The wiring form the connector to the mirror has continuity till the big connector to the module..so I presume the wiring is ok.
Also attaching a AutoScan for your reference if that will help
Can anyone guide me in the right direction to resolve this issue?-
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9 hours ago, mac11irl said:
yup and my wife now has one parked outside our house... where i swore would never be
(Seat Arona so very similar to this Kushaq but a bit shorter)
in your opinion srane, will it be popular among those who can afford it in its target bracket?
I think it'll be more or less a status symbol.....a premium brand has launched something...so even if the product is not at par with it's competition in the market I'll buy it just because I can.....and show people that I have the money to buy it.....and because I bought a very expensive toy.... I'm far more superior than you.... especially on the roads....this will be the mentality of most people who buy the Kushaq....but these are just my 2 cents....
Driving on Indian roads is totally a different thing....its not just about how good you are as a driver or a person...... it's everything else.... What car you own has a big say in your road presence....
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It is basically being marketed as a compact SUV right now and being launched to rival 2 of the biggest players in this segment which are the Hyundai Creta and Kia Seltos (Both from the same parent company apparently).
A compact SUV actually is actually just a bigger hatchback IMO.
Marketed as a SUV but you shouldn't take it off-roading
This is just the prototype version though....the actual production car won't be having any major changes AFAIK.
Engine options are very limited; the 1.0 lit and 1.5 lit are the only 2 options being offered and that too in petrol (Gasoline).....this won't sit too well with Indian consumers as we are very well addicted to our diesel powertrains (till BS-V Emission norms kicked in we had diesel engines in small hatchbacks with displacement as low as 793 cc) due to the rising costs of fuels.....As it is, Skoda is considered as a premium brand in India so the Kushaq will be priced accordingly. Only time will tell if the sales figures will be anywhere near the Hyundai Creta or the Kia Seltos both starting priced at approx. 10 Lakh INR (13,705 USD or 10,045 Pound sterling)
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Hello everyone.......
I have a 2005 Skoda Octavia mk1 1.9 Tdi ALH
I have the Rider variant of the car which Afaik never came with ABS in India.
Every time I scan my car using VCDS-Lite, I get a fault code regarding the ABS...but the fault is not there in ABS (03-ABS Brakes)
The fault code is present in Engine (01-Engine)
Any help/input please?
Attaching the Scan for your ref.
Thursday, 28 January 2021, 17:21:29.
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Control Module Part Number: 038 906 012 HA
Component and/or Version: 1,9l R4 EDC 0000SG 4922
Software Coding: 00002
Work Shop Code: WSC 12345
VCID: 56DF055BA11F
Additional Info: TMBCGG1U75A031136 SKZ7Z0E2928713
1 Fault Found:
18057 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
P1649 - 35-00 - - -
Looks like you're also missing the Oil level sensor on the sump.
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1 hour ago, Burhan said:
Update on my coolant leakage:
Since I fixed the fuse "2nd Stage fan speed", I did not experienced engine overheating since then but a while ago I replaced coolant (filled to the mouth) and have noticed decrease in coolant level. The level only decreases till the half way of expansion tank (Near the central seam). Level doesn't decrease beyond that.
Any particular reason for this to happen?
The coolant level should be between the max and min marks on the expansion tank...... I guess since you had filled more than that...the system might've overflowed and the level must've decreased. I'm just taking a shot in the dark....so idk if I'm right or wrong about this.
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6 hours ago, Westbury63 said:
Skoda used to be the butt of many jokes in the UK, but the Favorit/Felicia and more so the Mk1 Octi were the cars to change all that for good. Theses days they are a repsected brand, but without the snob value.
We have lots of cheap parts for the cars as they get older. A thriving aftermarket too.
Thanks for your replies. It is interesting to learn about running a Skoda in a different market.
My Octy is 15 years old now.....and still I get such looks from people that if I'm driving a Skoda then I must be rolling in cash 😂😂😂
Btw here's a pic of my Octy...just after a wash and thorough polishing session.😎😎✌️✌️
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5 minutes ago, Westbury63 said:
I wonder why they changed it?
Did the MK1 sell when in India? Are there many still on the road?
Sadly, in the UK, the mk1 is becoming a fairly rare sight these days. I miss my MK1, had it for 12 yrs! Best car I have ever owned.
Not a very rare sight ..you can see many of them on roads even today....but high cost of spares and skoda being considered as a luxury brand resulting in high labour costs even locally are the main reasons why people tend to stay away from the octy....being a DIY guy helps in these situations.... atleast your labour costs are saved...but you can't expect everyone to have all the tools required for the vehicle...as most cars in India have standard bolts, screws.....The German cars here are famous for the torx bolts.... Many mechs here don't have the proper tools...and you can't expect them to have special tools for a single car. Similarly, the American cars are famous for Allen bolts. My toolbox has been updated over the years by me working on my own vehicles.... buying one tool at a time as and when required...so I do most of the stuff myself.
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22 minutes ago, Westbury63 said:
That is very strange. ALL manufacturers in the UK have an active spares department. It makes them money.
I see from the boodmo.com that the 2004-2008 Skoda Ocatavia is listed as the Skoda Laura. Unusual.
The mk1 octy in India was called the Octavia and the mk2 was Laura
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2 hours ago, Westbury63 said:
Dont worry, our Skoda dealers have worked out how to charge a lot too! Nice showrooms and free coffee is paid for dearly. Places to avoid once the car is out of warranty.
Weirdly though, it can be worth calling them for parts as they are not always any more than aftermarket.
The main issue here is Skoda refuses the sale of spares over the counter AFAIK. They insist you to get your car's work done in the ASC if you want OEM spares... 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
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3 minutes ago, Westbury63 said:
$250 sounds more reasonable. I was wondering, do you have Indian companies that make pattern parts for Skoda, or are they all import? Are they taxed heavily?
$4.169 gallon! If you could send some over here!!
We pay $7.20. Ouch.
Cool bike ride. I've seen some videos on Youtube of Enfields in Indian mountains, looks very perilous. I take my hat off to you Sir!
Sadly there are no local manufacturers for skoda parts AFAIK.....so even for aftermarket spares we have to rely on import.....if $4.169 a gallon sounds pretty....it was $3.89 a year back.
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1 hour ago, Burhan said:
I know 36,000 INR is a lot thats why I asked independent mechanics to send me a quote as well. Expecting a quote around 15-20K INR ($250 - $300) max.
A litre cost around 81.07 INR per litre (Approx. $4.169 per gallon)
Škoda is more noticeable in my city because of a trend else Skoda only has a market share of 5% throughout India.
In the past I owned RE 500 (Thunderbird). Its a good bike, I completed a Ladakh tour (Including the highest motor able road at altitude +18,000 ft) with that bike.
36k is an absolutely ridiculous quote.....I changed the TB kit, Water Pump and the HG for around 17k INR which includes other consumables as well (engine oil, coolant,etc) and excludes labour cost as I did all this myself....IMO you should be able to get it done within 20K if you're gonna use genuine spares and not aftermarket ones.....I would recommend that you look for an aftermarket waterpump with metal impeller as the OEM VAG one has plastic impeller which is prone to failure.
Labour costs should be in the 3-4k range for this max. any competent mech can handle this job provided he knows what he's doing....btw if you want I can guide you step by step for the timing procedure.
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Sounds more like a Crankshaft Pos. Sensor fault rather than a ECU fault....Might be intermittent hence when you cleared the code the car was running ok.
"Door Open" dash indicator
in Skoda Octavia Mk I (1996-2004)
Posted
Did you find a solution for this? I have a 1.9 Tdi Alh Rider variant with similar setup as yours (All windows electric, electric mirrors, no sunroof), I have swapped the cluster to the L&K one with he maxidot display in the center and it always shows that my bonnet is open. Now AFAIK my variant never came with a bonnet switch and it's triggering my OCD to constantly see my dash telling me that the bonnet is open when its not.