AlexTud

Mine required 400ml oil top up in 800 miles as soon as I've refitted the PCV (brand new revised part+seal). It didn't need a single drop before that while it had the PCV delete kit on for 2k miles. I would suggest deleting the PCV as it eliminates your oil consumption, carbon build up, etc. Just got a new PCV delete kit from Forge which is going on it this Saturday along with their blowoff+DV kit (vacuum operated). It will be interesting to see what I find when I take mine apart - it has a 30k miles engine in it.

I got all the seals I need from TPS - original VAG parts. I would suggest you get the seal for the throttle body as well and replace it - give the TB a clean as well while you're at it. You will need someone that has a trading account though, as TPS don't deal with private customers. Or you could call a dealership I guess but will end up paying a bit more. Kind of the same issue on my car, but I caught it early as I've noticed a different engine sound (light metallic knocking sound). My mechanic said it's most likely an injector after listening to it, so I've sent a set out (from a different engine) to R Tech to get them cleaned, tested and resealed the other day - hoping they'll be back early next week (£120/set of 4 + shipping back and forth). My concern was that the radial balancing elements might break when I take the injectors out - this is more than likely if you have the plastic version - so I ordered new ones. Could not find them anywhere apart from TPS (apart from eBay being delivered from China (?!) in about 3 weeks). These only come as part of a complete injector seal set (balancing element, Teflon gasket ring, supporting washer, rubber O-ring and the metal supporting ring) which was about £18.00 for each set/injector from TPS. The good thing is that the balancing elements I received are a revised version and are metallic - not that I'd be looking forward to do this again anytime soon. About the job itself - I've gone through the workshop manual and quite a few tutorials online - I am not a skilled mechanic I must admit - and there are a few things you need to be careful with. I found a very useful video on YouTube (see below and pay attention to disconnecting the fuel pump pipe!) and a lot of details in the workshop manual - specific torque for each screw, nut, bolt, etc. You should take your time doing this and make sure you have everything you need ready to one side. Also, I would not recommend that you leave the car with the IM off for days, this is why I did not send my own injectors out. Condensation can creep up and cause more harm in the future (mechanic's very strong advice). The original manufacturer injectors (which are Bosch) are around £180 each from TPS (not even sure if that was VAT included) so I've gone with the cost saving measure which saved me £600 more or less. Engine oil + filter MUST be replaced, especially if the injector was stuck open as it would have heavily contaminated your oil - this will change the oil's properties and other issues can arise, especially if you're giddy on the loud pedal at times. Again, my car did not show any symptoms at all (full power, no misfire, etc) apart from the slightly different engine noise but I can smell petrol in the oil on the dipstick even though there's no noticeable level increase. Hope I was able to help and I'll come back to you guys once I've sorted mine out - booked it in for next Saturday on the 18th.

Evening guys, hoping I'll still get a reply for this as it's an old thread. Does the RFD delete require any software altering at all or is it pure mechanics? I'm sending my injectors out to be refurbished so I thought I might as well do the RFD delete considering I'm taking it apart. Cheers 🙂

Sorry for dropping off the face of the earth for a while guys. 😋 Life's been nuts lately. @MicMac I suppose you had the nearest suggestion looking at the replies. PM me your details and we'll get it sorted - I always keep my word. Thank you all for getting involved and trying to help, I really appreciate it. 😉

Evening guys, Had to postpone the work on the car for quite a while but I finally managed to get it in the shop and get it sorted, so I thought I'd share the solution here. The cause was the blow off valve, which has been removed. It caused the DV to malfunction somehow by taking air back in. As the MAP sensor had a different reading the electronics were wobbling the air/fuel mix causing the idle speed issue. The mechanic realised it as he timed the clicking sound of the DV opening/closing with the issue (variation in idle speed). Prior to that we've refitted the PCV (new revised part+new seal) with the issue still occuring after. When he disconnected the MAP the issue disappeared but he kept looking for the cause as the MAP had been replaced previously. A bit of work but at least not very expensive. One piece of advice - opt for the top rated aftermarket manufacturers for tuning parts. One thing to clear - the DV that failed a few days after fitting was not Forge, but the latest VAG revision of it. Thank you guys for getting involved and offering suggestions.

@Tech1e any suggestions or "go to" gurus on this one by any chance? Willing to duplicate that beer crate order for pointing me in the right direction! 😂😋 reposted this bit as I misspelled your username 🤪 Quote

Wow! Quite a split in that pic and would defo feel it on fingertips. Also have an inspection camera available as a back up so you really got my attention now! 😁 Absolutely worth looking into! Hopefully my mechanic can look into it on Sunday when I'll be detailing his own car (which is one of my skills) as he's putting it up for sale. Will defo come back with an outcome and hopefully a beer order! 😁

Haven't done that, so will give it a try on my next visit and make sure everything looks fine. Saying that though, with it being likely caused by exposure to prolonged heat, it might not even be visible. Would this be likely to cause this behaviour as it probably makes sense with the lack of faults being recorded?

https://youtu.be/wtgippnFE6c Youtube link as mentioned before portraing the issue live.

Might be the case as my mechanic said it might be related to vacuum, ignition (R8 coil pack going in on my next visit) air/fuel mixture (as a result of the remap), carbon build up on accelerator flap or intake manifold (even though it's unlikely on a 28k miles engine). Already replaced MAF (which was off the original engine) with the donor engine's MAF after careful inspection to be on the safe side despite no signs of oil on it, etc. When the DV issue happened the tester did come up with "air/fuel mix too lean" type of error (have a printscreen with all errors noted at the time which is lost in my 367477484 pics). What is weird is that there are no faults recorded, even though you would think that sensors are battling to get the idle speed settled as it goes up and down a couple if times before it stabilises around 750rpm. @Tch1e any suggestions or "go to" gurus on this one by any chance? Willing to duplicate that beer crate order for pointing me in the right direction! 😂😋

Wouldn't this cause a constant fault though as opposed to an intermittent one?

Hi all, coming back to you with a puzzle hoping I can benefit from your knowledge as seasoned owners. My car is a 1Z 56 reg BWA ENGINE 2.0L TFSI. I have an intermittent issue which is driving me (and my mechanic) nuts. Sometimes, when the engine is properly warmed up, say after 20-30 min of driving my idle speed fluctuates before it settles to around 750RPM. This happens when I put the car in neutral (i.e. approaching a traffic light, junction, moving in slow traffic). On 1 out of say 5 occasions it will shut the engine as it goes below 500rpm, especially when moving in slow traffic slightly uphill (this seems to make is worse). Just discovered tonight that once the issue occurs it does it even when parked up if I rev it to 2500-3000rpm and then let go. Youtube video link to follow shortly.. No EML, no faults recorded by the ECU which makes it more difficult. A bit of background on the car itself for context: Bought as spares or repairs with 82k on the clock, replaced with a 28k miles engine and gearbox off a donor car. It had a new Forge DV + blowoff which failed within a week (read mechanical fail on tester but no split, just actuator fault) so put the original one back in but left the blowoff aliminium part in. I also found that the intercooler hose was loose at the time so tightened it up. Put new NGK iridium spark plugs in When the engine was replaced it had a new original timing kit put in, all new filters (original manufacturer fuel, oil, air, etc), high pressure fuel pump cover, gearbox oil, Millers engine oil, PCV deleted. I also suspect that the car had a stage 1 remap as on live readings (engine running) torque was 399NM and turbo boost was 1.28BAR, alongside the fact that it does not seem to have a rev limiter. Any suggestions are more than welcome guys before I sink my following wages into this without solving the issue. Promise I'll send a crate of beer over to whoever pinpoints the fault! 😁

That's great! Still need to run the car for a while to make sure all is fine. How do we get in touch to book it for a day in January if possible? With Xmas preps and long days in work it would be hard for me to make it in December.😁

That's reasonable distance in my book - been looking for an excuse to take the car out on a longer trip than my 25 miles commute to work. It is currently in the shop and having some work done to it as the Forge DV seems to have failed (within 1 week of fitting) but it seems that quite a few other owners had issues with this part. What parts would I need to have with me (order) in that case and any price estimate for the work please? 🙂

I'm looking to get cruise retrofitted as well on a 56 plate VRS 2.0 TFSI 1Z model. I live in Greater Manchester, any of you guys remotely close (saying that I'd travel quite a disctance to get it done) willing to help out? And how much would it cost if possible? Not worried about the steering wheel as it's already tilted to the left - not had the time to get the tracking done after restauration. 😋

Slight update guys: Managed to get the workshop manual off this forum - seems that the mechanic had no clue what he was talking about. There are only 3 wires connected to the 4 pins plug - 2 different wiring methods depending if the car has a rain sensor (mine doesn't). However mine is not wired as neither of the 2 shown on the diagram. I though it might be wort to swap the wires as per diagram (think there's a risk of messing something up like Body Control Module?!). Could not find clear, detailed and precise info in another manual but looked up wiper motors on Ebay and found one for Octavia 1z - has the plug connected to the motor in the picture and it is wired exactly as mine. Only other option is taking it to a specialist VAG electrical service garage - worried about the final invoice though. :P

Hi guys, new around here and looking for a bit of help. I purchased the above mk2 Octavia VRS 1Z and replaced the engine on it. All good apart from the front wiper motor not working. Tested motor on bench and all fine, even tried 2 other motors on the car - still no luck. Had a mechanic look at it and he said this: Motor has 4 pins (correct part), socket has 4 pins but only 3 wires going into the socket (missing 1 signal wire). He says someone's messed about with the wiring loom at some point. Bought this as spares or repairs looking to do a full engine rebuild but ended up putting a 28k miles engine and gearbox in it for a good deal. Mechanic said to find a 3 pin VW wiper motor and this should fix it? Any ideas as to what VW group car would have that - cannot find out to save my own life! Thanks in advance for getting involved.