gigolo456
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Posts posted by gigolo456
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25 minutes ago, FireBIade said:
Doesn't sound right, do you know what rpm it got to?
Each time, it only got to around 2.5k, but happened about 10 times in about 45 minutes, so each time the brake was on at a junction, or traffic lights etc, and then when I parked up on my drive at home..
Ps. I have digital cockpit, but I could feel/hear the car physically revving each time..
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Apologies, it's a 1.5l petrol, and just concerning that it's only 3 months old..
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Hi Folks, hope we're all enjoying the fine weather!? Probably something and nothing but today my 3 month old Karoq SE L had a mind of its own with revving!
When I've stopped, brake kicks in, so stationary, or when I've engaged P, the car just started revving all by itself! Happened quite a few times today, so a tad worried..
Is this perhaps just one of the Karoq's little quirks?? 😳
Many thanks
Andrew
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16 minutes ago, Kenni said:
I had an issue with hard rattling sound when going over rough roads or bumps from area of boot lid, on removal of trim to route cable for rear dash cam, I noticed that wiring and rear wash tubing was loose and the hard plastic connector on the tubing was able to rattle against the tailgate, so I placed a piece of sponge to hold the tubing from moving, that fixed the noise, worth a look to take the tailgate trim off and have a look.
Kenny
Cheers, certainly another avenue to go down if adjusting the stoppers doesn't work! Hopefully my Skoda techy acquaintance can have a look over the Easter weekend!
I'm determined to have the issue resolved, watch this space!!
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3 hours ago, Scot5 said:
Would have thought the OP would have required to order them as an accessory ( a lot more than £130 ) as 18" unlikely to be an option when his car came with 19" as std. As he said, the test drive was on a car with 18". Skoda have changed the specs since OP purchased his car, 18" is std, there's a different design of 18" offered for £130 and it's £450 extra if you want the OP's £450 19". When the 19" on SE-L was first rumoured on here, I questioned it. Couldn't believe it when SE-L came with 19" Crator as std. Other than having an over supply of 19" Crator or the supply of 18's dried up, it was just a crazy, crazy decision IMO to offer the SE-L with same alloys as Edition. Wonder how many Edition sales they lost as a result? The OP is unusual in that he was concenred about ride quality whilst Joe Public tend to be more concerned about aesthetics. ( Joe Public UK I might add - other markets are less image concious than us ).
If comfort was a priority I have to say that if I knew the car I ordered was coming with 225/40/19 then I would have cancelled / changed the order. The 19" tyres on my car came over-inflated for my use - it was if they were still in 'transport' mode. Setting them to the correct pressure helped. Has OP checked pressures? It certainly reduced road noise but comfort is always going to be an issue on such low-profile tyres.
But what struck me about vegit8's response is someone needs to ask why a manufacturer supplies cars with large rims? I'd have thought the answer pretty obvious (pun intended.) I have to laugh at the response tho, larger rims give better fuel consumption? How can heavier alloys and heavier tyres improve mpg? That'll be why all 'economy' orientated cars come with 22" alloys - to save fuel.
Hi, yes, checked tyre pressures and all spot on actually! In an effort to 'soften' the ride, I reduced the pressure in all 4 tyres, although not entirely sure that was wise lol!?
The whole process was in hindsight a bit rushed, not helped of course by covid! I'd pretty much decided even before the test-drives that I was going to buy new, but one already I stock! Well, it was one actually en route to the UK I believe..
It was only after said test-drives that I learnt the car would be coming with 19s, so was hoping upon hope that the ride quality would be similar to 18s!?
My p/x Golf R was losing money fast, not to mention the service that was due, AND brakes replacing AND 2 new tyres within a couple of months, so time was of the essence so to speak..
Still have boot area rattle, but hoping my Skoda techie mate can resolve once we can start meeting up again..
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18 minutes ago, VRT24 said:
Did you do the adjustments and was it sucessful?
Alas no lol, as in even attempting it yet I mean! After reading some of the comments about needing a couple of pairs of hands, I've decided to wait until the law permits and I can get my Skoda mechanic mate to give me a hand..
That said, even he has said it's a simple job to do, but I have this knack of unwittingly making things worse when I start trying to fix things with my hands lol!!
To be fair, still only driven 310 miles since new on 5th January!! What really confuses me is that for the first few days at least, this rattle was non-existent!! Every time I've been out since, it rears it's ugly head!
Yes, I've tried putting some tape on things, silly me, and perhaps I've misaligned something when doing so!?
Hope upon hope that adjusting the boot stops eventually will work!!
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5 minutes ago, langers2k said:
It's the current driving mode.
Cogs mean individual
Lol, cheers!! I'll walk away quietly...
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Good evening All, probably something and nothing but does anyone know plse what that symbol in the pic means? I can only think it resembles 2 cogs of a wheel (1 smaller than other)! I've scoured tinterweb but nowt coming up..
As I said, probably nothing but thought I'd check with you wise folk first..
Cheers
Andrew
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3 minutes ago, kenfowler3966 said:
Pull it out slightly to clear, move the rubber mount by one tooth and then tighten again. The stew locks it in the new position
Cheers, when you say move the mount by one tooth, will I know what you mean once I finally get round to doing it lol?? I'm assuming that as it's one tooth, it's easy to adjust both sides the same amount?
Apologies for being hopeless at what is probably very straight forward for most people..
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3 minutes ago, kenfowler3966 said:
You can use 16” 6j wheels with winter tyres and get more choice.
That’s what I have on at the moment and on their 3rd winter as aI bought for previous Yeti.I paid £50 per wheel for steel rims plus choice of tyre at different costs depending on make.
Also means alloys are protected from salty road use.
May I ask plse what size wheels came with the car, ie what you use (I'm assuming) most of the year?
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6 hours ago, FlyingGecko said:
Adjustment is really critical, and watch for the lock catch getting too tight.
Cheers, will do my best!! Coincidentally, spoke to Skoda technician earlier, a mate from my golf club, and he's advised when I do adjust that screw in the boot stops that I loosen it, and then actually pull OUT towards me, then re-tighten!
I was under the impression that when I loosened said screw, I was actually moving the stopper vertically down so to speak!!
Surely if I'm pulling it out towards me and then re-tighten, it will simply go back to exactly where it was lol??
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4 hours ago, Sanqhar said:
That's the way it looks to me.
You'll need a Torx bit, not an Allen key.
tom
Cheers! Will try and adjust sometime this week when I can pluck up the courage lol!!
At least I know now (hopefully) how to potentially resolve it!!
I'm working off the premise that I'll need to lengthen the boot stops..
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21 minutes ago, Berisford said:
Making heavy weather of this guys........just pull the cover off with your fingers from the top and adjust as required......
Cheers, thank you! I'm assuming then that once the screw is loosened, you simply need to pull the rubber stopper down/up as required, and then pop the cover back on?
Thanks again..
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2 hours ago, Sanqhar said:
I have looked and searched but so far have not seen how to adjust them.
tom
Cheers, yes, just spotted these, thank you! Clearly I was performing a bloke's search up until now lol!!
As you say though, goodness knows how they can be adjusted, if at all!? Perhaps it just needs a bit of pressure with a screwdriver for instance to invoke a bit of movement!?
I'll have a further look online, as surely these can be adjusted...!!
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On 25/01/2021 at 14:58, VRT24 said:
Its possible that the tailgate latching mechanism isn't keeping the tailgate as tight up against the body in its closed position as it should, and therefore moves slightly when going over bumps/holes etc.. The way I discovered that (on another car) was to sit in the back seat with a short broomhandle and, as the wife drove over bumps, I applied pressure to the tailgate with the broom as if trying to push it open from the inside. Loh and behold no rattles - that showed to me that the locking catch mechanism needed adjusting. It may be worth you trying this to eliminate that possible source of rattling - just don't let the neighbours see you being driven around by the wife with you in the back seat manhandling a broom!!
Well Well well!! As I've mentioned already now in this thread, dealer found nothing! I took your advice and had my good lady drive earlier, with me and the brush in the back lol!! I first of all pressed the brush handle half way up the tailgate, but noise still audible!
Last resort was to press the butt of the handle HARD against the intersection of the boot floor and the actual tailgate, ie directly below the rubber pull-down handle, so just between plastic boot floor lip and the tailgate!! Low and behold, NOISE COMPLETELY VANISHED!!!! Deliberately drove over my usual test route that provokes said rattle btw...
Having OCD to one side, what on earth does this mean can be adjusted!? Yes, I've established now what stops it, but how can I now potentially adjust something to cure this?? I could always just pay some random to sit in the back and jab that area with my yard brush, but me thinks id be arrested eventually for having an offensive weapon in my possession lol!!!
Andrew
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3 hours ago, DSL said:
My entry level SE comes with 17”ers as standard but I come for a long(ish) history of fitting the smallest wheels to cars that normally have larger/blingier rims. For me ride comfort trumps the ability to throw the car round bends at high speed.
I quite agree!! Im going through a phase where I want to have a midsized SUV and drive in comfort! Being a golfer, I often drive off the beaten track so to speak, and the test-drive on18s surpassed expectations! I'm just a bit surprised how noticeably different the ride now is on 19s!!
I'll stick it out I'm sure, and come time of tyre renewal, I will 'consider ' spending the extra for new rims also..
First hurdle though is solving the puzzle of boot/tailgate noise..
At least my wipers (touch wood) are very good thus far lol!!!
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57 minutes ago, DSL said:
You could downgrade to 17” wheels. Not a lot of Karoq 17s out there but plenty of Yeti rims that would fit the bill nicely. I know it’s an expense but cheaper in the long run than getting really annoyed and chopping the car early. I’m on 17s and find the ride perfect.
Interesting suggestion, thank you! Have you moved to 17s by choice, or did your trim actually come with those wheels?
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Hi All, bit of an update! Dealer had my car for an hour or so, and could find no noise as I described! Am I surprised they found nothing, NO lol!!
To be fair I can hear it, even still, but my rattle-detector has always been very sensitive!!
Until if and well i can establish that you can actually adjust the tailgate in whatever form, I'm left to just turn the volume up on radio/music!!
I will add though IMHO that overall the ride quality is not that much better than my last car, a Golf R, and that is essentially why I changed in the 1st place! I've only myself to blame though, as my test-drive was in an SE L with 18s (now 19s), but I decided to buy new lol! Just hoping perhaps that once I have a couple of thousand miles in it, that perhaps things 'smoothen out, but not holding my breath! I was that impressed by test-drive I should have just put an offer in on the spot, but was a year old and 5k in miles..
You live and learn, but bloody expensive misjudgement..
Andrew
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5 hours ago, Sanqhar said:
Have you found the bump stops I was referring to?
tom
Hi, tbh no, there are a couple of 'things ' down towards the boot floor, but can't see any sticky-out bump stops...
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1 hour ago, Gomezz said:
May be a bit obvious ! but have you checked that the Vario seats are fully engaged ? need a good slam to lock.
Just seen you said you had folded seats, sorry.
Yeap, checked that a few times now. You are right though, they do seem to need a firm push to lock fully!! I will triple check tomorrow though..
Definitely around tailgate, or beneath that section of the car..
As above, just trying to ascertain now if you can adjust any of the fixings/connectors on the tailgate working!?
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42 minutes ago, Sanqhar said:
Are the rubber bump stops between the body and the boot lid adjustable. The part on the tailgate looks adjustable although I don't know how.
tom
Can't even see any rubber stops, unless my eyes are fading!?
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53 minutes ago, VRT24 said:
Its possible that the tailgate latching mechanism isn't keeping the tailgate as tight up against the body in its closed position as it should, and therefore moves slightly when going over bumps/holes etc.. The way I discovered that (on another car) was to sit in the back seat with a short broomhandle and, as the wife drove over bumps, I applied pressure to the tailgate with the broom as if trying to push it open from the inside. Loh and behold no rattles - that showed to me that the locking catch mechanism needed adjusting. It may be worth you trying this to eliminate that possible source of rattling - just don't let the neighbours see you being driven around by the wife with you in the back seat manhandling a broom!!
Hi, must admit I LOL as I read your comments, so thanks for making me chuckle!! Tbh, id wear my pants on my head if I thought it would help the situation lol!!!
I must admit I did wrap the metal housing (on boot floor) earlier, lightly with thin padded sticky tape!! Could be placebo effect of course, but could have sworn the noise wasn't quite as audible!!
Thing is though, and goes back to a question above, can one actually adjust any of the tailgate connectors/connections?
Cheers
Andrew
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14 hours ago, VRT24 said:
Tailgate? Seen reference on a forum about wiring loom going in/out being loose and generating a knocking sound.
Hi, I do think it's the tailgate alright! My wife and I took turns this afternoon sitting in the back whilst the other drove! A big plus is that she actually agreed with me that there is a rattle lol, so it's not me going mad at least..
We're both pretty adamant that it sounds like something is loose, eg. a catch of some sort, or panel etc, so doesn't sound like loose wiring or the like! As I said above, only ever happens when going over rough surfaces, cracks, holes in road etc..
Is it actually possible to adjust the tailgate connectors in any way?
The only thing I haven't done is completely remove the whole polystyrene block that surrounds the spare wheel, but looks a bugger to remove lol, and everything 'seems ' secure enough anyway...
If it ain't either of the above, it must be underneath the car, and I ain't messing around with that..
Andrew
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37 minutes ago, Sanqhar said:It could just be the normal "thumpy' tyre suspension/combination. Check tyres and tyre pressures. Bridgestone Turanzas feel hard to me, they are not my favourite tyre.
tom
Yes, the 19" wheels probably don't help at all, and actually reduced pressures very slightly on Day 1, considering usually only me who is in the car lol!!
As someone else suggested, might sit in the back tomorrow as my wife drives, see if if I can at least pinpoint where its coming from!?
New SE L boot rattle
in Skoda Karoq
Posted
Hi, apologies for not updating this post since, life got in the way and all that! My mate did adjust the level of the stoppers by a full 2 'levels '! There is probably a technical term for these movements but I'll stick with 'levels ' lol!!
Ok, so I started driving off, 1st thing I notice is that warning light in the dash comes on, indicating that the boot isn't closed properly!! Thought oh ffs, what have I done, well my techie mate tbf!? I then close the boot harder, and dash light goes off, PHEW..!!
I then drove over usual patch of **** road, and yippee, rattle has completely gone!!
So yes, for my particular issue, adjusting the boot stoppers has worked! I always have to ensure though that the boot is FULLY closed after opening, ie apply a bit more muscle than usual, but nothing too extreme mind..!
I'm tempted to ask techie mate to adjust stoppers 1 level back, but not going to tempt fate!!