makemywish

Any thoughts on best location for 12 inch subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate P300-12) in an estate Octavia? Or is it a question of just changing around the location and firing angle till you hit the sweet spot (in relation to driver's listening position)

Thanks PetrolDave. Last night I ripped the CDs as lossless files on to my phone. Will try that. Also have an external CD drive powered by USB. Will give it a whirl as well.

Since my Skoda doesn't have a CD drive, there is no way to use the Audison supplied CD to calibrate and de-eq the Bit 10. Anyone have any experience doing this?

For the speakers -- Hertz MPK 165.3 PRO. Good speakers. Waiting for the right weather to install the Audison DSP as the EQ on the headhunt is really terrible. Messing with the lower to mid-lower frequencies. I think the audison DSP+Amp option is pretty good, saves you the hassle of adding a DSP, but compared to the Hertz HCP 4D underpowered.

Thanks. How do you turn off the dsp?

Thank you very much @langers2k Looks like the Bit Ten has a few options for powering up, including auto turn on based on speaker input. The Hertz amp already has auto turn on based on Front speaker inputs. So looks like it is a question of hooking it all up and see how it goes.

It is the Audison Bit Ten. These are the screenshots of the relevant pages from the manual. Also attached is image of the amp and the inputs going into it. Keen observers would notice I am using the rear speakers as sub as the low end is so boomy. So, after a bit of tweaking around I figured the best option without a DSP is to use the front speakers as mid+high range and the rear speakers as sub. That is giving me a decent flat sound at the expense of loss of overall sound level. I am just after a flat sound profile.

I recently upgraded the stereo on my octavia III FL. If you do go down the route of upgrading there are two options a) just change the speakers but do deaden the sound doors. b) if you do add an aftermarket amplifier do make sure you have one with a DSP to flatten the head unit's unique EQ. I made the mistake of just adding an Amp + speakers and realised the EQ on board the headhunt circuit transforms the sound quite a bit. The sound is not bad, but just doesn't do service to the excellent amp (Hertz HCP 4D) and speakers (Hertz Mille component speakers). The amp has very limited eq options and as a consequence I have had to do all sorts of contortions to get a reasonable sound out of the amp. I am now in the process of adding a DSP to fix the issue.

Need help with self installation of a DSP. I had a Hertz amp and speakers installed a couple of weeks ago and after discovering the problem with the EQed output of the factory stereo planned on having an Audison DSP Bit Ten installed. And the government announced the lockdown! So here I am. I have a Hertz HCP 4D installed in the boot of the car with high level inputs going into it and speaker outputs going out to speakers. I presume installing it in the rear will be alright. A few questions that I would be grateful if someone could provide guidance on: a) for power, do I install a distribution box and run power cables to amp and DSP (assuming I add another fuse between distribution box and dsp). b) then, is it a question of connecting the speaker outs from the headhunt into the DSP and RCA cables to AMP? The dsp came with this connector with helpful labels on the wires. I presume I can ignore the wires on the connector other than the battery and speaker in?

Need help with self installation of a DSP. I had a Hertz amp and speakers installed a couple of weeks ago and after discovering the problem with the EQed output of the factory stereo planned on having an Audison DSP Bit Ten installed. And the government announced the lockdown! So here I am. I have a Hertz HCP 4D installed in the boot of the car with high level inputs going into it and speaker outputs going out to speakers. I presume installing it in the rear will be alright. A few questions that I would be grateful if someone could provide guidance on: a) for power, do I install a distribution box and run power cables to amp and DSP (assuming I add another fuse between distribution box and dsp). b) then, is it a question of connecting the speaker outs from the headhunt into the DSP and RCA cables to AMP? The dsp came with this connector with helpful labels on the wires. I presume I can ignore the wires on the connector other than the battery and speaker in?

Thank you. I've now had the door panels treated and new speakers installed. With the boot and door panels, the cabin is much quieter. All the mid and range frequency noises are gone. My suggestion to anyone considering a new stereo is to just deaden the doors and boot (and if possible the floors) and replace the speakers. The difference is remarkable.

I believe you need to add Audison USS 4 between the head unit and the amp. I am installing the stereo on my amp and am facing the same issue. Have ordered the part and will let you know

Good idea. One big lesson for me here. First time car insulation But what brands are out there? I might apply the paint over the summer.

Nice! And that is a terrific job! What make is the spray on insulation? And how thick is the coat? As I was applying the deadening I was wondering if I should have just gotten rubberised paint and painted it on the panels. I now wonder if the insulation makes any difference other than absorb interior noise, which in a car environment makes for marginal gains. Or maybe because the car is such a noisy environment, the insulation helps take some of the edge off. IDK.

OK. So done with it. Apologies no pictures as it was tipping it and early darkness meant I had to work at breakneck speed. Finished at 9pm finally. Made some rookie mistakes such as not factoring in tolerances for the variable boot floor and the bottom trim, which I will rectify in the spring/summer. But seriously, the parts used in these cars are just really flimsy. So, lessons: a) this is a job for spring or summer when you have a lot of light or else if you have a spacious and well lit garage. b) make sure you mark out where the trims go and do not apply the treatment to those areas -- or at least do not apply the insulation. What people are most interested in knowing -- is it worth the effort? The noise from the rear is significanty reduced. Of course, there will be the low frequency noise that the tyres generate from certain tarmac that cannot be eliminated, but signifiant drop in the mid and higher frequency noise. The noise now comes from the front and middle section of the car, which I will taking care of next. But already the stock stereo sounds much better and this is despite all the boom coming from the car doors.