BristolBikerMan

I swear there used to be a lot more tech guys on this board. anyway, I managed to catch the engine misbehaving. I pulled the plug off the MAF in time and the revs smoothed out. I replaced the MAF yesterday with the hella part from GSF. Car has started perfectly since, and is noticeably more responsive. just need to get underneath and rip off the rattling heat shield and that should be it for a while.

Maybe, but has been like that through 2 MOTs.

https://youtu.be/XCM5Q2ShmqI

When I come off the throttle and coast I get a loud exhaust rattle, but seems to come from the turbo/downpipe.

Hey guys I have a long term start up problem on my 2.0TSI FL Mk2 Octavia. I'm suspecting a possible dodgy MAF, but would appreciate it if someone could help me check things over with VCDS if this is likely to tell me if it's a culprit, before I spend a fortune on a new MAF?

Anyone tried this hella MAF?

Not sure how to do that without VAGCOM. my mechanic said it may well be the MAF it does smell rich as hell sometimes when I start it, and occasionally get a bank 1 rich ecu code Anyone got a spare known good MAF before I spunk £100 on one?

All genuine parts

This has been an intermittant problem since I have owned the car (2 years). A few months into my ownership I: De-carboned the valves Replaced all injectors Replaced all coil packs Replaced PCV valve Replaced spark plugs. The problem has become more frequent in recent weeks, occurring previously once every couple of months, and now its a few times a week. I turn the ignition on, fire the engine up. It always starts first time. Once started, the revs drop and it feels very lumpy, almost like its running on 3 cylinders. It won't rev cleanly, but will rev roughly, again feels like a lack of cylinders but that is just speculation. It throws no fault codes at the moment, and hasn't for ages. But has occasionally thrown one about running lean - I think it is an air leak as nothing else is wrong. Very occasionally the car then stalls, and I have to restart it and rev it a bit. Driving it slowly causes it to kangaroo a bit up the road, but as soon as I've driven a minute or so, it drives smoothly and has full power. It happens from freezing cold and luke warm, has typically been a problem on very cold mornings. Given I have replaced all the obvious things, and it runs perfectly once warm... And throws no codes, I don't know where to start. But do suspect an air leak of some kind that warms up and seals itself.

Yeah no CEL light on but did see a bank 1 rich code. I've seen that from time to time. Most of the time the noise is not present, and it's likely the evap. I read a post by @TheClient who had a similar situation for many many miles. If it happens again I'll put a long bar against it and see if I can confirm. The car is starting and performing very very differently now, I'm pretty pleased to get it back on the road.

Yeah I'm aware of what ETKA is, however advice is subject to change, and the parts guy was using the official Skoda access to look up my VIN and quote from that. Whilst I agree there is a possibility that he could be wrong, I don't see this as a level of risk that I'm worried about. Whether there could be I'll effects is open as you say. But in my opinion, the fact they are not documented and out there on Google, and the amount of people who have replaced this valve, I'm comfortable with my decision.

Took the car up and down the motorway with my mate following close behind in his 135i. No blue smoke at all. A small puff of grey smoke going from coasting to full boost, such is normal. Hopefully I can close the book on this now. Going to monitor oil consumption. I found a lot of old oil in the old PCV valve in the exit to the rear pipe.

A few years ago I would've been worried about this kind of thing. But my rational brain says a few things. 1) Skoda won't take the part back, as far as they are concerned computer says no. He's checked and double checked, and the current advice is to supply this part, no matter what was previously stated. 2) I'm confident from reading on here, that shedloads of these part codes were supplied to people just like me, and I can't find any trace of any issues on Google of people fitting one or the other on a different year of car and having any issues. 3) If the car runs fine with the one that I have just fitted, that is the end of it for me. There are no codes, there are no running issues that I think are related to it. Call it horses for courses, but I'm going to stick with the part I've been given, have asked him to double check AND cannot return. I have given the car a good run, the exhaust is totally clear when revving it at idle once it warms up. I'm yet to get my friend to follow me and check for smoke under load. I have since noticed an intermittent ticking noise from around the gearbox side of the top end, around cylinders 3/4. It has done it twice so far, the first time it kicked in at idle, and went away after a drive. The second time it happened after a drive and pulling back up again. It's a ticking that seems in time with the engine, but has also accelerated in rhythm faster than the engine, even at idle. Here is a clip of when the ticking is present: I have just been back to the car to start it, and have started it twice and it didn't come back. Yet when I stop the car there are various solenoids that click, which I am sure it has always done. But the click is in a similar place and seems a similar noise (around the RHS of the IM. Here is a clip of the shut off noise:

After reading a few posts between @TheClient and @planehazza I rang Skoda just to be sure of my part number. For CCZA and my VIN they are adamant it is 06H 103 495AJ, apparently AH is for 2016 onwards cars with a different engine code. They must have supplied loads of these to people/garages like me, so I'm gonna go ahead and fit it.

By the way, PCV code is 06H 103 495AJ

It might be difficult to see, but this is the oil spill that came out of my boost pipe at the front where it goes up to the TB. Certainly not half a pint, but a significant spill all the same. This was the state of the IM/Injectors when I pulled them (you can clearly see the fuel spill in injector port 4, as opposed to just crud build up in the others): The inlet pipe to the turbo you asked about @TheClient (didn't see any value in pulling it, but from the airbox side it wasn't really oily). Video of how it runs when I started it up: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN07aCKVrPRLYBYZFW1PHEMPBslNX7cBGwhaR0eiV8OxnQHJV60Vi1uE-UkpTZblQ/photo/AF1QipMd2biN6TbMBM7D6ZafBd3DCln2yCBLzVzZKHU2?key=WE9FNFJWMFBUb3U3b2hHMkNzQzV3SDR4X3VzNEhn However, I'm yet to warm the engine up and drive it. Which I think will clear the grey smoke up. Got my new PCV at lunchtime, so will be installing that tonight.

My Dad's offside tailight cluster is damaged. I bought one for him off ebay, but it turned up broken. Does anyone know where I can source this part for him second hand?

Yeah the exterior of that pipe to the turbo is mucky but dryish. No leaks under the car. I've rebuilt Everything. Unfortunately 2 of the manifold bolts were already strippe and a third helicoiled, not my doing. I nipped the others up gradually to 8Nm. Everything looked good so fired it up, to realise I hadn't connected the FPR. A lot of whining and wouldn't rev. After connecting it and trying again, it idled and revved very well. A bit of white smoke but guess it will burn off, and calibrate. New PCV will go on tomorrow night, before a test drive with a friend following me to check for smoke. Then close monitoring of oil.

That obviously came across other than how it was intended. Input and opinions are welcome. My point really, was I am not in a position to take the head off at the moment, and have no appetite to spend the time or money. Given that there are obvious places where the oil could be coming in and onto the valves, other than those rings, I'm going to rebuild the car and measure the consumption.

TBH doesn't really matter if he thinks its the valves or not, I'm gonna rebuild it anyway and replace the PCV, then see what the oil consumption is like. The fact there is a lot of oil infront of the intake tells me it's not likely coming from the valves themselves?

I've also spoke to my friendly mechanic. He suggests that its wet from the oil in the inlet pipe also, as I had no other symptoms of valve stem failure. He also said the engine misfiring could have caused the build up on the valves. I'm going to go ahead and rebuild it, including the new PCV from Skoda. Will wait to hear what you advise regarding that inlet pipe, @TheClientand also what your thoughts are on my pcv -> intake manifold pipe being free of oil, yet a large puddle of oil being present in the boost piping to the throttle body.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN07aCKVrPRLYBYZFW1PHEMPBslNX7cBGwhaR0eiV8OxnQHJV60Vi1uE-UkpTZblQ?key=WE9FNFJWMFBUb3U3b2hHMkNzQzV3SDR4X3VzNEhn Best pics I have of valves.

3rd photo down, are you suggesting I inspect the pipe externally, or remove it and look inside? I'm not sure I've got the stomach to have the head off and do the valve seals, sounds like it will get very expensive. So far I'm in for around £600 with the plugs, coil packs, injectors, oil, sundries....

Also looking closely at all m pictures I can see a little shiny bit at the top of each valve with no carbon. I'm highly suspicious of my PCV, the fact I've been idling on 3 cylinders intermittently, the fact the idle doesn't return quickly when blipping smooth running engine. The fact it's $10.

Not sure I can agree given the amount of oil in the inlet manifold itself and around the injectors I'd think it's coming from the intake. Also the compression test was spot on. It's also not excessively smoky.