Jimoct

Just had this same issue on a 2012 cr 140 tdi 169k dpf light flashing glow plug and eml light. after reading this forum I scanned with vcds said dpf soot content too high wouldn't regenerate. so bought the dpf pressure sensor. required adapting not plug and play did this glow plug and eml went off and then drove it and it regenerated and dpf light now out for ref for anyone but you need vagcom or delphi etc to rectify this fault the sensor is not plug and play.

hi Ken brake lights all work think it's wiring from what ive read about these 2 faults together going to check the wiring loom.

hello everyone I've had an issue with my skoda octavia scout. firstly flashing glow plug light. scanned with vcds came up with egr. which on mine is a pain to change. took it for a long drive to give it a blast lights came back on, but this time says this p1592 altitude sensor/boost pressure sensor fault and intake air temp sensor g42 p0113 signal too high faults will clear but come back if you turn the car off and on drives absolutely fine. re read and just comes up with map sensor fault. so changed it and glow plug light permanently lit so swapped back. and will now clear. in a seperate issue noticed temp guage doesn't go up to 90 degrees as it used to. so changed temp sensor, still the same so I've got a thermostat. any ideas, ran egr check via vcds and says it's OK.

quick update ecu tested on another car starts and dies. bagcom checked crank sensor got 260rpm so that's ok tried to run in tank pump on vcds says it running but isn't relay clicks swapped pump out off identical car still same. so obviously an electrical issue. not sure if control module in drivers door could be at fault? going to run the car of hpdp direct bypass all the electric see if it runs electrician said to do this. if not have gremlins.

the wiring for that is seperate it's get the signal from and too the canbus behind the radio. all that is on a seperate loom. and has to be activated from the controller it s isn't that as my mate fits that to the cars. Once it's disconnected its has no effect on the car. will swap some bits around as I have another that I use daily. so can try different things. see what happens wanted to see if anyone had any ideas. before I spend hours on it.

that's what he said mine just turns over doesn't start at all so he said it isn't immobiliser. he thinks that came up as i used the new key which he says isn't programmed from skoda. he says crank/cam sensor or ecu failure.

Update spoke with a car electrician and he said not immobiliser problem. as car would start and die. so he says cam/crank sensor or ecus failure. but no codes for those 2 things so not sure.

so just to clarify central locking with the old key only the boot opens and closes non of the doors. new key is seperate issue.

I've got a key that works Central locking still only works the boot lock. the new key just says on dash no key it's a brand new key from skoda nhs don't worry about cost. key may not be programmed or synchro correctly. they probably got the key done when this issue started and most likely reason it was parked up. al just get my mate the key man to check the new key and then look at the central locking. will get the Immobiliser deleted from the ecu will fix the issue so I can start the car. that's all I'm trying to achieve to begin with get the car running.

so what I can find it's an issue with the key antenna or dash cluster. can be deleted has got a new key with it. so they obviuosly thought it was that and not sorted it. so maybe try to fix the issue or delete the immobiliser from ecu if all else fails not ideal I know.

press clutch pedal down engine turns no fuel getting thru obviuosly immobiliser issue. Central locking does not work only on the boot door.

few codes hvac coolant fan. main code is 5523 off vag comm p1570 engine start blocked by immobiliser.

Hi guys bought an ex ambulance scout non starter. 2012 cr tdi engine turns won't fire sounds like maybe no fuel coming thru any tips on checking fuel pumps in tank and high pressure pump? any help appreciated.

hi yes had the cambelt and water pump replaced. and thermostat. now perfect. when they get hot it knackers the thermostat so should be replaced aswell as the cambelt and pump. the garage that does cambelts for me initially said no as they said belt looks new etc so after changed thermostat and also took the plastic grommet out of bleed pipe from the radiator and pulled pipe off stat housing to see if water pumped out which it didnt. so took it back and said do it. pump and belt kit from tps was 167.00 charged me 150 to do it. also skoda updated the cambelt/solenoid pump last march it was due to the plastic insides breaking off and stopped the pump from working. fairly common fault on apparently. the slider inside is now metal. now all good ! and also thank you to all for replying to my question. so now i can change gearbox oil and haldex. ps the belt and pump had done 100k miles.

will have to take this one back to tps tomorrow. as its not working. radiator is starting to warm abit tip hose still cool thought will but the cambelt cover on and put back together and test it tomorrow. see if it overheats again.