DuncanDisorderly

The battery monitor on the negative battery terminal, is there a way to reset this? As in, can I clear its memory (if it has one), reset everything and charge the battery off the car? Reconnect and recode the battery and and let it relearn the parameters?

I understand that mate, bit frustrating when it's ALWAYS showing, under all driving conditions. 5 mins after startup is fair enough, but 3 hours into a 5 hour motorway run it shouldn't be there.

Hi, the radio doesn't switch off whilst driving, after about 5 mins of the engine being off but the ignition on, I get the '12v low, charge by driving' and 'Infotainment will switch off' messages, suggesting the battery is flat. I'd frigged the bonnet switch to get everything to shut down, took about 10mins IIRC. Failing alternator makes sense. I've had it tested though and it couldn't be faulted, and I like to prove faults before replacing parts, otherwise things get very expensive very fast! Have checked the stop-start modules with VCDS, it has the correct reference voltage (7.6v) stored, and is activated. I only checked this after reading methods on here to disable the system.

Nothing, everything turned off. I used to leave the mirror heaters on, but not any more. Same 'High Power Consumption' message with all the consumers turned off. And dashcam (hardwired to a spare switched fuse slot behind the glove box, I've checked this is powering off with the ignition off) and phone charger disconnected.

Aye, I've got a Fluke multimeter and DC amp clamp, nothing showed on the amp clamp, so measured across the battery negative, very little draw (there was some draw, bu the type that'd take months to drain a battery).

Ahh I see, on these Octys it seems it's a chew on getting it to stop working when it's not wanted, hence the various workarounds. Not as straight forward as disconnecting a wire. Just another thought, I get that new alternators are effectively smart chargers, does the fact the charge rate drops right down whilst driving not suggest the battery is properly charged? More to the point the car knows it's charged?

Only with my good old-fashioned amp clamp. No draw when the car is switched off and properly shut down (takes a while for all the modules to power down I guess).

Thanks, I knew the new battery wasn't knackered, but that's the route they took with the diagnosis, and they were the experts. The new battery was coded in with VCDS, the screenshots are from the torque app. I don't leave it plugged in permanently was just looking to see what the voltages are on the fly. Thanks for those pics, trouble is unlike the majority of posts on here, I want my stop/start to work, rather than disabled. Actually, I just want to get to the bottom of the problem.

Thanks Toot, I'm a time served mechanic but haven't worked on cars for years, my experience with car charging systems consists of drop tester, amp clamp and multi-meter, alternator should chuck out 13.5-14.5v. These days it seems it's all maps and scopes, and alternators put out anything from 12 - 15v, depending on what they feel like 😂 I've read about the button inverters, that turn the 'switch stop/start off' button into a 'switch stop/start on' button. Only thing I can say is, the button itself appears to be OE and it displays as switched off when the button is pressed, at the next ignition cycle the SS is back on again (albeit not working). span widget

Arrgh, I've read hundreds of Stop/Start threads here, and on the VW and Seat forums, very few have any resolve to the 'High Power Consumption'. My nightmare: Car (2015 2.0 CRMB Scout) bought from auction, had been sat for 3 months, totally flat. It had a non-original 096 AGM battery fitted. I charged it with a smart charger, it seemed OK, everything except the stop/start worked. High Power Consumption listed as the only reason for the SS not working. Sat with engine off but ignition and radio on, I got the 'battery low, start engine' message after about 5mins. I replaced that battery with a new Varta 096 AGM, and had it coded. Stop/Start still not working, still have high power consumption message and battery low message after about 5mins. Took it to a local VAG specialist, who condemned the (new) battery. Reluctantly replaced the battery again, sent the condemned one back to the supplier, who got on touch to say they'd tested it and it was fine. So now I'm on the third battery. But still no SS, and same messages. Took to an auto-electrics specialist, told them the history. They tested the new battery and confirmed it was fine, said they found an exposed section of wiring from the alternator, that the alternator was partially charging to a 'default' level, but not dynamically as demanded by the car. Wiring repaired, battery charged, tested and re-coded, car ran for a few weeks. Alternator tested and found to be fine. Stop/Start still not working, 'high power consumption' still listed in the reason for SS not working. Replaced the alternator clutched pulley, no reason to but clutching at straws. Got hold of VCDS, and checked the stop_start_reference_voltage in module 19 CAN gateway, after reading here of the methods to DIS-able stop/start, found that it was bot active and the correct factory reference voltage of 7.6volts. So doesn't appear to have been fiddled with. Started checking battery charging voltages on the fly, and found that whilst driving, the battery is consistently 12.4v, and the alternator 13.4v whilst driving steadily, EXCEPT on the overrun. Back off the throttle and the alternator voltage shoots to 14.9v with the battery trailing consistently one volt behind at 13.9v. For reference, this car does very little stop/start driving in towns, its mostly motorway miles with the occasional 10 to 20 mile run. And doesn't spend long periods laid up. I'm not even bothered about the stop/start not working, it's the 'battery low, charge by driving / radio will switch off' messages that are annoying me. So my big question to the experts is: - Why does the alternator only charge on overrun, - Why do I always have the 'high power consumption' message, when everything OE is switched off and everything aftermarket is physically disconnected and, - Why does the car always think the battery is flat, when it isn't? Screenshots of normal driving (this was on the motorway, after about 80 miles. First cruising along. Second I'd just backed off the throttle, on the overrun. I've switched the engine off and restarted several times, lowest cranking voltage I can get is 9.7v

That's brilliant Dave, thank you! The car was advertised as having a Bolero unit, and being on the verge of the late 2015 change over date I really couldn't work out what it was. So MIB2 *should* be the plug and play type camera, won't need the seperate power source. Thanks for your help :-)

Media Codec 2101.0.0.8

Hi guys, just picked up my 2015 Scout, and have the usual questions. I'm wanting to fit the reversing camera but don't know if I need an independant power source or if its plug n play. Could someone tell me which unit I have? Secondly, I don't think the maps have been updated since it was built, there's certainly a few new roads near me that aren't on it. How do I go about updating it? I've updated sat-navs before with cracked software so fairly confident with it. Cheers, Cieran

Perfect, thanks guys, I pick it up in a fortnight when I'm back from work 👍

Hi everyone, I've just put a deposit down on 2015 Scout, 2.0 148 diesel. In the glove box was a printout of the electronic service history, which lists things but doesn't really explain what has actually been done. For example in Nov 2017 there's an entry for "Manufacturer Variable Service Based". Any idea what this means? August 2020 there's a " Automatic Gearbox Oil - Remove and Refit - Auto transmission oil". Which sounds pretty obvious, except its a manual. September 2019 " Flywheel - dual mass (with clutch) Investigate and report". Any way of finding out what that report might be? History doesn't say replace. Car drives right with no indication of a DMF fault. Also got an "Air conditioning system - Remove and Refit" and a "Final Drive System - Remove and Refit haldex clutch". I'm guessing I should read these as 'remove and replace'? Car is on 84k and all the other entries are oils, filters and tyres. Residual oil ash in the DPF sits at 35 grams / 44% which I guess is OK for the age/mileage. Anyone here work at a dealers who can interpret this for me? Cheers, Cieran