DuncanDisorderly

Only one way to find out, get it steamed off so it's spotless, then run it and monitor.

Oh and just to add, mine was a Varta battery from the factory, and it was in fine condition, despite being condemned. The voltages, old lead-acid batteries used a fixed alternator voltage of 13.5 - 14.5 volts, anything less or more was a defective regulator in the alternator. Newer AGM types are charged on demand, the voltages can fluctuate from 12 - 16 ish volts, depending g on what the battery management calls for.

Hi, how did you get on with this? I had a very similar problem with my 2015 150hp Scout. Since I got it, the stop start didn't work, one of the display messages was 'high power consumption'. Checked everything I could with a meter, couldn't find any current draw with the amp clamp, battery seemed healthy but same problem even after a few good charges with the battery off the car. Took it to my local garage, they condemned the battery, so I fitted a new one. Problem wasn't cured. Few months go by, got sick of it again, did lots of googling, decided I needed the coding checking. Took it to a local VAG specialist, they told me the battery didn't need coding on this car and the battery was knackered. Dubious of this given the battery was only a couple of months old, and having read various things about coding, I tracked down a guy I used to work with on the spanners who I knew had VCDS. He hooked it up, there are three battery specific things that need to be coded, one of them was the battery amp hours. My battery was 130ah, the coding was for 13ah. Easy as pie he recoded it to what it should be, 130ah.. Problem solved, stop start working fine, no dash messages, all good. So the car thought it had a tiny capacity battery so it didn't want to engage the stop start in fear of flattening the battery. Really pleased with the fix, really disappointed with the so-called VAG specialist not knowing about battery coding.

Each code details exactly which variant of component is used or fitted.

Thanks for this Carlston, had the precision engineered external through-the-wheel disc measuring device out, deffo 272mm diameter :-)

Cut the ring off today, was only attached by a few buts of rubber. Took a Stanley knife to the inner metal ring to get all the rubber blocks off, nice and tidy. Test drove, not a dot of difference 😅 Would say it's marginally better, but only just. Although that damper ring was loose, it wasn't the source of the drone noise.

Thanks mate, I'll measure up tomorrow. Mines a 2.0 TDi 150hp 4x4 .

Thanks, when I fire the reg into EuroCarParts it gives 2 options, the 253 is the 1KD and the 272 is the 1KS.

Thanks mate, I've got the build sheet, says 1KS 🤔

Howdy all, its late and I'm scratching my head with this.. Trying to source rear calipers, discs and pads. The PR code for my 2015 150 Scout rear brakes is 1KS. Bit everything I find online for 1KS lists as Mk2 Octavia. When I search by model year, there's loads listed for 2015 cars but all have PR code 1KD. Am I missing something here? Dunno whether to order the Mk2 stuff with the right PR code or the 2015 stuff with the wrong PR code.

I've just bought through this seller: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286236597304 Report was sent in under 5 mins from purchase, and it's exactly as described, 7 pages of PR codes for my VIN. Fiver well spent :-)

Thanks JR, I'll cut that ring off and see if that cures the driveline vibration. For the propshaft, I had a good look today whilst I was underneath, I don't think dropping the centre bearing alone will give enough play. That said, it only needs the bottom engine mount undoing, with the engine and box hanging on the top mounts the bottom of the sump can be swung forwards the couple of inches needed to clear the back of the prop. 2 person job, but looks quite do-able.

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Well, some answers but more questions.... The guibo coupling, the rubber condition doesn't concern me, but I've found today that the outer metal ring is not securely attached anymore. I can move the ring a good few mil back and forth, and it's actually clunking back nd forth on the rubber, not just the rubber flexing. So first question... as I understand it, the metal outer ring is just a damper, can I cut it off? Other cars don't have that outer ring. Or will running like this lead to a propshaft through the diesel tank? Second question, searching for the coupling part number (5Q0 521 307) shows the price around £170, but also throws up loads of hits for the A3/Q3/Golf/Tiguan coupling with part number 1K0 521 307, for about £65. Everything I can see in the specs for each appears to be identical, look the same, same diameter etc etc. Interchangeable? I've got a short video of the play but it's too big a file to upload.

Thanks amigo, I'll check that next when I get home next week 🙂

Thanks guys. Steinrawr, is this what we'd call the drive shaft CV joints?

Hi all, my 2015 Scout has developed a significant vibration from the drive train. Usually manifests at around 55mph and stays through to 70mph. It doesn't change if I dip the clutch and coast with the engine at idle, so I'm confident it's driveline. I got the tyres checked and balanced, can't find any play in the wheel bearings or prop shaft, some minor cracking around the prop donut but nothing significant. Sounds worse at the back of the car. Diff oil level is correct, haven't checked the Haldex yet but it was serviced last year. My question...... can I whip the rear driveshafts out and run with the propshaft off, just FWD? This could rule more things out before things get spendy.

Howdy all, looking at new front shockers for my 2015 Scout, but there's different fitments available. I'm away at work at the moment and was hoping to order them so they'll be ready as soon as I get home. Am I right in thinking the Scout has 55mm diameter shockers on the front?

Just been through months of pain diagnosing the Stop/Start system on mine, only to find it was as simple as an incorrectly coded battery causing the fault. For yours, battery type should be Fleece, 70ah and serial number can be anything except what's currently there.

I'm really annoyed with myself for taking other people's word that it was coded. Incidentally, the VAG specialist who condemned the first battery told me that these batteries didn't need to be coded in (after they condemned the new battery and fitted a replacement, I specifically asked them to make sure it was coded in). The auto-electrics specialist did find and fix a wiring fault, and re-coded the battery with a handheld tool rather than a scan tool. Just annoyed with myself that when I had use of VCDS the first time (to check the stop/start minimum voltage hadn't been fiddled) I didn't check the battery coding at the same time. Now, the original battery that was on the car when I got it that had been left flat for months, I assumed would be shot so replaced it. I charged it with a smart charger a few months ago. Checked it this morning and its still got 12. 1v in it, that *might* actually be still use able!

Just a thought, you say no difference in reading with the hose on or off, that's quite a narrow bore hose, could it be blocked?

Seen this type of spurious fault many times on different vehicles (HGVs), usually down to a module gone wrong, causes noise on the CAN network, which then messes everything else up. Gives the impression of multiple faults, in effect its only one fault, but hard to find. In my experience, ECUs are very rarely faulty, when they are there's nearly always evidence of water ingress. Only way to trace this kind of fault is to unplug each non-critical module one at a time, until the fault goes. This can only be done while the fault is 'live', it's a nightmare when it's an intermittent fault. Replacing a wiring loom or ECU should be an absolute last resort in my opinion.

Well this is a bit embarrassing, what a difference it makes having the right tools for the job. Battery coding was previously done with a handheld unit (not mine). Checked the 4 battery coding adaptions this morning: Manufacturer, VOL Type, Fleece Serial number, random AH, was set at 7ah instead of 70ah. No wonder it thinks the battery is almost flat 😂 AmpHours now corrected, battery serial number +1 and graphed. Quick run around town and the stop/start is working perfectly! Moreso the charge rate looks more like it should (12.3v steady with ignition, dipped to 10.5v cranking, elevated to 14.3 running) now it knows its charging a 70ah battery, not a 7ah unit 🙄 Thanks for your help guys

Thanks Varooom, that link is a great help, explains exactly what components contribute to the system. I've got a laptop working, and downloaded VCDS. Just thought it was a long shot, but I had a 2002 A6 All Road years ago and remember buying a RossTech adapter for it. Didn't hold much hope, but dug it out the garage and it works! It's a HEX-USB+Can. Also found an old K-line adapter, can't even remember what I got that for. I've connected the car up and tested the ports, it's all good to go. I'll have a set-to with it tomorrow and see what's going on. Thanks for your support so far!