VAGProf

Hey Jim, The ICE is always starts with the HV motor, there is no ordinairy 12V startermotor. That is why the car always takes off on the electric motor. Even if the battery is at 0 or 1%, it may indicate a range of 0 miles, but in fact isn't completely empty. When the HV battery is at 0% and you are driving for days or weeks on the ICE without charging, the 12V system is still being charged from the HV system. When the ICE is running, the HV motor is also spinning, as there is only one clutch to engage the ICE. This means the ICE is making the car move, but at the same time spinning the HV motor, so it can charge the HV system (and 12V system). The A/C compressor is also a small 400V motor, so with 0% battery, the compressor also gets some power from the spinning HV motor. The unit responsible for the 12V battery always tries to keep the battery around 80%, so there is some free space to save some energy that would otherwise be lost. ( for example starting on the top of a mountain with 100% HV battery, when coasting downhill the car can't save the energy in the HV battery, so it has to find some other way to save it, this is mostly done with the 20% reserve in the 12V battery and cooling/heating the coolant for the HV motor and battery)

Hello all, I've read all the posts in this topic and found some wrong information. I'll try to explain how the system works in short, if anyone has some questions, I will kindly answer them. To start with, the 12V battery is charged ONLY with the high voltage system, by the power electronics that also drives the motor (the big metal block with the 6 orange wires connected to it next to the ICE) to be more precise. There is no alternator on the ICE, so if you drive in E-mode or hybrid, it doesn't make a difference in charging the 12V battery. This means the high voltage system must be active to charge the 12V battery, so only when driving or charging the HV battery. The reason why there is only 13.1 or .2V is because the 12V battery is monitored by the gateway, it knows the charging state, so if it is above 80%, ther is no need to charge it, purely wasted energy to keep the system at 14V all the time. This is why the converter only supplies 13.2V to the system to just prevent the battery from discharging. When driving and using the regen while braking, the system will be at 14V, all the modern cars do this, not only the hybrids. Actually most of them only have 12 - 12,5V while accelerating, when coasting or braking the alternator will start to charge the battery. Why Sir_Ron_Norris' battery died, I haven't got a clue, but it isn't related to driving in E-mode or hybrid. Could be an driver error (leaving a light on, something plugged into the 12V socket,...), bad ground connection or just a faulty battery. I hope with the new battery the problem has been solved.

The last I've heard is that it will be released on week 30. so next week. A little more patience, the update is on it's way!

Official release from skoda: In this case, it is sufficient to open and close the driver's door. This will establish a new connection to the phone. It may be necessary to manually select the phone in the Infotainment. The new update will solve it ;-)

Haven't noticed any changes. For the remote ventilation the online help states: cars produced after december 2020, have a 2.0 liter engine or have a tow bar. I can't test the car any futher as it is no longer registered, I have switched to an Audi just 2 weeks ago.

Yes, still H56. ;-)

opening and closing your drivers door while driving is an easier fix ;-)

It's a dealer update, 9GB on USB-C drive. The dealers can create the USB drive with a code: 5FMIB3OI1806

So, my car was a 2020 Octavia with headunit 5E3035816B, software 1664 updated to 1668. With that headunit it was impossible to activate wireless Android auto. Since last week there is an update available on the Skoda server, that will update the version to 5E3 035 816 F and SW version 1806. And I can confirm that my wireless android auto is now working! It should also fix some bluetooth, rear view camera and other issues. The official update will be launched in one or two weeks!

We are here on the Ocatavia mk4 forum, the battery will be disconnected on this vehicle, So my personal advise on the mk4 is that it is safer and way easier to remove the positive terminal. I can send you a picture if you like to see what I mean, I have 10 of them in front of me. And I can easily show you how it is more dangerous to hit the positive terminal while undoing the negative, call it bad design or unfortunate bolt placement. It is something they have thought the kids in school to always first disconnect the negative, I get that. But I never did follow those 'basic rules', I can think und judge for myself what is safer to do when I have to disconnect a battery.

Show me a picture of the spanner you are using, never seen one that can touch the bodywork from where the battery is located! :-D

There is no metal surrounding the postive terminal, undoing the negative first is a rule made up in the 1980's, everything was made out of metal. The way our terminals are designed, there is a greater chance of hitting the positive terminal while undoing the negative :-D

Positive terminal is fine, a lot easier to access, negative terminal is quite short and has a current sensor attached to it. ;-)

Welcome gh5000x, I would recommend to diconnect your battery for a good 10 minutes and try that way, if it's not resolved/comes back I would recommend to go back to the dealer. There will be some warning lights after disconnecting the battery, but they will disappear after a short drive. All the options/functions are managed by the gateway ECU, hopefully a reset will be the cure! The best of luck with your new Octavia!

Today I was informed that they are working on a new 1805 version, but they encountered some problems, so it has been delayed. But for my old 1668 SW, still no further information. Daily faults of the park sensors and bluetooth not connecting. Will be the next owners problem, I'm switching to an Audi A3 in two weeks. The updates are "workshop only" updates, as it works with USB and online connection at the same time. Kind regards, Wes

Welcome to the forum! Last information I received is that the 1788 is going to be updated to version 1803. It is available on the server for downloading to a USB-key, but the official release will be in a few weeks. Kind regards Wes

From my experience with other cars of tha VAG: 1: there is a legally agreed maximum regen without brake lights, 0.01G or 0,1m/s² IIRC, like braking on the engine with a normal car, if the regen brakes harder, the brake lights should light up. With some other models you can disable the automatic regen by turning the ESP in "sport" mode, but I haven't tried it on the octavia yet. 2: you can do everything, just driving is not possible

I would go with regen of the OPF (otto particle filter). Just like a diesel the engine will keep running and start/stop or EV mode won't work. Usually this wil take about 20 minutes to complete. Have you noticed some heat, smell or fans running when you encoutered that message?

Allready tried it, doesn't work for our octavia's And you'll need an online SFD login to write these changes

My new stick is dual A and C, the old one was only USB-A, connected with the Skoda adapter (part number 000 051 443 J) As I'm switching cars 3 or 4 times a week, I allways have a USB-A to C cable with me and the extra adapter if I need C to C. Haven't had any issues yet with cars not accepting my USB drive to play music. As mentioned by PJVRS, Sandisk is the way to go for compatibility. grts Wes

I had a few problems with my old USB-A, taking 5 minutes to load before I could play from it. It was a faulty cheap USB stick (INTENSO, never again!), unable to connect to my PC, unable to format, broke it in half yesterday. Now for the last month I'm using a Sandisk dual USB-A + C 64GB stick, works so well. And I can move the little time-bar on my touchscreen to fast forward my long mixes! To skip just 1 or 2 minutes is hard, it only likes to take big jumps.

After a bit of research, I found out that fuse 65 is for the external sound when driving slow in the iV, not 'engine sound' like they call it in Elsawin. The only solution for the interior sound is to find the module and disconnect it, fuse 59 is shared with many other sensors (Air quality, reverse lights, dimming mirror, button for the parking brake, A/C pressure sensor) The module should be located next to the wiper mechanism, in the middle under the windscreen.

SC65 is the one to pull. The LHD iV in my workshop has it, when pulled out, the actuator for interior sound doesn't work anymore. You are not talking about the exterior sound in the exhaust?