Everything posted by Avocet
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7 seater space-saver installation
You'd be very welcome to them, if you send me a message with your e-mail in it? (Probably just as easy to copy the post and paste it into a Word document though)?
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Paint code for Sirius alloy wheels
Fantastic! Thanks ever so much!
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Paint code for Sirius alloy wheels
Hi All, Would anyone be able to give me a paint code for touching-up the silver "Sirius" alloys on our 2017 car please?
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Oil change volume for 2017 2.0 (150) diesel
No, it burns a bit of oil, so even if it had, it would have long ago got through the excess! The difference between 4.7 and 5 litres is only about half a pint - a mug full. 5 litres brought it to about 2mm above the "full" mark on the dipstick. I'm fine with that. It'll not take it long to burn that off!
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Oil change volume for 2017 2.0 (150) diesel
Aye, that was mentioned on the Kodiaq Facebook page, but for whatever reason (and I did leave it draining while I had my tea), I got a bit more in.
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Oil change volume for 2017 2.0 (150) diesel
If anyone's curious, it took a 5 litre can. I've heard 4.7 litres mentioned, but I think it's a tad more. I did let it drain for a long time. 5 litres took it about 2mm above the top of the "full" mark on the dipstick at its highest point.
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Oil change volume for 2017 2.0 (150) diesel
Sorry guys, probably been asked before, but I had a quick look and couldn't find it. Going to do my own oil change this time. Does anyone know what volume I need please, for an oil and filter change on a 2017 2.0 (150) diesel?
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Bah! Engine management light on!
OK< it's the expensive one... All the others are around 1 Ohm, and this one is over 8. Apparently 6 is the limit. So I'm looking for No. 3 glowplug (the one with the pressure sensor) for a 2017 Kodiaq 2.0 (150) (DSG 4x4 if that makes a difference). Does anyone have any recommendations, please?
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Bah! Engine management light on!
Thanks. I'll have a go at that this weekend. I think it's quite easy to get to them.
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Bah! Engine management light on!
Oh well... it's back...😒 Any suggestions as to what to look for first, please?
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Kodiak towbar without prep
I think it's more likely to be for braking or cooling reasons than because the structure is inherently weaker.
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Bah! Engine management light on!
Thanks both. Didn't do it today. Fingers crossed!
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Bah! Engine management light on!
Oh well it had to happen sooner or later! Mrs. Avocet got in it yesterday (I was away). Started it up from cold and the engine management light came on. Fortunately, son was home, so he gave her a lift in his car. (And a load of cheek about how much better his 30 year old car was than her Kodiaq)!🤣 I stuck my trusty OBD11 fault code reader in it when I got home. it said: P067300 - Cylinder 3 Glow Plug Circuit static Any thoughts, please? I cleared the code, started it up, and it didn't come back on. Car drives fine. Does anyone know whether that code means there's no electrical supply to that glow plug, or whether it means the glow plug itself is faulty? If the latter, how hard is it to swap a glow plug? (2.0 150 diesel, 2017, 50,000 miles).
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Kodiak towbar without prep
Interesting thoughts, guys. Our experience was much the same as that of Skomaz. We live in a rural area. Very few used Kodiaqs available when we were shopping for one. Even fewer with towbars. And yes, I might be put off by a car that had a towbar fitted - partly because we wanted a DSG 4x4, and anything with a towbar might have given both those components a hard time, towing a big caravan, and partly because it might have been a poorly-fitted aftermarket one. It was a bit of a Catch 22 for us - try to find one with a towbar and risk it having been badly fitted and / or done loads of hard miles with a heavy trailer, or buy one without, and put up with the cost of retrofitting. We opted for the latter, but the whole "towbar prep" thing just adds unnecessary complication. If towbar prep is a £200 factory option, I bet there was never a single new Kodiaq sale that fell through, for the sake of £200. Just do it across the range and make an SUV that's fit for purpose!
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Kodiak towbar without prep
That would certainly put me off buying one! It's pretty ludicrous that a manufacturer of large SUVs wouldn't envisage people being able to tow with one. I'd just go for another manufacturer's product that CAN tow.
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tramlining / instability under braking
What are the tyres? We haven't noticed any appreciable tramlining on ours (winter or summer tyres). The summer tyres are Toyo Proxes Sport SUV. The winter ones are Vredestein Wintrac Pro. 4mm is only about half worn, by the way. (Or at least, half the as new" tread depth).
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Petrol particle filter
No, it's important to distinguish between two separate environmental problems here. DPFs and GPFs are to do with air quality. Reducing the amount of particulates we're having to breathe. Respiratory problems like asthma, etc. "Net Zero" is about reducing greenhouse gasses to try and help with climate change.
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Petrol particle filter
We've been dealing with vehicles with GPFs for a few years now, at work. Some VAG, but also Ford and Stellantis. Haven't had a problem in about 10,000 vehicles now, if that gives the OP any comfort? As others have said, petrols run at such high exhaust temperatures normally, that regens just aren't the issue that they are with lightly-used diesels. As they're wheelchair-accessible vehicles. some of them do absolutely tiny annual mileages, and many of them only do short runs.
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Speedometer Accuracy
As others have said, I think the error would be low, unless falling off a cliff. They prefer straight (ish) line speeds, though. If you dove in a tight enough circle, the GPS speed might show zero, but I don't think it's possible to find a car with a tight enough turning circle. By and large they're good enough on a reasonably straight road or even one with shallow bends. Certainly more accurate than the speedo.
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Speedometer Accuracy
Yes, GPS is always more accurate. You might ask why manufacturers don't just use the GPS signal to power the speedometer? That's because if they did, they wouldn't be able to take full "manufacturer responsibility" for their type approval. Part of their speedometer "system" would be dependent on the American government (or Galileo or Glonass) and outside of their control.
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Speedometer Accuracy
20 is a pretty low speed though? What is it like at (say) 100 km/h?
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Speedometer Accuracy
Speedometer signals aren't always linear (in fact, they're usually NOT perfectly linear), so you can probably only configure it to be exactly accurate at one particular speed. (And of course, with one particular tyre, at one particular temperature, pressure and state of wear).
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Speedometer Accuracy
I sure am! It's pretty fishy that anything in Hansard (and thus UK-based) should talk in km/h for a start, but yeah, he's wrong. (Not just any MP, either, a member of the House of Lords)! The lowest speed that the ECE Reg 39 test is carried out at, is 40 km/h even at that speed, the noble lord's claim that manufacturers apply a tolerance of 5% + 10km/h, would put the vehicle out of compliance for both type approval and C&U. At a true 40 km/h it would display 52 km/h (which is above the maximum of 46.5 permitted by Reg 39). Either he was wrong, or there's a typo in Hansard and he meant 5% + 1 km/h. (Even then, he's wrong because all manufacturers don't apply the same tolerances in production. They can apply whatever they like, so long s they stay within the legal requirements!
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Speedometer Accuracy
Construction & Use is old UK-only legislation. Unlike type approval (which applies to the car "as manufactured", the C&U regs apply to the car "as used". In other words, if you buy a new car, the responsibility for speedometer accuracy rests with the manufacturer. However, you can go out and buy it a different sized set of wheels and tyres and by doing so, make the speedo inaccurate. Clearly, the manufacturer can't take responsibility for that, so it's down to you. That's why we need two sets of similar regulations. As you can see, C&U calls up the same ECE Reg 39 that I mentioned earlier. (It also gives the alternative option of complying with the old EC Directive, but that is no longer used these days by mainstream manufacturers and it's requirements for accuracy were exactly the same as in ECE Reg 39 anyway). However, I don't recognise the last bit about a production tolerance of 5%+10 km/h? That's definitely not true. It would be illegal for a start! At a true speed of (say) 20 km/h, the car's speedometer would read 21 km/h (5% of 20) Plus another 10 km/H = 31km/h! Whereas in fact, the type approval regulations would only allow a maximum of 10%+4 which would be 26 km/h at a true 20.
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Speedometer Accuracy
The regs I just quoted, (and posted a link to) a couple of posts above this one, you mean?🤣 Yeah, I know. (I type approve cars for a living)! The bit that was unusual, was linni's replacement Octavia speedometer being "deadly accurate". That's very rare. If a manufacturer makes a speedometer "deadly accurate" he runs the risk that one of them ends up under-reading by a tiny amount (which is not permitted under Reg 39). If the type approval authority that issued the approval catches him doing this, they can force a recall, withdraw his approval (so he can't register any more cars), and the European Commission can fine him up to €30,000 PER NON COMPLIANT CAR! So... When the type approval regulation tells you the speedo has to read anywhere between true speed and 10%+4 km/H ABOVE true speed, but under no circumstances ANY amount BELOW true speed... ...and you know the fines and penalties if they catch you having built a car outside of those limits... What would YOU do, if you were a car manufacturer?😉