jim_d

Hi All, cutting a long story short, after a code read i have the following pop up. this does explain the symptoms i am going through at the moment with my Mark 2 facelift. 2.0l Diesel. Question: has anyone does this themselves? if so, have you documented this? or can you tell me a) the part(s) is needed and b) rough location of it, or maybe a link to a video or something? not a lot that i could find out on the tinternet. thanks a lot, in advance

hi - not related to suspension, do you not find the 1400cc engine underpowered for the Superb? i used to have a 1.6 passat and it was really underpowered. but maybe this is a better engine?

thanks Ken. Its the middle centre one and everything is covered up, i think i have to remove the seat or at least the back panel of the seat then get to the mechanism. Surprisingly, there is very little / almost no YouTube videos on this.

Dear Skoda owners and enthusiasts... Owner of an otherwise wonderful skoda mkII Superb elegance. love the way it drives, looks and how comfortable it is. and by accident, I discovered recently it even has an umbrella slot in the door! bonus! having said all that, since buying her some 6 months ago, i've already spent £350 on a new Configuration Unit (as it had a battery drain) and now i am having 2 further issues, read on: 1 - after folding the rear seats for transportation, the middle seat belt got stuck and wouldn't unwind, to the point where i couldn't put the seat up. i removed the plastic at the top to give it a bit more slack, but that got wound in very quickly (before i was able to catch it) and i had no choice but to cut the damn thing so i can put the seat up. sadly, i now know that for all intent and purposes the car is now illegal to drive as not all seat belts are operational. so have to have it replaced. Question: has anyone done this and is it a DIY jobbie? the extend of my DIY is change of oil, break pads, basic maintenance. 2 - the tailgate now refuses to open from the button at the bottom of the drivers door as well as the button located on the tailgate itself. the only way it will open is by using the key. i checked the fuse, (No 28) and it seems OK. Question: anyone has any experience with this that can help? thank you, as always.....J

right, just to close the loop on this and share the love, as they say. the issue with mine was narrowed down to a faulty Gateway Control Unit, located just behind the dash on the drivers side (RHD). cost is £350 at the dealers (all in) and since then it's been great, no issues.

That's interesting, thanks for the insight. it does have Stop/Start but most probably no BMS, which would make sense.

@mbowler i would personally remove the battery and charge it. This was the advice i was given by the RAC man. I don't believe there are any radio codes to worry about, it may be worth checking the handbook to see if you indeed have a radio code. if you are going to charge it in situ and if it's not in a garage, think about the cable being exposed to the elements. Granted, Doesn't happen often but my bike charger was just plugged in on trickle charge (outside) and eventually elements got to it and it nearly started a fire. i have since replaced it with armoured cable and it's been fine. And re the alarm/doors, if you're charging in situ, nothing to do, but if you're removing the battery, lock the doors, (Don.t forget to leave the bonnet open) then remove the batter and then just leave the bonnet on the latch (i.e. not fully closed) then when you put the battery back in, it may trigger the alarm, switch it off using the key and you're back in business. this way car is locked while charging.

Saga continues again, took it to a mechanic (not a car electrician) and he wasnt able to identify the problem. next step is to call out a mobile electrician and see what they can do on site. this is what happened on Thursday: Wed night voltage reading (after a dirve): 13.8V Thur afternoon @1300 reading: 12.8v (doors were unlocked overnight, no lights can be seen on, alarm not armed.) Thur afternoon @ 1845pm reading: 1V. (this was a brand new battery from ECP and had been on charge since buying it [in case it had sat on a shelf for months]). so there is an event which occurred between 1300 and 1800 which took it from 12.8 to 1v. i think that battery is pretty dead now, wouldn't even react when trying to jump start or charge. what a pain. otherwise a great car. i just have to unplug every time its stationary until it's fixed.

this is really useful info, thank you for sharing this. i will give this a go. have MkII superb and it is a FANTASTIC vehicle. bought it last week. smooth, high MPG acres of space, but keeps draining the battery. alternator seems OK, battery is brand new. i will give the firmware upgrade a go.

yes, it is a new purchase, but i am sorry to say the saga continues. this morning it wont start again. checked the voltage while the car was running this morning and it seems to be returning 13v. i think this means the alternator may need changing

yes, exactly the same. I had to invest in a new battery and now its fine. but after the RAC man left the EML: was still on. after a few trips out it is now off. so good news. i tell you one thing, i am very impressed by it. lovely car.

thanks for the responses @chimaeraand @PipH The RAC man disconnected the battery then drained whatever was lurking in the system, and put the battery back in and it was fine. plenty of erroneous error codes needed to be cleaned up from the system and the car is back to being awesome again. the most likely cause would have been when i put the battery back after a charge it created a spark and that sent the system into some sort of meltdown. i didn't know, but when removing a battery the black comes off first then the red and when putting back on, red goes on first then the black, making sure one carefully insulates the black as much as possible during this. so all probably my fault, but resolved now.

good idea re the fuses, i will do that. i've also called out the AA man, see what they can do.

Thanks for this, i believe its very much an electrical issue as all sorts of errors are reported on the dash and now its asking me for a code when i turn on the radio.

Just an update, what actually happens is that it starts and immediately cuts out.