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Frosty99

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  • Interests
    Skoda Fabia VRS, Engineering, DIY, Modifications, Electronics
  • Location
    England

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  • Model
    Fabia VRS
  • Year
    2004

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  1. Previous to my other threads, especially the "longer than usual crank time" one, I believe I may have a breaking wire in my engine harness loom. The reason I suspect this is due to the very cold temperature we've seen recently, the car has started up first time almost everytime. However, I did get a flashing glow plug light at the same time. However, now it is a bit warmer, the glow plug light has disappeared and we're back to cranking a while before ignition. I suspect that the colder temperature must've made the split in a wire in the loom contract enough to make a good enough contact in order to start up properly. I have no way of testing this theory without wiring diagrams. Previous to this I tested the crankshaft sensor which checked out fine to the respective pins on the ecu and not shorting to ground or to each other. If someone could provide a wiring diagram of the relevant loom, I could have a go at testing this. Additionally, if anyone knows a guide to gain access to the respective loom I should be looking at, would help massively, if not I'll have a go at it myself. Thanks very much guys!
  2. Good evening guys, yet another issue has cropped up just the other night lol, so thought I would ask for some advice / ideas. EML came on with codes P0401, P0489 and P0243. So from what I understand the EGR has insufficient flow detected, the control circuit A is low and the wastegate solenoid A is acting up. Previous to this, the breather hole on the top of the EGR valve has been seeping I presume black oil / some form of black liquid. I have read that this is normal but have also read that this is due to a perished diaphragm. Now, could the situation be such that the diaphragm really has perished and over time has leaked oil / sooty liquid which has potentially fouled the EGR electronics and clogged the wastegate solenoid? Any ideas would be appreciated. I'm thinking of doing an EGR delete anyways as I've heard you get some good benefits from it, rather than faff about replacing a diaphragm. Thanks!
  3. Okay so had an interesting issue occur today. When driving, the car stalled as it does sometimes, upon restarting it stalled again, so after starting again for the 2nd time I managed to get it driveable, but it was limited if that makes sense? No matter how far the accelerator was pushed down, nothing happened. I did note that the engine was making a weird juddering / spluttering noise.
  4. Took a quick look today and it appears that they aren't shorting. I'm not sure if perhaps I got unlucky with the sensor and got a faulty one?
  5. I'll have to check between 1&2 however I managed to get the ecu scanned on Delphi and it's displaying crankshaft sensor no signal permanent fault. I did probe the sensor while it was connected to see what voltage was present on the wires and I was getting approximately 2.7v on all 3 wires. Am I correct in thinking that the black wire is an earth so shouldn't be receiving voltage? Or at least one is an earth?
  6. Yeah I did notice I would need some form of adapting device lol. So, I resistance checked the wires to the ecu including the screen between 2 & 3 and all return around 1.2 ohms and no OL. So that would indicate they are okay by testing if I'm correct? But I may try have a visual inspection if I can just to double check.
  7. Just a quick question on this, does the ECU have markings to indicate pin numbers, even if it's a starting row number or something. If not, do you have a pinout diagram that has the pins and their respective numbers? Cheers
  8. Thanks pete I appreciate the info, I'll be having a look hopefully as soon as possible. Without the wiring documents I wouldn't know were to start, so thank you for that
  9. Hi, I just wondered if anyone could give me some advice on the issue I've been having for a while. So my issue is that the engine will stall and random intervals, including idle. It had before started fine first time nut now longer takes a longer time cranking to start. I've gotten the p0727 code which is crankshaft sensor, however I've replaced that which still didn't fix the issue. This morning the car stalled again but gave me an EML which is the same code, with flashing glow plug light. Could this be the injector wiring harness? Or did I get a bad crankshaft sensor? Any help would be appreciated, cheers. I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump is fine and glow plugs have been changed.
  10. By the lift pump start, I presume you mean the priming squirt noise? If so, out of 10 cycles, I've heard it once. I thought I would leave it a while between starts / cycles.
  11. There's no EML or fault codes coming up when scanning, so back to investigating. If it's not either pump, then the only other thing I can think of is the injector loom as suggested earlier
  12. Oh right haha, my bad. I'm not familiar with how it functions. I'm not sure if it's worth mentioning but it still had to turn over a few times to start when rolling after it stalled. But if it's not the lift pump then my next suspicion would be to check the tandem pump? I might be wrong lol
  13. I see, sounds like the lift pump is acting up then. That would make sense if isn't priming as well
  14. I don't have a vcds cable or software. I think I may know someone that does have the cable, just would have to get the other part myself. If I was able to do so, what would I be looking for? I've not used vcds before. Also, how can I check the output of the tandem pump? I've heard about pulling off a line to the fuel filter and putting it in a container to check flow. However I've noticed now that some of the time, even from sitting overnight, the fuel pump doesn't make a priming noise like it used to do all the time, but afaik last time I tested it with a multimeter it was okay, I'll have to check again soon when I get a few minutes and report back. Annoyingly I was driving yesterday at a steady speed of around 50-60 and the engine cut out and I had to restart it while rolling lol. That's what makes me lean towards the sender pump going bad
  15. Well I checked it over the other day after watching a few vids on alternator testing and it's fine, voltage is good and battery is also good. I replaced the fuel filter as I needed to do it anyway but still we have the same problem. The fuel pump is perfectly fine as it primes and starts the engine. My next guess is maybe a partially blocked injector? I'm not sure. I don't know what would cause the engine to randomly stall sometimes. The air filter is fine and had a new set of glowplugs not long ago. Quite stumped if I'm honest. It used to start first time on the turn of the key
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