Frosty99

I've checked the contacts, they weren't terrible but definitely needed a clean up. Did that on the starter and the battery earth, still the same issue. I would assume the starter is going then? Is there any way I can make sure it's the starter definitely not performing as it should? Cheers

The battery itself is about a year old so I'll check the connections to the battery and the starter just to be sure. What rpm does the starter need to achieve in order for it to start up right away? I've read at least 300rpm somewhere. I've got a vcds clone that can measure rpm and stuff but not sure exactly where to look to find that. Are there any other parameters that could affect the extended crank starting?

Thanks for the info, I'll see if I can get my hands on a replacement

Hi all looking to replace my starter motor as it's been cranking slower recently leading to longer starts. I've looked all over the place for the correct part number and I get a couple different ones. So far the part number I've found online is 02M 911 023 AX, done on www.skoda-parts.com with VIN. Can anyone tell me if this is definitely correct? I'd like to get a 2nd hand one if possible. It's for a 2004 Fabia VRS engine code ASZ, thank you

Hi guys just thought I'd post this on here in hopes of getting some ideas on the long start I'm having with my fabia. I've been having this issue a long time now which came on one day suddenly. When starting up, it takes about 3 seconds of cranking before the engine starts. Last time I checked with VCDS I got a camshaft position sensor signal implausible (I think) error, so since then I've replaced the camshaft position sensor still the same issue. I've then replaced the crankshaft sensor, checked the wiring from both sensors to the ecu for continuity and they check out okay. So I'm currently a bit stumped. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Previous to my other threads, especially the "longer than usual crank time" one, I believe I may have a breaking wire in my engine harness loom. The reason I suspect this is due to the very cold temperature we've seen recently, the car has started up first time almost everytime. However, I did get a flashing glow plug light at the same time. However, now it is a bit warmer, the glow plug light has disappeared and we're back to cranking a while before ignition. I suspect that the colder temperature must've made the split in a wire in the loom contract enough to make a good enough contact in order to start up properly. I have no way of testing this theory without wiring diagrams. Previous to this I tested the crankshaft sensor which checked out fine to the respective pins on the ecu and not shorting to ground or to each other. If someone could provide a wiring diagram of the relevant loom, I could have a go at testing this. Additionally, if anyone knows a guide to gain access to the respective loom I should be looking at, would help massively, if not I'll have a go at it myself. Thanks very much guys!

Good evening guys, yet another issue has cropped up just the other night lol, so thought I would ask for some advice / ideas. EML came on with codes P0401, P0489 and P0243. So from what I understand the EGR has insufficient flow detected, the control circuit A is low and the wastegate solenoid A is acting up. Previous to this, the breather hole on the top of the EGR valve has been seeping I presume black oil / some form of black liquid. I have read that this is normal but have also read that this is due to a perished diaphragm. Now, could the situation be such that the diaphragm really has perished and over time has leaked oil / sooty liquid which has potentially fouled the EGR electronics and clogged the wastegate solenoid? Any ideas would be appreciated. I'm thinking of doing an EGR delete anyways as I've heard you get some good benefits from it, rather than faff about replacing a diaphragm. Thanks!

Okay so had an interesting issue occur today. When driving, the car stalled as it does sometimes, upon restarting it stalled again, so after starting again for the 2nd time I managed to get it driveable, but it was limited if that makes sense? No matter how far the accelerator was pushed down, nothing happened. I did note that the engine was making a weird juddering / spluttering noise.

Took a quick look today and it appears that they aren't shorting. I'm not sure if perhaps I got unlucky with the sensor and got a faulty one?

I'll have to check between 1&2 however I managed to get the ecu scanned on Delphi and it's displaying crankshaft sensor no signal permanent fault. I did probe the sensor while it was connected to see what voltage was present on the wires and I was getting approximately 2.7v on all 3 wires. Am I correct in thinking that the black wire is an earth so shouldn't be receiving voltage? Or at least one is an earth?

Yeah I did notice I would need some form of adapting device lol. So, I resistance checked the wires to the ecu including the screen between 2 & 3 and all return around 1.2 ohms and no OL. So that would indicate they are okay by testing if I'm correct? But I may try have a visual inspection if I can just to double check.

Just a quick question on this, does the ECU have markings to indicate pin numbers, even if it's a starting row number or something. If not, do you have a pinout diagram that has the pins and their respective numbers? Cheers

Thanks pete I appreciate the info, I'll be having a look hopefully as soon as possible. Without the wiring documents I wouldn't know were to start, so thank you for that

Hi, I just wondered if anyone could give me some advice on the issue I've been having for a while. So my issue is that the engine will stall and random intervals, including idle. It had before started fine first time nut now longer takes a longer time cranking to start. I've gotten the p0727 code which is crankshaft sensor, however I've replaced that which still didn't fix the issue. This morning the car stalled again but gave me an EML which is the same code, with flashing glow plug light. Could this be the injector wiring harness? Or did I get a bad crankshaft sensor? Any help would be appreciated, cheers. I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump is fine and glow plugs have been changed.

By the lift pump start, I presume you mean the priming squirt noise? If so, out of 10 cycles, I've heard it once. I thought I would leave it a while between starts / cycles.

There's no EML or fault codes coming up when scanning, so back to investigating. If it's not either pump, then the only other thing I can think of is the injector loom as suggested earlier

Oh right haha, my bad. I'm not familiar with how it functions. I'm not sure if it's worth mentioning but it still had to turn over a few times to start when rolling after it stalled. But if it's not the lift pump then my next suspicion would be to check the tandem pump? I might be wrong lol

I see, sounds like the lift pump is acting up then. That would make sense if isn't priming as well

I don't have a vcds cable or software. I think I may know someone that does have the cable, just would have to get the other part myself. If I was able to do so, what would I be looking for? I've not used vcds before. Also, how can I check the output of the tandem pump? I've heard about pulling off a line to the fuel filter and putting it in a container to check flow. However I've noticed now that some of the time, even from sitting overnight, the fuel pump doesn't make a priming noise like it used to do all the time, but afaik last time I tested it with a multimeter it was okay, I'll have to check again soon when I get a few minutes and report back. Annoyingly I was driving yesterday at a steady speed of around 50-60 and the engine cut out and I had to restart it while rolling lol. That's what makes me lean towards the sender pump going bad

Well I checked it over the other day after watching a few vids on alternator testing and it's fine, voltage is good and battery is also good. I replaced the fuel filter as I needed to do it anyway but still we have the same problem. The fuel pump is perfectly fine as it primes and starts the engine. My next guess is maybe a partially blocked injector? I'm not sure. I don't know what would cause the engine to randomly stall sometimes. The air filter is fine and had a new set of glowplugs not long ago. Quite stumped if I'm honest. It used to start first time on the turn of the key

Yes, I get the battery light on with ignition

Yeah changed the sensor. It didn't change anything if I'm honest, the only thing I noted was better mpg. The only other concern is the plug that connects to the alternator (red and blue wires) seems to have undergone a repair by the looks of it. Maybe that is a factor?

So recently I've been having hard starting problems and occasionally at idle the engine will stall. However, today whilst I was driving, the engine cut out with the battery light on. Managed to get it over somewhere safe for now. A while back when I first started having these problems I checked the alternator voltage and it was producing an acceptable level and battery voltage was relatively okay. So my question is, do I need a new alternator or is it a battery issue? I tried starting it up again which worked, no battery light, but I fear that if I do drive, it'll die again and won't start anymore. Would love to know before spending on one. Also, does anyone know the procedure for replacing it? Cheers!

When you say replace the two oil cooler gaskets, are those just the o-rings with the tabs on them? I found one of those and according to the handles manual I believe there is only one of that type, whilst the other I believe is a standard o-ring?

This seems rather simple to carry out. Do you reckon its much oil then from the housing? Just debating whether I'd need to worry about topping up or to not really bother. Thought I'd might as well do an oil change whilst I'm there anyways.