Frosty99

As the title suggests, I'm in need of replacing my crankshaft sensor. Now I am aware the location is behind the oil filter. How do I get the sensor out? From what it seems, the heatsink on the oil cooler blocks the sensor from being removed. Can I just remove the cooler or is it best to take off the oil filter housing? Thanks

So reviving this thread a bit. I found the sensor, it is properly tucked away. I had a go at getting it out but it physically won't come out unless the oil cooler is removed as the heatsink completely blocks it from coming out. Now, my questions are how do I remove this? And do I definitely need to remove it? What I've found happening now is along with the struggling start, it will idle for a few moments and then die. Not sure if this is typical behaviour for a dying crank sensor? Any info on how to complete this task would be super helpful, I need to get it sorted asap.

I believe so. But checking online for a crank sensor, they were all titled crank/cam sensor. I've looked for the location of the crank sensor and all pointed towards the cam sensor. I've tried googling and looking in the Haynes manual for a crankshaft sensor location but I can't find it, so that led me to believe it only had the camshaft sensor if that makes sense. Weird thing is that once the engine has been run and you start it again a few minutes later it starts instantly.

So managed to get a chance to check the earths, they check out okay. But still getting a longer start issue. I've replaced the cam sensor in accordance with the fault code as the old one wasn't measuring continuity across any of the pins. I checked the tank fuel pump which checked out fine resistance wise as I wasn't hearing the priming sound on a cold start, but I can occasionally. The next thing in my thought process would be fuel filter? I know that hasn't been changed in a long time, especially as I have only up to 60k service history and bought the car on 110k. Any other ideas would be very helpful guys. Another thing to note is the brake light switch functions normally.

Thanks for all the info guys! I'll be sure to take a look at the earth points when I get a chance, hopefully in a day or so and also check out the crank sensor. I would have thought if the sensor was bad it would throw an EML and not start or really have trouble doing so. Unless it's on the way out and hasn't totally died. I just thought it was totally weird how everything seemed to fail at once especially the power steering pump not being on but was after clearing the fault code.

I measured 12.6v before starting and 14.6v after starting. Bit embarassing, but I've never done this before so any pointers on what earth points I should check and where would be greatly appreciated. The Haynes manual doesn't give a great deal of information about what earths are where specifically. As for the brake switch, I did recently watch a video on that, I'll take a check in the morning but as far as I know, they operate normally.

Thanks guys. I'll run through battery and charging checks. I do however know for a fact that the battery light does come on with ignition but upon engine start, turns off. I think I misread about the error code then.

TL;DR - Engine recently needing to crank over more than usual to start, suddenly got lots of dash warnings the other day upon starting: TCS, EML, Glowplug flashing, ABS, Power Steering.

As the title suggests, after starting up the engine, it cranked over a few times before starting, to which immediately there was a flashing glow plug warning, TCS warning, no power steering and a warning for that, EML and I think potentially an ABS warning. I scanned the ECU and got a P0727 code. I believe it was an Engine Speed Sensor fault, but I have googled this code which suggests it is a steering angle sensor. I cleared the code and everything works as usual. However a bit of background on this issue is that previously the engine used to turn over once and start immediately with no other issues. Recently, the engine has had to turn over a few times before it starts. Replaced the glowplugs which still didn't solve the issue. Prior to driving to work before all the faults occured, it was raining quite heavily and there is no under tray, not sure if this is a problem? Next on the list was to replace the fuel filter which could have been partially clogged. I've replaced the coolant expansion tank within the last 6 months as I was getting a coolant temperature fault when cold starting. I'm not sure if there is damage to one of the looms where there may be a common connection to all of these issues? I've never had an issue like this before so I found it completely abnormal. I've tried looking at the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual but nothing suggested to me that all these sytems shared the same wire loom which may have been contaminated etc. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated as I'm a bit weary that when driving the power steering will just cut out an it would make it a bit dangerous to drive lol. Thanks!

Yeah I did think of that nothing like a bit of self-control. I have tried to be more gentle with the ol right foot but it hasn't really done all THAT much. I just wanted to know if it was technically possible to perform a swap

As the title suggests, I'm looking at the idea of performing an ECU swap. The idea behind this is that I'm just curious / wondering what you need in order to change ECU's. I'm a bit of a cheapskate and don't want to have to payy £200 for an ECO map and I'm looking have a bit more fuel economy from my vRS. I bought it actually not realising it was re-mapped to stage 1. I love the power don't get me wrong, but sometimes it can be costly. What I'm wondering is that if I can get hold of an ECU (usually about £30-£35), is it just plug and play? I've read online that if there's an immobiliser (which no doubt there is), that the VIN needs to be programmed in the ECU for the car to start? I'm not sure how true this is. Also, what's the possibility of having 2 maps on an ECU and being able to switch on the fly or before startup, I just think it would be cool if you feel like booting it or another day, saving your wallet. Any info would be helpful, thanks guys.

You reckon that would work? If so, how does it work? I'm assuming that it just tries to push the tyre bead right against the alloy to create that snug fit

So after about 3 days of my car sat on the drive, I've noticed that 3 of my tyres lose pressure, 1 of them losing the most quicker. I'd want to get these fixed as I've heard that leaving your car on deflated tyres can ruin them and I don't particularly want to buy 3 new tyres as I am sure the tread is still good. I haven't tested to see if it's tyre tread or bead leak yet, but say it is bead leak, how can I go about fixing them and is it possible to do it myself? Or another option may be to get a used set of alloys with tyres. I've heard most garages can fix a tyre slow puncture for about £10-£20 a tyre. Any info would be helpful, cheers.

Cool, I'll give it a go tonight and report back if it's the same or not. Yeah I had a feeling I might have a piston issue. Do you know if the self bleed kits are any good? I was looking at getting one that uses tyre pressure to provide the "pumping of the brakes". Thanks for the help

When sat on the drive no engine on, I'll pump the brakes and the'll harden but they'll still sink when holding pressure on the pedal. From what I can see there isn't any leaks coming from the calipers, so perhaps this is an internal leak? If it is the master cylinder as you say, is that relatively difficult to repair as a 1 man team? Cheers

I've noticed that when braking, the brakes will operate normally (although most of the caliper carrier pins I think have seized). The rear inner brake pad seems to be worn right down, yet the outer pad is fine. I've checked the piston and the seal that usually covers it has perished / non existant (perhaps this is where the issue lies?). When the brake pedal has full travel, it will harden as expected, however you can feel the pedal slowly sink to the floor. Any ideas where I should start for diagnosis? I thought about replacing the carrier pins and then bleeding each caliper and then try again. Any ideas would be helpful, many thanks.