Former

That should be a coincidence given you are in a 2020 modern car with all of its remoteness for the driver from the car with sound insulation, infotainments and computer systems. You would need to go through a couple of tankfuls, not x-gallons or x-litres (depending on your age) for the fuels to have any real accumulated difference -so either go through a couple of tankfuls of higher octane fuel with additional cleaner additives and lower ethanol or go back to a couple of tankfuls of lower octane fuels with less cleaner additives and higher ethanol and see if it gets worse, better or no difference. I'd chose the former. The garages and tuner should have picked up any air leaks with their diagnosis and scanners on live running data - but that's the same for timing errors or if wrong coil pack was changed or spark plug issues. The engines (and cars) are run by computer so who knows what errors and "glitches" are in heir programming but they still run mechanical and electrical bit which can be faulty or damaged (or not made right). The fact that you drove home without the popping may suggest something needs to accumulate, or get warm or move to reintroduce the issue so note this and tell whoever is next to look at the car. Unfortunately you do see reports of several looking at a vehicle until someone right, or just lucky, looks at it and sorts the issue (unless it's a car, component or manufacturer issue either not known or acknowledged, yet or ever. It's a very frustrating and expensive process but do bear in mind it's only a car, a lump of metal and plastic and it could be sorted and might even turn out to be something simple previously missed or not showing. Good luck.

In my experience the front dampers VWŠkoda use instead of being called "shocks" should be called "shockings". 😁

Other than my previous comments about figures I thought your figures might cause some more comment, I must admit I thought they'd be sooner and more of them. Same as yours, and from others previously, figures from using a battery charge, if accurate of course, would be against some internet information and beliefs. As put it would have been very interesting to see figures from when the battery was new and used and the VW program holding the battery charge at the around 80% especially against your your figures when the battery, alternator and car were two of use old. Monitoring the battery at 2 years of use and 6.5 years of use is a (very little) bit like looking at the fuel gauge and deciding when you want to refill the tank (with the tank contracting with use and time).

Hi, welcome. peta2020 only posted on Briskoda 3 times, the last site visit made was 24 December 2020, so you may be lucky and get a rely but possibly not. You could try asking in the Octavia Mk3 forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ HTH.

Just out of curiosity, what was the dampers' valves changes from and to, and oil type and viscosity from and too, and what were the changes to achieve?

Are these VW /VCDS figures? You are you saying after 3 hours on your charger maintainer the battery went from a recorded 75%, 28Ah to 76% 28Ah(?). IIRC you have used it on two separated 12 hour session before, now this 3 hour go, if you want to why not buy the fancier (much more) expensive charger maintainers and find out for yourself (and if you report back your findings the benefit of other members here, at your financial cost) or perhaps borrow a fancier (much more) expensive one from someone that has already bought it or got it as a present.

For the tyre pressure you have now rather than assume take measurements with a reasonably reliably accurate tyre pressure gauge when the tyres are 'cold' in similar conditions to previous measurements. As for ride quality it may be effected by the valve and oil replacements you have had done on your dampers which may perhaps be some of the difference with the new tyres as they were fitted on the same day. Doing this on a 2024 UK car (with 3-years warranty) would be very unusual especially if the factory dampers are the type (make) that later leak (called "misting" by VWŠkoda in UK). Good to get real world reports but they are just general guides for others as there are some many variations but any real reporting is usually better than the tyres marketing and unrealistic testing done by some. Be great to hear how you find and get on with the tyres.

Yeap if it's just the remote part of the key fob that's given up the ghost (far, far to prematurely compared to other manufacturers offerings). I wasn't thinking enough and taking a wider interpretation of the thing not working, more likely the remote part failing I'd guess. The time before the alarm goes off seems to vary, as my wife found the one on her 2015 sounds as soon as you open the door but another reliable source has said the alarm didn't go off for them when opening the door, perhaps they got to the ignition in under 20 seconds or less.

ETA: if I've read the 'Owner's Manual' correctly (not always easy with the VWŠkoda manuals I find) you can also deactivate the 'Internal monitoring' via the Infotainment menu so this may mean it doesn't have the switch button low down on the driver's side seatbelt pillar which my wife's 2015 Fabia has to switch off (not set) the interior and towing monitor.

Hi, welcome. AFAIK you wouldn't - but why would you not have a working key fob available (possibly at great inconvenience I realise as one of my wife's VW key fobs failed, another poor quality VW part). If you don't already do so best is not to have a "spare" key but keep all in use with some sort of alternating rota (I swap use of the two remotes every 6 months) this way gives more even wear and tear on the key fobs (and locks with key blades) and you know where the "spare"/other key(s) are located and the possible state of the remote battery. Also for those proximity KESSY remotes when not in use they want to be well away from the vehicle so as not to be competing for the vehicle's attention in a Faraday pouch or a tin. If you've not already do so you can read the 'Owner's manual' for the car for advice and instruction on this and many other matter that could save time, hassle and expense with unnecessary visits to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. A free VWŠkoda version is available at the VWŠkoda 'Owner's manual' site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models HTH.

With so many lack of communication error codes I'd not take too much notice of any of the other error codes until more diagnostics and information is done and available. I put a link to a good diagnostics chap for general information and examples of how things are so intertwined, his latest video is a good example, knowledge, experience and access to the right information also helps but like everyone he had to learn things for a first time to know them now. BTW nothing wrong with suitable good quality LED bulbs but many buy cheap crap that can cause issues. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=js4XbiFl2Yc

Hi, George, welcome.

There may be several reasons why VW have the ride that high, by choice and not, smaller wheels would lower it but of course the body panels are to cater foe the oversized and very oversized wheels offered by VW (and other manufacturers) so need "filling". I have only driven my wife's 2015 Mk3 SE so don't know about other Fabia, though I did get a ride at Bruntingthorpe in a VRS Mk1. Based on driving my wife's car the steering and ride is vague even for a modern car where the driver is generally very unconnected/remote from the car (other than the infotainment and ambient lighting) but the purpose of the car is to be a smaller (by modern standards) family car so not expected to provide an entertaining ride ((other than the infotainment and ambient lighting) certainly as a MK3 SE anyway. In fact any drive or ride entertainment comes from driving the car with its limitations. I'm not against modifying standard cars as I've done so in the past but often I find it more rewarding to drive within the limitations when possible. Something most, certainly men, often don't want to consider or accept is tuning the driver can get better improvements and is more productive and transferable to another car at not further cost is further driver training (and I'm not suggesting anyone here particularly might need this other than myself as I only know myself here, there might be advanced drivers and track instructors here, I've no idea).

Great stuff. Up to you but these individual videos might also be useful as three threads in the 'Skoda Fabia Guides' section, linked to each other as relevant. A few words of text to show at least the centre console removal and fitting the kit relate to a Fabia Mk3 with DSG. I was going to put more generally photographing in landscape rather than portrait gets more information in but a quick zip through your videos I see you change some to landscape. Pity VW caused the problem but well done to you on fixing the issue and providing others with the information.

Hi, welcome.

Good point that there could be more than one issue contributing to the problem and as the systems are so complex and intertwined a seemingly unrelated issue could contribute or cause the problem. A 90(?)Ah battery could be useful in a very cold or very hot location but would be very large for general UK use, unless the electric loads or use are a lot more than generally here.

Could be the ground it is parked on, not level or humps and/or dips at side(s) and/or front to back or diagonal(s), what is at front or rear, at side or diagonal can exaggerate the closeness or gap of tyre to wheel arch. You need to see the car on completely level ground all around, at kerb weight with nothing inside the car, to compare it with another model in the same circumstances. Also the angle of the photo and the way it has been taken don't help plus you have no information about the camera lens and its perspective, looking at photos unless engineering type specifications could give you lots of false impressions. you need to see the cars in their metal (and plastic).

That's totally a fashion thing that goes back decades now but if that's your taste then it is your car and your money you are spending. If the car is new and unused it will sit prouder than an older worn car. The wheels and tyres are oversized for fashion going back decades too, even for (over) heavy VW cars, but again if anyone wants oversized wheels and tyres they are available as factory standard. The style and size of wheels will also alter the appearance, as will colour and colour contrast to body colour, restricted with a white or black car. How heavy are you and your passengers and what you will carry in the car as that will to some extent lower how the car sits. How the car rides and handles and the comfort are a different matter. If you are somewhere that gets a lot of sticky snow or mud you might value the tyre to wheel arch clearance more. You need to ask the selling garage what exactly the difference is in suspension for your €150 extra do not make assumptions, is it just 15mm lower or are there also differences in the suspension parts, hopefully (but not always) improvements for your use (many "improvements" turn out not to be better). Good luck.

It's not smart (same as other "smart" devices) I'm not sure if it's even called smart, controlling yes. With the battery charging you have done I don't see how a fancy (expensive) charge would do much, if any at all, better, yes charging lower amps might have added a bit but really it boils down to charging sooner than the 6.5 years possibly/probably but all might be incremental. It's no real effort to fully charge a new battery before installation and if the battery is already well, or fully, charged at delivery it ain't going to take long is it. True the VW programming will want to get it down to around 80% for the minimal/pretence of fuel and emissions reductions, as we know VW were very concerned with emissions. You can do nothing about the past but you could extend the future longevity of the battery but then it's a very small cost saving on a VW product with all its servicing requirements and shorter lived parts - but at least you've got all those marvellous features, "aids" and "assists" on the car that weren't on previous years. 😁 You could if you want. I just watch the initial voltage figures on the "smart" 4-amp Ring charger maintainer at the start of charging to give me an idea of how the charge might be and go on then occasional glances at the voltage reading to get an idea how things are going and when they might get to "FUL" on that charger maintainer. Some think I spend lots of time on the car's battery but I really don't, very, very little, in fact I should check more often but I don't as I really dislike farting about with cars particular our cars (in the past now) and particularly the VW product my wife has now, just a very occasional, easy clean-hands work of, preventative recharging with the Ring to save upsetting the gods that are VW programming on the car and keep as much as reliable as they can be on such a car, not that it doesn't still make me suffer.

Yeap usual VW disregard for their 'rules' and standards with battery serial number of factory default ten ones (1111111111). The JCB IIRC is for Johnson Controls a big supplier to car manufacturers. As I put before don't get too hung up on these figures from two different lots of computer programs (VW and VCDS) and as I almost put before and Aidfort actually did, as always with percentages (especially perhaps 100%) you have to ask percentage of what. 5-amps is closer to the one-tenth charging rate VWŠkoda put in the 'Owner's Manual' - you have a 59Ah so for tenth it would be a 5.9 amp charger, for the Heineken effect on batteries that have got to a low state of charge from regular use or other long slow drain I've always found using lower amp chargers is more effective (backed up by some stuff on the web but that means little) say 2 or 3-amp. Having said that I use a 4-amp for my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 (replacement) battery, as that's what I bought for it, and I do a very few occasional preventative charges rather than reactive charges (fire-fighting as some call such things). If you had a newer VW model than 2019 you may not have got as far as 6.5 years on the battery, certainly not in its current condition based on other owner's experience at least and VW would tell, whoops, sorry, advise you to change the battery at 5 years, probably in your 'Owner's Manual' as it is in the 2019 (IIRC, 4-years later I think) VWŠkoda models. Charging a battery for a modern car, particularly if taken too low in charge, requires two things that many people, particularly professionals in the car trade, have little in stock - time and patience. If you've not got the instruction book for your charger you may still be able to get a pdf version from Lidl and Aldi's archives, here's one I got years back when trying to help the old farts with a certain marque of old (over-priced and over-valued) cars called "classics" - btw I was one of those old-farts but surprising (for some here) not so stuck in the past. 😄 IAN 383685_2110.pdf

That'd be a true rarity but if you throw enough, er, mud at a wall eventually some of it might stick. 😄 Possibly a pipe to do with air which upsets the computers and running of their systems and the engine - but that's just a guess and I'm far from knowing much/anything about mechanics (and the mysteries of how VW do things, the corporate mindset, other than what's been proven in courts, I've not kept up with the last VW bosses in court thing).

Already done so in my last post - The green, er, box, over his member name is a shout out that might bring him to the thread when he has a chance. I think you can do the same, you just put the @ sign at the very start, e.g. @nta16 = @nta16. HTH.

Hi, welcome. You might be better off looking in and/or asking in the Octavia forum (Mk2 if you have a 2012?). Or @pab567 may be able to help and advise you. HTH.

Hi, welcome. So many things to check that might throw this up, proper diagnostics required, and being intermittent is a PITA so you might have to throw in wiggle, hot, cold, water/damp tests. Certainly start at the battery and main power and earth connections and leads, then you might test fuses, relays, ignition/start buttons, modules, wires, connections, etc.. Then the computer systems are complex and intertwined so if there is a second or more contributing problems it could be back loading from lots of sources. The CAN bus can be off from the starting point and/or or points playing it up. You've not put which (part)year your car is or if it's DSG and or KESSY (light or to me full nuisance), IIRC the CJZD is the 1.2 TSI with extra turbo(?). Intermittent or not for electrical stuff on a car I don't know I'd (not that I know or can do much) always start at the very basics, that are often missed by even the knowledgeable and experienced, from battery posts on, are the terminal posts clean, and terminal post clamps clean (inside and out) and securely fitted, then main battery leads and their connections, check battery state of charge and condition - then plug in the scan tool to see what it has. Let us know how you get on if you're lucky you might get someone good at diagnostics and find it's something quite straightforward and easy fix despite it looking so dramatic. See this chap who gets similar with other cars/vans and how he solves them. - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354

It may depend on what was happening with the car, battery alternator between the two lots of 12 hours 5-amp charging but it's inevitable that a used 6.5 year old battery won't be as good as new but it all seems very reasonable, plenty of useful life left in the battery. Don't get too bogged down with figures and percentages the battery wear, tear and useful life isn't a straight line, bit like tyre tread wear and fuel range left, depends on how the car is used in the future (that not even the great gods of VW computers and their programming can know exactly). Generally, historically at least for other models possibly including a 2019 VW product the stop/start will at least at periods stop functioning when it should be functioning, way, way(, way) before the battery is on its last legs and unable to start the car. Based on the experience of others you can flog the battery to death over months of driving and have a good selection of warning lights and messages and unseen error codes greet you with greater repletion over shorter intervals or staying on and possibly finally joining the statistics of number one reason for breakdown call-outs (totally the battery's fault of course 😄). My wife's then 3-year old AGM 60Ah battery took IIRC 15 hours to fully recharge on a cold winter's night using a Ring 4-amp charger maintainer and this was a preventative charge the battery wasn't 'low' by any VW (product) standards. It was just that the car was doing lots of very short journeys at the time and must be fully functioning for the boss - ignoring the loud underside clonk(s) and squeak(s) the cold exasperates (me not the boss she just turns the radio up to la-la to) - and I certainly don't want to be farting about with it when it's very cold (!"£$%^& short-lived VW remote key).