Former

Well done on finding the solution by experimenting but you could have saved yourself some time by reading the car's 'Owner's Manual'. I know the VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manuals' aren't always great, particularly the newer the car, and it's not macho but reading the car's 'Owner's Manual' can at least help identify what that image is about. A Scala owner recently asked about the same image. VWŠkoda's site for 'Owner's Manuals'. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models When I drive a neighbour's Corsa I sometimes catch the steering wheel stich wheels when reversing and each time have to remember how to get rid of the elapse time clock. Far, far too many (unnecessary) computer program "features" on modern cars for me.

@Thefeliciahacker I wasn't there so don't know what happened and am only going on what you report but you set yourself as being lucky which you was but you don't recognise that all your decisions and actions perhaps contribute to some extent to the near miss arising. Until you mature your attitude more you will not accept these things to yourself let alone others, perhaps it's your personality and you never will. I have sympathy for you being upset by this near miss but not your lack of wanting to learn from it and accept your part in it other than downplaying your inflated high opinion of your driving skills by saying you were lucky. Reread your post and see if you can see any signs whatsoever from it, I wasn't there and only going on what you have put. Now hiding behind engineering/statistical speak as distraction or camouflage doesn't work given you have already made your previous post. We are very unlikely to fully agree on this and as we will never meet in real life and extremely unlikely to be on the same parts of roads at the same time we can leave this as agreeing to disagree. You seem like a decent person generally so I always wish you good luck.

Entirely up to you of course but I think it would help you for you to honestly address what happened, and did not, happen and this will help you going forward and with any decisions you make. You was there and we were not but, as previously in a video, what you have written might suggest an economy with full acceptance. You are concentrating on a possible scenario that did not happen, the best outcome is that you learn from this experience. For a matter of your confidence too I suggest looking at getting further driver training and I say this as a driver that was never that good at driving, even after further training, but got a little better to previously. I wish you luck with whatever you decide.

If that is the case then get shot of them as soon as possible be realistic and in your mind write-off all value that way what ever you get for them will be a bonus. The longer you hold on to them the more you are throwing good money, and emotions, after bad, the sooner they go the more you will save of money and emotions and the more of the rest of your life will be free from the burdens. I had well over 30 years of running "classics" and the reward to expense demised rapidly and sped up the longer it went on. I wish I had only spent €3k in per year, on one car let alone 2. 😄 You have had the experience, sometimes pleasure, but that has passed so you need to move on sooner than later otherwise your two cars will get like many others that just sit in some sort of storage and unused but the owners refuse to pass them on to others that might enjoy them more and the cars just rust and deteriorate away to a state where no one wants them or beyond economic repair or restoration.

Fair enough. You didn't say what year the car is so I don't know which manual would apply but did put they are not always great and get worse the newer the car. Getting good detail guides with good visuals from people working on the same model with the same systems , components and parts I find very difficult, there are some excellent example about but the majority are not great or even very poor quality or at least partly wrong. But a good idea to ask here from actual owners and users of the model, baring in mind the number of variances there can be and this being a UK based site so non-UK cars can vary in ways unknown to many regular posters. Also bear in mind there are many other viewers to the thread that do not post but looking for information and for them many times consulting the car's 'Owner's Manual' may often be a very good basis for a solution - but as always each to there own. Sorry it wasn't meant to be a snarky comment just not well written, I was more concerned if there was an issue with the front bulbs, front bulbs could have meant more than just a broken (faulty, blown) light bulb and if you were changing to different types of bulbs this can bring issues which perhaps we could have warned or advised you about to avoid more issues. But as you are fully sorted now that is good. Again sorry about the poor wording (perhaps this is why I can get along more with the VWŠkoda car manuals).

Yeah window down a bit might confuse the ever demanding thick as computer system(s). Rather than referring to Dr Google when things aren't well best is prior to activity RTM (read the manual) for disconnecting and reconnect battery and any resets, it's not against any law to do so and contrary what what some seem to think won't affect your manliness. True the VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' Is not always well written or explained and has errors and omissions but usually a good basis at least. I would be more concerned about the need, or is it a want, to change the front light bulbs.

Disconnecting the battery is fine, you are advised by VW to do it if the car isn't to be used for x-weeks to save the battery going flat, but it is best to read the car's 'Owner's Manual' first before doing so to confirm the procedure and what might be needed to be reset after battery reconnection. Usually if you have all the windows and sunroof are closed before disconnecting the battery then the only item that seems to need reset is the time of day clock. Did you have any of the windows down or partially down before you disconnected the battery? Do the reset procedure as per your car's 'Owner's Manual' and then as already suggested reset any menu options as required and report back. Good luck.

Hi, welcome Mark. If you've not already seen it on this site there's an Octavia section including a Mk3 and 'Guides' and 'Projects' forums. Good luck. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

You can go 0w-30 or 5w-30, or 0w-40 or 5w-40 but don't get too hung up on the figures (even the VW ones) a good oil is a good oil and that's what you want. Longlife is more of a marketing and sales term and description. In my wife's 2015, 1.2 TSI (90PS, CJZC) I put 5w-30 but we're in the mild weather East Midlands/Anglian area not "the frozen north". I use Millers Oil's EE Performance (C3 5w-30) as they're a British blender (Brighouse, West Yorkshire) and you can ring them and talk to them and/or look at their website with "Which oil" oil finder, plus of course I have previously used their oils and found them to be good. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/ I can also recommend Mann oil filters. - https://www.mann-filter.com/uk-en/catalogue.html Car oils always bring out lots of personal preferences and beliefs but if you follow VW's specifications and change the oil and filter when required you will cover normal use and expectations, whether you think VW will care about the engine lasting as long as possible and don't have commercial interests in oil manufacturers is up to you but that is not to say that those oils are not good oils just that you might be able to do a (little?) bit better depending on your car use and your expectations. Good luck with whatever you chose and do.

I think the German engineers and their German ways of specifications think differently to us in the UK so for us to try to interpret what they might be thinking or actual mean with the restricted information they give is very difficult and perilous, just be grateful they put the steering wheel on right for us and don't expect too many more concessions. The Japanese drive on the left like we do and like British stuff including when we used to make cars.

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it among other sections and forums on this site is the 'Škoda Fabia' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/ Good luck.

Don't worry about it it was just for VW statistics you can leave it as JCB - or if you want to change it then have a search for if VW had a code for Yuasa, someone somewhere on this site put a list of codes but this is all outdated legacy VW stuff (bit like some of the computer parts and programming on VW cars I think). By the fact that the serial number was entered at factory as ten ones (1111111111) shows the system was outdated even at that point of use, the Covid chip shortage highlighted how cheap and old (European) mainstream car manufacturers computer systems can be, probably why the old car manufacturers will disappear or just be a name badge when taken over or merged in with the new Chinese manufacturers.

Intermittent issues are often a right PITA to put up with and diagnosis. As put an internal leak won't show externally. The stop/start might just at the times in the car's drive activity cycle when the clutch (possibly hydraulics) becomes subjectable and/or actual. The issue will perhaps be more noticeable when driving slow in lower gear numbers, also you are probably doing more frequent gear changes then. Now you will know better when it starts to play up you can pump the pedal sooner to save you distress (but not annoyance). IIRC the clutch hydraulic is off(?) the brakes hydraulics, the clutch slave cylinder being another bit of wunderbar fantastic-plastic - and the gearbox is as old as the hills in design, it certainly feels a bit basic which it's always a bad thing, so getting the revs right for changes and double de-clutching may help and for the higher gear numbers. Do you notice any change in brake pedal feel at these times too?

I think you may be right that the pressures will, at least partly, be to do with stretching the miles-per-gallon. For decades the sizes of wheels and tyres has been about fashion, marketing and sales over practicality and need. Some are ridiculous sizes but that's fashion, and possibly machoism.

There have been more recent threads with owners needing parts, mainly non-UK, so you and they may have some luck. It's good that you have come to this decision if your enthusiasm has gone, there are so many many classic cars rusting away where the owners just won't let the car or its bits go on to serve a better purpose. Original parts are often so, so much better than modern made parts, that if you can get those parts too, and many old parts can be cleaned and lubricated, refurbished or reconditioned to last many more years of good use (unlike some modern made parts where it can be months, days, hours, minutes or crap straight out of the box or bag). You could also look at posting in the 'Marketplace' section of the site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/37-marketplace/ Good luck.

If they're doing any work on the cars on the road like oil changes, using chemicals, not correctly disposing of waste products then going the (council?) environmental route may be more successful and perhaps quicker, Al Capone type of angle. Might also cover if the home can be used as this type of business but I don't know and the toerags will say it's unpaid work for family and friends then I think you will have to prove nuisance from this. Good luck.

This is the British motor trade (and other British companies and trades) for you and has been for many years. Marshalls is a brand of Constellation Automotive Group along with British Car Auctions, webuyanycar and Cinch. Nip over to Rockingham Speedway (and Entertainment Complex) to see a couple of the high-ups playground, well originally anyway, then reality set in and perhaps the Chinese cars really landed on our shores. https://www.constellationautomotive.com/our-brands Short termism (and greed) with short sightedness has reduced the trade so much over the years (and decades). I wonder, if Marshall is still around then, what Chinese brand(s) will be at the Bedford Road Marshall when the VWŠkoda contract is up or the brand or VW 'change' in the UK/Europe. I've feeling, don't know, that perhaps not enough 'mechanics/technicians' are around now or will be trained later to cover electric cars certainly for European (and American) brands of vehicles, ICE vehicles won't fair greatly either. Never mind, soon be Xmas. 😁

Hi, welcome.

Always plenty to fix or service, maintain on a VW product, whether you want or like to or not, an interest in computers also helps given German marques enjoying overcomplexity. If you have not already seen them Octavia specific forums for you - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ Skoda Octavia Guides forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/175-skoda-octavia-guides/ Octavia projects forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/207-octavia-projects/ Good luck.

Dave, German engineering has been greatly overrated from the end of last century onwards, lots of Mk3 Fabia, at least, have noises from the underside, some owners have changed some parts with success whilst others change lots of parts over time at great expense and still have noise(s). My wife's 2015 Fabia has a very noticeable clunk/clonk from about 6 years old, that was after the two front dampers had to be changed (and one of the new ones was "misting" within 11 months (2-year warranty), still on the car now and still a MoT advisory. I (luckily) don't drive the car very often but last winter when it was very cold I couldn't believe how loud the noise was, and I'm used to 20-50 year old cars' suspensions, all better than the 9 year old VW product! As put you do need to check your suspension is in reasonable condition (for a VWŠkoda Fabia of the age) and of course safe. Drop links and other bushes are favourite to replace, dampers or springs assemblies are also possibilities, other causes of course (exhaust, other). My wife's car has been through 4 MoTs since the noise started, one with VWŠkoda Dealership, another with an independent and two with a decent old-fashioned garage (they don't work weekends, imagine trying to explain that to an under-50!) and I ask them to check the suspension for parts that need changing sooner rather than later, they don't use the same dampers that the VWŠkoda Dealership use as they so short-lived.

Probably just a coincidence, Fabia Mk3 wipers having a mind of their own is not unknown, I think the factory 'grease' was the cause in my wife's 2015 Fabia case. Have a look at the following, hope it helps. -

That oil is not expensive from the UK supplier, in fact a low price that would cause concern for its actual quality (perhaps it's the exchange rate from Euro to GBP). 1500km is 930 miles per year, that's more of a static museum display piece than a moving car. Provided the engine oil gets fully warmed the few times T's Felicia is actually driven then the oil coming out at the 2-year change could probably easily be used for D.F's Felicia annual use, recycling so price of P&P only, a real bargain!

Hi, welcome. It depends which VWŠkoda mode (and its age, prior use, engine, gearbox) that you got as to how it will compare with the VW-SEAT Leon but in many ways they will be very similar as they share VW/VAG parts and design. Plenty of specific and general information, advice and experience on the various models and generally on this site have a look at the model and age specific forum(s) and the more general forums. Good luck.

Hi, welcome. This has been covered on here before so try a search (sorry, I've not got time to look for you now) and there's at least one good video on this on YT, exactly model and engine size doesn't matter, the vid I'm think of has a gearbox out of a car. My wife's 2015 Fabia (5-speed) has 70+k-miles on it with lots of short journeys use so lots of gear changes and the linkages don't need resetting or adjusting are you sure that's what's required in your case(?). Good luck.

See the (skimpy) VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' for your model and year (or VIN), 'Driver assist systems' - 'Lane assist' - 'Functionality' - "Display Display example in black and white display." - (As it's an European car manufacturer in this example the steering wheel appears to be on the left). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models