pyromorph

Just an update on this issue for anyone coming back to this in the future.. None of the symptoms I've detailed in the earlier posts have anything to do with the synchro angle. Most are to do with boost leaks. That said, some observations about adjusting the synchro angle. The value sat at 0 with a regular flickering to -0.6 and back. I decided to see if I can get it closer to 0 and found it's REALLY difficult to split that difference. After an hour messing with the adjustment on the cam/sprocket I ended up with values all over the place and at one point the car wouldn't start and took a while to get it back to where I started. I ended up with 0 flickering to +0.6 and back. With a 30cm 1/2" ratchet, if you feel the cam move then it's too much. I took to leaning on the ratchet and hoping I moved it. If anyone attempts it I strongly advise checking out the youtube videos and making sure you put some reference marks on the cam bolt/sprockets, if I hadn't I'd be in serious trouble and would need to reset the timing (as you would with replacing the cam belt with locking tools). Not sure if anyone else has managed to get the timing bang on. I suspect this is purely an exercise in "can it be done" rather than "is it worth it" Thanks, Phil.

Thanks, I've ordered one as they are not too expensive.

I'm in the process of diagnosing various turbo related issues after I got my original Borg Warner (KKK) turbo refurbished (no upgrades, just a refurb). There's reasonable turbo lag, and I've adjusted the actuator (post install) and can't seem to get the setting right.. seems to be way to far down the actuator... .. anyway... I've been doing some vacuum tests on the vacuum lines and found that the EGR / Anti Shudder / the vacuum ball thingy all hold vacuum no problem.. the turbo actuator on the other hand has no vacuum. I've tested the pipe from the vacuum distribution box to the turbo by disconnecting from the turbo and blocking off.. then vacuum test from the box end and it builds vacuum and holds.. so the pipe is good. If I connect the vacuum tester "directly" to the turbo actuator I get no vacuum. Not a bit. Now, when the car is running you can see the actuator moving a bit but I don't think the travel is far enough (hence me testing the vacuum) My question is: Has anyone had the turbo actuator itself fail? Thanks, Phil.

It's a "stock" map, but many years ago I adjusted the EGR map (driven by MAF) so it "disabled" the EGR. I left the EGR un-blanked. Thanks, Phil.

Thanks for the link, ironically I've had a reasonable amount of hardware for my other project car (MK5 Golf 4Motion) from Darkside, but never spotted that article. Update: I've found that the massive smoke was caused by a boost leak from the lower intercooler hose that I replaced a few weeks back. It looks like the retaining clip had come out of it's "track" on the topside, but in the track on the bottom. The hose appears to try and blow itself out of the intercooler housing but only at the topside of the hose (only visible when looking at it from above). The bottom of the hose is retained correctly. I resolved the issue and then jubilee/cable tied it. It's not coming loose again. I've cleaned my MAF. Next step is checking the syncro timing.

My 2003 vRS is currently on it's second exhaust. The Skoda original has long gone, and I'm currently running a Bosal downpipe (with Cat) and some mickey mouse mid/back box. I've been unhappy with it since I put it on and it's development a few rust holes recently (on its last legs). Skoda can no longer supply the downpipe (with Cat) but I can get mid section and backbox for about £480 ish (which is pretty pricey) Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced alternative? I'm not looking for decat or performance.. I just want something nice and quiet Thanks,

Thanks. Interestingly this isn't a hybrid or modified setup. The replacement core was because they had one in stock and it was quicker than repairing the old core (bearings on the way out). It did come with a new actuator installed.

Thanks for the info, very useful. The good graphs and descriptions are a very good reference. Thanks.

I did, and it was like flattening/turning off the boost. That said, the MAF I replaced a long time ago (12 years ish) with a New Bosch one.. so It could be on its way out or it might need a clean. I'll take a look at the weekend.

Recently I had my turbo (Borg Warner/KKK) refurbished (core was replaced) on my 2003 (pre face lift) vRS. When I re-fitted it I found that there was no boost at all, and after taking a look at VCDS logs I found negative deviation errors and a N75 duty cycle that was screaming "more boost please". I found a way to adjust the actuator setting in situ, but I have to do it by feel. Several test runs and adjustments later I managed to get the duty cycle off its end stop but I just can't quite get it spot on. On a previous run I ended up with it overboosting, and I've managed to dial it back a bit.. but the boost actual is either tracking under specified (low down in the revs) or running higher (higher up the revs) How sensitive is the actuator adjustment? Are we talking fractions of a turn between good and bad? I've attached a spreadsheet with a couple of runs (VCDS logs). Yellow highlighted sections are 100% throttle 3rd gear WOT. 2023-02-26 - overboost condition at the end of the last run 2023-03-15 - after adjustment still looks like it's running away (req: 2340 / actual >2500) Thanks in advance, Phil. 2023-03 N75 adjustment logs.xlsx

My 2003 pre-face lift vrs is getting old and over the last couple of years I've been on a never ending fix/spend/fix cycle to resolve various issues. I'm currently trying to resolve a black smoke, over-fuelling, and mpg loss (currently down by 15mpg.. running between 30 and 40mpg on runs that normally give me above 50) issue. Not so long ago I replaced the cam belt and didn't check the timing. I'd like to rule out bad cam sensor/bad timing. I've never done a "happy" synchro log via VCDS, so I would appreciate it if someone who has could tell me if the attached logs are good or if that 0.0 / -0.6 is a sign that either the sensor or the timing is wrong. Thanks, Phil. 2023-03-15 Synchro logs.xlsx

@caddyman26 Did you end up buying one of these? If so, how much what is?

I've recently done the rear axle on my Fabia 2003 vRS, and I'm not impressed with the Por-15. Albeit the unopened tins/cans where many years old, I found that the black top coat didn't bind to the etch-primer even through the instructions say it would. The Por-15 top coat is like hammerite, but thinner. I did 3 - 4 coats and find the surface quite hard, but once you chip it, it peels away from the etch primer. May have needed an undercoat before the top coat.

Thanks for this thread, there is no way I'd have diagnosed this one as being a faulty fuse. I've a 2003 Fabia vRS, dropped the rear axle off to replace the bushes, battery went flat and so I removed and charged. When I refitted everything back together I got two rear sensor faults. I replaced the passenger rear wheel bearing (It was stuffed anyway) and ABS sensor and then got the additional ABS Return Flow Pump fault. Quick search, found this thread and guess what... crack in Fuse 6. Replaced with a new fuse and it looks all good for the moment. Thanks everyone for sharing on this thread, saved me time and money.

Did you run any of that behind the tray on the inside edge where the original seal is? If you've applied the sealant on the outside but it doesn't go around the edge of the tray and up the back, that might be why you've got a leak. It's going to be a pig to remove the sealant (if it's decent stuff). I'd also recommend (if you do it again) to use IPA to clean the door panel and left to dry before applying the sealant just in case you've got bonding issues. Also, you mentioned yours was riveted. Have you replaced them with self-tapping screws?

I'm interested in what you did when you resealed the auxillary tray? When I've had to reseal I've pulled the tray gently away and applied insane amounts of sealant in the gap, in one pass, from over half way up one side of the tray, down, across the bottom and up the other side. I've also made sure that there is enough sealant to fill past the bolt holes. When I tighten the bolts up, I do so slowly a few turns and then the next one. Sealant squishes out everywhere (including the bolt holes).. By the time I've finished I've had to wipe away almost a quarter of a tube. I've then left it two days with no water (covered the car, did it in summer).

Sometimes adding the sealant to the old can catch you out. I've had to re-apply several times and found clearing as much of the old sealant away (seriously tedious) helps. Last lot of sealant I used was everbuild forever clear and due to putting almost 2/3rd of the tube on the door I had to leave the car two days to cure. I bought one of those cheap car covers and put it over the car so if it rained, it wouldn't go on/in the doors. I also investigated using some Aquarium grade sealant but found that they are all designed to be under water with no exposure to the air, so never actually tried any. The other gotcha I've had is with aftermarket speakers. I fitted some Focal speakers in the front, and made an MDF spacer. I used spire clips on the door and screwed through the speaker mounting holes, mdf spacer and then through the clips. Water would run down the back of the infamous auxiliary tray onto the points/tips of the screws, travel down the screw through the tray into the MDF spacer, which acted like a sponge, and then drained into the car. I understand, for assembly purposes, why VAG designed the door that way, but it's an awful design if you need to make any repairs. Wait till you start getting central locking issues (motor/microswitch) and have to strip it all down again... Arrgh. I still have my Fabia vRS MK1 (164K so far) and the central locking on the drivers side is going again (2nd time). I'm choosing to live with it as I can't bare to go through stripping the door down and resealing it again.... The Golf MK5 design is far better. You can remove the outer door skin to give you access to the central locking, window winder etc.. and the auxiliary tray is limited to the window winder mechanism.

I used everbuild forever clear/white. Wore gloves when applying and I left for 48 hours without it getting wet. I bought one of those cheap car covers that covered the top of the car. The cover reaches half way down the door so no water can run down the windows into the door skin.

Thank you all for the information. I'll have a think about getting a respray. The problem is, I've been down this route before and had a bad experience. I had a rear shunt and it cracked my bumper. I also had a few dings in one door and excessive stone chips on the bonnet.. I got the rear bumper repaired and sprayed, the door sorted sprayed and the bonnet as well.. It was only when the sun hit the car I realised that the paint shop had matched the paint on the bumber and then used the same paint to spray the door and bonnet. End result was they had faded the bonnet and the door for me.... To make it worse it was a cash deal through an ex-mecahnic neighbour, a mistake I won't repeat. Any way, I might think about pulling the spoiler off and re-laquering it. Thanks, Phil.

Hi, I'm after some advice. I've got a metallic red pre face-lift Fabia MK I vRS (53 plate). I've got issues with the plastics fading at a faster rate than the metals, but the rear spoiler is just getting on my nerves. I can cut back with 3M Fine Compound Perfect it III , but I'm having problems finding something to protect it afterwards. I'm cutting it back once a year, and I'm concerned that I'm going to run out of paint on the spoiler. As you can see by the picture, it's quite a lot of red. I've tried various polishes over the top. My current attempt is with Turtle Wax Metal Wax ( which mentions it uses polimers ). Unforetunely it does not appear to work for very long. I might get a couple of months at the outside, before the surface 'oxidises' and fades again. Can anyone recommend something that might seal the surface, perhaps something a little more hard wearing? Thanks. Phil.

Just in case anyone else reads this and decides they want to attempt to change the track rod on a Fabia.. specfically a MK1 vRS, it's worth taking a look at the pictures below. I needed to replace the track rod, and track rod end on the passenger side. There is very little clearance to get in and remove the metal tie on the original gater ( inside, closest to steering rack ), when entering via wheel arch. It's also very difficult to get purchase when crimping the replacement metal tie that you get with most track rod kits. I used the following tool for the CVJ metal clip: http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1&strParents=0%2C0&CAT_ID=&P_ID=3690 I had to hacksaw the old clip off. I recommend that you enter through the bonnet. You'll need to remove: Engine Cover, Battery, Maf Sensor wiring loom connector, Air box lid, Air box to inlet manifold air feed pipe ( has two large metal clips that require a decent pair of pliers of suitable clamp tool.. a cheaper version of this: http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?strParents=0&CAT_ID=&P_ID=21871 ) Air box to front of bonnet air feed ( small screw and it'll pop off with a bit of a wiggle ) Once you've got everything out of the way, a ladder is useful to get into the engine bay ( I had the car jacked up ). I had to cut my track rod with an angle grinder to get the track rod end off.. it was jammed up tight. I also used one of those track rod tools as mentioned previously in this thread... well worth buying.

Well, I swapped the float resistor feed around, still no joy. Turns out, after a bit of swimming through diesel, that the float on the replacement pump is not strong enough to defeat the diesel. If you put the pump into a bowl and fill it up with water, the float will rise. If you the pump into the tank, the float sits almost on the bottom. I also confirmed that the resistance goes between 60 ohms to 300 ohms. Obviously it depends on which way around you have your multimeter. I had my meter wired up so 60 ohms was float down ( empty ). The replacement pump only ever read around 90 ohms in the tank, which is just inside the red zone on the fuel gauge. I've decided to send the replacement pump back, save up and buy an OEM. I noticed the original pump was much better built than the Pierburg. Thanks, Phil.

I've just replacement the fuel tank lift pump on my 2003 vRS. The original was starting to make funny noises so I though it best to replace it. The existing pump was labelled: 6Q0 919 050 ( not the 050 A which is on the later models ), so I replaced it with a Pierburg 7.02701.09.0 from misterauto. Problem is, the fuel gauge doesn't want to leave the red area ( low fuel warning light on ). The tank is full. I've replaced the pump with the original and you can see the fuel level rise as the float lifts ( takes a while ). The Pierburg just doesn't play ball. The pump itself is fine, taken the car for a spirited drive, no issues. Anyone had similar issues with replacements? Thanks, Phil.

Thanks for the feedback. Not looking forward to drilling out the vRS bushes, the don't look like they'll come out as easily as standard ones... Thanks. Phil.

I've got a 53 plate Fabia vRS ( pre face-lift ) and trying desperately to sort out some knocking noises I have when throttling up. I drop the rear axle off to find the bushes are the same part number as the ones I inteded to put on.. Has anyone ever had to replace the vRS bushes on the rear axle with new vRS bushes? Thanks, Phil