Forty45
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Posts posted by Forty45
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I tried again recently but didn't manage it. I have concluded the bottom doesn't come off until the top is removed with it. There is no way the bottom prises off - there are just too many overlapping clips there to keep released at the same time. I managed to get the push pins out, but that didn't make a huge difference to how clipped together the assembly felt.
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On 05/01/2021 at 05:51, SmileyWalsh said:
Bobbycas, how did you go? What was the process for removing the front lower part? About to do mine if I can get it removed easily.
Thread revival time.
Did you manage to remove the lower bumper, and if so can you explain how please?
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https://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/threads/amundsen-infotainment-repair.14382/post-177911
There is a list of repairers in this post at #31.
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Surely if the armrest came forward more it would prevent getting hold of the handbrake?
I find with it fully pushed back the padding still contacts my wrist/forearm when using the handbrake. I think it should have been made to be higher.
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The kits (or individual pieces ) are no longer available. Not been made for many years.
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On 23/07/2022 at 09:10, Breezy_Pete said:
Hold pulley still, put a tool on the central axle nut and see if there's play with attempted rotation.
I've checked it and everything is tight and no play. I'll just see how it goes and if it gets worse investigate further. Leaving the a/c on isn't a problem in this weather 🌞
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1 hour ago, Austin 7 said:
Hi
I am going to throw in an odbball suggestion for elimination purposes.
I once had an odd tapping noise from under the car (1.4 TSi 2012) on the passenger side, audible at idle.
It turned out to be the fairly rigid plastic fuel lines (flow and return) between engine and rear tank. For the front part of their length they run inside a hollow rectangular box section. Although Skoda fitted foam inserts in the factory, they weren't quite enough to prevent contact between the lines and the underbody. I guess the pulsating fuel flow (which depends on revs and engine load) makes the pipes vibrate. A bit more squishy foam stuffed in and the noise was gone.
Thanks for the suggestion. The noise is on the driver's side and sounds to be coming from the pedal box area or where the fuse box is - and I've checked in that.
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8 hours ago, J.R. said:
The central spline can rip out, the shear plate can be replaced and its available from Polish E-bay sellers, I have replaced mine which I damaged by recharging the aircon with the cylinder inverted at too fast a rate.
When I have had the hubs strip on a MK2 it made a tinkling noise like breaking glass but with the aircon on, I now have a noise like you with the aircon off, I will decribe it and why I think it could be the bearing the pulley runs on.
For expediency when I bought a shear plate I fitted it to an old pulley assembly which had the threaded fasteners as my pulley was rivetted, that pulley and its bearing had done a very high mileage, now I get a whuum-whuum-whuum cyclical droning noise at low engine revs with the aircon off no noise with AC on and it works perfectly, the shear plate, fixings and hub are all intact, its a noisy bearing which gets quieter when under load as it cannot then resonate, another job to be put off till its cooler.
The job is simple if the wheel, wheelarch liner and intermediate plastic cover is removed, access is then good, no puller needed just large circlip pliers, the central nut can be difficult to remove if the shear plate is broken and you risk bending the pump shaft, if intact its easy.
Use Loctite bearing fit on the splines of the drive hub, I have had a couple strip in service.
Cheers. Mine is on 40k. The noise is like a slowish tapping of a bolt on a hollow panel on the underside of the car - as if the exhaust was knocking something. As soon as you move off it goes until you stop when it returns. It also takes a little while to start up when the engine is cold. So it doesn't sound like what you have, but once I'm able to get to the pulley area I'll report further. Is yours a PXE14 with the same part number as mine?
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30 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:
Hold pulley still, put a tool on the central axle nut and see if there's play with attempted rotation.
Would I need the belt off when doing that?
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18 minutes ago, Urrell said:
That type of compressor has no clutch, it rotates all the time with the swash plate angle acting on the pistons to give the flow required through the compressor.
Thanks for confirming what I thought might be the case.
2 minutes ago, Forty45 said:I haven't, but just took this and they don't look loose.
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1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:
Have you checked the 3 Torx screws that hold shear plate to pulley?
I haven't, but just took this and they don't look loose.
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The rattle (sounds like piece of metal tapping against the car underbody) is on a 2012 Yeti 1.2. The noise starts when the air con is turned off and engine is idling. The aircon has been recharged recently and works fine otherwise
The compressor is a Sanden PXE14 (part 5N0820803G). When I searched for I found the data sheet identifying different Sanden compressors, and the diagram of PXE14 refers to "no clutch" on the pulley.
I've read posts where the compressor clutch pulley has been identified as the source of a rattle and either a new clutch hub or complete clutch pulley has cured it. However these aren't for the "G" model compressor.
The clutch hub or complete clutch pulley for my model is not listed on eBay or Amazon etc - it's here, https://shop.acauto.pl/product-eng-49488-Clutch-Hubs-AC-5SD02-CH.html
https://shop.acauto.pl/product-eng-49654-Clutch-kit-AC-6SD10-CH.html
and more expensive than what other people have paid for the parts for their repair.
I don't want to buy a part if it might not be the cause of the noise - any views please?If the pulley is "no clutch", can it have a rattling clutch?
Also, does anyone know how to remove this pulley? I've watched a YouTube of one being stripped on a bench, but the nuts and bolts had already been undone and it was in German. The part number can be found with many different letters at the end, but some letters are much less common despite the pulleys looking very similar.
Can the pulley be held in place with a Boa strap wrench while undoing the nut?
Is a flywheel puller needed?
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Yes, I have this now and it has happened before, but mine is the Amundsen+. I don't know what causes it, but I think it could be due to the quality of the map software used not being very good. My map is V12.
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That doesn't sound good. The flexi looks a pain to move. You may have to remove to tailgate plastic and/or the roof lining to get to the wires. Good luck.
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Interesting you say that. Electrics isn't something I know much about, but some of the car diagnostic guys on you tube make it look so easy.
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My car doesn't have the removable lamp. I concluded the boot latch had failed (not from any sound diagnosis as I couldn't get consistent readings) and replaced it. After I ordered it (AliExpress) I noticed the light would come on some times, that seemed due to the lamp connector not making the best connection, so that could have been the cause all along. Anyway, new latch and it all works again. I replaced the lamp with a 6 LED unit which makes a huge difference.
Getting the plastic off to replace the latch is a real challenge though. Had to get the special VW plastic wedge to assist doing that.
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Sorry if I've misinformed, or maybe I'm remembering the wrong end! Anyway, here is a video of how to do it.
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Rear interior lamps are removed by prising from the bonnet end. Use a plastic tool and don't dig too deep into it. Keep trying until you find it lifting out
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Glove is as Rear, but 31mm.
For the boot, this is way brighter https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001883251655.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.74ef4c4dze5Z3Z you do need to file/shave a little plastic off the trim opening to fit.
I've used these on a 2012 fine.
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I also have a non working boot light.
I've read this and the post on Briskoda and carried out some tests.
1- removed the bulb light and checked it lit.
2- confirmed the glove box light illuminates.
3 - found there is almost 12v on the red/blue wire side of the bulb holder and nearly 0v on the other (brown/blue) side. This is not by probing the wire into the socket, but touching the metal in the bulb holder. I assume this confirms the diode is OK.
4 - the Maxidot does not show the tailgate as "open". I attached a wire to the brown/blue side of the holder and grounded it. This caused the Maxidot to show the tailgate as "open" regardless of it being open or shut.
Am I correct in thinking the results above point to the tailgate lock being open circuit (possibly due to a microswitch failing)?
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Hi everyone, my wife has been after a Yeti for some time, so when our Meriva had electrical issues which would have been v. expensive to fix a few weeks ago we decided to get a Yeti 1.2 Urban 2012.
It's nice to drive, a bit higher seating position than we're used to, and quieter.
Bottom part of bumper removal
in Skoda Yeti
Posted
I want to fit mesh in the lower grille as is shown in this post
I asked one of the posters who'd done it how he got the grille off and got this;
'I'll try to help, but my recollection of what I did is all a bit hazy, its a while ago, and I no longer have my Yeti to look at and check (only sold it three months ago, as it happens).
As far as the barbs go, I reckon that I would have used a thin flat bladed screwdriver to press the barbed section of the clip down, to allow it to slip backwards through the hole. I'm fairly sure I would have done this one at a time, working from one end.
Anything further than that, I'm sorry, but I doubt I will be able to help."
Which was no help really.
When it is warmer I'm going to take the wheelarch liners off and see if I can dismantle from behind the bumper. I suspect the car needs to be on front jacks or ramps to get enough access, or the whole front end needs to be removed 🤷