Forty45

If you want to remove the white inside A trim, then just prise it away gently so you can get your fingers under it and then pull firmly. It's clipped in place, but unlikely to break unless you go stupid with it.

Having the light in the "on" position helps when pushing the metal clip in to release it from the socket.

The AliExpress one I've linked to above arrived within a week from China. I fitted it today and now have sat nav again.😀 A couple of issues encountered; 1 - the leads were shorter than on the original one. To overcome this I had to free the cables from the 2 clips holding them to the body. This was straightforward with the one behind the plastic internal trim panel on the passenger side of the car by the tailgate (you have to remove it to get between the headlining and roof). The other cable clip is on the roof and not easy to pull out. You have to grasp the cables either side of the clip and push the cables away from the roof to get it released, taking care to not damage the headlining. 2 - the cables (4 - only needed 3 as GSM not installed on my car) only have 1 cable which has a connector matching the colour of the car's connectors. Not a big issue as the cables are labelled with what they are for. So for £24 - half the cost of a used one on eBay (which because of their age is likely to be well on it's way to failing) - I've got a new one, which from a dealer would be around £200!

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwzRfSI Has anyone bought one of these? I need to do something about ours - the sat nav has been telling me I'm in the sea for a long time, and having just removed the unit from the car and taken it apart there is corrosion on the circuit boards. I've been using a TomTom, so getting the sat nav back isn't a major issue, but when I undid the 6 screws holding the underside plate to the upper plastic I found 3 of them were no longer doing anything as the screw hole turrets had broken off. I doubt it won't will be long before it all falls apart and there will be water ingress etc.

I want to fit mesh in the lower grille as is shown in this post I asked one of the posters who'd done it how he got the grille off and got this; 'I'll try to help, but my recollection of what I did is all a bit hazy, its a while ago, and I no longer have my Yeti to look at and check (only sold it three months ago, as it happens). As far as the barbs go, I reckon that I would have used a thin flat bladed screwdriver to press the barbed section of the clip down, to allow it to slip backwards through the hole. I'm fairly sure I would have done this one at a time, working from one end. Anything further than that, I'm sorry, but I doubt I will be able to help." Which was no help really. When it is warmer I'm going to take the wheelarch liners off and see if I can dismantle from behind the bumper. I suspect the car needs to be on front jacks or ramps to get enough access, or the whole front end needs to be removed 🤷

I tried again recently but didn't manage it. I have concluded the bottom doesn't come off until the top is removed with it. There is no way the bottom prises off - there are just too many overlapping clips there to keep released at the same time. I managed to get the push pins out, but that didn't make a huge difference to how clipped together the assembly felt.

Thread revival time. Did you manage to remove the lower bumper, and if so can you explain how please?

https://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/threads/amundsen-infotainment-repair.14382/post-177911 There is a list of repairers in this post at #31.

Surely if the armrest came forward more it would prevent getting hold of the handbrake? I find with it fully pushed back the padding still contacts my wrist/forearm when using the handbrake. I think it should have been made to be higher.

The kits (or individual pieces ) are no longer available. Not been made for many years.

I've checked it and everything is tight and no play. I'll just see how it goes and if it gets worse investigate further. Leaving the a/c on isn't a problem in this weather 🌞

Thanks for the suggestion. The noise is on the driver's side and sounds to be coming from the pedal box area or where the fuse box is - and I've checked in that.

Cheers. Mine is on 40k. The noise is like a slowish tapping of a bolt on a hollow panel on the underside of the car - as if the exhaust was knocking something. As soon as you move off it goes until you stop when it returns. It also takes a little while to start up when the engine is cold. So it doesn't sound like what you have, but once I'm able to get to the pulley area I'll report further. Is yours a PXE14 with the same part number as mine?

Would I need the belt off when doing that?

Thanks for confirming what I thought might be the case.