Vstorm

Hey JR finally got car running again was the ecu. It would run for 1st startup but not restart once key off anyway the guys who did the ecu where really helpful they programmed with different software and now it starts first time. I only have one fault now fault code 008825 P2279 leak in air intake system mil on at 2036rpm . It smoked a bit under load then went into limp and a high pitch screaming whistling noise high pitch. I cleared codes drove it gently no issue or noise . I would like to test the pcb valve what is the best way to determine illuminate it as I can’t see any leaks on the air inlet side. Im thinking pull pipe off air inlet let it vent and block hole in air inlet drive it up road if fault not there refit it if fault comes back pcb faulty what do you think 🤔 👍 Any advice greatly received I’m hoping if I get that fixed car will finally run properly

Jr you are right car has been a nightmare to try and fix . Fitted new glow plug harness today still getting same fault codes glow plug 1-3-4 open circuit had new plugs loom and timer 😩🤪😜 I think it’s going to drive me mad one weird thing it did while cranking and testing today first few times I cranked no camshaft speed showing on vCDS tried again then I had 105 for camshaft sensor I replaced that with a new Febi one I am wondering if I should have fitted an oe one . I assume ecu needs cam and crank sensor signals to know when to trigger the injectors. The car originally ran well started first turn of key gradually got more difficult to start changed out parts vCDS indicated at fault camshaft sensor , glow plugs , glow plug timer relay, for open circuit on glow plug faults but that one has stayed even after fitting a new loom all the way to the big multi connector under the headlight. I have stripped all the wiring back to the battery continuity checked all wires no breaks chaffs or rubs can be seen.. I have sent the ecu back today I think I’m going to fit that and an ie cam sensor then I’m out if that dosnt fix it . If anyone wants it I’ll be selling as spares or repairs someone more clever than me can probably fix it it’s a nice car to good to break really and had had a load of new parts genuine egr valve, maf sensor cam sensor glow plugs glow plug timer relay and more. I’ll post my outcome after fitting ecu . Thanks

Morning JR I sent my ecu as he wanted to clone the data from it onto the one he was supplying.like you at same time he did egr and dpf delete and remap and transferred the original security code. I will update later with camshaft and engine speed as shown on vCDS.. We determined ecu as swapped with another known hood ecu not coded to my car. It ran for about 5 seconds then stopped because the immobilizer kicks in . but I believe this is a known way to check. I think I am going to send ecu back for him to check he says he can. Thanks simon

Morning JR I sent my ecu as he wanted to clone the data from it onto the one he was supplying.like you at same time he did egr and dpf delete and remap and transferred the original security code. I will update later with camshaft and engine speed as shown on vCDS.. We determined ecu as swapped with another known hood ecu not coded to my car. It ran for about 5 seconds then stopped because the immobilizer kicks in . but I believe this is a known way to check. I think I am going to send ecu back for him to check he says he can. Thanks simon

Thanks for the reply JR. I have monitored the cranking speed and checked camshaft speed and engine speed are both visible battery is 100 % I had heard of the injectors not firing if engine speed is low. no keys changed . the car ran fine then gradually got worse at starting . Changed camshaft sensor, maf sensor glow plugs glow plug timer relay,pretty much everything 😂 I have changed the ecu it was coded from my original car started 1st time I left it running for 20 mins thought great sorted. switched it off to clear codes tried to start it won’t start that’s where I am am up to now. is there any signals the ecu needs to receive to make the injectors fire I assume it needs camshaft and crank sensor signals they appear to be working on vCDS any others or anything else I should be testing . thanks again 😁

Hi everyone, after some help please still struggling with my Skoda. I tacked the fault down I think . the injectors are not pulsing . I have tested all wiring back to ecu and as far as I can tell it’s all good. I have the 5 pin injector harness where the screw on connector goes. I have 2.5 volts on the brown centre wire at the plug, then the same at each of the brown wires on the injector plugs. I put a noid light in one of the injectors plugs and got some one to crank it it pulsed for a few seconds . I thought happy days then did the rest no pulse went back to the one that did no pulse. Also viewed injectors in Vcds values are 0.0 when cranking no change I’m thinking ecu as I think that is what controls the injectors as they go straight to the ecu as far as I can tell. car starts momentarily on easy start then stops once easy start is used up. which is why I think it’s fuel. finally not sure if this relevant to the not starting . The only fault vCDS is logging after cranking is I have glow plug 1-3-4 open circuit I have replaced plugs still faulty pitting glow plug harness in tomorrow.there are no other faults coming up in the control unit .🤷‍♀️ Any thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciated 👍

Hi All I’m getting these fault codes and car cranks but won’t start will start momentarily with easy start. can anyone point me in right direction to diagnose. I’ve tested all the injection and glow plug loom back to fuse box and to ecu for chaffed rubs continuity tested and wiggle all good ?🤷‍♂️ I can’t upload the images of the Vcds screen shot it says file size exceeded ? but the codes are 005732 PO1664 control circuit for PD injectors electrical malfunction mil on other fault stored once In J533 gateway 01314 engine control module 004 no signal/ Communication - Intermittent can anyone help please thanks Ps forgot to say it 2010 2.0tdi BMM engine type

I’ve tried some easy start cars starts but stops as soon as easy start is used up. So im guessing it’s a fuel issue which is why I was asking about the above another little anomaly I’ve notice. i removed thecrekay 100 inventive fuse box engine cranks glow plug light didn’t function steering wheel light and dpf light don’t come on . whenni put relay back in and they’re ignition on and crank dpf lightcsteeribg light and glow plug light blinking but is dosnt start 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ Help 😂

Hi all can anyone tell me what thecrelay in the engine fuse box does says 100 on it . dies it have anything to do with injector power supply ? Mid so any guidance on how to test or by pass it . im running out of ideas might be time to send it to the big breakers yard in the sky ☹️😞

I took ecu out and took back off no water damage ? also ecu tests as oknon Vcds until code drops in thanks

Thanks for the heads up I’ll check out the convience module where is that located ? mine is the 2,0tdi BMM engine. ill put the fully charged battery back on and see what happens I’ll report back 👍 thanks

Hi JR and MIc, thanks for your reply. i notes the engine appeared to be turning fast however when I connected battery charger this morning the amperage was a bit low. in the meantime while the battery is charging I decided to to check the injector loom . I removed rocker cover ping all the wires to the terminals on the round twist connector on the side of the head I also wiggled the wiring continuity still good. I also did ohms resistance all wires show 1ohm . did same on injector terminals continuity on all injectors 1o resistance: ( not sure if injectors should make a circuit when closed) or is circuit broken when the switch opens ? i then checked the twist plug that attaches to the side of the cylinder head and pinged all wires back to the ecu and wiggled loom all good 🤷‍♂️ I’m losing the will to fix it it’s fighting me 😂😂 mom going to reconnect the twist plug no make sure continuity is going through the plug if it is I’ll build it all back up and see what happens I’m out of ideas now. Maybe ecu ? But Vcds shows test results for ecu no faults most of the time until it logged the P1663 . i also don’t understand why dpf light and steering wheel light are on but not showing any fault codes for these in Vcds. Any more thoughts anyone? Thanks I’ll keep the post updated 👍

Hi All, im still having lots of trouble with the Bmm engine 2010 Skoda scout. its has new camshaft sensor, new mass airflow sensor new glow plugs new glow plug timer relay. Was running ok but kept going into limp mode and had poor starting excess cranking . Codes on Vcds open circuit glowplugs 1,2,3,4 this get stored intermittent in fault memory. camshaft sensor intermittent sometimes implausible . At this point the car is still running.so I decided to check the wiring to see if I could sort out the remaining 2 faults (glowplugs and camshaft sensor). i tested new camshaft sensor with a scope working as it should . I stripped back loom to look for chaffs along side of gearbox near starter I pinged out all wiring to the plug behind near side headlamp and shook wiring continuity stayed tested wires for glow plug rail and camshaft wires. Next I tested opposite side of plug pinged out camshaft wires at the ecu shaking wiring still all good . next I tested wires to glow plug relay all pinged out good shaking loom.pinged out the two thin wires from glow plug timer to ecu all good . removed ecu took cover off to check for water damage all good no corrosion board looks good. Now this is when I start to lose it 🤷‍♂️🤣 i re assembled everything put ignition on cleared fault codes tried to start would not cough or try to start cranking no sign of life checked fault codes in ecu no faults stored , tried it a few times 3-4 still not starting still no fault codes ( I noticed steering wheel warning lamp and dpf light on. tried again this time had stored 005731 control circuit for pd injectors P1663 shirt to plus mil on. i squirted in s bit of easy start it started but died suspect injectors not working. Any help please 🙏🤷‍♂️😂 im nearly at my wits end I might be selling it as spares or repairs at this rate it’s to nice a car to break it needs fixing 😂 Any testing / further ways to diagnose advice greatly apppreciated . please note I didn’t check the injector loom when I stripped the loom as I wasn’t having any problems with it. injector loom ? Thanks in advance 👍

JR does the torsion value effect the cam sensor ie if it’s not within range cam sensor gets signal at wrong time. also is there a way I can test it on the plug that’s connected to the sensor to try to isolate if it’s the loom on the car it plugs into or the sensor ? Thanks for your reply torson value is 1.0 btdc at the moment car runs nice just difficult to start excess cranking then store camshaft sensor implausible signal intermittent.

Hi All thought I had it nailed maf egr fault previous found fuse 29 missing which power the maf tested yesterday all was good apart from poor starting and camshaft sensor fault stored . fitted new sensor today still getting same fault excessive cranking to start and same camshaft sensor fault. amyone got any ideas ? 🤷‍♂️ Fyi the torsion value timing is 1.5 btdc should I aim for 0 ? It’s bmm engine in Vcds it say the range st tickover is 4.0 btdc to 2.0 atdc . Wouldvthe torson value effect the camshaft sensor implausible signal intermittent? Thanks 🙏

Will do it seems that the maf has is interconnected wither the glow plug relay and as there was no power to the maf it was seeing it as open circuits for glow plugs I guess it must take an air temp reading to now when to turn glow plugs on and off maybe? also I think the egr excess flow was caused by incorrect signal from maf tone I then ecu to egr opening and closing based on the information the maf wasn’t giving accurately. so the MAFs signals seem to effect quite a few systems if it’s sending wrong /corrupt readings to the ecu. this in turn requests or give wrong info to other components . wish I’d have spotted the missing fuse first 😂 might not have needed the relay. since fitting the maf all the egr readings and maf reading are spot on 👍

Anyone watching this post I thought I would share the final fix . i checked all the glow plug wring pinged it out to relay holder,fuse box power supply and all way back to Ecu all good fitted new . Relay still same. moved on fitted new maf sensor readings 550 mg/str but static dosnt move when engine revved. scratched head some more thought new one might be faulty. So got another reading still same 550 ! so now thinking wiring to maf . stumbled across some info saying that fuse 29 drivers side fuse box below a post powers the maf. checked fuse 28. No fuse fitted wtf 😂🤷‍♂️ Fitted 10amp fuse cleared egr excess flow, glow plug open circuit,and maf implausible signal faulty codes just done extensive road test no faults present all good . Now I have a 2 nd fault not logging codes slight stutter on boost I have graphed it and can see boost drop off I have s high pitch squeal when this happens I think I have a leaking gasket on the pressure side but car now is otherwise spot on. hope this helps someone else . Thanks for the help from the people that replied 😂👍

Hi all can anyone tell me how to test the maf sensor on Vcds on a Skoda scout 2010 Bmm engine ? i assume I’ll have to go into measuring block which group ? and what figures should I be looking for thanks 👍

Nice one that gives me something to work through. ill sort this first then see what happens. regarding the egr excessive air flow and maf implausible signal intermittent . Thanks for the reply I’m having a full day on it tomorrow. Can anyone tell how to check the maf using vcds thanks again 👍

Hi all I’m still trying to fix faults on my Skoda scout 2010 model with BMM engine. car drives great but within a few miles glow plug light comes on. Read codes I get glow plug open circuit 1,2,3 and 4. ive replaced all the glow plugs have no starting issues. It didn’t always put this fault into the fault code memory it’s a bit intermittent. ciukd any one tell me how to check the glow plug relay/ controller. Also how to check and if nesasary replace the glow plug wiring loom. the other 2 faults that get stored in the memory are maf implausible signal. egr excessive air flow. if I clear it will drive ok for 10 mins then logs the same codes again glow plug and elm light come on. i would like to try to diagnose and repair in the right order. should I repair the glow plug loom relay issue first. then I would like to test the wiring and plug off the loom to the maf sensor. to make sure it’s good . Does anyone know how I do this thanks. lastly if I repair fix the maf sensor or wiring issue might this sort the egr excessive airflow fault . It has had a new genuine Skoda egr valve. Does the Egr operate from information given to the ecu from the maf sensor anything else I should be checking ? map sensor ? Thats it I really wanted to get it running Properly as it’s a great car👍😂 no really it is . any help guidance greatly appreciated. i forgot to say the symptoms when fault happens is between 2000-3000rpm when accelerating up the gears you feel a momentary hesitation for a 2nd or two as the revs rise as the Rev needle goes from 2-3k you might feel it 3 time as it pulls through the Rev range. Thanks in advance. ps I have Vcds but I’m still Learning how to use it fully. But if I can does some tests with it happy to try with a bit of guidance thanks simon

Thanks Ken, if I do this does the ecu adopt maf values so the engine runs. If so would I see the mg/str readings improve in Vcds? i also wanted to test the wiring to be sure. im still wondering if maf signal effects thevegr position and in turn the map sensor readings. will give it a try 👍 thanks for the reply

Hi Guys. i hope someone can shed some light on my fault. I have a miss between 2-3rpm rev range. As car pulls you feel the power drop off for about a second each time then it continues to pull again I feel it about 3 time when accelerating from 2000 through to 3000rpm. The car has a new Egr valve fitted. Adaptation was done through basic settings on Vcds, but I noticed as it was cycling on and off it isn’t within the spec it states on the test 100 mg/str minimum difference .when cycling it drops to zero then when comes on again it goes to max 50 mg/str ? I also noticed although it might not be relaxant. Before i did egr adaptation,if you pressed throttle to floor when stationary it would only rev to 3000rpm now it rev to redline ? My other problem I think is the mass airflow sensor it had a new pattern one fitted by last owner but again according to Vcds it’s not in spec . At engine idle on measuring block 10 in Vcds it’s says spec is 180 - 300 mg/str mine shows 20 mg/str (actual) it’s says at max load 900 - 1300mg/str mines only goes to max 55mg/str . i assume block 10 is correct for measuring the maf ? I graphed the manifold absolute pressure when the misfire occurs there was a noticeable drop in pressure each time it missed ? so now everyone is 🤷‍♂️lol 😂😂 including me ha ha. well I could be barking up the wrong tree but my thinking is if the mass air flow it giving wrong signal information to engine control unit it will request/ send wrong information for egr open close position and in turn would this effect the map pressure dropping due to the egr open closing position at wrong time ? Just a theory lol 😂 Any advice help greatly appreciated it runs great apart from above. if I ca get if fixed it will run like new . the only thing I can think that I haven’t done yet is check the plug wires at the maf connection it has 4 wires I think . Anyone know how to test and what the wire colours are . Thanks again if anyone can help. ill update if I get a fix to share it’s the BMM engine 👍

Here’s a few more images

I am having trouble with my recently acquired Skoda scout with Bmm engine. I seemed to have sorted some faults but now get the follow codes see images, and am not sure which way to go to diagnose further. There is another fault no image egr flow excessive. the previous owner fitted Genuine new egr valve fitted. New pattern part maf sensor. I have fitted new glow plugs which has sorted glow plug fault open circuit on all 4 glow plugs. I also set the torsion value as it was out as the car would pull away without stalling unless Rev’s over 1500rpm, since setting the torsion value car will pull away lovely with low revs. I’m sure it hasn’t got all the faults in the screenshots listed I think some are ghost faults caused by what is actually wrong with it. This is what seems to be happening. If I clear all faults cars starts perfect tickover perfect pulls away perfect if you drive steady you wouldn’t notice anything amiss. If you drive it a bit harder and go up the Rev range to 4000rpm for gear changes you feel it stutter at various points as the revs rise and glow plug light blinks and sometimes elm light comes on. Plug back on Vcds and same faults keep coming up clear drive codes drive again within few miles brisk driving logs codes again ? I thought possible stocking variable vanes in turbo housing. I have tested turbo actuator and it’s working correctly and holding vacuum. Also would bad eBay cheap maf sensor be a cause ? Any ideas welcome please don’t want to just keep fitting parts to eliminate things want to get to bottom of fault and fit the bits it needs 😂 i have Vcds but I’m a bit of a novice on it . Hope I can get some help and sort it. i forgot to say on s long road test motorway doing 60mph steady it has. Lack of power and had a pitched whistle noise at a constant tone it didn’t increase with speed I also knocked it into neutral noise carried on when I pulled over noise still there but stopped after about 5 secs when I was ticking over. Not sure if it’s relevant but thought I should mention it. here hoping can get it fixed fingers crossed 🤞