RobMac1

Sorry to dredge up an old thread, I’m experiencing the exact same symptoms as you had. Cold engine, going up a hill and the coil light pops up and the engine goes into limp mode. No problems though if the car is warmed up. Did you replace the brown plug like for like, or did you opt for the grey one that was recommended by Deutsche? I’ll need to have a look what I have fitted this week. 2014 VRS TDI, so sounds like it’s the same as yours. TIA, Rob.

Thanks for the replies 👍🏻 I suppose you’re both right thinking about it, it’s just so disappointing as I love the car but the niggling thought at the back of my mind that the engine could give way does my head in. If I could do the work myself I might have a go at stripping it, I just don’t want to open a can of worms by messing anything else up when I actually need the car to run.

I wouldn’t say that was a long crank?l Not compared to what some of the lads on here are dealing with. Mine can occasionally crank for a good 5/8 seconds and then fire up. It’s never not fired up so it’s down the pecking order for me on jobs that I need to complete. Sorry I can’t be of any other use to you at the moment.

Morning guys, sorry for another oil consumption thread! I’ve been tracking the top ups for the last couple of thousand miles and it’s around 0.8L per 1000 miles give or take, I’m sure I was going around 2.5/3k last summer but wasn’t really tracking it. My DPF is regenerating a lot as well. My mileage is made up mainly of steady cruise controlled motorway miles, prob 90% of it. It’s just ticked over 106k miles. Now with such a high consumption and no outward signs of a leak, scuttle tray is dry. I’m thinking that most likely fault a piston has given way and either needs new rings or a brand new piston assembly. I haven’t got a compression tester to check, but I just have a feeling. My main question is for someone with a bit of engine rebuild knowledge, can you get to the pistons without craning the whole engine out? Just remove the head gasket and lock the cams? Also are there any good garages in the NW that wouldn’t charge an absolute fortune to take this on, or a NW based member with some expertise in stripping these down? I really like the car, would like to keep it for another year or two at least. Don’t mind getting my hands dirty and have a double garage to play in, but also don’t want to trash the timing and completely write it off. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated 👍🏻 Rob.

Thanks Ken, is that not normal from that pipe then? I’ll see about getting a garage to look at that this week if possible. I don’t suppose you have any idea on repair costs if one of the piston rings is blowing?

Evening all. Sorry for what could be a confusing thread. I’ve just had my car up on the ramps as work was quiet tonight. Main reason was because it seems to be regenerating the DPF frequently, my MPG is below 45 even though >80% of my driving is motorway runs and I’m using roughly 800ml oil for every 4000 miles give or take. Total miles to a tank is anywhere between 400 and 450 at a push. Car has just ticked over 100k and is a 2014 184 TDI. I was hoping I might see something obvious that could attribute to an oil leak, but it was pretty clean underneath. Very slight bit of oil on the aux belt lower pulley but nothing to be worried about just yet. I then had a look at the engine with the cover off, had a bit of oil pooling in a screw well that I’m not sure how it would have got there or how long it’s been there (Left side of the engine as you look from the front, just up and left of the first injector). The injectors were quite moist/oily around where they enter the block but again I don’t think it explains how much oil it is going through. I then removed the breather from the turbo that enters the top of the rocker, and that had a bit of an oily film around the inside, I think this would be expected to a point? Also whilst checking it there was a white Smokey sort of exhaust fume coming out of the pipe. Is this normal? Or could the turbo potentially be the source of my oil leak, which is then affecting the DPF? Hopefully someone has a previous experience I can lean on to try and get this fixed, thanks in advance ☺️ IMG_5310.MP4

Sorry to bump an old thread. Has anyone tried this and had success? I occasionally get a slow start and a longer than comfortable crank so have been looking into solutions. I have a MY15 VRs 184. I also find that at idle the engine ‘seeks’ a little bit if you leave it and just listen. Sounds like a slight rev increase (without any indication of the revs moving on the instrument cluster) every few seconds, maybe a slight rev every 4/5 seconds. No idea what could be causing it but I don’t like it 🤔 Any help or direction would be great. Rob.

@varaderoguyyou can literally disable the feature and drive without it, and most people do. It’s not like we’re flying a cargo plane with no assistance systems. And honestly not being funny at all but I’ve managed fine without it for nearly 20 years. I like that it keeps you within the lane, but to beep at a high pitch when you are already physically holding the steering wheel and it’s just a straight road is pretty ridiculous. I then have to give it a quick steer left and right to knock it off. I just thought there might be a setting for the beeper or a way to make it less grumpy. thanks for the reply though 👍🏻

Evening guys. Im wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to have the Lane Assist warning beep delayed from standard (which seems like 10 seconds) to something a little more manageable like 30 seconds. On a straight motorway where there is no need to steer but still having full control of the wheel, the thing keeps beeping and telling me off 😏 I actually quite like the system so if I don’t have to disable it to get rid of the beep that would be great. I have an OBDeleven as well if coding is possible… Rob.

Sorry about the delay, I completely forgot to update the thread. As I expected after changing practically everything else, it was the front near side bearing. I went for an investigative test drive with a master tech and he said straight away 99% that was the issue, he just couldn’t be certain it was front right or left as the drive shaft is hollow and the sound can sometimes travel and appear elsewhere. So with that, Skoda changed the bearing and released me of £500 🤮 that included £100 invest fee, £150 parts, £59 4 wheel alignment and the rest must have been labour. if I had a similar noise again I wouldn’t hesitate in changing it myself. However I’m happy that the noise is gone and the car is running as it should for the first time since I’ve owned it 👍🏻

I’ll hopefully find out on the 20th when it is in at Skoda. Really hoping my issue isn’t what you’re saying though, as that sounds expensive 😅

You can look on eBay for the individual components, maybe collect them over a bit of time and see if you can get a deal. Here are the ones I had been looking out for to get you a head start, there are a few different options of HU’s and displays you can go for though. Screen - 8” 5E0919605M HeadUnit - 5Q0035874C Canton Amp - 81A035223 USB- 5Q0035726E

After buying the Headunit and amp, add on import duty and CP coding, I didn’t have much change from £800/850 I don’t think. Not a cheap mod but I’d say worth it compared to the old MIB1 units.

My MIB2 Amp was 81A035223 if that helps Leigh. I have my unit installed and coded now, Amp all fitted and working. However I was informed that my CP wasn’t removed from the HU as it might have removed the hacked element of the unit for CarPlay 🤷🏻‍♂️ Not sure how true that is? I agree though, it’s such a good unit compared to what we had originally!

Thanks for the advice, it’s one of those things that if it is a bearing I’ll be annoyed I didn’t just change it myself 😅 it is disheartening though when you spend money and the problem isn’t fixed. Hopefully if they diagnose it and correct it, they will waive the invest charge 🙈 the lady on the phone hinted that’s what would happen anyway. Rob.

I’ve got Eagle F1 AS5’s on the rear and Kumho Ecsta PS71’s on the front. 225/40/18’s on stock Gemini alloys. TPMS has been reset and tyre pressures are at 34psi. I haven’t tried to change the pressures to be honest, but with changing the whole tyre I’d expect a change in the noise if something like the pressure could influence it? It’s the same as it was previously on the different tread. I actually think it would be hard to distinguish a change between the pitch unless it was drastic, it’s like a low bassy hum that just fills the cabin. It seems to vary with different road finishes as well which is why I jumped two feet into new tyres. I have spoken to Skoda this afternoon and booked it in for some invest in a week and a half’s time when they can next fit me in. I’d really like to fix it myself but also don’t want to keep misdiagnosing it and costing even more money. When it was on the Hunter alignment the rear NS tracking was out and adjusted, I think he tweaked all four corners but the RNS was worst, so that needed sorting at least. Rob.

Hi everyone. Hoping someone can help with some previous experience with this. Sorry for the length, I just wanted to give as full of an account as possible… I bought the car maybe 6/8 weeks ago, vRS TDI and just ticked over 94k miles, just had a Skoda dealer service last week and nothing untoward came back from the brakes or suspension during the health check. They also did a full brake fluid replenish during the service. The tyres that came with it when I bought it were quite new but budget cheapos. So I knew I’d be replacing them fairly soon. The first motorway drive after I bought it I realised I had a quite annoying tyre droning type noise, from the left hand side and 90% sure it’s towards the front tyre. The noise becomes audible around 45mph and gets faster/louder as the wheels turn faster. If I steer right at speed the noise changes from a hum to something more constant. The alloys were refurbed 4/5 weeks ago so I’d like to think any buckles or issues would have been found, also the chances of the same alloy being replaced on the same axle would be slim? I had Hunter 4 wheel alignment and 2 brand new rear tyres fitted last week as the insides were on their way out. This didn’t fix the problem. I've just had 2 brand new fronts fitted today as I was almost certain the noise was from the poor manufacturing of the budget tyre (possibly an air pocket under the tread or something). Turns out the noise wasn’t down to the tyres and it is still present. Im now thinking the brakes could maybe be warped? I can’t think what else could cause a noise that increases with rotational speed? The brakes however appear in good condition (rear left seems slightly dull compared to all the rest and I’ve just done 100m back from the lakes yesterday, like it maybe isn’t biting the disc at the same pressure as the rest?) and I don’t get any really noticeable feedback that would concern me when braking. I don’t want to keep replacing bits that are serviceable if I can help it. I also can’t keep doing my weekly commute with the resonance pounding inside the cabin. So wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction or offer any advice. Thanks in advance. Rob.

Has anyone done this and found that when you swipe the green bar to code the ‘Writing’ circular loading screen hangs on OBD11? I’ve tried it twice now, first for around 5/10 mins engine off. Then had to disconnect, started the engine second time and now currently sat waiting with it. Pretty sure it should be a quick few second coding like always? here is my updated code, am I doing something wrong?

Ahh well that’s a game changer then. Looks like he has the correct sensor for it, so if he has the correct stalk, maybe an adaptation could be in order.

Traffic Sign Recog and High Beam Assist. As mentioned previously, you should be able to just move the stalk up 1 notch and that will activate the auto wipers, use the slider on top for the sensitivity. I haven’t seen a mk3 vRS without auto wipers? So its either not working or user error?

ACC is the radar mounted on the lower grill. The larger camera is for lane assist, TSR and I think HBA works off it as well? Maybe that’s another light sensor in the same area though.

Some great information here, thanks very much. Considering I’m doing almost all my driving on the motorway, I think I’m missing out on a few miles per tank. Maybe somewhere between 50 and 100miles. I’ll reassess after the service and wheel alignment as I’m getting some horrible wear on the rear inner wheels, maybe I’m dragging them a bit and that’s hitting the MPG. I’ll have a look at how to calibrate the gauge using my OBD11 if possible, sounds like a worthwhile attempt at correcting any errors. Thanks for this. Luckily I still had my receipt in the car from the last fill up (47Litres) so I’ve downloaded Fuelly and filled in the details. Will be interesting to know accurate results after a few tanks worth. Rob.

Hi everyone, just wondering what sort of MPG/miles to a full tank people are pulling in. Obv lots of different driving styles and commutes so figures will be a bit all over I’d imagine. I personally do the majority of my driving on the motorway to Oxford and back Chorley each week (190 miles) I've got a 2014 vRS that I picked up about a month ago. I understand the tank is 45L, I had a Jag XF before this and the tank was bloody massive compared so I’m just getting a feel for what is the new normal. The last full tank returned about 480 miles and showed 50mpg almost bang on (if that can be trusted!) I expected to get more to be honest, which is why I’ve started this thread. it’s booked in for a service with Skoda next week and 4 wheel alignment the week after so I’m hoping a bit of care will improve things a bit. Thanks for humouring me Rob

Long shot if you can remember or if you’re even still here, but did you find the cause of this?

Amazing lads, thanks very much for your help 👍🏻 Saves me bodging a perfectly good boot handle, even if it will just be a one finger opening operation with the camera in there as well @vahid The camera E option is the correct size for me, but do you know if the MQB connector supplied is compatible with a MIB2 Amundsen head unit? My car is a late 2014, but I have upgraded to a newer unit so I just didn’t want any complications if they can be avoided. thanks again.