fixitsan

I went the cheaper route and got the same results as a new sensor will. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295217682367?fits=Car+Make%3AVW&_skw=vw+differential+pressure+sensor&itmmeta=01JKS16K8RQ8C3SJSA9MHEPFB5&hash=item44bc5857bf:g:vtYAAOSwV8hjIPdN&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmSOkmyar5ZaHwIxdNtNOiC5L8xdqC2pg5TDc%2B33ei6D6l4HXPwF3OBaZKtPyROYDpCB3ytia8JALbYacfp25dOVlpUh%2BaO%2BTEDKPjrf1CHbvjkCnPUmreXGNjoifnjC0r0zI3yVnzGdLb6TMMS%2BRjslz6zvExR1%2FWMUCYEonbDcu%2FPmBegMrp6BX3t%2BacHElJqxkcMXFruLTMfjFPln79iYPgzEglsAWYp4XBjbbmXXTa%2BM0tXhjBtyWeqYMkXRC7WrQL32hBrz0UwROWYQVLA3QqJ5gh8x6JNJ1DuWqrWJLQwE7%2FKSIXzOciilvN7Nso%3D|tkp%3ABFBMxrSaoZ5l

I'm not one to claim to be an expert, I can only tell you my actions and how it was successful The DPF values with a faulty sensor are now invalid, and the next time it tries to regen it will declare a fault. The sensor is still working or you would have had an error saying the signal is implausible, so it's just reading low pressure. If you replace the sensor it will start to read valid outputs from the sensors again, and could restore the previous values. I certainly don't see why it would lose all values, as if by deleting them, just because of a short period of unusual values. I did a forced regen but I don;t think it was really necessary, and it will take a few drive cycles and at least one attempted regen before it will realign it's status. Either way a new signal is better than what you currently have so I don't see what's to lose by changing the sensor anyway, and if it doesn't work you'll need to do the other processes anyway all the same I'd start with a £16 sensor off ebay. As I did that already and it already worked

You can just buy the new sensor, make sure it has the same part number, and try it. After a few 'drive cycles' you might find the fault clears itself, but you can clear the DTC with your reader anyway. I didn't have any problem after that, done 10k miles since. By the looks of it your plug/wiring have survived. You can try disconnecting the plug first to make sure, and give the connector pins a spray with contact cleaner to be sure

I mentioned the battery as a possibility because it wasn't clear when this fault happens. If the engine is running, and given the fact you can run the car without a battery, then it won't be battery related if the fault occurs while driving, except if stop-start is working. Although I notice my car's stop start only works when the battery has enough charge, for obvious reasons When my car judders, i get errors, a combination of tyre pressure error, ESC not available error,, stop-start not available. No OBD error is recorded ,turning off the engine to reset returns everything to normal But on one occasion I got a hard fault, plugged in the OBD reader to find P0322 Crank position sensor is faulty

Possibly the battery. Turn off or disable stop/start and then see what happens ?

My 2.0tdi estate came with Cross Climate 1's which i didn't rate in the wet and when it came time to change them I was looking for something else. But the Cross Climate 2's came out and the reports were their wet handling is much improved, as is aquaplaning resistance. I was glad I tried them, they're a great all around tyre but esppecially good int he cold/wet. I'm a service engineer, driving between 20k - 50k miles per year, often on nightshift, driving cross country, here in cold/wet Scotland, so I am picky !

I've been having the same problem, with a 2.0 tdi, 2016 model The fix is to replace the crankshaft position sensor, which is a bit tricky on mine. If you're going to do it yourself buy only a genuine sensor, as my replacement aftermarket version was worse than the original, the engine wouldn't rev over 3000rpm

I decided to bite the bullet and have a go myself. Once I spent a while setting up an angled inspection mirror, 2 torches, and an 8" extension with a 4mm hex bit, it was plain sailing for nearly an hour ! The problem is the aftermarket sensor i fitted causes more stuttering than the original, and a code P0321. I've refitted the original one for now Moral of the story is buy the genuine item first time !

I think I've found it, behind the flywheel housing, around the corner from the oil filter. A tight squeeze for my massive hands, might see if there's a garage in West Lothian who can do it for me.

Been having intermittent stuttering but no code. Finally got a code today of P0322, crankshaft sensor Looking on Google and Youtube I'm not able to find the sensor location info specific to my model, can someone advise me where the crankshaft sensor is please

Hehe no its actually survived, is still flexible and the pop studs work fine.

Yes I tried that I think I've resolved it... If I assume all the windows were down because I sat on the key lastnight (holding down the 'door open' button), and there was a bit of rain lastnight, then the drivers door switch could have got wet. I've opened up the door switch to get to the PCB, and the tracks are corroded under each of the front buttons. I've cleaned the tracks/pads and they work normally again. These are the sort of tactile switches with a conductive rubber pad which shorts out a grid of conductive tracks to make the circuit. I'ld say they've been wet before too.

Came back from holiday and as expected the new sensors were here. They're 'noname' brand, or unlabelled Bosch (who knows ?), purchased instead of originals due to the new plugs and wire tails which came with them, so that I can get back to work in the car tomorrow without having to waste time sourcing new plugs etc. It took under an hour to splice, solder,wrap and seal the wire transplants. Once the car started the codes were cleared, and by the time I drove to the nearest motorway the oil temp was warm enough for a regen to begin as soon as I hit the motorway. I've done a few stop/starts, and battery-off reset, no codes, all working fine. I'll monitor how often it regens and then consider doing a sensor adaptation if it needs it. MPG reading has increased (better economy) back to where it previously was. But another problem has occured since not using the car for a week, I guess due to some condensation, the electric windows are misbehaving, the two rears weren't working at all but now work fine, but the fronts are very intermittent. I can hear the window relays firing briefly as I drive along, so there's a source of CANbus noise somewhere. All windows were in the down position this morning when I woke up, but the remote hasn't been touched. I'll have to monitor this.

Yes I think there are more modern sensors which use different techniques. But in reality 1 failure in 150k miles is perfectly acceptable to me

I've found more info on another forum, seems quite common, and as mentioned previously the movement of pipes to remove the TB cover might cause the sensor port to crack. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/dpf-pressure-sensors-melted.514897/ Mine was already like this before starting the TB change, the last TB change was 60k miles ago (2 1/2 years), so it might just be a brittle plastic/random failure. £18 for each new sensor, with new plugs and wiring, isn't the end of the world.

Do you know of a recall for DPF pressure sensors ?

I feel that the position is fine. My guess is the sensing element degraded internally, allowing a hole to develop. With a hole internally, exhaust gas is able to then flow through the sensor, transporting heat internally directly from the exhaust, to the sensor internals. It has melted away from the inside out, not outside in. Easy to fix at least

I can see why that might happen, but this happened all by itself, and was only discovered because I had a reason to take the engine cover off, so they seem to possess the knack of self immolation !

I've managed to clean up one soot covered melted ex sensor with a cotton bud and water, and can make out 03L 906 51B now. There's a seller on eBay who sells them with a new plug and six inch long wire tails attached, so repair isn't going to be too bad now For now I've clamped up the pipe where the exhaust gasses are blowing from. Car isn't needed for a week, luckily, and I use the motorway frequently so I don't think I need to worry about the dpf.

Thats the one, thanks. Two of item 41, 906-015.1, are required Darkside list them as 906-051B, maybe there's a typo mistake in the part number somewhere, but it looks like the right part, physically. And is listed for the Superb CRLB https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/dpf-differential-exhaust-pressure-sensor-03l-906-051-b.html As for the wiring harness and melted plugs, that'll need a trip to the breakers if I can't find the correct connector online

Ive got VCDS for the coding. At least 2 plugs have melted, and the sensors they attach to are too badly burned to get a part number. Do easy to use partlists exist online ?

I dont think its in there, I can only see exhaust/turbo, but it doesnt show the pressure measurement devices/system

Thanks for the headsup....It's the diesel 2.0, 150HP Common Rail . MY2016 There's a sort of tinfoil bag with press studs normally wrapped around this sensor assembly, at the rear top of the engine. A couple of chrome pipes loop across the cambelt cover and feed up into 2 rubber pipes going into the foil/heatshield packet. Bit of a mare of a job, but manageable.

So my Superb has been pretty much faultless since buying it at 92k miles. I change the oil at 10-12k, filter at 18-20k, very glad I fitted Bilsteins. The time has come to do the cambelt again at 151k miles, as I opened up the heat shield wrapping on top of the engine, under the top engine cover, I found this mess. Can someone identify the sensors, my guess is one is the dpf differential pressure sensor, is the other a load sensor ? I had a MIL come on a couple of days ago, so this must be why. Any advice/diagrams appreciated