encephalopathy

its a matched set (matched as being similarly increased in thickness over stock , not necessarily identical). if you have massively different stiffness of front and rear arbs you have have unpredictable handling

leave those springs alone and upgrade front and rear ARBs (along with fresh droplinks) this will make a massive improvement in handling, far more than altering springs

cheers for the advice ordered a bosch S5 A08. how difficult is it to remove and refit a battery? (i have obdeleven for the coding bit) was keen to get it ordered sooner rather than later with all the border shenanigans between NI and rest of UK happening at the moment!

my battery appears to be on its way out when i check my battery from my reg on tayna.co.uk it suggests an AGM battery is what my 2016 petrol vrs takes, but when i look at the battery if came with from new it is an EFB battery (MOLL 12v 69Ah 360A) any thoughts on what exactly i should order? (plan to buy bosch) thanks

same here - had this happen a couple of times on my mk2 octavia - was through the speakers/sound system. completely random.

this was a bit fiddly in my 2016 vrs. initially holding down the reset button only pinged up settings for the clock and the battery. i eventually worked out to reset oil and inspection i had to wait until the warnings popped up (ignition off), press in reset button (keep holding) and turn on ignition. this popped up the reset oil and service options that could be acknowledged by releasing and quickly pressing the reset button

don't create too much of a difference between front and rear or you can have unwelcome handling traits like unexpected snap oversteer. Either go with a modest upgrade as mentioned in post above or a matched front and rear setup (matched being matched for the pair, not necessarily matched for the same thickness)

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/482795-looking-to-improve-grip-handling-of-20-tsi-220-ps/?tab=comments#comment-5426375 i posted some stuff in the thread above, also strut brace - subtle effect cutting down chatter through the wheel when cornering on bumpy roads front and rear arbs - brilliant upgrade bilstein spring/shocks moderateimprovement although fitted at the same time as my arbs michelin ps4 tyres (im running 18s) and get a proper hunter 4 wheel alignment - this is what i would do first!

erwin?

there was an issue with fuel line vibration on some cars i think that caused an intermittent buzz/vibration from the drivers seat area

torquetronix in kells supplied and fitted my uprated clutch for me

you need to look at an uprated clutch. lots of stuff on golf r forums about stock clutches slipping, cupra would be similar. i changed to an uprated sachs clutch, wee bit heavier but you get used to it very quickly. its going to be around a grand for clutch and labour, no point in not getting an uprated one if you are keeping the map on bangor wales or county down? if the latter i can let you know where i had mine replaced

Sorry about the images not working - hopefully they display now ok. The codes are what i fitted to my combi/estate pertrol vrs. hope this helps!

here are the codes for the kit i bought for my petrol vrs estate - front/rear anti-roll bars and the shocks/springs. you should consider replacing ARB droplinks as well as you now corner faster and mine lasted ~a month before the front ones failed (they were on the car 3 years/30k miles) //sorry not sure how to edit the photo descriptions, but the photos themselves are correct!

my clutch started to slip ~10k miles after a stage 1 remap. uprated sachs clutch and fitting was about 1k. it is a bit heavier than before but you adadt very quickly to it.

i found mine could alter the speaking volume by turning the volume scroll wheel on the steering wheel BUT only when a navigation instruction was being said like 'turn left in 100yards". if yours is set very low it might take a bit of guesswork with the timing....

very similar to my setup. only other things to consider are front strut brace (makes it more solid feeling cornering on bumpy surface, but it is subtle) and dogbone mount - sorted wheelhop at the expense of slightly more noise vibration and harshness, mainly at startup.

subtle improvement when cornering on bumpy surface - less chatter through the steering wheel much more noticeable cornering improvement from upgrading your anti-rollbars

strut brace - reduces chatter going round bumpy corners - subtle effect upgraded arbs - brilliant improvement in handling. you should consider fresh droplinks too as mine both failed probably due to the extra stress through cornering a bit quicker bilstein shocks and lowering springs - work well with the upgraded arbs and not overly harsh ride compared with stock vrs. they just work. upgraded dogbone insert to reduce wheelhop - increased NVH but well worth it as minimal wheel hop in the wet now michelin pilot sport 4 tyres - excellent in dry, good in wet shortshifter - feels better with much shorter throw i've probably enjoyed the handling upgrades as much as, if not more than a remap

thanks for the advice!

Looking for some sensible advice My car is 4.5 years old, petrol vrs with 42k miles, remapped since ~10k miles along with a few other upgrades (turbo inlet hose, muffler delete, upgraded arbs, eibach/bilstein lowering springs/shocks) i want to do a few more things like - upgrade cornering fogs to LEDs (what bulbs and how many do i need to order?) - front honeycomb grille (do i need to order just the grille from superskoda or a replacement surround as well?) - does the petrol vrs need a replacement timing chain/waterpump at this age/mileage? - should i get the intake manifold checked for sludge buildup/+- cleaned need some other things sorted like bumper off and a siren repositioned from inside engine bay to possibly a space between the horns in front of the radiator anything else either maintenance or upgrade wise i should consider at this age/mileage? (not interested in intercooler/turboback exhaust at present) cheers!

sorry - never used carista so i don't know

i think i replaced mine directly with skoda rapid led ones. it needed a tiny bit of filing of a tab with a craft knife if i remember correctly. i will try and find the post here you go!! (part number and photos included) I did need to code with obd11 O3 LED number plate replacements

did you change the battery serial number using vcds or obdeleven when it was replaced?

i have the same issue - very annoying. i suspect it is a coding issue and unlikely to be fixed by a hard reset. after a reset the first song played works ok then you are continually one song out of sync with the display (bluetooth and spotify)