Skoti

That's interesting, in wet weather I've also noticed a run of water inside from the wiper spindle area. I'll wait and watch to see if you solve this issue. Good luck! Skoti

Hello Roottoot, thanks for your advice, I won't remap now. Instead I've found a local independent place that has a dyno and may be able to simulate and diagnose my power loss problem below 2000rpm when towing. If successfully repaired I'll post the conclusion for general interest. In an earlier post I mentioned the car went fine for a few miles after being parked up for 30 minutes or so. I'm led to believe this is due to a cooler more dense intake charge which apparently benefits combustion and performance, but then as the engine warms up heat transfer warms the intake air again. I sort of remember this experience back in the 70's from my little Yamaha two stroke bike that used to always go like the clappers on a cool summers night... Be interesting to hear anyone else's take on this?

Happy new year to all. Just wondering if anyone on here has used Quantum Tuning ? They offer this:- "Chip tuning Quantum Green Economy is a special version of the engine control software for Skoda vehicles. The engine maps for the 110 KW engine are adjusted by raising the torque at low speed. It is therefore not a classic ECU remap for Skoda vehicles, all optimizations are made to minimize consumption while maintaining driving dynamics". Probably might not get to the bottom of my power loss problem but perhaps may improve matters. I'm planning to visit their place next week to have my stop/start deactivated and suss out their workshop set up etc.

Thanks for the throttle box tip. I've had a google around to try and investigate this. Thought about trying the Pedalbox+ module for about 200 quid but I'm hesitant to do so as my throttle and power response below 2000rpm is perfect when pulling away after the car is parked for 30 mins and has cooled off a wee bit. But when warmed up again it's goes back to it's non-responsive mode. When the car was new the throttle response was also quite laggy but after the first thousand miles it sharpened up, presumably because the engine had loosened off. Just to recap - on a 600 miles autobahn trip with my caravan in tow the car was pulling like train as usual, then the next day when I set off again it struggled to pull below 2000rpm without constant gear changing and extra throttle, Been checked by local main stealer, no DTC present and all is in order according to them. Ever since It's just not had the same drivability as before, normally it would accelerate up some of the hills around here in 5th gear from 1600rpm with just a light touch of the throttle pedal. The engine now feels more lumpy below 2000rpm and the fuel consumption is roughly averaging 10 mpg extra. More suggestions welcomed...

Hi, thanks for correcting my confused terminology. What you say sounds exactly like the problem I'm experiencing. But as my engine code is DFGA (EU6) and was built in May 2018, it has no VVT system fitted as far as I can see. Back to the drawing board for now, but also still open to further suggestions please...

Yes, I'm sure it's the usual VAG variable vane turbo system fitted to the EA288 engines. Thanks for the actuator tip, please will you direct me to the relevant article? I've been sorta thinking the problem I'm experiencing may be due to insufficient boost pressure below 2000rpm. Maybe I should have the actuator and turbo control valve duty cycle checked and compared with the requested amount from the ECU below 2000rpm? Without any recorded DTC I'm still in the dark with this problem and open to any suggestions. Also from past experience with my old PDI Skoda I know slight vacuum leakage can cause boost pressure problems so I've been over the small rubber pipes time again checking for the usual pine martin bite marks, they have teeth like needles.

Further update. Just back from a thrash on the German autobahn where I filled up with premium plus diesel and chucked in a can of BG245. Managed to hold 110mph flat out in 4th gear for a few miles on a long uphill stretch, motor seems a bit more sprightly now but not solved my power loss under 2000rpm. But what I have discovered is that after parking for maybe 30 minutes and letting the engine cool off a wee bit, I then find when pulling away again normal power under 2000rpm comes back for a short spell until the engine heats up properly again. I wonder if any one else has experienced this or can explain it?

Update. Well I'm just back from a visit to the main dealers with my Superb 2.0tdi 150 that has a power loss below 2000rpm and fuel consumption issue. They plugged in and detected no DTC's. I'm told there's nowt wrong with the performance and the fuel consumptions issues are due to the winter tyres I'm running. Anyhow If I'm not happy I've too keep running it until the eml comes on and then they will have another look. I asked them if they could check the DPF and EGR for blockage and was told this was a big job that would take all day and they would have to borrow special equipment from the mother dealership... Seems like they are not interested unless they can detect a DTC or have a service bulletin with the answer to the problem addressed. Going to have to find an independent specialist to have a proper look, so much for main stealers!

Good luck with sealing the bellows, I'll be watching with interest to see if it cures your leak. Slightly off topic, but I sprayed the inside of my tail gate with anti-corrosion cavity sealer when I had the inner trim off, unbelievable how much thinner the sheet metal is on newer Skoda models compared to my old 2006 Octavia...

Interesting that, cos my Superb tailgate only leaked when parked pointing uphill as well... I pulled the inner tail gate trim off, climbed inside with a torch and had the wife hose the tailgate with water torch, never found the leak tho. Now living happily with the 3 small rubber bungs on the underside of the tail gate removed, which means any water that leaks in runs straight out again.

May not be relevant to your Kodiaq but my 2018 Superb estate tail gate had water leaking into it, you could hear it sloshing around when opening it. I done all the usual stuff but just ended up removing the 3 small rubber grommets from the bottom of the tail gate to let the water drain away. Normally the drain holes in tail gates serve a purpose so I'm not sure why the factory fitted grommets to them in the first place? Good luck Skoti

I think your A3 probably recirculated exhaust gases before they entered the DPF, later Euro 6 engines recirculate the exhaust gases after they have been through the DPF, hence less carbon build up on the the later engines, but crystallization of AdBlue takes place instead. Anyhow regards emission problems on 2.0TDi 150 Euro 6 engines, take a look at the fun T6 owners are having.... NOx sensor and Adblue faults codes | VW T6 Transporter Forum (t6forum.com)

I believe the DPF heat is self generated on VAG Euro 6 SCR systems as part of the regen sequence, so probably no need to drive the car until the engine is extra hot. But please correct me if I've got this wrong...

Watching and waiting...

After watching a clip on SCR cleaning I'm starting to get a bit concerned about the VAG Euro 6 motors and the possible cause of my Superb power loss. For those of you technically minded here's the clip:- From approx 5 mins in you can see the effects of AdBlue crystallization on the particulate filter, no amount of regens can prevent this happening.... Happy Sunday Skoti