JamesStam

Utter garbage. Mine leaked that badly they clicked and knocked like nobody's business. 2019 / 22,000 miles. Fortunately the cost of replacement was reimbursed by the dealership I bought the car from.

I bought it at just over 3 years old with 21,000 miles. I spotted the leaking shocks (but not the knocking noise) just after I bought it - hence the dealer paying for the work.

Good evening all, Having suffered with knocking noises on both sides , today I... * changed the shock absorbers * changed the top mounts The noises have gone. Of note - the mechanic's suspicion was the shocks all along (as was mine and my dad's with whom I spent hours phaffing around with the suspension assemblies trying to figure out where the noise was originating). Having driven it only 20+ miles since the change, the drive itself is MASSIVELY improved as the damping is much more effective and there's a lot less bounce. Due to a miscommunication, the top mount was changed but not the bearings within. Life. Therefore, I am confident in saying... The shock absorbers were causing the irritating knocking. (shocks were £368 all in with VW parts - in my case this was covered by the garage I bought the vehicle from).

Took it to Skoda originally whose charge was £85. They waived it having found nothing.

Shocks changed. Top mounts changed. Noise gone.

Possibly the valve - although he's never had the problem on a VAR he said it's incredibly common on Peugeots. I suppose that'll never be known unless they're stripped (if the problem goes when changed). I've spent hours doing what I can and I must admit it "feels" to me it's in the top of the shock / top mount area. We'll see.

Yes - local mechanic had it on ramps and couldnt find anything at all. I bounced the car for him off the ramps and demonstrated the knock which can be felt through the top of the shocks. He THINKS it's the shocks. There's been a huge delay with top mounts (Skoda) then shocks (TPS). Both arrived about 3 weeks ago but the mechanic back log is enormous. Both are being changed on Monday. We'll see what happens.

Took it to stealers who were useless and couldn't (be bothered to) diagnose any issue. There's been a huge (lockdown related) delay on shocks and top mounts. Due for change on Monday. We'll see...

Any updates anyone?

Exactly the same on mine. Both sides. Any update on your issue?

Thanks, Ken. I'll look at the space saver option too. I only have an SE model so no varioflex access issues. Thanks.

Afternoon all, A local seller on FB market place is offering a Karoq spare wheel, full polystyrene surround with tools, and additional carpet for £120. The seller tells me the spare's size is 215/60 16". The size of my SE 5 spoke alloy is 215/55 17". Therefore the overall diameter difference is 3mm. Apparently the wheel lifts the height of the boot floor to more or less level with the opening. Two questions: 1. Suitable size? 2. Good value? Thanks, James

Hi all, Had a go at a few things this weekend. Jacked up the driver's side at the jacking point (both sides are knocking) and let the wheel hang freely. Used a spade as a lever to lift the wheel to lift the wheel up and down from underneath. 20220611_182856_1.mp4 Can't tell if that up/down play should be there. It wasn't the shock compressing as far as I can tell. The noise from inside the cabin sounded like a thud rather than a knock but the noise could be different with the suspension unloaded. From above, it was also difficult to see any play but a thud could be heard. Above_1.mp4 JR - the bearing does rotate freely when not under load.... 20220611_183442_1_1.mp4 However, I did turn the steering wheel lock to lock (when on a hill) and heard the same knocking clear as day. ( No video). Hmmm... Local(ish) wise mechanic needed I think.

Sorry to mislead. Previously Octavia 2013 but the suspension issue is with a 2019 Karoq. Not entirely sure what Skoda did other than diagnose leaking shocks which I'm trying to sort. I will certainly give your method a go. Very sensible and helpful reply, thank you very much indeed.

Thank you JR. Where am I looking for the rubber to distort then jump round? I have no drawings so can't fully understand the assembly. Red, yellow or blue?