AJK87

Hi, just wondering if you sorted this, I have a similar issue on my 2015 Scout.

Thanks for the help, got it changed with no issues. My noise is still there though 😫

Any thoughts on doing the 180 degrees with an impact gun? I know people go through the wheel centre with the wheel on the ground but surely weighting the bearing before the bolt is tight can damage the new bearing?

Thanks so much for this

TMBMJ7NE7F0188519 That's brilliant, thanks so much

Hello, I'll be changing a front wheel bearing on my 2015 Scout this weekend. Just wondering if anyone has the above? If anyone knows the bearing bolt torques too then even better. Thanks in advance Andy

Brand new continental cross contact LX2 fitted all around. The haldex definitely does take care of any loss of traction, that experiment removing the Haldex fuse has proven that. The system works so well though, you only lose traction for a nano second

One other thought I've had, is there still such a thing as a keep alive memory fuse on cars that one can pull out to reset adapted values etc...?

It spins the front wheels up, slides sideways if you hoof it around a roundabout in the damp (albeit that is with ASR/ESC off to courtesy of fuse removal) Just feels a lot more exciting and engaging to drive to be honest 😂 That might be because mine isn't right though, I'd have thought a 4x4 VRS would be reasonably fun to take off in, which is effectively what my Scout should be in a straight line at least

Thanks for the suggestions, I will persist with looking into it as I'm positive something isn't right. It all looked timed up perfectly. The notch on crank pulley lined up with arrow on cover and lollipops went into cam pulley and fuel pump pulleys and into cylinder head. Blocked DPF would fit with the slightly strangled feeling which led me to check the timing in the first place, just would have expecyed codes and lights on for that

No different unfortunately, thanks anyway though

Thanks very much for the info, will give it a go

I'd expect a fault code or light on for that but I'll certainly give it a go

Well, that was a very useful exercise, and I was wrong. With Haldex fuse removed (which also disables ASR/ESC) the car spins the front wheels up in 2nd gear on a damp road. With the fuse back in but ASR switched off I can't get any loss of traction, which proves exactly what you said and that the 4wd is working excellently. The car feels quicker in low gears with the fuse out, but just as flat in higher gears ar lower revs. It's as though the power is there but not the torque. Once the 4wd maintains traction and means the engine is having to propell the full weight of the car it feels like you're pulling something very heavy along. You'd think remapped to approx 185bhp with 400+NM torque it would pick up really well at lower revs in 4th/5th but it is feeble. Guess a rolling road is all there is left to try

Ok that's a good shout thanks, and what you say about the 4wd not allowing the fronts to lose traction makes perfect sense. It's just as the driver I can tell the power is so poor the fronts wouldn't be losing traction even without the rear wheels potentially kicking in. Removing the Haldex fuse is a good idea though. Cheers

I think you've misread my message. You're correct about ASR intervention rather than ESC though. I said i cannot get my front wheels to lose any traction at all on a wet greasy road even foot to the floor in 1st gear. I realise the Haldex system will kick the rears in when the fronts lose traction, thus limiting the need for an ASR intervention but the power is so poor the front wheels don't even get near to losing traction. As you say very low powered cars will spin the front wheels in the wet, but not my apparantly 185ps 400nm Octavia

That further confirms to me that mine isn't right. On a wet greasy road, once off the clutch if i put the accelarator to the floor i can't even get the front wheels to lose traction in 1st gear and cause an ESC intervention. That's not because the 4wd is enabling lots of power to be put down, it's just because the power is so poor. I love the car from a practical point of view but it's so flat compared to any diesel I've ever driven around the 2.0l displacement mark It feels like a 1.6 td unit is under the bonnet even after this supposed 185bhp remap

That's interesting, and is pretty much what the local VAG dealer said. I'm still not convinced mine is right though. People consider these Scouts to be a good towing vehicle, in 150 or 185 bhp variants. Before the remap it would have felt like a dangerous prospect attempting to tow a caravan in mine. Even after the remap I wouldn't feel very happy towing with it. Any of my old diesels I'd have had confidence towing with, for context, a 2010 Focus 2.0, 2005 CRV 2.2, and even an old Peugout 1.9 td. I guess I'll have to go down the dyno avenue to prove or disprove. Don't think there is any 4wd dyno places near me in South Cumbria so might be a day trip away

Not yet no, that is potentially where I'll have to go next with it, although it won't necessarily help locate the cause if it does prove it is down on power

This was a long time ago now but I'm reviving this thread as I still feel I have an uresolved issue. As I couldn't find anything wrong I had the car remapped by superchips, should now be approx 185 bhp & 400NM torque. It's a bit less tedious now but I still don't seem to have low down torque. Rev it in 1st 2nd and 3rd and it will move but without the sensation of any real torque and with only very docile turbo boost. At 2000 - 2500 rpm the usual torque I've had in every other diesel car I've owned just isn't there. It feels strangled. It should pull like a train following the remap. There's absolutely no way a VRS could be so weak and that is what power it should be running now, give or take. I managed to convince myself the only plausible explanation was engine timing a tooth out. Checked the timing today and it's fine. No lights on, no codes logged. I'm at a loss. Any one have any ideas or similar experiences? Thanks

The service manager responded with a politician like response in which he stood by his technicians diagnosis. The implication being that they have to carry out repairs that last rather than try flushing things and risk a short lived repair. That, on the face of it, makes sense. Reccomending a £6200 full diff replacement without trying a £200 pump first is a pretty wreckless way to behave in my opinion though. I pointed out that had it been explained to me at the time of the diagnosis that there was a chance of fixing it with a pump, but with no gurantees of longevity, I'd have been able to make an informed decision. Instead I had a quote for £6200 handed to me. Despite the service manager's defensiveness, he did refund the diagnostic charge. I've done 5000 miles now and am iminently going to do another haldex oil change! Thanks to all that helped on here!

Wanted to follow up on this: I drained all the fluid which was filthy, fired loads of brake cleaner into the haldex coupling reservoir and blew through with compressed air. Fitted a new pump + oil and crucially carried out the reset haldex pump learned values procedure on a diag machine. The issue has been fixed. I've now had 4wd working reliably for about 5000 miles. I infromed the VAG dealer that I'd fixed it for approximately £6000 less than their diagnosis and insisted they refund my diagnostic charge Thanks so much JR for your help! Just need to fix my lack of power issue now

Main dealers don't tend to split them, that's because under warranty VAG pay for a complete diff replacement, so they just adopt the same belt and braces approach on cash jobs. It means they can more easily guarantee the repair with no comeback. In many cases it will be an over repair. TPS and VW supply the whole diff assembley or the haldex unit seperately. There's videos of the haldex and diff being stripped on Youtube. One by 'humblemechanic' and one by 'PT precision automotive' so it's perfectly feasible to do. Ideally I want to replace the haldex with diff in situ and not have to remove the diff casing for cleaning. This makes it a drastically smaller undertaking and also means I don't have to lower the subframe which to date never has been. If I don't have to I'd prefer not to mess with all that and then have to do 4 wheel alignmnet after. The question is whether I will manage flushing the vast majority of contaminated fluid out without splitting the diff and wiping out the haldex reservoir. Looks like I will have to crack on with the work, make a judgement call on it and report back with some photos

The garage doesn't want to fit a new haldex unit, they want to fit an entire new diff assembley, that's the haldex unit and diffetential combined. Cost of the parts alone is well in excess of £4k. I'm not preoccupied with trying to fix the existing Haldex unit and don't intend to. I'm more than happy to buy a reconditioned Haldex from ECU's direct for about £700 and fit it myself. The question I really want answering which I keep eluding to is regarding flushing of old contaminated oil without removing the diff casing... If I'm spending £700 on a reconditioned Haldex I don't want remnants of contaminated swarf filled oil circulating around it. The Haldex oil reservoir is part of the diff casing, the casing has 2 sections internally. One for diff oil and one for Haldex oil. So removing and changing the haldex unit will not automatically get rid of all contaminated fluid. What I'm wanting is knowledge from somebody with experience of working on this system in this guise with Haldex reservoir in diff casing. Will I be able to flush contaminated oil out sufficiently with just Haldex and fill plug removed using compressed air and oil etc, or will I only be able to achieve this by splitting the diff casing and thoroughly cleaning. That's all I want to know. Hopefully somebody here has worked on this

Cheers for the reply JR The first independent garage (which I worked at years ago when I was still in the trade) showed me the contaminated fluid and showed me the pump, the gauze was completely gunked up (on the outside of the gauze). If the swarf was from the pump failing, surely it would be trapped on the inside of the gauze?. Anyway, independent garage number 1 did an oil change and cleaned the pump gauze and confirmed that the pump was running. They believed the 4WD was fixed. It wasn't though, didn't work at all even when I first got it back. Several months have gone buy as I've been struggling for time to sort it, decided to book it in at my local VAG dealer (VW) They also confirmed that the pump is running but no drive to rear wheels. Removed the pump and oil which was all contaminated again and swarf visible. I was shown the photographs. So it all suggests the route cause of the contamination and swarf is the haldex unit itself. The pump wouldn't leak that much swarf through the gauze into the oil and then again after an oil change surely. Thanks for your thoughts, really appreciate any help or advise!