AJK87

The Haldex and Diff have seperate oils that's for sure. My understanding is that the diff casing is split into 2 sections internally. 1 acts as a diff oil reservoir and the other is the haldex oil rservoir. (This is the case on a gen 5 haldex) This is a pain as simply replacing the haldex unit means swarf and contaminated oil will likely remain in the section of the diff casing that holds the haldex oil and this will cause the new haldex to fail prematurely. I'm trying to find out from someone with experience whether with the haldex unit, and fill plug removed am I likely to manage flushing the reservoir out sufficiently, or will I need to split the diff casing. Cheers

Thanks for the reply. The pump is running so it isn't an electeical fault. The fact the fluid is contaminated and has metal particles in it proves the haldex unit has suffered mechanical faliure. Especially considering the fluid was changed and pump cleaned and it quickly became contaminated again. The big question I have is around how advisable it is to change just the haldex coupling rather than a complete diff and haldex. Also, if I change just the haldex coupling how do I ensure I clean all the swarf and contaminated oil out of the haldex fluid reservoir which is part of the diff casing. Hoping for some first hand knowledge from someone that has done this. Thanks

Hi all, Bought a 2015 Octavia Scout 1 year ago, 4WD never worked. Thought it had been fixed by a fluid change and a pump strainer clean done by independant garage. Quickly realised it wasn't fixed. Local VW garage removed the pump again and found the fluid to be contaminated again and swarf present. Diagnosis is that the clutch pack had failed. Quoted me for a complete diff assembley £6127 !! There is no noise from the diff so my plan at the moment is to buy a reconditioned Haldex coupling only. Ideally I'd like to change this with the diff in situ to save a load of hassle. My concern is that the Haldex reservoir is part of the diff casing and will I be able to flush sufficient contaminated oil out by blowing fresh oil and conpressed air through fill and drain holes? If not, can the diff casing be pulled off with the diff in situ or do I need to completely remove? Thanks in advance for any advice Andy

I tend to just leave it in Normal mode. Irrespective of what mode I have it in it just feels weak. Can't carry out confident overtakes to the point that I just don't bother trying now

Thanks again, will inspect it tomorrow!

@J.R. Thanks for the suggestion, worth checking out for sure. It idles, and starts perfectly and never stalls. Could this still be the issue do you think? Thanks

Hi all, First post here. I bought a 2015 Scout 150 last September. One owner from new and FSSH 70k on clock. Car drives great but I've always been underwhelmed by the performance, particularly the torque, low down torque is pitiful. For context, my previous car was a 2010 2.0TDCI Focus estate, which despite being boring to look at went like **** off a stick. I'm not sure if I've just been spoilt by the torque in the focus which was a much lighter car. Overtaking on a single carriageway road in the Scout is just not possible most of the time though. Only when you have a massive straight where you can see for miles. Not very reassuring. No fault codes logged and I've recently serviced with genuine bits including fuel and air filter but no change. You just don't feel the kind of turbo boost and torque I am used to from diesels. The selling dealer changed the cam.belt and W/P before I bought it. Could it be a tooth out or would that put a light on? Any thoughts welcome Am I just expecting too much? Thanks