IndeedFox

In terms of the mechanic bu***** , I think it's maybe, as you say, them being sure. I took it to Skoda who told me that it definitely needed both the pipe and the injector because once air gets into the system, it solidifies. Interestingly, where I had it repaired is a friend's garage and he wasn't charging me for the labour, so there was nothing in it for him. He did confirm what the Skoda garage said and said that he's had many jobs in where an enthusiastic DIYer has changed the injector alone and then the pressure from the damaged pipe has caused it to go again. I had a look at both parts as they came off and the pipe was clearly solid in feel along a number of places whereas the new pipe was freemoving all along its length. The injector was £158 so it wasn't worth risking having to do it all over again. For someone who is actually paying for labour, that's way too big a risk. It's just my particular experience and it was my decision on the job and the risk. I can guarantee that it's now running fine so I have peace of mind.

From what I gather, Its little to do with the quality of ad-blue. One of the clankys at the Skoda garage actually quipped that they wish that they didn't have the system on at all. I get the impression its something that causes more issues than they let on.

Hi all, Giving something back today. Please note, this is purely my experience and point of view regarding used vs new parts etc. Make up your own mind. I appreciate others may have had slightly different experiences. I was recently looking around here, and also various VW and Audi forums, to try and get a handle on an issue I was having (see pic). There was a lot of the usual opinion, some accurate, some not so, and as it seems to be such a common occurrence I thought I'd add what I've had done to sort it. The pic is looking down at the Ad-blue injector on my 2017 Superb 190 Diesel estate DSG. You're looking at Ad-Ble that has escaped under pressure. The warning on the dash is "Reductant pressure too low" (P20E800 code). There was also a message to say ad-blue was running low and the car would go into limp mode in 650 miles. The first thing that I have realised, although it's not always, just often, is that this issue seems to have been posted by others during the coldest winter months. It happened to me the day after the temperature dropped to -8 degrees. I thought it was frozen water [snow] at first as it looks like it but it wasn't cold. It was solid though and chipped off easily. Hot water then cleans it off perfectly. I cleaned it, cleared the fault code, topped the ad-blue up, and drove carefully to see if I could detect the leak. It seemed ok for a few days but then returned so I consulted a VW mechanic I know. He confirmed it's very common across the group brands on this engine. He also tried to convince me to delete the ad-blue system but that's a different post. He confirmed the failed parts (04L131113P - Injector and 3Q0131984N - Pipe) and explained why they both needed replacing together. Apparently, DIY'ers miss this sometimes and end up buying injectors twice. The pipe is damaged/blocked and the pressure build-up can damage the injector. You can see how the ad-blue solidifies. He also dissuaded me from buying used parts. There were some available on ebay but for the difference in price, it isn't worth not knowing if they've previously had this fault and been cleaned. New parts also come with a warranty. I managed to source an injector, brand new, for £158 delivered. He had to source the pipe which was £255 delivered inc VAT. Here's where it gets interesting. I'm handy enough to tackle many jobs. After watching him doing it there's no way I'd have been able to. The pipe is fed through a very very tight aperture at the base/back of the engine below the injector. It then runs down through the chassis popping out along with the fuel line at the rear. It's a cramped space and circa 10 ft to feed. The pipe has attachments at either end that make it harder and it's incredibly fragile. Also, there are small wires, a connector, and the fittings that can all be damaged very easily. He knows what he's doing and it still took several hours. The injector itself was somewhat easier but still fiddly. So. There you have it. If you have this issue, you know what needs doing. If you can find a mechanic that will let you source the new parts then there's a few hundred pounds to be saved. Expect up to three hours labour at worst. Possibly two if it goes through easily without snagging. There's no access point to prevent that though. This was done several days ago and it's running well again with no issues. Feel free to message with any questions. I hope it is useful for someone.

Cheers. Quickly realised this as I searched for them. Going to buy the newest one I can find to hopefully have a longer battery life.

Tganks buddy, at risk of sounding daft, this is a Fabia part isn't it? Do they use the same part across range or am I looking for a Suerb specific one? Thanks again.

Hi there, I've got a similar problem on my Superb 2017 that no one can seem to fathom. Checked bonnet sensor and all the usual. Can I ask where you foind the part number for your Fabia so you knew whatto order? I might try the same thing. Cheers.

Hi all. The blower fan unit behind the glovebox in my 2017 Superb (190 sportline estate 6sp DSG diesel) is sticking every now and again, and then coming on unprompted. I've had the cabin filter out and had a look with a mirror and there seems to be some corrosion on the cetre spindle (others have reported water ingress damage as a common fault to the spindle and bearing) which may be causing the sticking. Aparently, if caught quickly, the unit can be dropped and the spindle cleaned up / bearing lubricated, with it going on to operate fine after said attention. My question is: has anyone managed to drop the blower unit successfully, and if so, how? I've had the golebox door off, and gotten upside down and managed to remove the cover above the footwell, and can see that there's an elsectrical connection and five long T20 or T25 bolts that hold the blower unit in. I've had those out but it's solidly in place. I don't want to put any excessive force on it so stopped and am now posting here for advice. I've seen videos of people successfully doing it on the Superb MK2, and numerous Golfs, that seem straight forward but this doesn't seem so. Any direction greatfully received. Many thaks Toby

I'm just updating here as it's been so long. So. With a new genuine sensor, nothing has changed. I'm still getting the really weird things where the blower just comes n for no reason and stays on after the engine is switched off. I still have to pull the 30amp fuse to get it to stop. I've become quite good at doing it quickly. Interestingly, when I turn the engine back on, it stops for a split second then starts again. This is with the tracker and the dashcam completely disconnected. I give up!!! Thanks to everyone who contributed. It's genuinely appreciated. I'm going to starts a fresh post about dropping the fan unit as I can see it needs some TLC

Hi there. Just spotted this and wondered if you remember which fuse you finally settled on piggybacking on? I'm having a nightmare with mine and the drain is creating lots of false issues, warning lights etc. Just need to know which fuse to swap to. Cheers

Hi all, I can't find a similar post for a Superb, only an Octavia and the assembly around the glovebox is different. I'm working my way through a trouble shooting list and when I remove the filter behind the glovebox, I can see that the top of the fan shaft is corroded. Apparently this is common and can be sorted with the right lubricant on the shaft and bearing. My issue is I can't drop the fan and motor unit out. I'm wondering if anyone has removed this on a Mk3 and if there is a process I can follow? I've removed the soft cover below the glovebox, and all off the retaining bolts, but it aint shifting. I'm hoping there's a knack, and I don't have to take the glovebox surround off entirely as it has the small blower, light and release catch attached. Any direction is appreciated. Many thanks

I've been quiet on this. Just as an update, I've ordered a new OEM Air Quality sensor anyway and will se if that helps thimgs. I'll update when it's been installed. I'm also going to remove and lubricate the blower fan. I can see, when I remove the filter above it, that trhere is corrosion on the top. Apparently this is a commoin issue that can be easily rectified. I'm going to start a new thread as I can't get the unit out. I'll close this one off for the original issue once solved. Cheers all

Hi fella, Whe you say black 460 relay, do you know ehere that relay was located? I can't find the post you're referring to. Cheers

Maybe. Although it was a one off occurance and I'd been driving for an hour before it suddenly came on. As soon as I pulled up, amd turned the engine off, it went again.

Thanks mdpslm, The battery is relatively new (about 6 months) and was coded in properly. I've been away for a few days but the disconnect of the dash cam and tracker are the next step for sure. Same with the tow bar. All are currently piggy backed into the fuse box. I have noticed that if I don't drive it for a few days the voltage drop caused by the dashcam causes havoc in terms of ghost warnings. It regularly tells me tat the keyless isn't working when it clearly is. Interestingly, I can find several Octavia and Golf posts where people are having an identical fault. Blower suddenly coming on and having to pull the 30amp fuse to stop it, no heating or ait con etc. Not one has a solution though. I'll do the basic first and will get a proper read on it before I do anything else. I'm leaning towards buying a Ross-Hex setup for future understanding of what's going on. I'll post any updates

Top stuff!! Thanks