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OK, so I've found a helpful pic elsewhere that shows the pinouts. I've managed to get FM radio sorted with the supplied cables, wires, connectors. Now just need to see if can use the existing DAB antenna, so I don't have to faff around with running cables behind glove box, and up the inside of the pillar, and sticking it on the windscreen. Not concerned with the GPS antenna connection too much as I'm using Android Auto, and it seems to be picking up the signal via my phone's GPS.

Hello, I have an RNS315 unit in my Yeti. I have purchased an xtrons unit to replace it with. I want to know which cables in the car are which. As in which one is radio, which one is DAB, and which one is GPS. My aim, if possible, is to use the existing cables and connect them to the new unit, rather than connect the new antenna to windscreen and such. Bad pic of the 3 cables disconnected from RNS315 attached. I think white one at the top is the radio antenna, which does FM and possibly AM radio. Which one of the remaining two at the bottom is which (DAB, GPS) please? Thanks 🙂

I've carried 2 bikes, but with front wheels removed, and one side rear seat also removed. My car has the spare wheel so slightly raised boot. I did try to get the whole bike in with wheel attached, but it was not gonna happen easily

The page is tabbed, which is why it shows only one video. There's a tab called "Software Update", and within that are two videos. The one I was referring to is:

I've had the device connected to laptop, by USB inside the house, and it has updated the firmware, after which I've plugged into car, and it works. This seems to be confirmed by the video on this page (2nd video, not the registration one). The firmware is updated without needing to have it plugged into car. A very remote possibility is that the USB port on your computer isn't supplying enough power to the entire dongle? Is it a USB 3, and fairly modern computer?

After the really cold spell in December, I remember opening the passenger door and it feeling quite sticky. Week later, discovered wet mats and carpet. Silicone sprayed the door seals, and in my case, that was it. To dry the inside of the car, after soaking up as much as possible with a sponge, I stuck a shedload of cat litter into an old pillowcase, and left it in the footwell. Took about a week for the damp smell to go away.

Not replaced it myself, but there are definitely alternative units available that will fit the Yeti. There's a guide where someone in Ireland has replaced his with an Xtrons unit, not sure you'd get those in Oz. Kenwood units also fit, with a couple of adapter cables for making the steering wheel controls work. In the UK, a lot of the failures are related to the touch screen, and there are one or two well recommended repairers. If it's just the screen that's busted on yours, perhaps an option for you to get that replaced? Worth getting in contact with a car audio specialist in Sydney or your nearest big city/town. I'm sure I've seen/read someone in Oz doing a head unit replacement, not sure if it was here, the other yeti forum, one of the facebook pages, or just on Youtube. Replacing it is not terribly difficult, as long as you've got all the right bits. 4 torx screws, a plastic trim removal tool (or credit card, if you're brave), is all it takes to get the unit to slide out.

I had the 54hp cdi, but I drove it like I stole it! It was hilarious overtaking massive ECO engined cars on the motorway, but not so much when it was a tad windy! 🤣

Yeah, I've also got a 2.0 TDI DSG, and in the 3k miles I've done, no problems (touch wood), but one goes down rabbit holes with new toys, and that's how I've ended up at looking into getting the fix reversed. If my car's original file can't be found, then I'll have no choice but to keep things as they are, and hope none of the alleged fix problems manifest. Currently getting a not terrible 42-47mpg, so it's not even a fuel consumption concern for me. ****ty little smart car I had was at best giving me 50mpg, so not the end of the world.

Well, the fixed cars seem to have reported reduced power, increased engine noise, increased regens on the dpf, worse throttle response, and potential injector issues, so getting the rollback is actually considered a useful spend of cash. Even without either remap or tuning box, just having the original ECU file is touted as an improvedment. I'll keep trying to find the original file for my car, get that put back on, and then drive the car for a while before going down the tuning route.

The initial plan was to get a rollback and a stage 1 remap, but I'm leaning more towards the tuning box as it gives me options to tune up/down within it's 7 custom maps. I'm hesitant to get tuning box or a remap whilst my car is running a fix file, but don't know enough about the implications. Any thoughts?

Ah, gotcha! So I need to find a tuner who has a copy of 6356 file, or not bother! I really want the car rolled back, although I don't currently have any issues, and it's done 73k miles, 3kish in my hands. Ideally if I can get it rolled back, I want to get a tdi tuning box and run it at a medium level of tune, similar to a stage 1 map write. I might ask on the FB reversal group if someone has the requisite file, and aren't 200 miles away from me! Really grateful for your investigative help, varooom! Thank you!

Thanks varooom! That's really useful info. I think the tuner left 9977 on my car when he'd been so that's why I've got that instead of the previous 9979! Is the second part of your message suggesting that I could consider 6356 or 6360 files for my car, at my own risk? What is the worst case scenario if one of these files is loaded on, given it's a high probability that's what it left factory with? Bricked ECU?

Yes, agreed. But even the tuner who came out to me couldn't find one older/ pre-fix number on his tuning software's server database! This is despite me asking him before confirming to check that a pre-fix file was available. He said he'd only know once he plugged his laptop into my car's OBD2 port.

Should I post the log here, or send it to you as a private message? Not sure if it has any "sensitive" data, other than my VIN and VINID...

I don't have any log files from before the NoX update, as I bought the car with the fix on it. I do have VCDS, so can get a fresh log file, if that would give any clues? Thanks!

I need some help with finding a suitable file to rollback to. The VCDS reading suggests a 9979 file on the ECU. When a tuner plugged in software, it suggested the earliest file available was 9977, which is still a fix file. My VAG number ends in SE, which apparently has something to do with what files are available. Before I had the tuner come out, I'd checked the flashfile.de website, and it confirmed that only 3 files were available based on my VAG number, 9977, 9978, and 9979. Is there a way to work out what file would be suitable for my car? It's a March 2015 Elegance 170bhp, DSG. If no pre-fix file is available, is it worth getting the earliest of the fix files, 9977, put on?

Thank you. Been here a while, before I bought my Yeti. I got mine at 71k miles, and it now has close to 74k. I'll be changing the oil when I've done 5k miles, as well as the other above bits.

⬅️name 2015 Elegance 170. Soon to be remapped to approx 210. EA189 fix to be rolled back as well. Currently on a 9979 file. Boring dark grey or really light black (was too much of a deal to care about the colour). Location: S.E. England Heko wind deflectors, angry Yeti sticker, new air and pollen filters, and throttle body degunked, EGR nozzle rotated. Rear discs and pads replaced with Pagids Next will be DSG service in December, and Haldex in around Feb/ March. Keep thinking about a new infotainment unit, but am content with current Amundsen MIB 1, and Google maps on the phone.

Kenwood DMX8020DABS has wireless CarPlay and Android Auto. There is a Double Din fitting kit that contains a cable to connect to steering wheel controls. Not sure the parking sensors work with this unit. Unit cost - £650 - It is a mechless unit, meaning NO CD PLAYER! Fitting kit - £136 - was £99 just last week! If you're not bothered about wireless Carplay and Android Auto, you could go for the 8019DABS model, possibly around £100 less, but finding them, now that Kenwood have released the 8020, is another matter! If you really need something for rear parking, you could look at getting a lowline or highline rear camera, but the fitting would be a long process, and labour charge would be in the region of £200-250. I've had a labour cost for infotainment replacement quoted to me at £150, but I think it's easy enough to do yourself, as you've already probably taken the trim off, and unscrewed the broken unit out. My first port of call in your situation would be to call Ant, as mentioned in another reply. He is highly recommended on the Amundsen repair work.

I think, on balance of things, I'm not interested in this car, as I'd not want to undertake the door ding repair, and as much as I want, the high mileage is a bit of a turn off as well. I keep telling myself that these cars are fine for high mileages, but I'm a "one spanner" maybe "two spanner" level DIYer, so 60/70k miles is probably my sweet spot.

Exactly this. Went to see a Yeti yesterday at a dealer. SO SO Shiny under the showroom lights! Got a little torch out and scanned the body work, and boom, suddenly, it looks like the car was a cat scratching post. Torch light trick shown to me by a motorcycle mechanic friend 🙂

Seen this on Autotrader! https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202207107653526 Needs a better pic of the ding on there.

Thanks mate! Will give him a call next week!

Hi all, I'm looking for a SKODA Yeti with the following spec. I'm regularly scouring eBay, Autotrader and Gumtree, but mostly full of traders with their dealer shenagigans. MUST HAVES: 2 litre Diesel Auto 4WD Full service history, or at least proof of the important bits having been done (Haldex, DSG, Cambelt, Waterpump). DAB Radio (so probably Amundsen info unit, rather than Bolero) WOULD BE NICE TO HAVES: Towbar Park assist Leather seats DON'T WANT: Anything older than 2015 Not interested in the L&K coz I actually don't like sunroofs! Not keen on the 170 So I reckon it'd have to be either an SE-L or an Elegance Oh, ideally somewhere within 150 miles of Oxfordshire, but happy to travel a bit further for the right car.