ogpuprison

I didn't want to start a new thread just to answer a question, but i can't find any answers on the forum. I've done the SAI delete,N249/N112 and evap system mods as outlined in the 'Skoda guides' section. I have a resistor on the N112 lead, and another for the SAI pump. I was advised to just leave the N249 plugged, to avoid misfires, etc. I get the P0411 code every few days, which I can live with, but it got me thinking. Will the car fail the MOT on emissions due to these deletes? All the info suggests having a catch can and re-routing some of the hoses is actually cleaner all round. No-one has brought up MOT's in relation to these deletes; and it seems doing the deletes is really common. Has anyone had emissions fails at MOT since doing the deletes? And how did folks get around the MOT as a result? Thanks

glad I looked at this post- I'm getting my turbo looked at later this week and although the guy is a vw/ 1.8T specialist, I'd be surprised if he's aware of this difference across engine models (mine's an AUQ too and there's an oil leak on my turbo..somewhere...)

All I can say is, it's worked for me! Car seems smoother somehow, and fuel economy has improved. Could be the new DV valve, could be the deletes, could be replacing hoses when installing the catch can. I've been driving around for about ten days since I did all this- on day 3, I got engine light P0411 (secondary air intake incorrect flow). Erased it expecting it to come back but it hasn't yet. One thing I did, because it was playing on my mind, was to buy an upgraded crankcase breather pipe adaptor. The existing 90 degree pipe was pretty new, but the tension of the new hose was pulling it down a bit, cos my 'U' clip didn't clamp very well. (I actually tried making one but it was difficult and no better). So I got the 'upgraded' adaptor and tweaked the hose in this area, cos I wanted to get things as airtight as I could I also made a simple retainer to keep that damn 'U' clip in place (probably overkill, the new fitting seems well seated and doesn't move) This is just one snag I encountered, and dealt with, that others may find useful

I got all the work done after about 2 weeks; I've put my progress in the ' OCC install' thread Bowders wrote (Octavia 'guides' section). No point in repeating it here. After doing it, the whole system makes a lot more sense now. Car is much smoother and fuel economy has improved; I probably do still have air leaks in places but haven't yet done a simple vacuum test (I'm just happy I got it all done without assistance, apart from the guides and help on this forum). Oil leak is still there but much reduced; it's the turbo pipes I think.I'll leave that to a professional, I don't really know where to start and might make things worse

Just finished. Car starts and goes/brakes but haven't tried it properly yet. I'm worn out! Will update on the issues later, need a wash first! Thanks to all the heads on this forum who provided the 'how-to's'...esp. Bowders. Main problem was hopeless jubilee clips and the damn 19mm hose being too chunky to bend, etc. And the spring retaining clip on the manifold 90degree section. Talk about ripped up hands....who designed that was one evil guy. The one-use hose clips were another nightmare; I expect I've punctured some other hoses but I'll find out in a bit. I left the N249 plugged in, on the advice of someone who knows this stuff. Resistor on the N122 line. Air pump still in the engine, but redundant- gave up trying to get it out. No error codes...yet

no I think that's my mistake...there IS another short pipe from the 'T' which leads back to the left-hand side of the manifold, god knows what I pulled out of the right-hand nipple, can't recall where it led to. Car seems to work ok though. Isn't there a pipe coming from that area which relates to the brake booster? Apologies I've had my face in the engine bay all week doing the deletes/catchcan and all these pipes start to look the same. Don't want to dish out incorrect information

Bit late this answer but as I'm doing this right now- this 'how to' assumes you've done the SAI delete, which involves taking that feed from the nipple and running it up to the top of the divertor valve. I know cos I've just bust my DV in the process! So the 'T' piece becomes redundant. Just in case anyone else is doing this install these days

All went to plan (following this guide) until I snapped off the nipple on the DV valve! It's the Bosch one, looked a bit too shiny to be the original but who knows? Anyway that's VW hose clips for you, the devil's work. The rain didn't help, had to run for cover all the time. Fortunately I have Creation Motorsport about 30 mins away so will throw more cash at this crazy project, and get a new DV (they sell aluminium ones). Which spring should I put in it? It comes with three; my vrs is a stage one map but nothing else upgraded. Despite this I'm getting better at this ho ho

whoa getting my combi valve out was like fighting with a gorilla; Bowders didn't mention the bunch of hardlines and other stuff screwed into the back of the combi valve plate. Maybe his was different but it was tough and I expect I've gouged some bits I shouldn't have. Tomorrow I'll put the plate on, and the coolant assembly; then get chopping out the hoses in the N249 area. I made progress today; if the OCC install is this tricky... ...I'll die...

I heard it's advisable to keep the N249 plugged in, to avoid misfires. Which would mean no resistor for that part of the process. Any thoughts?...

I know this is going off-topic, but it's all related, right? An update on my progess with deletes/ OCC install/oil leak. We got a new sump fitted, no drama there except one rusted bolt which nearly wrecked the whole mission. Changing a sump cos of a bad bolt nearly scuppered by another bad bolt; old cars, eh? Seems liuke my oil leak has slowed a lot; thats what started me on this merry go round of 'improvements'. It's a lot less spotty on my cardboard drip-tray, that's for sure. So started my deletes/catchcan operation- slow progress, already hit some snags. can't get the allen bolts which hold the air pump cradle to the engine; I'm still on the first one! Just won't budge, and access is hopeless. I'm considering just leaving it in place, having removing the air pipes and put a resistor on the connector. Half thinking of angle grinding it off but that's asking for trouble, there's gotta be fuel lines close by.. Hoping for better progress tomorrow. At least I'll be upright rather than stuggling in a gravel road

aw this is vrs porn, and my poor car is still in a sick state! Spent hours under the car today, unsuccessful mission to extract the sump bolt. No dice, I just can't pull outward and keep the pry screwdriver in place simultaneously- need another dude. You know the sump bolt is in a recess, it's well awkward. Ordered a new sump so if it comes to it, there's a plan B. Such a bummer! So all the deletes and catch can stuff will have to wait- I'm not fitting a new sump on my own. Hopefully with a few threats and sweet talking I can get someone to help me do the sump in the next week, do the oil change....and then get back to where I was .More soon

Creation Motorsport are not far from me, but not sure if I like their catchcan kit- looks lie one of the cheap ones on ebay with some hose thrown into the deal (£67)

thanks bullet-guy! Yes this forum has supplied all the info I need to at least do the SAI, N249,N112 deltes and, if I get that far, then fit a catch can. Hopefully the piggyback sump plug will arrive tomorrow- until I've sorted that out, I'm not ordering £250 of parts. Everyone keeps telling me I'm crazy to attempt this, but I've had such a series of hassles from garages, it's down to me. Still don't know if i can start on the deletes and arrive at a point that allows me to drive the car- probably inadvisable. Cos it's likely to take a few days and I expect problems along the way I'll try not to ask too many questions - I expect a lot of the folks who have contributed to the 'Octavia Mk 1' sub-forum have moved onto other cars by now. The posts are over ten years old thanks for the help so far !

An update on this oil leak/boost issue. I went to a new garage which had been recommended to me. Hoping for an understanding expert who might help me out. I was wrong, and left the place super-depressed! As soon as I arrived, it was a total downer. One of those garages more akin to a showroom, pristine floor and very little actual work going on. The guy complained about my drivers' seat (crumbs and whatnot) and went and got a seat cover for himself. Then he expressed his disgust at the quality of the rocker gasket install done by another mechanic. 40 minutes later he'd done a VCDS and then gave me a load of vague possibilities,; basically he didn't want the job, let's leave it at that. His 'report' suggested the following- -turbo electrovalves slow and worn ( I assume he means the actuator on the wastegate) oil leaks on the turbo in/out pipes -SAI valve and orifices blocked -Lambda sensor 1 faulty heater -air leaks causing the evap system to malfunction rear main seal leaks oil intake manifold gasket brittle causing boost leak and oil leak The printout identified P0411, P1602, P0507, P0135. All these faults point towards doing the SAI delete and Eap system delete; so that's my plan. He quoted £2000 which might have been to scare me off (and probably assuming the turbo is finished). Whichever way, he's not my guy. I am so upset; I knew the car is in a mess, but nothing that can't be addressed. In fact, if his attitude had been different I would have said 'yes' there and then (even though that's money I don't have!). So I'm gonna do the deletes myself and fit an OCC. If I get that far, I'll know whether the wastegate actuator can be changed or not, and should be getting better at this stuff by then. That'll mean no car for a bit . No guarantee it's going to solve anything but you have to address these issues one by one. Before any of this though, I just found my oil sump plug is spinning!! It's not leaking but I gotta get it out and fit an oversize 'piggyback' bolt first, so I can change the oil! Thanks for reading - had to get this off my chest

I'm probably going to be the last person in history to attempt this! Unfortunately I'll have no car for about a week, and that's if things go to plan. Garry C said 'we did this on a sunday morning' - this will take me days!! Even if I were to fit the resistors first, I'm pretty sure I couldn't drive with pipes missing and open holes in the manifold, etc. So what's the suggested order of procedure? Remove SAI, N249, N112, then the Evap system.... then fit a catch can? I've been trying to figure out the cost- and sourcing the lengths of hose. I've got issues with lack of boost and oil leaks, and the VCDS report seems to make this project even more worthwhile (secondary air injection valve blocked,evap system malfunction due to leaky gaskets, turbo leaking a bit on input and output). Still don't know if my turbo is shot or if my power loss is due to leaks of air and oil across the system(s).Report also mentioned wastegate and turbo bypass valves being worn /slow to open and close. But the guy didn't reckon the turbo is wrecked, or at least he didn't say that!

Dean- thanks for the heads up. The SAI removal/etc is a bit involved but I'm sure I can manage it- in fact, the vacuum tube hoses by the dipstick could well be at fault- that would explain my low boost/ bad economy issue. Whether it has anything to do with my oil leak, I wouldn't know. The hose kit I bought had the vacuum tube assembly included, which I didn't fit. Maybe I should. It looks well complex to me, but I've got my head around the engine bay now so it could be a job for sunday. I've been pointed to a supposedly good mechanic though, at the very least I'm gonna get him to get his VCDS on it. Might tell me something. Incidentally, what does N249 /N112 refer to?

I managed to get the whole lot changed over the last two days. My primary concern is the oil leak; after getting rocker gasket replaced, next step was all the ancient hoses. So as I'd bought them, I thought I'd address the leak first- although most of the guidance on briskoda encourages the OCC and delete route. I had to read all this to help me do the job, and it sounds like the way to go. But I've done it and I'm jolly proud of myself! Wrecked my hands as expected, and have probably dropped some bits into the manifold hole-we'll see. Only had time for a 20 miunte drive to the supermarket though; and it was too dark to check on leaks. Will update tomorrow. But while it's in my mind, here's the troublesome bits- scraping and digging the broken 90 degree elbow remnants from the hole; took forever. A washer came out at the end, as well as a 4cm section of pipe.Stupidly I didn't put the washer back but I did put a new one on the new elboy. The spring clip was another struggle, as it's partly under a cable mounting plate (getting it back in was the difficult bit). the pipe that goes up from the 'T' was a hassle- I couldn't get it reach so used a section of 19mm breather pipe from a scrap vehicle, cut to size. It's not rigid plastic but I couldn't give a **** by that stage. When I first drove off, it seemed at bit jerky in first/second gear, but that was probably my stress overthinking stuff (i.e; forgotten how to drive) I'll drive againtomorrow. I'm hoping for better boost, economy and whatnot, and hopefully a dry oil-free parking space! Oh yeah, the 'third' valve I mentioned was a mistake- it was simply a steel hose termination in a green shroud, that looked like a valve ..until I looked at it properly. More later

sorry mine is an AUQ 1.8T engine

I hope the good folks at Briskoda can help me get this straight, once and for all. Cos getting my head around the PCV valve/breather hose/inlet manifold set-up is driving me nuts. So much conflicting info and diagrams (not on this forum so much) has made me realise the OCC route makes sense. I've got an oil leak and have been trying to sort it out. Rocker cover gasket change= still got a leak. The two mechanics I know are being really evasive (i.e; too ****in complicated for them). So I'm currently replacing a the breather hoses. I was intending to just replace the sections one by one, to avoid mistakes, but a lot of my system has been bodged badly, and some pipes just go to fresh air!Anyways I've got as far as the 'T' and, as we all know,this area tends to disintegrate and is difficult to access. I don't really know what the clump of pipes under the dipstick plate are; I'm currently trying to get the plate out! I have found the end of the breather pipe that goes in above the dipstick / oil filter area (into the manifold) is just falling out. But I've also found there's another valve in the pipe at that point. That makes three valves! One on the 'T', one near the air filter (hockey puck) and now this one. Something strange here. No wonder my oil filler cap blows rather than sucks. Does anyone know how to fit the rigid plastic bend piece that should be in this oil filter hole? Are three valves found normally? Most info I've read suggests two. And I haven't even got to the 'other' branch of the 'T' section. There's two great threads on briskoda covering this- but they're old and if I were to ask there, I'll probably get no answer since they're 2013 or something. And they don't cover the issues I'm bumbling my way through, like removing the dipstick plate, orientation of the two 'green' valves, and why my oil filler blows (Negative crankcase ventilation, if you like). I intend to keep my VRS for at least another year and a daft oil leak is not gonna beat me.This is probably the reason the boost is poor, economy of fuel is down and the leak itself. Thanks people

I replaced the oil pick-up pipe a couple of years back, in cars this old the pipe does get blocked and it can lead to allsorts of issues. Parts may be cheap, but it took me and a knowledable mate a good few hours to do the sump drain/clean and puttting everything back together. Think we did the throttle body input while we were at it, and obviously did an oil and filter change. oil pick-up pipe is a common source of trouble in these cars, apparently.

I'd love to raise the height of my vrs but it's a bit of an unnecessary expense I reasoned. Those spacers I've seen, cost about £140 for all 4, to get an extra 30mm...just worried it'll change the handling too much and I'll crash. No doubt the insurers will need to know as well. Roads are really bad after winter as everyone in the UK knows too well

Well, fuses are there for a reason; I said to my mate,'why do we need a fuse between alternator and battery' when the alternator has a regulator.. and he said ' cos the regulator could fail'. Well yeah, but why not carry 4 spare wheels cos you might blow 4 tyres? Sure you get my drift. But it seems more like the cable was burned up and as a result, had burned the insulation off the next cable to it (the 110A car systems cable). Or the other way round. I've driven loads since I repaired it, the cable insulation and fusebox cover all look in good condition, so I'l just keep an eye on it. I did go a scrapyard in cheltenham today and tried pulling an altetrnator cable out of a Golf (07 plate) but it was too hard without any tools. I might go back and get it (<£10 he said) if I can figure out how it comes out. I don't think it's part of a larger loom so should be possible

Actually I didn't take any pictures but here's what's left of the fusebox cover! I've driven about 150 miles since doing it, took a look today ands looks un-melted thus far. It is still hot on the alternator cable side of the new box, sadly...so one day I need to trace the alternator cable and see if there are any other sections that are corroded/exposed/whatever. But the weather is so **** I can't face it right now

...all done, but had to exchange the loop connectors for ones with a 6mm hole. I only cut off about a centimetre as there wasn't much slack to play with; scrubbed up the end, then used flux and solder to reduce oxidation Getting them onto the cable itself was a struggle but they crimped up good. Let's see how long the fusebox lasts this time