Darealspoon

Sorry for the double post, but do you know if disconnecting this unit is going to mess up the alarm in anyway? I know it has the motion sensors on it.

Yep, I've tried the former to no avail. Switch works at either extreme... Ie to turn both lights on or off, but not at the central position for coming on with the door. Will have it down when I get chance and follow the process you've suggested and report back 👍

So I picked up our 2015 superb greenline 3 (mk2 face-lift) last night. All good bar one thing, unfortunately there's an issue with the interior lights that I hadn't picked up when viewing it during the day (doh!) The interior ceiling lights don't come on when either opening the doors, unlocking or removing ignition key. They work manually on the individual buttons no problem. Ours is the version with the 3-way rocker switch between the 2 domed lights. Central position being 'door' setting. The doorcard lights, footwell lights, boot and puddle lights all work as expected. So do the 2 pinhole LED's on the ceiling, which I presume are to illuminate the gearstick at night or something? I've seen a few other similar discussions so I've briefly checked the passenger carpet for damp, all good. However, I think this was more an issue on the mark 3's? Can't imagine fuse as the lights are working individually. So what else can I check, look at myself??

That's good to hear gammy, thanks

Thanks for the info. We live quite rurally so even the daily school run is a 45 minute round trip where it gets up to a decent temperature. We also do regular longer motorway journeys. Our last octy was getting 50mpg mostly, that'd creep up to 55+ on longer runs. Hopefully the superb will be at least equivalent or better. Both me and the missus drive pretty reasonably, especially been as the kids are usually in the back. I think they all have dpfs now, no? I wouldn't mess around removing/blanking one in this car tbh. Would consider a remap for improved economy... though on a car with that high mileage, don't know?

Yeh, I would ideally go for a 2.0tdi but there's none to be found anywhere remotely local.. Not at our price range and decent. Couple of passats, but.... Well. Certainly no 2.0 petrols I can see. It's mainly going to be for school runs, but fairly long runs regularly to see family up the line. I probably will miss the power of the 2.0.. Won't I 😢 Nope, it's a 6 speed manual.

As the title suggests, our 2013 octy got flattened by an oak tree in a storm a few weeks ago. Poor thing was minding it's own business sat on our drive when the tree (not ours) decided to use the car to break its fall! Anyway, the ensuing insurance fiasco is ongoing (another story entirely), but we need a new car ASAP for life to carry on and all that. The options are pretty thin near me to be honest.. But I've found a 2015 superb 1.6 greenline iii. It's fairly high mileage at 157k but has a full service history (I've seen the documents) and the cam+pump was done at the end of 2020 @130k miles. Current owner is genuine, with decent reason to sell etc etc. Its in really good condition inside and out bar one golf ball size dent in the boot, and everything works as it should. Runs fine, drives fine. Only advisory on the last mot was for sub frame corrosion, but I've spoken to the garage that did it and they've said it was no big deal, there was just a bit of surface rust so it had to be noted. Also, we live by the coast... Pretty much everything in our budget will have that going on. Other things are likely to cause it's demise before the subframe rusts out, is my thinking. I've managed to get him down to £5300... But there's no more budging on that, fair enough. Just wondering what people think about it generally, sound OK? ... I've never had a 1.6 and the only thing I've ever bought with higher mileage was a PD engine Octy, which predictably ended up being mumra the ever living mechanically 😂 Advice much appreciated 👍

Yep, I ended up having to change the rack, and had a new battery put in at the same time. Tried everything possible to avoid it but ultimately the rack had failed. My octy had a gen 7 rack in it (not sure why) a better rack apparently but new from vw they're £1600! I got a reconditioned one from PSR direct for £350! 2 year warranty and they were absolutely brilliant to deal with, really recommend using them. Cars been fine since 🤞

Yep, it does seem like a worthwhile investment... Even if it doesn't pay off for this case. I have a autel Maxilink ML619 that's served me well... But its obviously limited. I know there's tons of threads, but it's probably alot quicker to get a reply on here. From what I've read, obdeleven is slightly more user friendly, baring in mind my level of mechanics, brake pads, servicing, simple component swaps, it seems that it might be more suitable for me than a full vcds. And cheaper.... There's so many options and models, Would this enable e me to code the battery and see me right for the future? https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBDeleven-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Advanced/dp/B08K94L4JS/ref=asc_df_B08K94L4JS/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=463218305272&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13258492857863553672&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045283&hvtargid=pla-980348137854&psc=1

Since they put the new batt in, the stop start has returned, so perhaps it's recognised the new battery (perhaps the incorrect one it has replaced was never coded) Can it only be coded using vcds? Because I know they don't have it, hence why they got the autoelec in previously...

They've tried doing the calibration, I don't know if that's the same thing? Ie, wheel lock to lock etc Yes, you're right. Which is something I'm concerned with, the guy at PSR was also fairly certain that with everything thing else that's been done, if the only 2 codes remaining are those 2... That it's rack, or at least an internal element of the rack. In terms of the new battery, they've said everything else is fine, no other fault codes etc... So I presume that means they've coded it?

Would it be obvious if they haven't, ie would nothing be working essentially?

Yep, I hear your point and I've considered it, both ways are a gamble to be honest.. Ive found a company, PSR direct (lion automotive effectively) who will either recon my own rack or supply me with a reconditioned rack they have already. Same price either way, £313 Inc vat and collect/delivery. It comes with a 2 year warranty (30k miles per year) Obvs there's still the labour to remove/fit on that. However, it's significantly cheaper than the cheapest new rack I could find (£605+vat) and comes with at least some assurance over a scrapped one from ebay. 🤷‍♂️

Just to add- This is with a new agm battery that's been tested for charge so presumably alternator is doing what it should. They've checked all the connections going down to the rack and they're all reading fine, fuses OK etc. It's just the rack itself is not registering... He reckons the rack in there is a recon one, as it looks painted 🤷‍♂️ So I guess my next question is this. He's quoted me £605+vat for the new rack. Does anyone know if and where I can find one cheaper??

Got a text from the mechanic this morning saying it still has the internal failure and ecu internal failure fault codes...

Yep, they're great for general stuff but ordinarily for something like this I'd have taken it to the indy VAG group specialists who look after our T4 but they were stacked up for weeks and they're a bit further away... I'm not holding my breath... The parts cannon may yet need to be fired! 😅

The plot thickens! I relayed the issue to skoda place up the line. They were happy to chat under the understanding that whatever they said couldn't be taken as canon, as they haven't seen the vehicle. The guy theres ears pricked up when I said that it had been sat for 10 days prior and that the start/stop had never worked since we got it (probably should have mentioned this in thread). He said to check it has the right battery. So, I rang the local garage... By genuine coincidence Mechanic there said he'd been thinking about it last night, and wondered the same. He's checked, sure enough it only has a standard battery and not a very healthy one. They've changed it for a healthy agm one to test and voila, the start stop is now working. The steering hasn't come back... yet, but he's going to keep tinkering to see if it will.. Try calibrating, updating or whatever, or just leaving it for a bit with a healthy battery. He reckons they've checked all the connections and they're reading as they should, and that it has (at some point) already had a new steering rack, from what they can see... Which is why, in fairness, they are being really decent in being happy to mess around trying various fixes before we go straight to new rack. Granted, they haven't got a clue... But they're a good bunch down there and aren't hiding/blagging the fact that they don't know.

Got the codes this morning, doesn't read to pretty but I'm hoping others can shed a bit more light - B200FF0 - INTERNAL FAILURE B2000F1 - ECU INTERNAL FAILURE C10D700 - COMFORT LIMITATION B1168F2 - STEERING WHEEL ANGLE SENSOR, NO INITIALIZATION

Thanks for that, I had the same thoughts regarding the garage. They're usually decent and being so local they're always honest and fair... Just think in this instance it's a case of seeing fault code and automatically moving to component change because that's the easiest solution, in a way As I said they're happy for me to investigate other possibilities before changing the rack, or for them to try stuff at my request. I might go over myself in the morning and have a poke about, check leads, battery voltage and put my scanner on it and see what code I get. Will report back 👍

Garage got a mobile autoelectrician to come out (as they don't have vagcom) and apparently what he read leads them to the conclusion of new rack, I've asked for the codes but they haven't given me them yet... Seems odd to me, I'm not implying the garage are lying or pulling as fast one at all. Just doesn't make sense for it to just 'go' with no prior steering problems. I'm half wondering if the battery is faulty and it being sat before taking it up to them has caused this, I would have assumed either them or the autoelec would have checked that though... Surely?

So my octy is still in the garage after having a new auxiliary water pump fitted (details of that are on a separate thread). That problem is now fine... The only positive 😞 Car is 13 plate 2.0tdi with 140k on the clock, doesn't necessarily matter to this issue but it has faultless service history and was clearly well looked after before we bought it, every receipt for works present. On the day I took it to the garage, I had no power steering on start up, and red steering wheel light on dash. The garage is only 100yards up the road so I just got it there anyway. There had been no steering related issues prior to this (but we'd only owned it for 6 weeks) , it had been sat for 10 days whilst waiting to head to said garage. After sorting the aux water pump issue which is booked in for they then had a look at the steering issue. I don't have the exact codes from them yet, but they've said the faults point to an entire new steering rack needed. They've given me a few options: 1. New steering rack coming in at around £1100 2. Sending it to some specialist of some kind to see if they can 'repair' it, they won't know if they can till they look at it, but if they can it'll be in the region of £200-£400 3. Lastly, he said he's more than happy to try other possibilities first to attempt in saving us from the mega bill in option 1. So I guess my question is does anyone have any specific advice after encountering similar problems? Is there anything else to check/try with these when faced with this issue?

They're our local one indy one, and about half a mile down the road so I should hope not! They're happy for me to source whichever pump it is myself and they'll fit. They're anything between £50 and £100 Charged me nowt for today which alot of places wouldn't have done. Fingers crossed

Cheers for that 👍 did it today, just took it apart cleared all the crud away from everything, gave it a lube up and its working great again 😅 The other issue - Garage plugged it in and got the same codes pretty much. It's one of two pumps but apparently they can't say which one until they get into it. They even rang VW/skoda while I was there and they confirmed... Only once you locate them and test them can you figure out which ones had it... Potentially both maybe 🤷‍♂️ booked in next week, he reckoned its fine to keep driving lightly, just said keep an eye on temps/coolant levels etc

🙁 Codes came back... Bummer. So looks like now its a mechanic job, problem the garage we usually use haven't got any availability for 2 weeks so I've got no idea whether it's safe to keep driving it in the meantime 🤷‍♂️ Fuel filler door has also stopped opening, which I know is a common one... I can probably change the actuator on that myself though I reckon.

Thanks for that. Went through the the engine bay fuses and found a 10a that was blown (not sure if it was 7) swapped it, checked what connections I could see. (all looked good) and cleared both codes. EML hasn't returned yet but cars only done a couple of miles since... So fingers crossed that's it. Though as matey says in that video, fuses rarely blow for no reason 🙄 so we'll see