Darealspoon

Thanks but softscoops advice worked. I was just pressing the wrong combo of buttons. Stereo is reset and working normally... Garage are looking at it tomorrow to see why stop/start isn't working... I'm not too bothered as I don't use it anyway, I just don't like things not working that should 😁

Ah ha! So it is, thank you... I'd also tried left+right+eject to no avail 😁

Sorry, I should have made clear... The screen is frozen, no buttons currently do anything.

We've just had a new battery fitted to our superb greenline 3. However, since picking it up earlier the stereo is now stuck on. Or won't turn off even with the keys our of the ignition etc! Ive tried holding down volume button but nothing happens. I haven't tried the 3 button method as mentioned on another thread as mine doesn't have an info button (pic attached) Just want to turn it off so it doesn't drain a new battery before I can get it back to garage. I'm also fairly certain they didn't code the new battery as the stop/start hasn't returned... Could the non-coding also cause the stereo issue?

Exactly, Ive never had any issues washing my skodas before either, but it seems like an unlikely coincidence that a brand new unit would work fine until straight after it's washed for the first time 🤷‍♂️

Update to this - so I got a new unit from autodoc for about £25 delivered. No problem to fit, and worked a treat... For 2 weeks. Took it get it washed and valeted today. Got it home and now it won't open again!! Now I'm presuming water from the wash has got in there again... They washed it first and then did inside, boot opened fine at that point. I'm guessing in the time of me driving it home, water had tracked in and blown the brand new unit? So my question is... Do I really have to get another new unit, might it dry out? And if so, is there anyway to stop this happening again. A hole that can be plugged or sealed up, pretty expensive to buy a new everytime it gets pressure washed 😅

Yeh I thought so too, but I've had two quotes back. One from a bodyshop who wanted to respray the entire bonnet and one from a mobile guy to do a blend in job... They both quoted £300! 😂 Probably just going to get the stuff and have a go myself. Seller gave me a £100 refund but also sent me out another smaller part I wanted that's going for between £30-50, which I'm happy with.

Thanks for the reply, yep I've had one quote so far. They said they'd only respray the whole bonnet, the only way to lose it properly and it's as much labour as blended the 2 areas a anyway. £300 +vat. Thing is I'm not after a perfect back to new finish as the rest of the car has scuffs/scrapes etc, just a half decent touch up. I'm falmouth way, so Plymouth is a bit far. Thanks anyway. Seller has offered £100 refund, not sure whether that's fair or not tbh.

I have informed the vendor, and he's offered a partial refund. I'm just trying to guage what a fair partial refund would be based on potential cost of repair. I'm not bothered about a perfect repair, but a good quality touch up, if that's even possible with those scratches.

Don't know, the carrier is nowt to do with me 🤷‍♂️ was just an ebay purchase so seller arranged all the shipping. He hasn't mentioned a figure yet for the partial refund. I'm not sure how much it would cost to have them 'repaired'.

Purchased a bonnet and matching front wing panels off ebay for the mk3 octavia I'm repairing. Unfortunately, they arrived today with 2 big gouges in different areas, see pics. These weren't there when he wrapped and shipped them. Real same as otherwise the condition is really good. The seller throughout has been great, and has offered me a partial refund. I'm just wondering what you guys think would be a fair partial refund? I paid £450 for the 3 items delivered on a pallet.

Are we talking the switch above the reg plate, that opens the boot. Or the actual latch mechanism on the inside, if that makes sense.

The boot on our mk3 octavia isn't opening from the outside. I'm sure it's either the switch on the boot exterior (above number plate) or the actual lock mechanism on the boot bottom. The boot button on the key engages the central locking, but I hear no noises from the boot. Only way I can open it at present is from inside with a screwdriver through the little access hole. Is there a way I can work out which bit needs swapping out? I've checked the other threads on this and couldn't find this answer. Apologies if I've missed it.

Grammar even 🤦

Hi, just a quick question regarding body panels. I'm looking to replace the bonnet and both front wing panels (not bumper) on a 13 plate mk3 octavia estate. I've found someone selling acceptable replacements in the correct colour. However, they're from a 14 (63) plate octavia saloon. Are the front body panels identical before I pull the trigger. Mine has the halogen headlights, the donor has the LED ones, but fro what I can see the shape of the headlights is the same.

I should probably have been a bit clearer. I had new tyres put on the front as they were down to 2mm. At the same time all 4 wheels were checked balanced and 4-point laser aligned. Wouldn't that detect sawtoothing of the rears? Just seems a bit strange that the new wheel bearing made the noise mostly go away except on downhills.

I had the front tyres changed, balanced and laser aligned... Would that not have picked up any issue with wheel/tyres?

It's really hard to describe a noise! Anyway, our skoda superb greenline 3 had a rythmic noise which sounded like it was coming from front right. It sped up and down along with the cars speed, if that makes sense. First thing I had checked was tyres, tracking and balancing... All good. Next took it to our local indy vag specialists. They reckoned it was the wheel bearing so changed it for us, which wasn't exactly cheap... But I don't doubt them when they said it needed doing. We've been going there years and we have a good relationship with them. Now, admittedly the noise is nowhere near as bad/loud and now only seems audible when going downhill... Buut its still there! I'm just wondering whether I should direct them to anything specifically? I'm pretty sure it's not a CV joint, I know what that sounds like, and this noise is more low thuddy than a true knock.

In terms of removing the old unit, the first part of this video shows the process. Just 2 torx screws. Careful removing the cables... Mine were in quite tight and took a bit of teasing to uncouple without damage. For the replacement unit, I messaged one of the Ebay sellers that had a few units for sale, albeit of the wrong part number. I asked if they could keep an eye out for the correct one for me, ending in K not B, sure enough a few weeks later I got a message. £35 delivered, it's in and working perfectly. Good luck 👍

Ah magic, worth the difference in price to risk a 2nd hand unit then and hope the rocker switch is in a better state. Thanks so much for your help Jay 👍

Great! And that bit doesnt require any soldering, that was just for your Led swap?

This is a pic of the K, mine, has that additional yellow wire linking up the middle sensor. Here's the B version with just the red cable going from either side. No other difference I can see, visually, same connectors etc. Are you saying that potentially either will work? I can just take the 3rd sensor from my 'K' one, yellow wires included and it'll plug and play into the 'B' version. If so, great. I assumed maybe the wrong one would cause some sort of error, issue somewhere.

Thanks, sadly I don't solder at all (maybe time to learn) so I was looking to swap the whole unit. Annoyingly, there's several on ebay for between £30-£40, but they are all part number 3T0 947 105-B... Mine is 3T0 947 105-K From what I've worked out, the difference between the k and the b is a third sensor. No K's available anywhere other than Skoda-parts for £150. Still better than local skoda main dealer, £250 😕

Just to update - I've had some moderate success with this, in the sense I know exactly what the problem is now (i think) I dropped the unit down, and if I play with that rocker switch just so, pressure in exactly the right place - the lights work exactly as they should, but you can hear and see it fizzing and sparking across the contact. The metal part the switch contact slides along has a gouge/groove worn in it. So I'm guessing when it's sat in the middle position, it's sort of in mid air rather than contacting the metal. Without the surgically precisoned pressure, it doesn't work at all. I'm going to have a brief chat with an autospark and see if basically he can fix it less than the price of a new unit (£150). All the 2nd hand ones I'm seeing are pretty grotty condition wise. Hope this helps anyone else with similar

Thank you, thats really useful. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to get the unit down to have a good look and check for damage. I've see on skodaparts you can buy the whole thing for new £150... Does seem alot but I'd probably go that route (or a scrap one), I'm happy with mechanical diy and parts swapping but electronics/soldering I'm not that familiar with.