billwin

Have you managed to remove the lock? I had similar on three locks on a 2007 Fabia and it was due to poor electrical contacts within the lock mechanism. In all cases I was able to thump the door near the lock while operating the central locking key and eventually the door unlocked. On one door I had to use a rubber mallet.

I can't answer many of your questions, but one point you made: the trunk (boot?) would only open after you opened a rear door, That was a symptom of our car due to faulty driver's door lock. It's a security feature that stops the boot opening while you are in the car. The microswitch in the driver's door lock should signal to the central locking that the boot can be opened. If faulty, it doesnt. The rear door locks do the same when they are opened. Not sure what you meant when you said you had installed an aftermarket remote in the driver's door. Hope someone familiar with the wiring can answer the other questions. @Breezy_Pete may be able to help you

I've heard of something similar on older Fabias, when the microswitch in the door lock goes faulty. Even though the door is unlocked and opened, the switch doesn't operate and tell the locking system that the door actually opened. This also prevents the tailgate opening until one of the other doors is opened and affects the lights warning alarm and interior courtesy light. Son's Fabia suffered this problem.

Sorry, I don't know if the part changed. Son's Fabia is 07 reg. Photos on auction site look identical for MK1 and MK2 and one advert I found states it covers both. But may depend on other factors.

It looks like the one I took apart with help from a YouTube video. Prob best to view that but take photos, there are a couple of springs that have to go back in the right place. The motor actuator housing comes away from the lock mechanism with a lever between the two. When bringing the two parts back together the lever has to be in the correct position to fit into the slot in the lock mechanism. I don't know what part you're replacing but in the three I've changed it seems to be wear and tear in the metal cam that drives the micro switch and in the plastic screw driven mechanism that operates the lock mechanism. I couldn't find exactly what had failed, just replaced the whole thing. There are a couple of plastic ramp clips that have to be released to pull the two housings apart.

When son's rear door lock failed (see my other post, I've changed three) I resorted to a rubber mallet to hit the door while operating the central locking to get it to release. Otherwise I don't know how I'd have managed to change the lock. Double locking prevents it opening from the inside.

I did understand you don't have remote central locking. I was just trying to explain in our case the key would operate the faulty lock and all others, but the 'normal' method won't operate the faulty lock. The thumping on the door to occasionally get the lock to work is the same as I had with son's door lock. As Breezy_Pete said, motor and lock are in one unit.

Are there any videos on YouTube? I changed locks on the MK1 Fabia and the videos were a great help. My learning points were: Needed a splined tool to unbolt the lock from the door. Long torx driver to loosen the door handle and release the handle to lock fitting. The lock comes out with the inner metal door panel. Window glass has to be released from winder mechanism. I had to drill rivets to remove the inner door panel, I hope yours is bolted. Good luck

When you use the key, does it operate the central locking on the other doors? I had this with son's MK1 Fabia, 2007. Remote wouldn't reliably lock or unlock driver's door but did operate all other doors. Key in driver's door operated all doors. The driver's door lock needed replacing and all good now. Sometimes I could encourage the driver's door lock to work with the remote by repeatedly thumping the door near the lock while operating the key fob. If this works for you then it's the lock but you get a sore hand!

Maybe another clue? I've also had issues with son's Fabia MK1 2007 locks (reported yesterday) When the driver's door lock failed, the central locking on the key fob would lock all other doors but not the driver's. But I could lock the driver's door with the key and it would also operate the central locking on the other 3 doors plus tail gate. Same with unlocking. Key would unlock drivers and all others but key fob wouldn't unlock the driver's door. Does your car have double locking?

I'm no expert on this but son's Fabia had no AC cooling even after recharging. Turned out to be the front mounted radiator fan which has to turn to enable the AC to function. But his heater did work so maybe not your problem.

Just for info. Fabia 2007. Over the past three years I've replaced driver's door lock and both rear door locks due to them failing to release. Fortunately with all locks they could be 'encouraged' to release by banging on the door near the lock while operating the key fob. Bit of a pain as the internal panel is rivetted in place. I examined the old locks and the actual motor seems clean and spins ok. It seems to be an intermittent failure in the plastic cam driven by the motor thread. Also the micro switch cam was worn on one of the locks which affected tailgate opening and interior lights. Replaced with locks for about £22 off a well known auction site.

Just to conclude this post. The pump motor is separated from the impeller using a rubber bung to keep the water from reaching the motor. I think this should be a fairly tight fit while still allowing the motor shaft to spin. In my new motor the bung slips out fairly easily and doesn't make a water tight seal. I'll try wrapping a couple of turns of PTFE tape around the bung and hopefully produce a working pump that doesn't leak.

The original pump is 1k6 955 651. The eBay replacement quoted the same number so should be the right one for £8. I did find the old pump could be disassembled easier, the cylinder on the side could be pulled off, rubber O rings sealed the connection pipes. (The new unit is all glued) Then I could split the cylinder where an internal seal was leaking causing the initial problem. Wrapped a bit of PTFE tape around it, pressed everything back together and it seems pretty water tight.

As the supplier has refunded and doesn't want the pumps returned, I've started to dismantle one to see what's wrong. I'm that sort of person. The vent hole is in the motor section and water has got past the impeller section into the motor. Clearly the seal is not fit for purpose and even if it didn't leak to the outside, the motor would eventually fail.