SouthernComfort

It's a known problem, the dealer is just playing you ($360 to look at it?? ha!), I'd be changing dealer at service time! I had the same problem the first time I plugged in my dashcam cable. As @vfr did, I lowered the plastic cover slightly to push the socket back in place. Just squeeze the casing each side, you'll need to jiggle it slightly but it will come away sufficiently without breaking any clips. The socket ideally needs a spot of super glue to hold in place, I didn't bother doing that so I just make sure to never remove to cable.

Well, I'm sure that'll help the OP no end 🙄

Agreed, but since the digital info isn't free (and presumably unlikely to become so), the piece of paper at each service is my solution. Might as well have kept the service books!

Much as I try to embrace new tech I am still unashamedly old-school in many ways. I miss the service books. You knew where you were and the 'stamps' meant something. Now I insist on a printout from the dealer at the completion of each service. Sadly, digital service records are the norm for most(?) makes now.

I'm not 100% convinced either, but in the absence of any other known explanation it seems plausible. I think many cars suffer similar electrical gremlins related to the 12v battery, too many electronics that don't take kindly to voltage fluctuations. I had a previous car do very similar things until the battery was changed, although the old battery was was 7 years old. Interesting that the OP still has the problem even with a replacement battery, but then it depends on their driving patterns eg. infrequent use, too many short/cold runs, etc?? Even a new battery is susceptible to voltage drops.

Had those occur once recently on my Mk4 after the car had stood unused for a couple of weeks, it had also been driven only on very short runs for a few weeks prior to that. I put it down to the battery losing juice having stood idle for too long. So far, after running more normally again the battery is fully charged and the messages have not reappeared. I've just ordered a Ctek CT5 charger so I can keep it topped up when I'm using my other car.

I use that method, I also tend to forget it's a different scenario for manual drivers. Anyway, I'm glad you got to point it out without being jumped on for trying to teach your forebears about, well, you know.....!

It's designed to keep running when you're stationary under certain conditions e.g. on an incline or engine not up to temp. It will also re-start to keep a/c running to the set cabin temp. I believe it also keeps running if the wheels are turned while stationary (although I might be wrong on that point, I'll have to take more notice!).

I wouldn't worry about deciding whether or not to use stop/start from a technical point of view, the car is designed for it and it works perfectly well. It will be like most of the other inbuilt features in the car, you'll eventually develop personal preferences for your settings which may be different to what others do. I've had my Mk4 for almost 2.5 years and after trialing various settings, turning systems on/off etc, I now leave all the default features active. It's a very competent car and find it entirely comfortable to live with.

You've certainly been unlucky in suffering so many problems and many of the teething issues that beset a number of early Mk4 builds. I think your dislike of "fiddly touch screen" and "lane hinderance system" are probably more subjective opinion rather than actual faults. Also, if you covered 58k before the AC stopped blowing cold you did quite well, assuming it hadn't been re-gassed in that time. My MY23 has been one of the best cars I've owned. All the earlier issues had been ironed out by then. I too would would buy another Skoda in a heart beat.

Mine also came with the space saver as standard, and I'm fine with it. It gets you out of a mess but also makes sure you get the punctured wheel fixed quickly, who wants to ride around with a space saver on for longer than necessary? With a full size matching spare there's a greater risk of sticking the punctured one in the boot and forgetting about it!

Not all dealer service techs are born equal. I too have had no issues with my dealer. Changing to another product won't guarantee a better car or dealer service, so better keep your Basil branch handy for the future, just in case...😜

I'm the same, it's just instinctive to use the shifter button like a lever. At least the quadrant is in the same PRND sequence. I think I can see how someone unaccustomed to automatics might get the buttons and P's mixed up. I suppose we judge all things through the lens of our own experience.

I use the pouches only for storing the spare keys not in use, they sit in a drawer in my study. The key in 'current' use is kept far enough away from the garage so as not to be a problem when home. I rotate my 3 keys in turn every 4 months to use them (and their batteries) evenly.

As some of us will remember, there never used to be any confusion when most automatics (except for a couple of quirky exceptions) had a proper shift lever on the floor, or on the column: Park. Reverse, Neutral, Drive, Low (sometimes 1,2 instead of Low) which controlled the transmission. Then you had an actual hand brake which acted on the rear brakes. End of story. Nothing fundamental has changed except that now we have a bunch of buttons instead of levers. Until now it had never occurred to me that anyone would/could confuse P on the shifter 'button' with P on the e Brake 'button'...

So yes, we're really talking about the e brake, my bad for even parroting auto hold. E brake is the electric 'handbrake' which does not affect the transmission.

Auto hold just applies the electric brake, it doesn't impact the transmission. P (PARK) locks the transmission. For parking on an incline, use of the electric brake as well as P is wise, on level ground P on its own is usually sufficient.

The key is constantly trying to communicate with the car if the light is flashing. It will run the fob battery down a lot quicker than normal. To eliminate any risks either locate the key well away from the car (e.g. other end of the house) or place the key in a RFID faraday pouch to insulate the signal (faraday's are cheap to buy online).

If it comes on automatically, press the button down to release it again before you turn the engine off. I put mine in P and leave the electric brake off when it's in the garage and/or when the brakes are wet.

Very nice, congratulations on your new steed. I like those revised RS wheels, definitely more appealing than the Pre FL ones, which to my eye looked like they're hewn from stone with a blunt chisel. I know, it's all in the eye of the beholder, but wheels are important and the new styling 'accents' are a great improvement. Happy motoring!

I think you might be right, a possible problem going on there. Certainly would be a shock if we had 6c during summer 🥶🥶. Not unheard of in the southern regions in mid winter though, very early am or late pm

🙄 It's not too hard to follow, with the clima you get what you set, it will either warm up or cool down to the temp you set. If it's only 5c outside, of course it will blow warm to reach mid teens. BTW, this continent has many climates ranging from Alpine to Tropical, but I'm sure you knew that. Somewhere here we have one very similar to Hampshire!

The timing seems rather coincidental and the requirement for a new turbo seems a bit extreme, anyhow if they're going to 'gift' you a new turbo then it can only be a bonus for you. I agree with @Breezy_Pete, the MAP sensor is more often the one to become gunked or sooty. I've never yet had to replace the MAF in any car, but my previous car did need the MAP regularly cleaning (using one of the proprietary sensor/throttle body spray cleaners). Regardless of what the dealer does, I'd make sure the MAP is checked.

Same here, I leave mine to 22c auto year round and never have an issue. If the ambient & car interior temps are hotter, it rapidly cools down to the set temp i.e. gets there within 2-3 mins. As always, mine did so this morning with 35c ambient and hotter still in the parked car. If those in cooler climes are setting to 16c when ambient temps are much lower, then the clima will heat up until 16c is reached as it's designed to do. There's nothing quirky with the Mk4 clima in my opinion, in fact I think it works brilliantly. As an aside, these cars (and all VAG cars AFAIK) are built with either a 'Cool' or 'Tropical' specification. The factory data sheet will show either code 0Y2 (Tropical) or 0Y3 (Cool) according to the car's import climate. I know mine is Mine 0Y2 Tropical and I imagine northern European countries would be set to Cool. Having said that, I don't think it has anything to do with the Clima calibration, I believe it designates the coolant type i.e. lower freezing point temp in Cool climate vehicles and possibly a higher boiling point in warm climates. Happy to stand corrected on it, but that's what I've been able to discover about the differences so far.

The slot is to hold the owners manual. The dealer pointed it out to me when I took delivery.