jpadie

Well blow me down with a feather. I've been so focused on the wheel end I forgot there was another! I was also contemplating a hose clamp tool or maybe cutting some slots in washers and using mole grips to compress them. Thanks!

... Attached to brake caliper? It seems to need three hands. One to hold the end, the second to push back the spring and the third to wiggle the brake shoes up and around. Sadly I have only two

Thanks both. I've left it on the a stand and will get back to it in ten days. Looks simple enough with the right tools.

Just replace the wheel cylinder and put the drum back. Terrible noise and almost no brake force nor handbrake. Disassembled again and found these bits knocking around the drum. Any idea where they go? Thanks Justin

Am I right in thinking its an 11mm flare nut wrench that's needed on the brake lines? Not got any in the UK so I need to go worship at the bezos altar....

Thanks. They seem ok and I will service them properly tomorrow. I do have brake cleaner but also have a Karcher...

well that's alright then, I've plenty of those!

thanks! I've not got a full set of hex bits so it's a timely reminder to pick some up.

brake cylinder seems to be the answer! I should have guessed given that it's more or less the same in French. new one arriving tomorrow.

Hello all I've been suffering a loss of brake fluid and find that there's fluid leaking through the nearside rear brake drum. Being a clever fellow I've diagnosed this fluid as brake fluid. The seals on the outside of the hub appear dry. And the inside of the drum was a nightmare of sludge. It looks to me as though the brake fluid is coming out of the rear boot. But that could just be gravity. What is the part called in English that I need to replace please? Thanks Justin

That would be a challenging result as I don't have alternative transport at the moment, and don't have any good quality M8 stainless steel bolts... Probably best that I put the car back together and go get some supplies!

Yes indeed in the hex size. My mistake. Feels like they do more than locate the caliper though. They keep it on the hub against the disks as well!

As it happens I've just got out from under the car doing this. It's on A-stands and am really struggling to get the horizontally mounted 18mm bolt out. No space for a breaker bar and my socket keep slipping off. I've had two metallic squeaks though, so I will persevere and not admit to anyone that I'm using my torque wrench to undo this bolt ... I'm wondering whether it might help to jack up the sump a bit. And maybe the wheel hub needs support to reduce the pressure on the bolt? Which leads me to the next conundrum of the fittings to the wheel hub all being seized. I've put on wd40. No oxy torch here unfortunately. I've only got a butane gun which I doubt will be hot enough to make a happorth of difference. It's annoying not having a lift available!

i've read that these need 30Nm. but that feels very light for such a core bit of kit. even though the bolts are H7 heads. anyone know the right torque setting for these please?

definitely not on mine! I think this is in fact a brake line leak. will monitor,

Why the LHF? Pads are ok but disks need replacing. Job for next week. Will do pads at the same time in any event.

Thanks. It is parked up for a week whilst I find enough nurofen to get rid of the headache the beeping caused. Will check the handbrake switch when I'm back I thought the three beeps was more the front brakes though. The handbrake being a continuous sharp beep.

Anyone know what three beeps and a flashing handbrake light mean? Seems continuous but the gap between each set of three beeps is not identical. Beeps are about 3/4 second apart. Brake fluid is the right level. No noticeable loss of hydraulic pressure. No codes shown in obd11

well ... that's annoying! so no choice other than to buy a bushing removal/installation tool (or seeing whether a neighbour has one)?

Dear all in last year's MOT I was given the advisory that "Offside Rear Lower Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement rear bush" and recently when I went to the garage for a clutch change, the mechanic told me that the rear arm was flopping about. I'm after advice please - I don't have any tools here in the UK that would work as bushing remover/installer and I don't fancy buying one. so I'm thinking that buying a whole new arm (complete with the bushings already mounted) seems like a good idea (they're only 30£). is this replacing this feasible on the ground? i've only ever done suspension work on a lift before. Feels feasible depending on how much pry-barring is needed, so looking for someone with experience to reassure me!

The MOT garage is the service garage. The point I was really making was that the garage service mechanics should be calling the owner and saying we can do this when doing that and save you xxx. And more worrying is a part entirely wearing out in 18k mi. I'm tempted to say that either the issue didn't exist or the work was not done satisfactorily. But not my car. I would have done the work myself. This is my mother's (79).

this is an excerpt from the MOT history of one of the household's cars. it's serviced and MOT'd by a Peugeot franchise. 2021 - Fail Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Front Suspension component ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Nearside Front Anti-roll bar ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) 2022 - Fail Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) 2023 - Fail Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Offside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i)) it's about £800 a year so far. i was looking at this and wondered why they didn't replace the suspension arm pin in 2021 if it was showing that kind of wear. Ditto the nearside bushing since they were doing (supposedly) the anti-roll bar on the nearside in 2021. and particularly egregious is the replacement of the nearside front-anti-roll bar join in 2021 only to have it fail from wear within 2 years (18000 miles). I do wonder whether they just make it up.

Dearest Jeff Bezos (and readers) the brake discs and pads that you _promised_ me were 100% compatible with my little Skoda are ... not. Yours Justin for future readers, the discs for the 6Y2 motor that I have are 239mm (amazon promises they are 256mm). I have no idea what the pads are as I've not found the right ones yet. the ones Jeff sent me look like they are for a scooter. On Autodoc they offer both 256mm and 239mm as compatible parts for the discs. 256mm won't even fit inside the caliper mounts let alone line up on the wheel nut holes. and by the by, thanks very much to the mechanic before me that rounded out the inside of the caliper hex sockets and popped them back, just to provide me with 90 minutes of entertainment this afternoon. Just what a mid-50 year old wants on a Friday. solution was to cut away the rubber dust guard and hammer on a bolt remover (I had these from when I replaced the exhaust and oil sump on the car:

turned out to be too hard to do on the ground so it was a garage job. £520 (Surrey prices) of which there was 4hrs labour.

thanks Pete - i'd think that's a likely fit. i've not got a lift in the UK but I do have 12" ramps and some A frames. I've not taken the clutch out on this car before - is it something that can be done on the ground? any decent how-tos around that you've come across? cheers justin