jpadie

this is an excerpt from the MOT history of one of the household's cars. it's serviced and MOT'd by a Peugeot franchise. 2021 - Fail Repair immediately (major defects): Offside Front Suspension component ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Nearside Front Anti-roll bar ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) 2022 - Fail Nearside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) 2023 - Fail Nearside Front Anti-roll bar linkage ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i)) Offside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i)) it's about £800 a year so far. i was looking at this and wondered why they didn't replace the suspension arm pin in 2021 if it was showing that kind of wear. Ditto the nearside bushing since they were doing (supposedly) the anti-roll bar on the nearside in 2021. and particularly egregious is the replacement of the nearside front-anti-roll bar join in 2021 only to have it fail from wear within 2 years (18000 miles). I do wonder whether they just make it up.

Dearest Jeff Bezos (and readers) the brake discs and pads that you _promised_ me were 100% compatible with my little Skoda are ... not. Yours Justin for future readers, the discs for the 6Y2 motor that I have are 239mm (amazon promises they are 256mm). I have no idea what the pads are as I've not found the right ones yet. the ones Jeff sent me look like they are for a scooter. On Autodoc they offer both 256mm and 239mm as compatible parts for the discs. 256mm won't even fit inside the caliper mounts let alone line up on the wheel nut holes. and by the by, thanks very much to the mechanic before me that rounded out the inside of the caliper hex sockets and popped them back, just to provide me with 90 minutes of entertainment this afternoon. Just what a mid-50 year old wants on a Friday. solution was to cut away the rubber dust guard and hammer on a bolt remover (I had these from when I replaced the exhaust and oil sump on the car:

turned out to be too hard to do on the ground so it was a garage job. £520 (Surrey prices) of which there was 4hrs labour.

thanks Pete - i'd think that's a likely fit. i've not got a lift in the UK but I do have 12" ramps and some A frames. I've not taken the clutch out on this car before - is it something that can be done on the ground? any decent how-tos around that you've come across? cheers justin

I say squeaky but I really mean shrieking like a banshee.... Fabia MK1 1.2 petrol. What's the diagnosis if this shrieking happens when the clutch pedal is depressed? No slipping when in gear. No dead spots. Is this a cable fault? A hydraulic fault? Or a new clutch plate needed? Tia Justin

coil packs and spark plugs replaced on cyls1 and 2. that seems to have resolved the problem for the time being.

I've swapped two of the coil packs to check whether they are culprits and now have misfires ok both cyl 1 and 2. So first step is replacing the coil packs for both (I broke the connector housing on cyl2) and the plugs. No point in trying further diagnosis until those are known to be good.

hello all car showed simultaneous P0170 and P0301 fault codes this morning. the engine didn't seem to be misfiring (clutch in and revved ok). fault cleared using ODBII and switch on/off but comes back. car runs fine until at 90C. Engine seems to be in limp home mode, refusing to rev about 2000. I don't have a compression test kit to hand but I really doubt that it's a compression issue or spark issue. Any thoughts please?

thanks for the info. Swapped mine out with a combination of the kitchen oven (to preheat the board) and low melt solder to get the old relay out. clean it up with wick and then use normal solder to mount the new one. without my heat gun (my electronics lab is in a different country) I couldn't see a way of getting it done without low melt solder.

are the G8NW-2 relays drop in replacement for the Tyco's?

does anyone know of a source of UK stock for the intermittent relay? V23084 C2002 A403? It's a DPDT micro-K non-latching format. My usual suppliers of electronics components all have this as either obsolete or restricted stock. cheers justin

Thanks That's easy enough to test even if it's a bore to strip out the trim panels and exit the bcm. I fear that my soldering irons and hot air station are in packing boxes so may have to resort to a heat gun from Screwfix...

Hello all Not sure what's going on here but the front wipers are on all the time. Speed selection seems to be not working either. Is this most likely a stalk issue or something awry with the position sensor? Either way help would be very welcome! I've been lucky for two days with no rain and the fuse pulled out but it won't last... Tia Justin

Found it. Thanks indeed. It was t'other way round and that threw me off. I then started to undo that bolt until it dawned on me that it was a spectacularly Bad idea!

https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/product/skoda-fabia-estate-2007-2014-exhaust-hanger/ In the above link there's a bracket showing as no9. One end connects above the flex pipe. I've no idea where the other end goes! Any ideas?

genius! that looks like the place! unfortunately my driver's side cubby has no lid!

All fixed. Had to remove the panel again. Turned out that the cable wasn't properly seated in the lock. Turning it around allowed an extra 15mm in the cable which solved the problem. Thanks for all the help. Justin

Update: the retainer for the cable in the interior handle has snapped off. So I'm waiting for a new one before continuing the experimentation. Must remember to remove the window before trying to remove the inner door card ...

Well I still have no idea but the dash is ack together and I have quite a few spare screws. God only knows where they came from! All seems to hold together. For future readers I spliced a relay in under and behind the climate controls, where the fag lighter wires start ascending. I spliced into the switched live from the back of the radio and dropped that down eight inches or so to the relay. I was going to solder the cables and heatshrink but (doh) the only iron I have here in the UK is 12v version powered from the very socket i had just cut the power from. So instead used wago connectors everywhere.

Hello all I was taking the lower dash off to fit a relay on the fag lighter (loony that this is always live). A clip fell down from around the fuse box/drivers right knee. I can't immediately see where the clip goes back. Any experts with good memories out there?

Removed the tension on the outer handle (clip detached) but still no joy. It seems to work until I hang the door card back and then all goes wrong, even to the extent of the cable snapping out of its placement in the inner handle. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I have new rivets, just in case, but that's a last gasp.

Is there a way to adjust the tension on the inner latch ? Without taking the panel off ideally!

Ah. I've misread. You mean the lock gasket. I don't remember seeing that at all. Neither on the chassis nor the lock body nor the mating surface. And not inside the door either. Interesting. I will have a shufti if I end up drilling the rivets

Have tried releasing the outer latch tensioner. No joy. Not sure how the gaiter can impact the cable as it is in a Bowden tube. But will have a go with releasing the gaiter. I'm really trying to avoid redrilling all the new rivets!

With the carrier panel. I don't think I unlatched the cable on the inside. But I have increased the tension on the outside handle.