andriyvp

The one in the last picture comes from the top of the engine (super easy to get to with just one screw). It is VW part number 04e906455ac, and is depicted as part #25 on the below diagram (where it is called camshaft control valve). I'm just not sure if it is related to intake camshaft, or if it is linked to exhaust camshaft though. Just in case sharing actual picture of my engine (this part 04e906455ac I marked with yellow arrow, and the magnet solenoid for intake camshaft VW part 04E906423C which I removed in this picture is marked with green arrow).

What I cannot figure out is the following. After stopping the car with Start/Stop on (hence engine shutting down for a few sec), of course while still on relatively cold engine, when I resume driving I get the below reading (where the SPECIFIED value for camshaft adjuster remains static). During this time I tried accelerating, decelerrating, and that still did not move the SPECIFIED value. If the magnet was stuck, I would expect the actual value to get "stuck" like this, while computer continuing to dictate proper specified value (which would then also vary with pressing of gas pedal). In my case, I see the opposite happening with specified value getting sort of "stuck", while the actual seems to cycle through a few degrees up & down. Again this lasts for about 5-10 seconds, and then everything unfreezes again and behaves normally, but I cannot understand the logic of why would specified value not react during this time to acceleration (as in all other cases it does react immediately to changes of driving performance). Does that point to a possible rootcase?

@Crasher please let me know what you mean by solenoid to be replaced in the above example. Thanks!

My Car: Skoda Kodiaq 2019, 1.5 TSI DADA engine, 150 Hp In the Netherlands, it seems OEM parts are around 150-200 Euros, but that is fine (I can also start by replacing with 2nd hand part just to check if that's the rootcause). But when you say solenoid - what do you mean exactly as I have 3 parts in this engine, and depending on the garages I talked to they called each of them a solenoid at some point Do you mean the magnet that pushes the pin in/out ? or the oil control valve that sits inside the camshaft adjuster (on which the above magnet is actually pushing)? or the sensor/oil control valve that sits on top of the engine by itself:

Update: - Went to several VAG-specialized garages locally. All gave me the same response - they have no clue, nor any way to diagnose. They would just start replacing components one by one until the problem is solved. So a bit of a blind trial & error, starting with cheapest one to replace - As already stated, I changed oil & filter. Then I cleaned camshaft adjuster magnet/solenoid (again), and yesterday cleaned the camshaft adjuster oil control valve. Neither appeared visually to be clogged up, hence I didn't have much hope that this will solve the problem. Still I cannot rule out that they are not faulty (and if nothing else comes to mind I will start with replacing the magnet and the oil control valve to also rule them out completely) - I did not clean the oil control valve that sits directly inside the camshaft adjuster. Based on my analysis, in order to do so, I would need to take off the timing belt cover and lock the camshaft or crankshaft in place to unscrew the oil control valve. I don't have the experience to do so, hence decided not to mess with this yet (although appears not that difficult to do). - I've recorded a lot of live data to capture how camshaft adjuster works. Would like to compare it to other people's data to understand what is considered normal vs. faulty - maybe that would point to a more reasonable direction for troubleshooting. To keep the discussion clean, I started this in a separate thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511804-intake-camshaft-adjustment-correct-vs-faulty-p0011-problem/ as always, any advice or hint in which direction to look would be highly appreciated.

Hi All, For a few months I've been struggling to troubleshoot P0011 problem with intake camshaft adjuster (described it in detail here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511194-epc-light-and-p0011-intake-camshaft-position-issue-timing-over-advanced-system-performance/#comment-5740970 After changing engine oil & filter, cleaning camshaft adjuster solenoid magnet, and cleaning camshaft adjuster oil control valve - still no luck. I am considering replacing first the magnet, and then the oil control valve, but this is just blind trial & error. Dealer and local garages apparently have no better method of diagnosis either - just blindly replacing part by part until finally one of these replacements works. I am wondering if there is a smarter approach possible. I've been trying to collect data on how my intake camshaft adjuster behaves, and hoping maybe this would point out to someone a most likely cause. I also am trying to determine what is considered "normal" for camshaft adjuster - so if anyone can post your live data - that would be extremely helpful (I CarScanner app, but any other data will do). Problem happens only on cold engine (until engine oil reaches about 65 degrees, so within the first 5-10min of driving). On warm engine - everything works fine. Specific questions I have are: 1) Can someone post your live data comparing Actual vs. Specified value for intake camshaft adjuster Bank 1 (for comparison purposes)? 2) The fact that specified value has these dips down far into negatives, while the actual stays positive - does that point to anything? I.e. Could it be that camshaft adjuster itself is actually working fine, but the ECM unit is dictating wrong specified values to it once in a while (hence the issue lies elsewhere other than in the camshaft adjuster itself)? 3) When car is stopped and Start/Stop activates, there is slight deviation between actual (11.49) and specified (11.13). Is this small deviation when the engine is inactive "normal", or is this itself a sign of a problem? 4) Please see below pattern, which I've observed happens roughly in a similar way every day. Depending on how much it happens (before the oil warms up), it may or may not trigger the EPC light. Once the oil warms up - everything works fine. Does this pattern show you any logical direction for troubleshooting? Thanks! After starting the car and driving normally for a few min, you would start to see deviations like below, where you see specified adjustment value dipping down while actual not following. Normally this starts to happen after stopping for a few seconds at a light, and then resuming driving. Then you see actual going into cyclic movement between 9-12 degrees while expected value continues to stay at ~9 degrees with some dips down. after a few seconds like this, it will "resolve itself" and the two values follow each other relatively closely (at least as far as I assume is close-enough) Such deviation can then repeat again a minute or so later: and then finally resolves for good (normally the oil would have also warmed up sufficiently by then). These dips down never happen on warm oil (so I can continue driving for the rest of the day without any problems at all). During this entire time the engine drives normally, no weird sounds (at least to me) are coming out, no other strange behavior is seen. Perhaps anyone can pinpoint what to watch out for specifically, then I can also pay more attention if anything else is happening.

@varooom this is helpful, but I think I need section that is on page 188 of that manual. Basically I want to only remove & clean the camshaft control valve (marked with number 3 on the below diagram), and if I understand correctly it is described in section 3.4.1 on page 188. Hard to judge if there are other sections also relevant as steps to be performed before you can remove control valve.

Perfect, thank you so much @varooom. Do you happen to also have repair/replacement instructions? I.e. what is the procedure of taking that whole unit apart? For example, if I want to only get to the control valve (to take it out for cleaning or replacement), do you have instructions of how to get to it? Thanks again in advance for all your help!

Hi All, Short update: 1) I've done the maintenance in the car and now put in VW Spec 509 00 oil (0W20) 2) Went to Skoda dealer for diagnosis. After half hour of "diagnosis" all they've done is just read the code from the car, and indicated that my camshaft adjuster for the intake camshaft should be replaced. When I questioned them on why, what is the logic that it is not just a faulty sensor, what is the logic of why I am getting this error not all the time but only on cold engine (if this was a defective camshaft adjuster) - they could not answer any of these questions. Basically they read the code, and their tool just tells them based on this code - replace the entire camshaft adjuster - a bill for me for 1000 Euros... If there was any assurance that camshaft adjuster was indeed faulty - oh well, I would go for this repair. But I am not at all convinced (neither are they :)) Will try to get a 2nd opinion at another dealer. My intent is to drive the car around now on new oil (have it for only 2 days since oil replacement), warm up the engine, let it out on the highway, switch to manual and rev up the engine a bit to let the oil pressure "unclog" the solenoid in the camshaft adjuster if it is indeed clogged. Does that make sense to you? @varooom: on the picture of the exploded parts diagram that you shared earlier (the 1st one), would you be so kind to share it again but scroll up on the list on the right hand side, so that I can see descriptions & part numbers of other parts? I am guessing what they are suggesting to replace is part 13 on that diagram. Different question - in my engine I see there is some sort of corkwire plug surrounding the valve, I don't see that anywhere in the diagram. Any chance that the diagram is for a slightly different engine spec? I see you selected 2021 Kodiaq, I have a 2019 Kodiaq - likely does not matter, but just in case

@varooom thanks a lot for your response and the detailed diagrams. If this is indeed such a delicate system, perhaps I should not be messing with it... Perhaps this is what I needed to hear Wondering still if anyone had a similar problem and if there might be a simple solution - i.e. could a simple oil change just fix it (thus not requiring to bring it for an expensive diagnosis or service) ? In the meantime, the issue happened again today right as I was looking at live chart in the OBD app, which allowed me to capture the exact moment on screen. As you can see, the actual camshaft adjustment value for intake bank 1 does not match the specified value for just a few seconds. This is the moment that triggers EPC light to come on. Then it goes back to normal and roughly follows the specified graph. Don't know if this is pointing anyone to what could be the possible root cause of such a temporary deviation.

Hi everyone again. I have now posted all 3 problems (each in separate thread as they might be unrelated to each other, although the first 2 might have a connection - hard to tell). The first 2 are the ones that I most critically need help with. I think the 3rd one for the time being can be ignored / not very important. Here are the links if this helps:

Hi All, I pick up B108715: Left vent temperature sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B error when scanning with OBDII reader. I do not notice any adverse performance of my climate control. I've done a soft reset of the climate system (holding down AC and one of the vent buttons). The soft reset cleared the code temporarily, and it returned shortly afterwards. When I clear the code - this does not help, it returned immediately on the next scan. Does anyone have any advice how to troubleshoot? Would reconnecting the temperature sensor help? Or should I replace it? In either case, does anyone know how to actually get to this specific sensor? Thanks! My Car: Skoda Kodiaq 2019, 1.5 TSI DADA engine, 150 Hp, 50k km on odometer, front-wheel drive, DSG, 7-seater. 197122 Raw code: 030202 ECU: 08. Heater and climate[Archive (inactive)] Status: Confirmed Skoda Scala, Kamiq 2019-2021; Octavia III 2013 - 2020, Kodiaq 2017 - 2021, Karoq 2018 - 2021; Octavia 2020-2021; Superb 2015-2021: B108715: Left vent temperature sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B Skoda: B10DD15: Left front upper body vent temperature sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B Skoda Rapid EU(A-Entry) 2013 - 2021; Fabia 2015-2021: B108615: Center vent temperature sensor Open circuit/short circuit to B Status bits: 1 Priority: 3 Frequency: 8 Unlearning index: 12 Odometer: 50592 km Date, time: 2023.02.23 17:52:41

Hi All, Past two months I have been having several error codes in my Kodiaq, one of which is U1123 Databus error from Adaptive Cruise Control. Would appreciate any help in troubleshooting. My Car: Skoda Kodiaq 2019, 1.5 TSI DADA engine, 150 Hp, 50k km on odometer, front-wheel drive, DSG, 7-seater. Issue description: Occasionally EPC light comes on and car goes into limp mode (with message that computer has reduced max throttle to 3000 rpms to prevent damage to the engine) This comes at the same time with several error codes popping up (I don't know if they are related / triggered by the same root cause, or completely separate). I am describing them each in a different thread potentially to troubleshoot each one separately. In summary, the error codes I get are P0011 (camshaft over-advance timing), U1123 (Databus error value received for Adaptive Cruise Control), B108715 (left vent temperature sensor). My guess is that EPC light comes due to the camshaft issue, but not sure. At the same time, I get the "Start/Stop system error" message on the car dashboard and neither start/stop nor ACC work Shutting down the engine and restarting the car removes the EPC light, and the car continues to drive normally (no limp mode), ACC works fine, start/stop works fine The issue appears at random intervals - sometimes could happen 2-3 times per day, sometimes once per week. Lately frequency has increased. Perhaps completely unrelated, but also occasionally my windshield wipers would "turn on" by themselves and do one sweep cycle only. Sometimes it would repeat once again in 20-30 seconds. This is while they are in fully OFF mode (not in auto mode). I've noticed this happen sometimes when I drive over a speed bump on the road (driving slowly still), sometimes just on flat surface. It happens roughly once per 3-5 weeks in an unpredictable matter. Perhaps completely unrelated, but I am thinking if there is some sort of electrical glitch, or short circuit that gets triggered somewhere, perhaps its causing both errors. What I've done so far to troubleshoot it: Went to local Skoda dealer to diagnose, who indicated that unless I have an active EPC light at the time I come they might not be able to find anything (with me ending up to pay a lot of money for the hours spent on diagnostics). As I cannot replicate the problem myself to make the EPC light come on at the time I can come to the dealership, it makes it difficult to use their services. Tried to turn off ACC and drive without it for a while (to localize if EPC light is caused by it or not). EPC light still went on, when reading the codes, all 4 codes came back I've seen that a number of people had these problems, but none seem to indicate exact solution for it. There were suggestions that just unplugging the negative terminal of the battery for 2-3 minutes could help reset the electronics. Others indicated that ACC needs to be recalibrated by the dealer. Others indicated that ACC radar might be physically off (due to hitting a bump) and needs to be put back in place. I tried scanning the car with several different apps. With one I got the same U1123 issue appear twice (after clearing and driving for a few days, the same U1123 again reappeared twice). With another app, I see two different issues related to Active Cruise Control module (but one is a power window switch issue on the passenger door, which as far as I can tell has nothing to do with ACC). See both of the results below. Specific Questions I would like to ask for your help with: Is it safe to disconnect negative terminal of the battery to reset the electronics of the car? I've read that in these newer cars this could cause all sort of systems to lose their settings and the car for sure will need to be recalibrated by the dealer. Others say that after driving a few min post disconnecting and reconnecting the battery, the car "relearns" all settings by itself. Which is true? Has anyone done it on a 2019 Kodiaq? If the radar needs to be mechanically adjusted / popped back into place - does anyone know how to take off the cover to get to the radar? This does not sound like a possible solution to me, but who knows... What does the power window switch issue reported by one of the apps have to do with ACC? Could this be an indicator that eletronics in general need a reset? Could my battery be going bad, causing all these strange issues? How can I test? Voltage seems to be at 14.9v with engine running and 12.5v at rest. Are the software versions up to date? Perhaps simply a software update is needed? Do you have any other advise wrt how I can troubleshoot the ACC databus problem? Scan results with one app: 13 Adaptive Cruise Control System description: ACCCONTIMQB Software number: 2Q0907572Q Software version: 0342 Hardware number: 2Q0907572B Hardware version: H03 Faults: U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent U112300 - Databus error value received Intermittent Scan results with another app: 0936 Raw code: 0003A8 ECU: 13. Active cruise control Status: Test failed, Confirmed Skoda: Power window switch on the front passenger door-E107; Window lifter switch, passenger side-E107 Status bits: 1 Priority: 4 Frequency: 11 Unlearning index: 227 Odometer: 50450 km Date, time: 2023.02.17 12:00:06 ============6============== 2068 Raw code: 000814 ECU: 13. Active cruise control Status: Test failed, Confirmed Skoda: Optical Data Bus - System Disabled; Optical data bus system switched off Status bits: 1 Priority: 6 Frequency: 11 Unlearning index: 227 Odometer: 50450 km Date, time: 2023.02.17 12:00:05

Wonderful! Thanks a lot for a warm welcome. I've posted the first error code with the description of the issue. Am in process of explaining 2 others now Looking forward to any support I can get. Thanks a lot in advance!

Hi All! Past two months I've been trying to troubleshoot the EPC Light with P0011 error code that comes on sporadically, and would greatly appreciate any generic advice on this issue as well as answers to the specific questions I have based on the research I've done so far. Details below (sorry for long explanations - I try to be thorough in case anything pop ups to you as a possible culprit). Thank you in advance! My Car: Skoda Kodiaq 2019, 1.5 TSI DADA engine, 150 Hp, 50k km on odometer, front-wheel drive, DSG, 7-seater. Issue description: Occasionally EPC light comes on and car goes into limp mode (with message that computer has reduced max throttle to 3000 rpms to prevent damage to the engine) When I use Carista reader coupled with Car Scanner app, I see 4 several error codes pop up, amongst which P0011 (Raw code: 0011, ECU: Engine control unit, Status: Pending, OBDII: Camshaft position (CMP), intake/left/front, bank 1 - timing over-advanced/system performance) The issue has pending/intermittent status, which I understand means that this is not an active issue at the time of scanning, but is triggered for some short moment once in a while, and because it has been triggered enough times now it is causing EPC light now to come on (correct me if this interpretation is wrong) Shutting down the engine and restarting the car removes the EPC light, and the car continues to drive normally (no limp mode) The issue appears at random intervals - sometimes could happen 2-3 times per day, sometimes once per week. I have tried paying very close attention to the conditions when it comes, but I could not pinpoint anything specific, other than it is happening much more frequently on a colder engine (just few minutes from starting and driving a few km up to oil temperatures reaching 60-70 degrees). I did not seem to observe the issue on a well warmed up engine. Also the issue came out in the winter time only (do not know if this makes any difference). When I clear the error code and rescan, the tool does not pick up this error again until again few days later an EPC light is triggered (at which times the error codes are visible again with status: intermittent or pending) Lately the problem seems to happen more frequently than earlier - i.e. at least twice every 2-3 days, while in the past it could not happen for a a week (but given its sporadic nature this is a perception) This comes at the same time with several other active error codes popping up (I don't know if they are related / triggered by the same root cause, or completely separate). I am describing them each in a different thread potentially to troubleshoot each one separately, and will include links here. In summary, the error codes I get are P0011 (camshaft over-advance timing), U1123 (Databus error value received for Adaptive Cruise Control), B108715 (left vent temperature sensor). Otherwise, the car seems to be driving normally, no rough idle, no other deteriorated performance noticed and if it's weren't for the EPC light coming up with limp mode, I would not have known about the problem. Oil change was done by Skoda Dealer in summer 2021, who for some reason put in VW 5W40 Special G oil (VW 502.00/505.00 which does not seem to be the recommended oil for this car). I replaced oil & filter myself in summer 2022 and put in Castrol Edge 5w30 LL (VW 504.00/507.00) which is "slightly" more OK for this car. Reason why I did not put in 0w20 (VW 508.00) is due to all the negative feedback I've read on various forums about how this oil may not protect the engine well etc (perhaps this was a mistake). The issue happened for the first time about 5 months (5k km) after change to 5w30 oil. Reason why I am mentioning this is that this could be a potential culprit. (see below the troubleshooting section) What I've done so far to troubleshoot it: Went to local Skoda dealer to diagnose, who indicated that unless I have an active EPC light at the time I come they might not be able to find anything (with me ending up to pay a lot of money for the hours spent on diagnostics). As I cannot replicate the problem myself to make the EPC light come on at the time I can come to the dealership, it makes it difficult to use their services. Based on research that this could be caused by low oil pressure, I've topped up my oil from mid-mark (middle between low & max point) to just a bit shy of max point (that required roughly 0.5L addition) - did not help the problem My engine coolant was just barely below the low mark (with cold engine) and roughly in the mid-mark (with warm engine). I topped up engine coolant to mid-mark (cold engine). Likely this has absolutely nothing to do with the problem, but just wanted to rule this out. I've seen many videos & posts, like this one that P0011 problem could be caused by camshaft position sensor (either the magnet or the solenoid itself or both) getting contaminated due to bad oil / particles or sludge build up etc. Some people recommend simply doing an oil change to the factory recommended VW 508 oil, which might remove the problem. I have service coming due in a few month (with an emission test) and see if I can first clean the camshaft to ensure that if it's clogged and I simply change oil, the clog will not clear itself. I've taken off the intake camshaft magnet, noticed that the middle pin moved relatively slowly / had some resistance, hence I cleaned it with sensor cleaner. Post that the middle pin was moving freely & fully just by shaking the magnet in my hand. My intent was to take off also the solenoid and clean it, for which I bought a special VW tool with two pins to remove it. To my surprise instead I saw a 24mm normal nut there (see photos). I've put the magnet back and tried to see if smth stuck in the magnet was the culprit - it wasn't. After 1 day of normal driving, the issue popped again on the 2nd day. Specific Questions I would like to ask for your help with: The fact that my solenoid has a 24mm bolt instead of a unique VW connector - is that an indicator that an aftermarket part is used? Or could this simply be a nut, behind which there is still the normal VW connector to take off the solenoid? Does anyone have instructions wrt how to take off such solenoid for cleaning? What force to use (if a torque wrench must be used), but also upon removing the nut, how to remove what appears to be some sort of wire lock nut behind it? Would you advise just changing oil to 0w20 and NOT cleaning the solenoid - could that alone fix the problem (i.e. perhaps 5w oil is too thick while it is cold and not properly flowing through the solenoid)? But strange why for a year running on VW 5w40 Special G I did not have this issue, while it did occur on 5W30. Do you have any other advise wrt how I can troubleshoot the problem? Thank you very much for any help you can offer!

Hi everyone! I am new to this forum. I own a Skoda Kodiaq 2019 with 1.5 TSI (DADA) engine, DSG transmission, front-wheel drive. I love the car overall due to many different reasons. But lately I have been having a few strange error codes appear with EPC light coming on, hence I will post a few specific questions in the relevant sections hoping for your support. Thanks a lot in advance, and happy to become a member of this community. Regards, Andriy