Andy_Viking

I used the Skoda roof bars for the first time last week and I have to say they are fantastic, really easy to fit on your own, really clever design.

I changed this just before we went away last week, code has not reappeared in just over 1000 miles so hopefully that is another one ticked off. Thanks for the help.

RIP

Thanks for the replies, I think for £30 for a Bosch part I will just replace it rather than faff about, hopefully that will cross this one off the list! Cheers.

So, now the fuel leak is sorted I am turning my attention to three errors that VCDS has flagged up. I'll run a separate thread for each to keep everything tidy and searchable. So, we have P0113 Signal too high, The report, pasted below states G42 which looks like the one that is part of GX26 (Charge Pressure Sender). My questions are:- Have I located the correct sensor, as pictured below? Is it something that may respond to cleaning with carb cleaner or should I just replace? Log and Picture:- 20572 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42) P0113 00 [00100000] - Signal too High Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 2 Fault Frequency: 1 Mileage: 139721 km Date: 2025.06.27 Time: 12:59:05 Engine speed: 0.00 /min Normed load value: 0.0 % Vehicle speed: 0 km/h Coolant temperature: 84 °C Intake air temperature: 39 °C Ambient air pressure: 1010 mbar Voltage terminal 30: 12.651 V Unlearning counter according OBD: 35 Mass flow through throttle valve: 1.6 kg/h Mean injection time: 0.572 ms Engine operating condition: Idle Engine operating condition-Test_Program_Channel 87: 5 Driver-side belt buckle status-Bits 0-7: 191 Engine torque: 16.8 Nm

I did mean to take some pictures but got so engrossed in what I was doing I completely forgot. The inlets all looked pretty clean, as good as any similar mileage engines I have dismantled in the past with conventional injection. This car has done 80,000 miles approx.

Thanks. Annoying that it is the full delivery pipe at £150ish. For now to get it back on the road I have used some high spec 8mm fuel hose with proper clamps to just replace the short perforated section, and the hose actually looks better quality than what was previously fitted. It is only about a 4" section between the end of the stainless pipe and the fuel pump itself. I will make efforts to find the PR code for this car, thank you. The guide I had found wasn't particularly accurate, no need to remove the high pressure fuel pump. It was a really easy job, couple of hours max and that was taking my time. I think had the injectors needed removing and resealing it would have taken an awful lot longer. I now have all the bits to do that plus the tool kit, more items for the 'stock room' :)

Reassembled with new manifold gaskets and bolts, ran with the airbox off, and bingo, got it! Pinhole in the low pressure delivery spraying exactly where the manifold was wet. I think moving it around to get the manifold off must have made it worse as it was really spraying out... I don't suppose anyone with the software could look up the part number for me please?

So I am at a bit of a dead end. Stripped down this afternoon. Top of the inlet manifold has some suspicious looking wet patches at the right hand side. Fuel rail bolts are fine and no evidence of current or past leakage below the manifold. The only two places I can see that fuel could get onto the top of the manifold are from what I think is the fuel delivery or return pipe, goes across the top of the manifold between the pump and the left side (but that looks fine), or is it blowing some out past the inlet manifold gaskets when cold? Is that even possible?

Well this tale may have a sorry ending. My daughter has used the car for a happy 30,000 miles but yesterday it misfired, rapidly declined to not running. RAC came out and a big bit of ceramic is missing off #2 plug, 6 month old plugs, very annoying. New plugs fitted and apparantly runs like a bag of nails. I am getting the car recovered from Bristol to Nottingham and I'll do a compression test but I expect the engine is done :(

Thanks, I am going to have a go at this hopefully Friday, weather permitting. Procedure looks fairly simple, the only odd thing I don't quite get is it says to remove the high pressure fuel pump, I can't quite see why that is necessary but may become obvious as I strip it down. That said, the procedure I have is for a slightly earlier model.

I have the same model and ordered the genuine Skoda roof bars from the Czech Republic. Unfortunately they arrived damaged so I am having to claim. Depending on where you are you need to factor in VAT/Import tax. I looked at Thule and other alternatives but decided with the glass roof it was best to stick with what Skoda have designed.

Update: I have all the parts now to do the fuel rail but really not convinced that is the problem yet. Yesterday there was a smell again on cold start and the areas in the pictures, on the lip of the air filter box, right hand side, were wet with fuel. After 2 to3 minutes driving the smell had gone and the areas in the photo were dry, and the car was fine for the rest of the day...

So my shopping list is:- - Injector Seal Tool Kit - 06M998907 - Repair Kit (Seals) x4 - 04E133036A - Clip x4 - N10546403 - Fuel Rail Screw x 4 - 036129717E - Inlet Manifold Seals x 4 - N10738801 - Manifold Screw x 5 I saw in one procedure someone ordered WHT001386 and WHT003246, Charge pipe top and bottom seals. Is it worth getting these as well? Also, I saw someone doing the job on a VW similar engine and the injectors have a 'cage' fitted, something like this but I don't see any mention anywhere else?

Is this what they refer to as the 'Teflon Gasket Ring' which looks like it needs very precise positioning?

Tempted to just get the bits and do the fuel rail to rule it out (or solve it), doesn't look too tricky to do and not a huge outlay on parts. Assume I would need the seal kit, bolts, inlet gaskets, I see someone else replaced the support elements for the injection rail so I'll order them as well.

I have used the car over the weekend, usually my wife drives it, and the problem seems to occur when the car has been standing for several hours, on start up there is a petrol smell, in the cabin and also outside the car. Nothing visible in terms of drips etc. It goes away completely after about 3 minutes and then is fine until next start up. If parked for a short time and then restarted there doesn't seem to be an issue...

Thanks for the replies. Interesting stuff about the fuel rail bolts, but this problem, at least for the moment is definitely intermittent. Yesterday afternoon and evening there was no issue, and yes I agree that all the cases of broken bolts seemed to be a very rapid development into a big leak. The damp looking area in the red ring I think was just a bit of oil, when I took the airbox off and cleaned it up it certainly didn't smell like fuel. The top of the radiator fan isn't actually damp it is just an effect of the picture, in reality that area is fine. As soon as it happens again I'll try and get a torch shining under the manifold to see if anything is dripping down there, it is pretty awkward to see though. I don't mind stripping it down and changing the bolts and seals but seems pointless unless I am sure that is the issue.

So I think the wetness I could see was a red herring, I have taken the air box off to get a better look and have run the car, no sign of anything in that area or around the fuel pump, and at the moment I can't smell anything... Annoying.

Hi, I noticed a fuel smell in the cabin a couple of days ago, went away but back again this morning. Had a look and there is a wet area in the red circle on the picture attached. I'll stip it down and have a look at the weekend but just wondered if there are any obvious suspects on this model or anything maybe I should order in anticipation so I can possibly fix it in one session? No obvious visible drips that I can see. Thank you.

Just to update this, after a month's use everything seems to be pretty spot on, starts and runs really well and feels much happier. Thanks for the help along the way.

Pump chain kit finally arrived, interestingly the sprocket is a genuine one with the VWAG text ground off! So hopefully up and running this weekend... Just thinking about the crank bolt and struggling getting my head around the theory of the counter-holding tool. I know it works, but how, when you are countering the torque of tightening the bolt using something attached to the pulley which is not keyed into the crackshaft which you are tightening against...

Ugh so annoying, I thought I had everything I needed. Just putting the timing cover back on and noticed the oil pump chain has been eating away at the timing cover so need a new oil pump chain and tensioner grrrrrrrrrrrrr Do these normally wear at the same rate as the timing chain? Timing chain was pretty bad such that I couldn't quite get both timing tools in and the old tensioner was at full stretch. Oh and part numbers would be massively appreciated please...

Thanks. I think the ground will be my friend for the counterholding! All else fails I'll counterhold it and wind it up with my big driver.

Bit of an urgent question please:- My copy of the workshop repair guide has a clear error in it and I am wondering which part is correct. Crank pulley bolt torque, it states 150Nm plus a further 180 degrees (1/4 turn) which is clearly a contradiction! Can anyone verify if it should be 180 degrees - 1/2 turn, or 90 degrees - 1/4 turn? 1.2 CHFA 6 valve Thanks