Andy_Viking

I'll stick a new one in. Once it is all done and working fine it will be going back to my daughter who lives about 2.5 hours away so want it as reliable as possible. Is that parts software available? Looks really useful...

Probably worth it, I don't suppose you have the part numbers for the thermostat and seal please? I can see different looking ones and I don't want to really buy the whole plastic housing... I have the housing to head seal.

The anaerobic stuff isn't cheap, was £16 from an obscure place, mostly around £23 ish. The Silicon is on special at GSF at the moment, just under £7 a tube.

So I have gone for this for the cam cover:- https://www.elring.fr/CELUM/10008/10019/EL-Liq_73_TDB_2021_EN.pdf and this for the timing cover and sump:- https://digital-assets.tecalliance.services/pdf/50ddcc684a7ef2592874740f31a675403c1f6555.pdf?response-content-disposition=inline%3Bfilename%3DTDB_DIRKO_HT_OXIM_EN.PDF

That's why I said probably considered mad, (by others), I myself think I am totally sane and everyone else around me is totally out of synch

Thanks for the info. I get why the cam carrier sealant is different as it has to produce a very thin seal as the bearings are within the cover itself. Original stuff was very hard, almost like a varnish. The other two lead to very similar (or in some cases the same) alternatives and I can't see much difference in the specs so will just go with one option for the timing cover and sump. That is valve #3, #2 was fairly similar and #1 not quite so bad...

That would be great thanks Cam sprocket bolt is what I will be re-using, I have a new crank pulley bolt. Thanks

Thanks, I am old...... probably considered mad......but skint, so I shall re-use the bolt.

I am well on with this and will start a new thread to detail everything. Exhaust valves are boggered!! Just have a couple of questions: - Timing cover and sump appear to be a silicon based sealant, cam cover appears to be something very hard and difficult to remove. What are the suggested options for reassembly please? - Does the camshaft sprocket bolt need replacing? (I have a new crank bolt) Many thanks

Will do, should probably start a new thread with an appropriate title. Everything ordered, car will be freed from duties by 2nd October so plan on starting as soon after that as I have time!

Single cam

Thanks. I replaced the exhaust centre sleeve when I changed the gear lever housing a month or so ago so hopefully will be fine. Will get a cat to front pipe gasket. Have a pulley holding tool but will need to order a new crank pulley bolt. Have the proper manual and have printed everything off to have a read...

Parts ordered, is there anything I have missed? Head gasket Inlet manifold seals Exhaust Manifold gasket Valve Stem Seals Head Bolts Exhaust valves Valve Guides Timing Chain Timing Chain Tensioner Oil Filter Coolant

Getting together a list of what I need, will post a list of parts ordered tomorrow in case I have missed anything. 1: Tools, I have a huge toolset so all the basic stuff will be covered, but specifics for this car, I have ordered the timing locking tool set, is there anything else I am likely to need? 2: What is the go-to sealant for sump, timing cover etc. On the SAABs I usually use anaerobic sealant (Locktite 518). Suitable? Or is there a preferred option? Thanks.

I like a challenge I knew about the timing cover / sump etc, which is leaking anyway so needs doing. Anything else obvious to do while I am in there? Presume new timing chain. Are the tensioners a lifelong item or worth replacing? Chain guides? Thanks.

Thanks, I have had a quick look but without spending an awful lot they all seem to be a similar mileage to this one, so wouldn't be confident they would be any better. If it is just the head I am happy to have a go, I'll do the work myself (actually quite enjoy it) and I have a 2 week window early October where the car isn't needed. I'll get all the parts priced up first to get an idea...

Okay so we have a problem! Original compression test (done on a warm but probably not full temp engine) was on 21st August, so 4 weeks ago, and result was 11 / 9.5 / 9.5 Today we have: Cold Engine: 11 / 9 / 7.75 Cold Engine + Oil: 12.5 / 10.5 / 9 - All roughly + 1.5 but cold engine presumably tolerances are greater Hot Engine: 11.5 / 9.5 / 8.25 Hot Engine + Oil: 12 / 10.25 / 9.5 - All roughly +0.75 So #3 is detereorating... Head off, leak test, probably need valve guides and exhaust valves?

Hi, Completely remove and checked, and looks perfect, thanks.

Thanks, will do. Sorry to be pedantic but what sort of amount? Like a teaspoon full?

I am happy to take the head off and presumably replace the exhaust valves if that is what needs doing, almost at the point where I will do it just to rule it out! If I go down that route what else would be prudent to change while I am in there? The only thing that puzzles me in this case is that the problem is intermittent, surely it would be a constant, and how poor compression would relate to the above error codes? I'll recheck the compression at cold, and working temp and see what i get and report back. Thanks guys.

I did a compression test a couple of weeks ago and got 11 / 9.5 / 9.5 (1, 2, 3) which I think looks okay? The fuel filter is 4 bar, this was replaced after the problem started but didn't seem to make any difference.

Struggling resolving this. Cleared all the codes and the following came back after a couple of drives. It is pretty undriveable in the recent hot weather, not so bad on a cool rainy day but still far from normal. 16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 P0172 - 007 - System Too Rich - Intermittent 16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys P0441 - 008 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent 17549 - Load Calculation Cross Check P1141 - 007 - Implausible Value - Intermittent Evap valve was replaced when the problem first appeared. Wonder if there are multiple faults...

I have done a full scan after clearing the codes and it has also thrown this one up:- Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels: 6R0-907-37x-ABS82.clb Part No SW: 6R0 907 379 S HW: 6R0 907 379 AB Component: ABS8.2 front H03 0001 Revision: -------- Coding: 400100DB006D00BA022D00E600D800000000 Shop #: WSC 13765 790 00049 VCID: 4EC57CE1E093BDDACD7-801A 1 Fault Found: 01314 - Engine Control Module 013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00101101 Fault Priority: 0 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 26 Mileage: 138157 km Time Indication: 0 Date: 2023.09.03 Time: 13:21:18 Freeze Frame: Hex Value: 0x0000 Hex Value: 0x8000 Hex Value: 0x1212 Hex Value: 0x13B0 Hex Value: 0x01FF Hex Value: 0x007F Hex Value: 0x7F00 Hex Value: 0x0000

I purchased a VCDS to read any codes properly and hopefully get some more info, it has found three issues. It is worth mentioning that the car has been notably much worse on very hot days. 16556 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 P0172 - 007 - System Too Rich - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Voltage: 0.740 V Voltage: 0.820 V Lambda: 0.0 % Bin. Bits: 00001000 Voltage: 0.860 V Voltage: 0.780 V Lambda: 0.0 % Bin. Bits: 00001000 17549 - Load Calculation Cross Check P1141 - 007 - Implausible Value - Intermittent Freeze Frame: Lambda: 37.1 % Lambda: -37.1 % Lambda: 36.7 % T.B. Angle: 3.8° 18529 - Post-Catalyst Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Correction; Bank 1 P2097 - 006 - Too Rich - Intermittent Freeze Frame: RPM: 3072 /min Mass Air / Rev.: 163.5 mg/str Lambda: 0.0 % Voltage: 0.580 V RPM: 2240 /min Mass Air / Rev.: 223.5 mg/str Lambda: 0.0 % Voltage: 0.080 V I cleared them and it hasn't had a stalling episode yet, but the idle is up and down pretty regularly. Can anyone suggest the next course of action please? Thanks.

Thanks, I have checked all the pipes, by eye, by feel and with a camera and I can't find any split or leaking.