Newton_Durham

Oh, I've stayed there when I used to live in the UK. Bit warmer where I am now. Have a Mk2 myself waiting for some work to be done. Hope I can get it to looking just a nice as yours.

So an update - things going super slowly more due to not really having enough spare time and money. Also, found out really quickly that I didn't have the right tools for a lot of the jobs so have needed to enlist help from friends which has been even harder to tie down when they and myself are free so I've done some things and had a few wins as well. Front discs and pads done - had a friend do these who used to be a Euro mechanic a few years ago. He took 1 look at the rears and went without a hoist I'm not doing them. so it's now of to a Euro garage for that and the sway bar link's to be done. Battery replaced and lo and behold it fixed a warm aircon! Didn't think in a million years that would get fixed like that but saying that, the battery was well under-sized for the car so guessing there just wasn't enough juice coming from it for all the electrical stuff. Only 1 error code remains on the OBD and that's the Rear Deck Lid speaker. Now I know where that is just need to order another speaker (had to do the one behind the dash for the parking sensors which I did today. Boy that was a pain) Got new alloy's on which need a balance. Car is booked in for the 29th April to get the work required done (need a rear wiper motor as well, as nothing happens other than the water pump from the reservoir - no water or movement at the rear) - so 3 months from when I got her. Can't wait to get her registered and on the road.

So, here comes more questions that I hope I can get some help with. Purchased an OBDEleven and got the following errors: Fault code: 00883 Issue: Ignition/starter switch (terminal S) Implausible signal Status: Intermittent (feeling it's now static as car won't start but there's also battery issues as well) Fault code: 01625 Issue: Front Parking aid warning buzzer Open circuit/short circuit to ground Status: Static Have worked out I need a new buzzer Fault code: b105a1b Issue: Covering for fuel level indicator sensor 2 Resistance too high Status: Intermittent (explains an issue I had when I picked the car up not showing how much fuel was in the tank. Not had it since though) Fault code: 02811 Issue: C steering column lock control module No signal/communications Status: Intermittent Fault code: 02233 & 02234 Issue: Left & Right headlight power output stage. Lower limit not reached Status: Static Fault code: b11df13 Issue: Rear lid warning buzzer. Open circuit Status: Static I cleared the faults and only the rear lid one remained. Have tried to do this again but the battery is now dead so not going to bother charging it as I have a new one coming in a few weeks. My question for this last one is this. Is this the same buzzer that's for the rear parking sensor? I've googled it and found absolutely nothing on it. The fault code gives me no results. Also, should I be worried about the other codes that have appeared?

Seen a few posts regarding the rear wiper not working and mine has that as well. Now, when I turn them on, nothing happens. When I activate the spray, I hear that motor running in the engine bay but nothing comes out on to the rear window. 1 post mentioned it was the lock for the boot (mines a wagon/estate) that needed adjusting but mine looks completely different, possibly as it's a powered tailgate. I've gone to check the fuses and the manual says it should be fuse 39 which in my car has a perfectly fine 7.5amp fuse. The diagram on the back of the panel is showing 39 to be empty but the wiper in 41. That has a 5amp fuse which is also perfectly fine. Can someone clear this up for me? Diagram below is from the book. Cheers Chris

Yeah, no start-stop button in the car or the manual. No coding for me 🙂

Well, there is no start/stop button in the car so guessing I don't have it.

Ok, I'll have to check for that. There was no engine cut out when stopped at lights on the test drive or the drive home so guessing that it doesn't.

I've finally joined the Skoda Club. After months and months of umming and erring I finally did it and got SWMBO to allow me to get rid of my boring 6 and into something interesting again. Currently unroadworthy and unregistered - parts have already been purchased and I'm waiting for them to enter my hot little hands so I can get to work on her. No name yet, but thinking Stealth as once finished, all the badges will be blacked out and the alloy's as well. Parts coming (just to get it roadworthy) DBA T2 discs front and back ATE Ceramic pads front and back Sway bar links (doing all 4 but only 1 required for the roadworthy) Rocker cover casket. The pads were hard to find here in Australia so they are coming from Lithuania quicker than the discs are that are here in Australia! I do have a question about the battery though. Does it really need to be coded? I've got an OBDEleven coming so (as long as I've bought the right one) I can do that.

Title sort of says it all, would the 20" alloys from the Kodiaq fit the MkII Superb? From what I can tell, a 225/30 wouldn't screw around with the speedo to much more if the wheel arches can take it and/or the offset needs to change

Hey everyone, Took a 2010 RS for a test drive today and for a machine with close to 300000 km's on it, it drove really well. Noticed a few issues I've got the dealer looking into but I wanted to get some opinions from others. Light bulb error light - dealer reckons it's the side lights and yes they didn't work but drl's and mains did. Guessing this could be bulbs or fuses. Anything else others have had issues with for this one? ESC/ABS warning light and error message - seen this from this forum there's a guide on how to fix this. Could there be anything else other than part replacement? Clutch. Been a few years since I've driven a manual and boy did I love it but the bite point of the clutch seemed very very high on the pedal travel. This a sign of the clutch dying or could it just need a service? A knocking noise from the passenger (rhd car) rear wheel area when driving - It's consistent - doesn't increase with speed. Dealer tried to say it was the little knobs on the brand new tyre's but then said they had replaced the bearings on 1 of the rear sides but couldn't remember which one. I was thinking that the wheel wasn't balanced correctly. I've not committed to this even though the dealer has removed it from the website I saw it on (am waiting on a private seller returning from a holiday to check out a 2011 Superb 2T v6 wagon with 90000km's) All and any advice would be grateful. Cheers Chris

Ok. Thank you for your replies. Think it'll be the RS.

Hence me asking - In my head mostly because of the power between the 2 of them and the awd system

Hi everyone, the Missues has finally caved and is letting me get a Skoda but I'm wanting some advice from those that have owned one of these machines. My experience is of them as a taxi when I lived in the NE England some 13 years ago. I've seen advertised (not gone to look yet as one is a distance away) a 2010 V6 Superb hatch with 176k km's on the clock or a 2015 Octavia RS wagon with 295k km's on the clock. Both priced the same. Should I be scared by the high mileage on the RS? I'm sorta gravitating to it as it's a wagon but do the Superb's have a 'trick' tailgate that can open 2 different ways? Also the space in the back seat makes me want the Superb! I'm after something fun to drive even on the daily commute. Have a 2015 Mazda 6 currently and it's boring as hell to drive and sounds horrible. I'm used to driving Holden Commodores and my last car was an A45 Any advice is really appreciated!

Hi to one and all I'm Chris and SWMBO has finally succumbed and will allow me the Skoda I want - I have questions but they'll go in the right forum but for now Hello everyone