s3elan

Window problems on Octavia 2 2007 VRS estate. Also Mk 5 Golf. The problem is that the N/S rear window goes up when it should be going down and visa versa. Something you could live with but it does render the close windows facility on key locking as useless. The window opens when the other three are closing. The problem occurred when I disconnected the rear NS door switch to remove the door card trim. When I reconnected the switch the up and down were reversed. Also the one touch up or down did not work. Firstly I can tell you that it is impossible to reverse any connections or incorrectly fit anything in the window system. This is a software problem and the only true remedy is to buy a new controller that fits into the window motor unit with 6 plastic clips. I’m not sure if it is available without the motor unit attached. A complete used unit can be purchased for £20 to £30 on Ebay. The electronics are very complex. There are two 40 pin IC’s plus a further three smaller IC’s in each door controller to run the CAN network and the various other window features. Each window controller is addressable with its own unique ID. The motor is operated by a power MOSFET via a reversing relay. Motor current sensing is used to monitor the fully up or down positions or when the window is ice bound. A stall situation caused by an obstruction when closing is also sensed the same way. The current rises as the motor stalls and the supply is cut. I decided to try and sort the problem out. I easily removed the door card and then the motor unit disconnecting the main plug. My plan was to reverse the connections to the motor if possible. I unclipped the control unit from the motor and drive unit. Fortunately it is fitted with a brushed DC motor so the supply can be reversed to change the direction of rotation. The only possibility was to cut through the PCB copper tracks and reverse them by soldering short cross over wires as per the photos. I put it all back together and now at least the window works in the right direction and key opening and closing is now possible. The one touch facility continues not to work. I have tried the window reset procedure to no avail. Unfortunately the Best Answer definitely does not apply to my Mk2 Octavia VRS Estate. To quote: “On the regulator there is a metal bit with four screws that if you turn 180 degrees it reverses the motor”. The only metal bit is the motor and to make a connection it has to be in the position shown. I have many years of experience in electro mechanical engineering. Hope this is write up is helpful and sorry about the quality of the Pics.

Yes I knew there was a reason for loosening the 3 camshaft bolts. Explained very well by Aubrey above:- Remember the camshaft itself with it's lobes has not moved in this process only the sprocket on the front of it has - hence timing has NOT been altered. If you had the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket locked, then when the belt was tensioned only the left hand side of the belt would tension as there could be no pull applied by the tensioner on the right side of the belt run. Thanks

Great guide. Always like to read up on the subject before tackling the job although I have done it a few times before. Like VRS-Badman above I cant understand / remember why you undid the three cam pulley bolts? I think there is a reason but just cant fathom what it is at the moment. I always mark the old cam belt clearly with the exact position of the timimg marks on the cam pulley and the crank pulley. Once removed I very carefully transfer these marks to the new cam belt checking at least 3 or 4 times that I have marked it correctly with the right number of teeth between the marks. Replace the new cam belt back in the same marked positions and the timing cannot be wrong even if something has moved slightly. I know lots of people dont like this approach for some reason but I have been using it for many years. Thanks again for taking so much trouble with the guide.

I forgot to mention in the original post that the Mirror demisters can only be switched on while the engine is running. Initially maximum voltage (alternator voltage around 14 volts) is applied to the Mirror demister element producing maximum heat output for initial de-icing and demisting. Within a few minutes the voltage is modulated (reduced) using Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). This results in a reduction in current and hence the heating effect is reduced. This saves power and probably considerably extends the life of the heating elements especially as most of us leave them on. It is also very possible that the modulation timing is linked to outside temperature but I am not certain of this.

Skoda Octavia ll 2007 VRS Estate Heated wing mirror problems. Recently I have become aware that both door mirrors demisters have stopped working. Sure that it must be a fuse or relay as both mirrors did not work I decided to investigate. I always Google such problems but there was not what I would call a conclusive solution and in fact many conflicting suggestions on how they work and possible remedies. This is how mine work. First of all there is no fuse specific to the mirrors or the rear screen demister. There is however a 40A relay 53 in location HHZG under the dash which controls the Rear Screen Demister. You can hear it click when you press the rear demister button. The Door Mirror demisters are completely independent of the rear screen demister. There is no relay for the Mirrors on this model. (2007 Octavia ll VRS Estate). It is possible to turn the Door Mirrors demisters On and Off with the door switch. The wiring and switch all appeared to be working correctly so I turned my attention to the Mirrors. I carefully removed the two wires from each Mirror glass and unclipped the OS and NS mirror. I tested the heating elements and got a stable reading of 64 Ohms on the OS and 85ohns on the NS mirror . This seemed high to me as using Ohms Law I = V/R therefore the OS mirror can only be taking a little over 200ma which is not enough to heat the mirror significantly. Purely out of interest I removed the black plastic back plate of the mirror glass and exposed the element. The element was undamaged and still perfectly bonded to the glass. I removed the element from the glass with a glue solvent. See Pic. The 30 vertical black carbon elements are connected in parallel. These have deteriorated and ceased to conduct over a period of time. As parts of the carbon track cease to conduct so the overall resistance of the mirror element increases. This causes the current to decrease thus the heat produced goes down. This is a gradual process over time in both Mirrors and therefore goes unnoticed. I sourced 2 new original mirrors on Ebay at a cost of £25 for both. I tested the new mirror elements the resistance was 15 ohms for the OS and 12 ohms for the NS hence each mirror draws approximately 1 Amp and are warm to the touch in 2mins. So if you have mirror problems start by testing the element resistance with a multimeter. It may save you some time. Incidentally both my old mirrors still looked like new with no deterioration of the silvering. Hope this Info is of help to others. Ps What a great car the Octavia VRS petrol Estate is. Just looking for my third one.

My vrs estate has been suffering from a creaking anti roll bar for some time. As a temporary measure squirt a little oil on the bushes and the noise disappears. The problem is caused by the poorly designed bush arrangement. The anti roll bar is the same as that used by a 4wheel drive Golf. There are plastic sleaves around the bar under the rubber clamp bushes. These plastic sleaves allow rust to form between the bar and the sleave hence the creaking and knocking noises. This can in exceptional circumstances lead to the bar breaking. I have now purchased a new redesigned bar (

Hello everyone. I own a standard 03 vrs estate in black. A great replacement for my golf GTI. I also have a 1968 Lotus Elan s3 coupe hence my s3elan username. I'm looking forward to getting lots of useful Info from the Briskoda site.