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Cherryville

Finding my way
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Everything posted by Cherryville

  1. Thanks Madalin T, this 2017 Kodiaq 2.0 4x4 I have bought from the original owner from new has a full supplying main dealer service history with cam belt and water pump being renewed at 71k miles. Current miles is just 74500 miles. I should be fine given the low mileage and history. Reason for asking is I was reading about the Ford Ecoboost engines which are a disaster because of the oil pump wet belt setup.
  2. Are these oil pump belts in the sump ribbed belts or 'V ' belts ? Thanks.
  3. Hi Guys, I wish to remove the front grill because I wish to wrap its chrome surround in satin black wrap. I have seen it done on Youtube without grille removal but I would prefer taking the wrap around the edges which means detaching the outer chrome trim. I did remove the top screws along by the slam panel but this upper panel does not want to come off. Any tips from someone who has removed their Kodiaq main front grill will be much appreciated. Thanks.
  4. Thanks for reply Warrier193. No, I was not aware of revs being limited on stationary vehicle. That would explain no other error codes apart from the 2 relating to airbags. Good news for a change which I will take any day. Regarding coding I am not sure. I deleted fault codes only for them to reappear with the information I gave in my original post.
  5. Thanks for your reply FREEDOMLite. It is a Kodiaq and the replacement bags came out of a kodiaq so I would have expected no compatibility issues. Will have to get it looked at as I am wary of things possibly going wrong and bags deploying when working at them. I was hoping it might have been a wiring issue. Regarding the control unit, I was hoping whoever was going to be doing the diagnostics, and work, would possibly be able to erase memory from control unit. I did not know the control unit had to be sent away to have all memory erased.
  6. Hello all, My Skoda had a side impact causing the front passenger seat and curtain bag to deploy. Door was replaced and both airbags were replaced with guaranteed used ones from a breaker ( no airbags were deployed or flood damage to donor vehicle which bags came out off ). My scanner is showing the following fault codes and they return immediately after being cleared. B10051A with comment, head curtain airbag igniter resistance to low. B100A11 with comment, front passenger side airbag igniter short circuit to ground. Do I have to have the headlining removed to check the wiring for the curtain airbag and what is the likely fault to these 2 'igniter' related problems. Not sure if this is related, though I expect it might be. When I start up, the engine will only rev up to 3k revs and no more. Have not taken it out on the road in case it goes into limp mode. The scan only came up with the above 2 airbag fault codes, no others. Thanks
  7. Many thanks for the reply. I will take it down the road to test what you suggest. As there is another car at the house we just use it until the guy comes to delete the airbag light .
  8. Can I please ask, when your airbag light was on, was there a restriction of the engine revs ? I am waiting to get my airbag light put off but in the meantime the engine will not rev over 3000 RPM , that is with blipping the throttle. I am currently not using the car with the airbag light on due to not revving out. My car is a 2017 2.0 tdi manual box. I am wondering if there is second fault, not linked to the airbag one needing addressed. Thanks
  9. If I were contemplating this conversion I would be going to a car breakers yard to check interior seating match yours and state you will require every nut, bolt and washer relating to the parts you are buying. A 'package deal' from the one donor vehicle would be the most economical way to go about the conversion. I would even go as far as to ask if there was a possibility you could assist in the removal of required parts as this would be of great benefit when fitting to your own car.
  10. Hi guys, I was not expecting, or wanting, any heated discussion when I asked my original question. I have purchased my new towbar with the recommended electrics, wiring and 'smart box' from my trusted local 'Motor Factors'. As previously stated the supplied wiring is obviously designed to just extend to the the rear corners of the boot. There are no long lengths supplied to facilitate going to the cars dash area. I do not have a rear camera fitted, just the parking sensors in the bumper which will not be a concern as I will only be occasionally using my 6' X 4' trailer.
  11. I know it a while now but can I ask how did you get the electric function work on the Kodiaq seats if your old ones were manually operated ?
  12. Hello guys, thanks to Admin. for allowing me to join your Forum. I have recently purchased a 2017 2.0 tdi 5 seat SE L manual 4x4 Kodiaq and will be fitting a towbar to it very shortly. My question relates to the wiring of the towbar to the car. In the past I have always fitted and wired the towbar to my cars, including those with can buss wiring requiring a 'smart box'. Is the Kodiaq wiring different in any way that will not allow the purchase of a £50 bypass relay kit from Ebay to be used ? I have noted from their contents there is only sufficient cable to extend to the rear light clusters where connections are assumed to be made. All I want is basically the trailer lights to work as required and without possibility of damage to the cars electrical system. My car does have parking sensors but no reversing camera. Is there the facility to turn off the parking sensors while I have my trailer attached to the car, or has anyone retrofitted a system to allow them to be silenced while the trailer is being used ? Thanks in advance to any responses which will be greatly appreciated.
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