VAskodas

I already did a scan with OBDeleven and no faults were found. I still need to check live data though for better picture of the fault. At this point theoretically there should be some indication of a fault because of such an obvious difference in temperature coming out the vents. But no AC fault stored in vehicle. The thing I can’t understand is if there is no faults about the air flaps being in wrong position how on earth I’m getting warm air from passengers side????

I want to mention that even when I turn off the AC and set only the fans to blow outside air into car I still get warmer air from the passenger side air vents compared to drivers side. How you explain this? Does the air flaps not in proper position and allowing the hot air from the engine to pass through???

Yes it gets cool enough when outside temperatures are below 25°C. As you can tell this is not representative ac efficiency because the temps are already low enough to even turn On the AC. I want to mention again the other problem that I have were I get warm air coming out from passenger side vents on lowest AC temp settings no matter if I use the SYNC button or individual setting for driver and passenger side. Any thoughts here???

I don’t have any measuring device to check the interior temp but it certainly doesn’t get to 16°C. If I could measure the temp even from the vents I don’t think it can push 16°C. The ambient temp certainly plays a role but I don’t think 31,5°C is too high for the AC to struggle in producing cool air. Summer time here in Greece can go up to 39°C but still on my old 2003 fiat stillo the ac can cool the air significantly more than my 2016 Octavia 3.

I did not yet checked live data but I will. One more symptom of the issue is when pressing the ac button I hear a small hissing noise like gas travelling through pipes while I’m inside the car. I read that this is also an indication of low refrigerant. Can you confirm this? Is this something you also know as a low refrigerant symptom?

Hello to everyone. My issue is that AC is not so cold and I’m trying to find if I’m missing something before I go to the dealership or at any shop. The AC gets cold at some degree but not enough not even close to what it should be I guess. The second thing is that it seems that from half of the vents (passenger side) I’m getting heat instead of cold air on lowest temp setting!!! So I guess I have two problems that I don’t know if they relate to each other. My troubleshooting steps was: - checking the cooling fans if they activated when ac is working. - Trying to use climatronic on one side each time to confirm that only drivers side is getting cold and the other one does not. - Performed an ac flap reset (multiple times, both with buttons combination and by the use of OBDeleven. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

Correction update: I was wrong! This is PCV intake valve. Apparently there are 2 PCV valves. one is for intake air recurculation and one "exhaust" valve that returnes the gases from crankcase to the intake manifold. The last one i was looking but wrongly assumed the other one and replace it. No harm. Still looking for the exhaust/returne PCV valve...

Update: Did make it without braking something. Actually it was an easy job. A pull from the side and a little wiggle side to side afterwards. Just to clarify i did not had any issues with my engine or its operation, this was just a preventive maintenance i decided to make. The video link of the replacement here.

i will give it a try tonight...

I have both owners manual and the workshop manual documents in PDF but believe me there is too much of missing information there including the replacement of PCV valve. I don't know how any other manual/document can include this info if not those i have. I just hope that someone that did the replacement for himself will give us the much needed info.

I didn't try this method but i surely will, thanks. But in any case i need to know the proper way to uninstall it without braking it. It needs a twist, a push, a pull, a combination to undo it??

Hi guys, I'm on preventive maintenance mode lately cuz my car has over 100k km and i'm wondering if someone here did a replacement of the PCV valve on a petrol Octavia mk3 1.4L TSI. I searched almost the entire internet but i couldn't find anything related to this pcv valve replacement on a octavia 3 1.4L TSI. There is plenty of videos out there that covers this type of replacement but it does not cover my pcv valve type. (i will post a picture of the pcv valve) I want to remove it safely from the engine and not braking something apart and ending inside the valve cover. Thanks in advance.

Here is a short video of what the engine noise is sounds like. (Video link)

To clarify things about the topic, my issue is a brief engine whine noise at cold engine start. I dont know if it is related to catalyst pre heat or oil pump for 100%. The mention about waste gate rattle was just a misunderstanding of the statement "engine start noise" of the title. That's on me. But the info was useful anyway cuz i'm having this issue also. Anyway, i will upload a video of the issue so anyone can clearly understand what the issue is. Thanks.

Well i think this is what the comment states. When the engine is not running for a while and the oil drains down to the oil sump the next start up requires oil pressure build up so the oil can reach all engine parts. And apparently this process generates this noise during start up according to comment on youtube. On the other hand if this is a normal thing then it is a bad design. Thats my opinion. At least we know (not 100% ofc) what is causing the noise.

Hi guys. I might found the reason behind the brief engine start noise on youtube comment. and i quote: "It appears that this is the oil pump gathering up oil after a period of engine rest, and that its ok and known about. This fits as it does not make this sound when you restart after only a short engine 'rest' when the oil has not had time to drain from the oil pump." Link to the video here. This was my issue. The engine whining noise at start. The discussion went to another problem i also have which is the waste gate rattling noise and it is addressed here well. Thanks for that.

It's all part of the stop/start system. The a/c is also connected to it. This also make sense since there is ton of information on how start stop system works and i had read something related with A/C and start stop somewhere.

Interesting. I will try it to confirm this and will update.

Hi to all, Does anybody know what type of steering system my petrol Octavia III 1.4L TSI 2016 is equipped with? I'm a little bit confused cuz in OBDeleven the steering module reports an "Engine start through power steering" active function in long coding tab. (See photo) I hope you can see my confusion here cuz i though i had an electric steering and im getting this active state of engine start through power steering. Maybe the "power steering" also means electric power steering and it can work alongside with the starter motor to start up the engine. Don't know.

I’m an idiot. The info was in front of me all the time. Is on the coolant expansion tank!!! It says G13. Thanks a lot.

Hi, does anyone know what type of coolant I can put in my petrol Octavia 3 1.4 engine code CZDA? I bought my Octavia second hand and don’t know for sure if they put the correct coolant in the engine. The color is Pink. I tried googling it but no luck. Only confusing comparisons between coolant grades and colors and types and compatibilities. The owners manual and the workshop repair manual is useless. Not saying what king of coolant should I use. Thanks in advance.

Maybe I’ll try putting a galvanized or stainless steel Grover to not only holding the forces between rod and plate in a way of spring but release the mechanical tension of the joint and it can also spin if necessary and still holding moving parts so they don’t rattle. I may be very well wrong about this but it just came to me now.

This is exactly what I’m thinking but then again it will affect the vertical rotation of the joint putting more mechanical stress on the movement and my thought stops there. Maybe I’ll try putting some thin flexible metallic piece inside the joint to increase the overall thickness….im not sure about this but I’ll update as soon I try it.

I found the waste gate rod and yes it has a significant play on both sides. I will upload a photo of what am I seeing and a video sample. (See here) My guess is this is just a normal wear of moving parts. This is expected from this type of designs. Now, the fun part is how to resolve this with least effort possible 😁. Any thoughts?

Excellent job. This is the worst case scenario of valve changing I believe. In my petrol Octavia it was way too easy. GJ.