VAskodas

It seems that you have found the answer on how to do it. The described instructions are self explanatory about loosing the ac compressor and replacing the valve. But guys, BE CAREFUL when you working with coolants, AC refrigerant circuits and ware PPE. It’s not worth to loose you sight or have skin or lung damage just to replace a valve.

Thanks. Very helpful information. Now I know at least in which direction I should get my self to find possible fixes or repairs. I will update this topic as soon I have something to add for discussion.

Thanks for the reply. That’s something. It make sense to me since the noise is generated during “cold start” and not when the engine is hot enough. Generally I my self do the repairs on my cars but Unfortunately I don’t know anything about waste gates and turbos so if you have more info on how to check this it would be great. Thanks.

Hello, does anyone has this issue of engine making noise at start just for a couple of seconds? My Octavia 3 1.4 TSI making this noise especially when engine is “cold”. If I stop briefly and then start the engine there is no noise. If I leave it for about 1 hour for example, the noise is back same as before. Is it good or bad thing I don’t know. Some say it’s normal others say it’s common issue on VAG vehicles but not specifying what it is. Thanks in advance.

I have seen a YouTube video that describes this type of engine I think and they didn’t remove any hoses just loosen the holding screws of the compressor. I not positive 100% about this but I’ll try to find that video and post it here.

Hi, there is no way to fix this in my opinion. Just replace it and you done. The location of the valve will be different on every model I suppose. On my petrol Octavia 1.4 it is on the back of the engine, close to oil drain cap and filter.

Hello, I decided to do AC evaporator cleaning but I can’t really find the drain hose for the AC system under the car. My only info about this is in the interior of the car which is located under the passenger side (see photos). My goal is to find the external drain hose to feed the little cleaning tube with the ac cleaning agent. now, I don’t know witch method is the best to clean ac Evap, but my best bet at the moment is to follow this method. P.S: I looked under the car for the drain hose but no luck there. Maybe it’s hidden or too short to find it in engine bay.

Hi, the replacement was very easy. Only removing the heat shield from the cable is required and a T30 torx bit. My Octavia is petrol so I can’t really tell if it will be the same on the diesel superb. The cost for aftermarket valve was 63€ (incl. shipping). Your best chance is to find a valve for your specific vehicle and model and find the exact location of the valve. That’s from me.

I will agree. The only thing that confuses me is that it does not generate engine light on the dashboard. It’s like “oh hello, you have an OIL PRESSURE REGULATION VALVE ERROR but no worries, it’s fine I will not bug you with annoying engine light”

After inspecting the guts of the valve I must point out that there is little to nothing you can do to repair it once it’s malfunctioning. I saw some people trying to use some lubricants or WD40 or Brake cleaner, none of these will work. It’s a simple electromagnetic valve with sealed coils, a spring and the actual valve that comes up and down. When you got the error you replace it and that’s all. PS I did this so you don’t have to.

Well eventually I replaced the valve and the error is gone! Easy job. I took measurement of the new valve and the reading was 25 Ohm. On the old one it was open circuit, no readings. I will try to somehow open the old valve to inspect what went wrong. I hope the delayed repair didn’t make things worse in the long run.

It’s a good start. The internet is full of how to’s and informations about VCDS so it’s safe to say that you will be covered on any issue. I’m using OBDeleven and I’m also covered about pretty much everything I want related to finding a fault or just activating and deactivating stuff in my car. 😉 For example, my last mod was to activate hill hold (hill assistance) and deactivating engine start-stop function permanently.

Well at least you got your car back and running. That’s all that matters I guess. Just hopped that we could help you more with this so you could fix it yourself…..

This is good. Really. Whatever is happening with good intentions is always beneficial for everyone. Even if few people or even just one person will benefit from this it’s a win. Thanks again.

Do it. No problem. In fact I think this will be great for everyone. The true is, the info here is scattered all over the place and if will be summarized in a way of a guide that would be much easier for others not to lose track of the point while reading.

Do you know how often I should charge the new battery for good maintenance? Some guys say check every month and if needed then recharge. others just saying about general info on how the charger is working and its functions but not specifying maintenance charge intervals for best performance and condition. Im guessing that this is one more confusing thing to deal with as no manufacturer will say how to perform maintenance on any of their products for that matter because they have to make a profit doing this by them. Thanks by the way for all info you provided here to help not just me but everyone who perhaps may have same issues or questions to be answered. Cheers.

Ok. So the info i shared from a manufacturer's official site about AGM battery is correct or not??? Because for me it's the only official info that i could get that clearly stated that AGM stands for Absorbent glass fleece or mat. At least you can tell that the AGM and fleece is the same thing. Now for the Binary-AGM i'm not sure. The question is how you can tell if your battery is just an AGM, or Fleece or Binary AGM or it's all the same? Does manufacturers label their products with these distinctions? Because if all these labels and types of AGM batteries are different things then there should be a clear distinction between AGM technologies and should be labeled accordingly in the product. For example: BOSCH S5 A08 70AH 760CCA AGM, or AGM-Fleece, or Binary-AGM! I can't really understand how your reference can answer these questions, just because it's from just another forum, from a youtuber and from a yuasa manufacturer ,which by the way in your reference on bullet 2 does not specify the difference between AGM batteries technology itself, just comparing and explaining the difference between AGM and Standard led-acid batteries? Please excuse my bad English. I'm not a native speaker.

Found some sort of information on how manufacturers describe AGM battery technology. Pretty much they stated that AGM= Absorbent glass matt or fleece. See screenshot from the Continental's website: Here is the link as well: https://www.continental-aftermarket.com/en-en/products/spare-partsrepair-parts/batteries/agm-battery

Done! Adaptation accepted. Can you tell what's the difference between Binary-AGM and Fleece Battery? In drop down menu i get also battery type "Binary - AGM". My battery is BOSCH S5 A08 70AH 760 CCA AGM rating. It does not say Fleece. I selected the Fleece option though.

Not yet cuz i cant really understand which one is the serial number on the battery. I will upload 2 photos of the stickers that is on the battery. If you can recognize which one is the serial number please repost. Thanks.

Well, here's the thing...i didn't know anything about car battery faults before my battery died on me and that's why i started this topic. I make a little bit of a research online about this and the only thing i could try (after troubleshooting for bad alternator if not charging, parasitic drain and stuf..) is to try charging it overnight and see if the car will start next day, but without any luck unfortunately. Then, i ordered a new battery because it was the only way to get my vehicle back on the road again since i have to make a small trip tomorrow of about 165km. Also i ordered a charger noco genius 5 not to revive my old battery but to maintain my new in the long run. But since i will have it i will try the 12v repair mode and after that a good overnight charge just to see if my case is one of those that battery can be saved. We'll see.

I’m not saying that the voltage measurement is the way to go to asses if the battery’s life or condition is good or bad. Just saying that i noticed some difference in measurement after initial try of repair mode of the noco5 unit. I will agree that the load test is the proper way to tell if it’s good or bad. This will happen as soon I but the old battery in the car again as I stated in earlier post. Will see, maybe today.

The measurement was taken after 6 hours off the charger.

I have the battery hooked up for almost 2 hours now and it seems to me that it's working. The 12v repair LED is flashing as it should and i'm getting measured voltage of 15.68 to 15.72 in 1.5sec interval. I removed the charger from the battery for a moment and after taking a measurement again i had a 12.63v steady!!!. So it might doing its magic i suppose...😉

Guys, an update. I installed the new battery and everything is working as it should. Note: Did you know if you battery is bad but you are jump started the vehicle and running but still the car system knows that you have bad battery and it is deactivating the start-stop function? After replacement the function is enabled again and working correctly. Tomorrow i will try the dead battery again once more after a so called 12v repair mode by the Noco genius 5. See ya...