VAskodas

O.K. That's something. So you are saying that when the oil pump is in normal mode only the normal pressure switch is working at that moment and when in reduced mode the other one works, correct? And how about the oil pressure regulation valve sending a fault just only stored in ECU and not on the dashboard?

I believe that this is not the case cuz the engine has 1 pressure switch, one pressure switch for reduced oil, one oil pressure regulation valve and one oil level sensor/temp.sensor. So 4 in total. that's why i'm insisting on lets say high oil pressure switch. I may be very well wrong but that's my understanding. See photos. As for the warning light, it's a mystery to me. Why it does not coming up on a dash board since it's a so important? Or maybe it isn't!! who knows.

That makes sense. And if i count the oil pressure switch that if something goes wrong with the pressure it will give to the driver some indication of the fault, right? But if no excess pressure is build up at that point there is no critical state and that's why there is no an engine light on my dashboard?

Hi, Does anyone knows for sure what is the exact job of the pressure regulation valve and how important is so I can evaluate my next steps? The obvious answer is that its job is to regulate the oil pressure and I believe that this is critical, ok, but the thing is that it is not generating a check engine warning light on the dashboard. Instead the fault is only stored in ECU and cannot be cleared. I’m using an OBDELEVEN scan tool.

To be sure that I’ve tried everything in my power. 😉

Yes indeed. I also don’t think it could make a huge difference if any, but still worth the shot since I will have it on hands. Just for my curiosity. To be 100%.

I agree. I ordered a Noco genius 5 battery charger also and it has a feature that can send the voltage in pulsating way (i believe. Not 100% sure) to de sulfate the plates. Will see how this goes. 😉 I will repost here after the test result.

Oh yes indeed. This was also performed exactly like you mentioned and yes the voltage dropped below 7v!!! Around 6,7v. I tried to charge the battery over night but still no improvement.

Hi and thanks for the input. Well here’s the thing, the load test has been already done by trying to start the engine and the starter is acting here as a load by straining the battery enough. As for the measurement during this test or any type of load test should not be performed by a series connection of a digital multimeter because most of them have only 10A capability and the starter requires many hundreds of amps. Anyway, the car is firing up with jump starter in a fraction of a second so starter also working good. I will agree though about a dead battery. Will see tomorrow when my new battery arrive.

I believe this is just a step that Mark did just by following some online instructional videos or similar. The problem he has is that he cannot able to connect to ABS module at all. I think even if some of the sensors are bad you should still can connect to the ABS module but he can’t.

Well, good luck then. I hope for once the dealer makes it right and will not, as you say, pull your pants down Did you prepare yourself to pay for a new ABS module if they say so? If not, get your ride back home and update the topic. I would like to assist you finding the fault. I'm very positive that it would be a loose ground connection somewhere in your engine bay, specifically the one of the ABS module. Anyway, good luck.

Hello, My Banner battery, 70AH 720CCA, cannot hold charge thus cannot start the vehicle. The measured voltage at first time when i got the problem was 12,4v. I said, ok, maybe it needs charging. Well this is where things go tricky...i've made 165km in that day but when i shut off the car and later that day tried to start the engine it died on me. Fortunately i had a jump starter and i started the car. Next day, i checked the alternator by revving the car up to 2000rpm and volt tested the output. I get 14,5 to 14,7v. According to manufacturer, this is what you suppose to get from a healthy alternator. My next step was to measure for parasitic drain. Again, i wired up my digital multimeter in series with the negative pole of the battery and closed the doors an locked the central locking system. At first seconds I was getting around 200mA for about a minute, then 100mA and finally 56mA. The whole process took about 3 to 4 minutes. As far as i know, somewhere about 50mA it is normal. So, it wasn't a parasitic drain, nor bad alternator. Next step was to charge the battery with an external car battery charger over night. At this point i will say that the charger wasn't a fairly good and strong charger. It was a cheap 5A charger that could charge the AGM battery. As you can guess.....no luck there either. So finally, i decided to order a new battery. Should i tested something else before or am i missing something or there is no other troubleshooting steps to perform???

Any updates Mark????? Did you solve your issue?

OK, this is very similar if not exactly the same problem i was experiencing 2 days ago. First, check for blown fuses of the ABS system in the engine compartment fuse box located at the right top (the 2 big ones. green fuse 40A, blue fuse 20A). Check also for voltage present on the fuses. If you can pull the fuses off and check the pins for each fuse for supply voltage (one of the pins has to have voltage). If everything is OK, then pull off the ABS module plug and measure for voltage on the big pins of the plug (it must be 2 power feeds). Also, check the continuity of the ground pin that is the pin number 13, on my plug at least (check for diagrams of you specific vehicle to be 100%) Last but not least, upload pictures of your engine bay , the ABS module and the ABS plug.

Same issue as we say you cannot connect to ABS module at all? Did you use any scanner to read the codes and you cannot connect to ABS module? If so, try to follow the loom from the ABS module and see if there is a brown wire connected to vehicles chassis. give more info of what steps you performed.

Solved!!! The issue was the boot switch. sometimes stuck sometimes working. I removed the boot switch assembly, lifted a little bit the plastic cover of the switch assembly to relief extra tension that it has on the switch and was preventing correct operation. This is temporary fix though cuz I didn’t have extra time to figure out how to open the switch assembly completely to fix it. The switch now working every time w/o any problem. cheers!!!

My issue is that the boot is not unlocking and ready to open the boot with the switch on demand. By pressing the release button on the remote key does unlock and unlatch the boot as intended.

No it doesn’t. I tried this but no luck. It’s only locking and unlocking the doors, not the boot.

Hello, does anybody facing a boot not unlocking with central locking system issue? When I approaching the vehicle I press the unlock button on my remote Key and all doors are unlocked but the boot is not! I must press and hold the boot button on the remote key in order to unlock it. Another thing is, while the engine is on and I step out to open the boot to grab something from the boot it won’t open. I must shut off the engine, remove the remote the key, press and hold the dedicated button to unlock. Is there something odd with this or my needs are too complicated?!?!

SOLVED!!! There was a bad ground connection of ABS module in engine bay. The bolt was rusty and painted. Also there was a plastic ring between the nut and the bolt and some damage to the ground cable. I removed the plastic ring, remove every rusty spots, gave a little twist to the cable so the remaining wires can connect better to each other and voila!!! My initial measurement on the ABS plug wasn’t proper. I didn’t check the ground of the plug (pin 13), just measured the power feeds with another ground point. My bad!!! I will post some pictures about the finding. Anywho, thanks for the input. I hope this case will help others too. Bye.

Well, i firstly checked the power feed from the fuse box to the abs module plug. (Obviously the fuses were checked first). I’m getting 12.4v on the abs plug (the 2 thick wires of the plug and the ground that I can’t remember the pin number). I can’t tell if I know how to load test any component so there is that. The state of the car during measurements was engine off ignition On. All measurements were taken with the same digital multimeter. As for the canbus wires, I will check them today. note: cats are having good time using my engine bay many times so one thing I’m thinking is the possibility of some damage made by the visitors.

Power and module plug are ok. The can bus wires is the way to go I believe. I’ve researched the communication can bus errors and came up with some useful info as you described above, that is to check the canbus wires for open circuit, short to growing, voltages and resistance. Thanks for your reply. Any further input will be appreciated as well.

Hi y’all. Im new here so bear with me. So straight to the point. My issue is, while driving in rainy conditions suddenly many faults appeared on dashboard and my speed gauge dropped to zero. The faults are: ABS, AFS cornering lights, AIR BAG, tyre pressure monitoring, Steering angle sensor, Parking assistant and some others. After a while all faults went away. While driving once more the faults appeared all together but I didn’t stop the vehicle. After a full scan with the OBD ELEVEN i noticed that the ABS has no communication and I couldn’t even see the module. Any ideas???