Aivar1988

Hi! Fabia MK1 Combi 1.4TDI 59kW 2006. I'm searching for sill / rocker repair panels. I found Klokkerholm panels, parts nr. 7514011 (ref OEM nr 6Y6809605K) and 7514012 (ref OEM nr 6Y6809606K) , but the site says 4-door. Does anyone know if the 4-door sills fit the Combi? Or any other maker? Blic? https://shop.klokkerholm.com/xProductCatalogue/productCatalogue.aspx?SearchStr=751401

Just take a large bottle of water and pour it on the window. The outer lower window seal strip isn't that water proof. Especilay in the front strip end. Siliconeing around the speaker surface won't help as the water falls on the plastic cage of the speaker inside the door and runs down the speaker cage inside the cage and seeps through the foam membrane into the saloon of the car. I will eventually remove the passanger door's inner card aswell to see where it's leaking.

I'm truly sorry for making another leaking door thread, but I can't find much info about the front doors. I just finished sealing the rear doors. Now I noticed the front doors leaking. I have removed the driver's side door inner panel (had some trouble with the window motor) and now noticed, that the speaker's lower part of the foam membrane is soaking wet after we had heavy rain (picture nr.1). I checked the passanger's side speaker through the panel grill and it seemed to be dry. The driver's side speaker has been remowed and reinstalled with silicone and screws by the previous owner, but I can't see how this could cause this problem. Also the passanger's side door seems to leak a little bit (picture nr.2). Should I remove both inner cards and reseal them with silicone as I did the rear doors?

Update #2! So I managed to change the AC line 3 weeks ago, and it's still blowing cold air. 1. AC line - Thermotec KTT160048 (cheapest line I could find, about 15€). The o-ring on the line, is too thin and must be replaced with an original o-ring "8E0 260 749"! Also you may need a 4mm spring pin for the same condenser line end, as the new line doesn't have one and the old one is probably stuck. 2. Coupler / connector repair kit - Thermotec KTT400009 (it's rather this 5€ repair kit, or the original kit for about 60€). BUT AGAIN... the purple o-ring is way too small (see the attached picture) and I think the circlip was too big. I ended up inspecting the OEM o-ring and re-using it. Only changed the green locking frame. Oh, and you can only change the coupler repair kit from under the car, IF you gonna change it at all! If I would have known, that the Thermotec cheap kit was useless, I wouldn't have opened it at all. 3. I did not put the line clamp back, which is holding the line to the radiator frame. I read here, that this is the main failure spot, as the line oxidizes under the clamp. Mine was also really oxidized allready, but did not have a hole in it yet.

Update! 1. The o-ring on the cheap line does not work (too thin), so you need the OEM o-ring anyways for the condenser end. And you may need a 4mm spring pin for the same condenser line end. The new line doesn´t come with one and it's impossible to remove it from the old line! Unless it's stuck/oxidized to the condenser side. 2. How do you change the connector/coupler repair kit inside the connector? Do you do it from under the car or you release the rest of the pipe and twist it somehow? I quess I can remove the circlip washer by feel, but I have no idea how to put the new repeir kit back in?! Is the o-ring squished in the connector, on top of the green locking thing? Do I need to apply some pressure on the green locking cage, while refitting the circlip or not?

Found out my AC line is leaking. Is there any difference, which brand to choose? OEM 300€ Vemo 200€ Metzger 45€ unknown brand "Premium Quality - Original AIC Quality" product number "55968" - 14€. (Is it even the entire line for this price? ) I mean, how different can they be? Would you use the cheapest one? I quess I need to change the gasket kit/coupler, inside the connector?! And order some extra o-rings for the condenser end? Do I need to remove the front bumper and the condenser?

For the central locking issues check the wires for both front doors. Had the same issue with random locking and then not locking at all. Drivers side wires were broken. That brown connector is for the central locking.

I really don't want to go offtopic here, but I was in the understanding, that every electronic "comfort" accessorie of the car, including the power windows, go through this module AND one time, the windows stopped working after another short circuit episode, with the instrument cluster dark for half a second. Looking back it was another rainy day and I had my wipers on. I will address the power window problem in the proper thread.

Just wanted to thank the OP! Changed the relay yesterday and this job is not for beginners. Use a soldering fan or bring it to a professional. It is very difficult to get the old relay out with only a normal soldering iron and it's easy to damage the two sided board. With the help of a desoldering pump I got only 4 legs out of 10 cleared. The rest I had to heat one by one and push the relay out until I was able to cut the legs between the board and the relay. TOOK ME HOURS! Comfort module: SIEMENS 6Q1 937 049 D Relay: TYCO V23084-C2002-A403 New alternative relay: HFKD012-2ZST The old relay still worked, but it was short circuiting very rarely, making the fault diagnosing difficult. I opened the old relay and you can see the slightly burnt contacts (I bent it to take the picture). I have owned the car for about 2 years now and this relay has been driving me crazy the whole time. I could hear something short circuiting and even dimming the instrument cluster for half a second and I couldn't figure out what was causing it, as it happened only a couple of times a year and the wipers kept working. Adding the not working power windows to this electronic mess (my next mission), it really didn't help me finding the source of the problem. I have even opened up the comfort module once before to check if there's any moisture damage, while trying to fix the power windows. Finally I realized, that the short circuiting sound was occurring while the wipers were on the intermittent speed and working for a long time. I quess the contacts heated up or something. So after reading this post about the problematic wiper relay, my car has now one less problem.