stuartb3502

The sun visor hinge point is removed by: Opening screw cover (pointed trim tool or carefully with corner of small flat blade screws driver/knife) Remove screw (torx T20) The fitting will pull or drop down a bit but likely won't come out as pointed out by others The fitting is held at the end towards the rear of the car. So, it needs to be pushed towards the windscreen to disengage the end towards the rear. Then pull that end down and it can be removed. It may be easy or difficult despite the bits of plastic holding it in perhaps only being 1-2mm My driver's side needed levering down gradually to remove. It causes some damage to those tiny points of plastic holding it in, but it will be held by the screw when refitted, so not the end of the world. My passenger side came out easily first go. .... Now who will be the one to point out this is reviving an old thread when that's, a) completely irrelevant and, b) they're incapable of contributing anything of use themselves?

Hydrate 80 ideally used on clean metal. Plenty of people say to put on rust, but that’s the advice I got a month ago from Bilt Hamber. I was trying to buy it as prep for a subframe with surface corrosion. The guy who replied was surname Hamber, so I’m guessing he knew what he was on about. If you want to protect it for a short time while waiting to have it done, I think there a few ways. It depends on extent of rust, how much is hidden, how much work you want to do etc. Not an expert, suggestions… Remove loose stuff. Then degrease/clean. Bilt Hamber Surfex HD is just a generally superb product to have around for cleaning just about anything. Get 5L and you won’t regret it (dilutes a lot). Use it very diluted and make sure surfaces are very well rinsed afterwards. The surfactants in it can otherwise prevent some of the products working (according to BH). If it’s not very dirty, or as a way to ensure a clean surface after Surfex HD degreasing , spray and wipe with isopropyl alcohol or a 50/50 mix with water. Getting areas dry afterwards is obviously tricky at this time of year, so patience may be needed. A blower and or heat gun used carefully may help. Then… Spray with Bilt Hamber Atom Mac. Cheap and quick. Perhaps suitable for short term protection. This can be used also if you prep to bare metal and wash to prevent flash rusting. or Coat with a grease or wax product. I’ve just slapped a blob of Corrosion Block (made by people who make ACF50) on a stone chip on the Yeti until I can paint. or Try a paint on rust converter like Kurust. I’ve found it to be good stuff. It needs to work on rust rather than bare metal although it does still react and coat bare metal. Won’t work well on thick rust as it can’t get to stuff underneath so that would need wire brushing or similar. I use before stone chip touch ups, but have also used on a mower deck about 3 years ago which then remained unpainted. Not always out in the rain of course, but stayed protected. Rust starting to reappear now on that. Do not get on skin or eyes. I know most products say this, but take the warning seriously for Kurust. or Use BH Dynax UB or UC (UB brown, UC clear). I recently did the subframe and suspension members on another car after wire brushing, cleaning and Kurust. Dynax can be bought in a tin for brushing or in an aerosol. Protect surrounding ares, clothes, wear a mask. They also do S50 which is for internal cavities. For body panels, you find an access whole and use a straw on a spray can to coat inside. Not tried this yet. BH have rust remover (not converter) called Deox. They do a powder and a gel. I have used the powder for (which you dissolve) for rust removal in a fuel tank. It’s intended for parts which can be immersed. I found it decent, but also used citric acid which I found to do a similar job. The gel is more suited to body panels. I think it can do a good job, but it’s much more difficult and you would then need to protect bare metal. This video shows a way to use it on a wheelarch:

Good to know that your Origamis are holding up well. A well looked after car I suspect. I did see some sold last year (2015, 50,000 miles) which had no kerbing but were getting white worm issues. https://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/threads/sold-set-of-origami-silver-black-wheels-from-l-k-sold.14430/ My wife's a good and careful driver, but has kerbed her wheels a couple of times on current car (18" wheels/low profile tyres however so much less forgiving). I’ve found diamond cuts to be a pain however. I have them on my Golf (2010). Never kerbed, but stone chips now causing problems with white worm. Have had quotes recently for those (about £120 down here).  Can only be done twice due to the cutting needed (and I’m guessing the Yeti’s will already have been done at least once). Powder coated lasts much longer in my experience as lacquer on the colour layer much tougher than lacquer on bare alloy and there are just more thicker layers.   Can also be refurbed more times if there’s no actual damage. Our Scirocco is the same age as the Golf with powder coated. Although they eventually pick up marks which can’t easily be cleaned and may warrant a refurb. to look pristine, they don’t start to corrode as easily. A simple touch up stop issues whereas lacquer on diamond cuts tends to get a bigger chip and by the time you see it, it’s too late and impossible to touch up.     I think I’ll look into some alternative wheels while the Origamis are still pristine.  Did see that Origamis were/are available in silver (5L0601025L8Z8). Look OK, so perhaps just getting them done in silver is an option. Would have gone for gloss black, but it's a black car so probably not an option I think.

We recently got a Yeti with these wheels. It was bought by previous owner only a year ago from a Skoda dealer and the wheels are unmarked (I'm assuming they have had at least one refurb). I'm thinking about getting them powder coated now before they start suffering white worm since once the corrosion sets in. My thinking is that a refurb (i.e. with material added and/or removed to repair corrosion rather than just stripping and coating) may or may not be possible. Alternative would be to pick up some different powder-coated wheels and perhaps try to sell these. Just wondering if anyone has had theirs painted and what they look like (opportunity for gratuitous pics!)

Thanks. Driven it, but nowhere fun. Will have to sneak out for a play :-). It handles what we loosely call road surfaces now a lot better than my Golf which is half the battle.

I did this today. You do need a screwdriver short enough to go inside the open glovebox. If you're at an angle from outside the box its nigh on impossible. The trick is that you need to get the blade of the screwdriver very close to the cover of the catch. That is very close to you rather than front of the car. The blade naturally goes into a slot nearer the front of the car. It helps if you have the screwdriver very vertical and then move it just (half a millimetre) behind the cover. I did struggle for a while. Thank goodness for an endoscope which helped a bit. You can also see in the pictures that the locking tab is "hinged" to the left (nearside of car on right hand drive). So you're pressing slightly on the right.

Thanks all. We did end up getting that one in the end for better or worse. Picked up today. Fixed droopy glovebox this afternoon. Now got to flog one of our other cars due to this opportunistic purchase. Wife seems happy with it at least.

On the drainholes - are they visible from the sunroof end or only where they exit? OK - just one Scooby pic 🙂 Mine's on the right. The other is another SIDC member I met up with for the pic.

After inspecting the car, I found carpets to be dry . There was evidence of previous water behind the nearside dash end panel. The Skoda dealer had cleared the drainholes on the last service (just before the seller bought it from them last September). For some reason I struggled to find the drain holes in the time I had to look at the car and have not found any pictures of them viewed from outside the car (all seem to be pictures from inside with headlining removed. I may get my arm twisted by my wife who is keen on the car (despite me passing on what I've learned here). Stuart p.s. ah - an old Impreza Turbo. Had three of them starting in '95. A lot of fun memories.

From reading everything I can about the sunroof, it sounds like the drain tube is a bit of maintenance to keep on top of. Then there is preventative work in terms of improving how the drain tubes are connected to the drain holes (which may or may not have been improved on a later car like this). Then there is the more serious issue of a failure of the joint between aluminium frame and teh plastic sunroof cassette. There's United232's experience there and I see others referencing leaks seeming to happen at the same place after they had cleared drain hoses. There's also a lot of discussion of identical issues on VW forums. In those cases, customer indicate that they have tried various sealants (including Captain Tolley's), but they fail over time. There is also a VW repair bulletin. This is for a different issue (and they say is confined to certain models of Golf). This is for stress fractures in the plastic channel of the sunroof itself rather than failure of the mastic/sealant between the aluminium frame and plastic cassette. But in it VW use a combination of another sealant Teroson MS930 and some foil patches (instead of chewing gum and string obviously) 🙂 The sealant is described as being resistant to weathering and UV and cures as soft elastic seal (which I guess should help it last over time). The VW repair uses it for cracks and as I don't have a sunroof to look at, I don't know how easy/difficult it would be to get into teh relevant place (compared to teh very runny Captain Tolley's for example). There's a person on the VW forum thread who had already repaired their Touareg roof several times with other sealants. They then used the Tereson MS930 (which seems to be readily available) and reckon it will fix the problem. They did the repair at the beginning of this year however so no time to report back on if it lasts long term. Links: https://www.volkswagenforum.co.uk/threads/problems-with-leaking-panoramic-sunroof.44665/ https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10128041-9999.pdf I think I'm leaning away from taking the plunge on this one and may look for a car sans sunroof. I don't mind a bit of tinkering, but without confidence that the repair will last it doesn't seem sensible. Stuart

Hi - thanks for that. I didn't actually know what gearbox it was. It's someone my wife knows and I only got the reg this morning. I had incorrectly thought that the L&Ks were all DSG. Manual is fine. Good info. about the Haldex - will check that. @Prezafab - I think we both like the idea of the pano roof, but reading the number of people who have had issues causes me to pause. At least it's been raining a lot recently and I know the car sits outside so an existing problem should be fairly apparent. Thanks, Stuart

Cool - thanks Gaz. Will take a look.

Hello all, We are going to look at a Yeti (petrol (1.4 I believe) L&K) this weekend for my wife. We have a couple of VWs at the moment and I'm reasonably comfortable with checking over cars. Just wondering what I should be looking for specificially on the Yeti. Through reading on here and elsewhere I'm aware of: Sunroof - will check drains and carpets for signs of existing leaks - have read United232's guide to repairing so would plan on doing this preventatively if it's OK at the moment. Bottoms of doors for corrosion It's got 37k miles so I guess due shortly for DSG service if not already done. I have VCDS so will check codes also. There seem to be a lot of people who say to steer clear of sunroof models altogether so that seems to be the biggie at the moment although the fix (assuming not already leaked) doesn't sound that bad compared to engine, gearbox issues etc. If anyone knows the car (PL66 FDP) feel free to drop me a PM (assume I can receive even if I can't send until I have posted a bit more). Thanks Stuart

Hi - just about to test drive a Yeti which my wife is interested to buy, so haved signed up here to do some research. We currently have a Golf mk6 GTD (mine) and a Scirocco TDi 170 (hers) which we've owned a long time. So in some ways, there's a lot that's familiar. I don't mind fiddling with the cars a bit (have VCDS and done a few minor jobs (glow plugs, ABS sensors, radiator fan etc) and enjoy car stereos (I installed a biggish system in my car along with extensive sound deadening etc. Looking at the Yeti as we want to get a dog. Happy to help with VCDS/Vagcom stuff on <2019 Skodas in the Woking/Camberley area if needed. I am familiar with a lot of stuff on our VWs, but not anything specific to Skodas. Cheers, Stuart