Dr_Mike_Oxgreen

My ringing sound has been getting fainter and fainter over the last couple of thousand miles, to the extent that I didn’t even report it when it went in for a service a few weeks ago - there’s no way a garage mechanic would be able to identify the sound. This possibly supports my suspicion about the brake disc corrosion, which is gradually wearing away.

Wow! That was a struggle! I succeeded eventually. The bulb holder has two flat edges, and by gripping those and wiggling, wiggling, wiggling… it popped out. Once you’ve got it out, it’s obvious that the bulb holder is designed to be gripped and pulled with your fingers, but it is extremely difficult. So I’ve fitted a pair of canbus-friendly LEDs from eBay. They’re much brighter than conventional bulbs, and so far I have no dashboard warning. And they’re a nice colour match against the dipped xenon headlights. I would have preferred to use Philips ones, but I don’t think they do a canbus LED. I smeared a tiny film of lithium grease around the collar of the bulb holder (avoiding the finger grips, obviously) in the hope that they’ll come out more easily if I ever need to get them out. Time will tell whether they last. I’m somewhat hopeful. I seem to remember the failures I’ve had in the past were with LED sidelights housed next to halogen dipped beam bulbs, which obviously are on for long periods and the adjacent LED would get well heat-soaked. Next to the full beam halogen bulb it might not be a problem because you don’t use full beams for long periods at a time.

Have you guys successfully replaced the sidelight bulbs? I’m failing to remove the bulb holder. I can just get my fingers in there, and I can turn the holder slightly, but it really doesn’t want to pull out. Do you simply pull, or do you need to turn it first?

Thanks guys. I’ll try a pair of the blue tinted bulbs and see what they’re like.

My pre-facelift Superb II has xenon lights, with the main beam supplemented by halogen bulbs. It would be nice to replace the sidelights with LEDs to eliminate the colour clash with the xenons, but I note that the sidelight bulbs sit next to the main beam halogens. My experience in the past has been that LED sidelights don’t like being next to the heat of a halogen, and they start flashing after a few weeks. Is this still the case? Has anyone successfully replaced the sidelights with LEDs? A supplementary question: What about replacing those halogen main beams with LEDs? That would solve the issue, but are they MOT friendly?

If yours is a 2015 car, that makes it a facelift model. As I understand, replacing xenon bulbs on the mk2 facelift does involve bumper removal, and you need a D3S bulb instead of D1S. I’m about to have a go replacing mine, but this is on a 2012 pre-facelift so should be easy.

Interesting thought about tyres. In my case, the car has just had a full set of Uniroyal Rainsport 5 fitted. The noise was there before, and still there… so I don’t think it’s tyre related.

I also have a noise, at similar speeds, which matches pretty much all the symptoms you describe. In my case it’s a faint-ish “ringing” sound - sounds a bit like a sound-effect from a 1950s sci-fi movie. Sounds like it’s coming from in front of me, and isn’t affected by cornering, braking or accelerating. There’s no vibration, though. I've only recently bought the car, and from MOT records it appears the car only covered a couple of hundred miles in the preceding year. I notice that there’s a pronounced “lip” of corrosion built up on the outer edges of the front discs, so I wonder if this is rubbing against the callipers or carriers. The car has only covered about 75,000 miles so it seems highly unlikely to be a drive shaft bearing, and it doesn’t fit the symptoms for a wheel bearing. I’ll be following this thread with interest.

The standard place is under the driver’s seat, attached to a metal bracket screwed to the floor. There’s a plastic cover over it that slides off. My Bluetooth module was missing, so I bought one from eBay. It was a five minute job to get everything working. However, my symptoms were slightly different, in that I had no Bluetooth functionality at all - no phone or audio.

I guess they must have done it properly, because the headlights are now really good - perfect level! 🙂

Okay, so the car went in today to have a brake fluid change (couldn’t see any evidence of it in the history since 2017). I asked them to check the headlight level, and they agreed they’re too low. They’ve adjusted them, but I’m not sure exactly what they’ve done. If they’ve simply tweaked the adjusting screws, will the lights simply put themselves back again when they next do the dance? I’ve read that you’re meant to put the lights into learning mode, then tweak the screws, then exit learning mode. I’ll have to wait until darkness to see if their adjustment has been successful.

Should have said: I have a fault code reader, and it didn’t report any codes for the headlights.

My car is a recently purchased 2012 Superb II 3.6 Elegance Combi. I’ve only had it a few weeks, so still getting to know it. The headlights seem to point very low. They only illuminate about 8m of the road in front. That seems too low to my mind - is that normal? They do “the dance” when I start the engine with the light switch on Auto. They go down extremely low (about 1 metre ahead), move about a bit, then go back up to the same level as before. Do I have a problem, or does this sound about right? The fact that they do the dance implies that the motorisation is working, but perhaps they’re getting duff level signals from the sensors on the suspension.

You might well be right there - it’s the only way to account for 90 minutes’ work. i might have a grope around and see if I could get the other two screws in, but for now it’s secure enough I think. The piece of rubber will stop it moving or vibrating, I hope. Also, if this thing occasionally needs rebooting by disconnecting the loom then it might be best not to secure it too much.

I’ve screwed it down using just one M6 screw in the front hole (the rear ones being too much of a PITA to get to). I did stick a piece of self-adhesive neoprene to the rear part of the bracket to stop the module rattling where it’s not secured at the back. On the subject of disconnecting and reconnecting the loom to the module, the plug has a white plastic lever. As you push the plug home, the lever flips itself over the other way. I’m guessing that removal involves flipping the lever back again, which probably ejects the plug from the socket.

Well I only ordered it yesterday,but it’s just arrived. And that job the dealer said I couldn’t do myself, and would take their guys an hour and a half and cost £324 labour (plus whatever the charge for the module) - it’s just taken me 3 minutes. I just need to figure out what screw to use to hold it in place. Plug it in, switch the ignition on, pair my iPhone, et voilà! The Columbus now has a working Phone screen, and the menu on the Maxi-Dot is there as well. It has all my phone contacts and call lists. I’ve even talked to my wife through it. It can also play music, although I have to select it and start it from the phone. Should the Columbus be able to see and browse my music collection?

I called into a ŠKODA dealer today. They said it would be an hour and a half of labour at £324, and they were going to call back with a price for the module itself. Not sure how it would take 90 minutes to plug a couple of connectors in and screw it down. Even if there is some kind of pairing ceremony to perform, that’ll only be 5 or 10 minutes. According to this thread, changing from one revision of the module to a later one is a straight swap, so hopefully it would all just work if I plug a replacement module in. So I’ve ordered a 3C8 035 730 E module off eBay. £180, but a lot less than the dealer wanted. Hopefully it’ll work, but if not I can always sell it again.

Do you mean the dealer who sold it to me might have done this to conceal the fact that Bluetooth wasn’t working? I don’t believe a used car dealer would be so underhand! 😜

I’ve been reading around this, and as far as I can tell I need a 3C8 035 730 X - where the X is a revision letter. I think i read that the later revisions are backwards-compatible, and I need one that does HFP (Hands Free Protocol) for iPhone compatibility as RSAP won’t play with an iPhone. Can anyone confirm that it’s a straight plug-in? Is there any coding/pairing to the car or any other installation ceremony that you have to go through? I’ve found this one on eBay, which is an E revision (fairly late I think) for £180. Pricey, will it work?

Aha! The above part of what you said now makes me think I've been looking at the wrong thing. I've been looking at something attached to the bottom of the seat, not something attached to the floor. So I've slid the plastic cover forward, and lo and behold, there's nothing underneath but an empty metal bracket and a couple of electrical connectors dangling in the breeze! Is this where my BT module should be? Edited to add: You can see a bit of a "shadow" of cleaner metal in a rectangular shape on the bracket, implying that there used to be a module there, but it's gone AWOL.

For clarity, here's what my main menu looks like - no "Phone" menu...

The MFD “Maxi-Dot” display has no “Phone” sub- menu on my car. That’s part of the problem!

I’ve just bought a 2012 Superb Elegance VR6 estate, and I’ve noticed that the car appears not to know that it has BlueTooth. I am assuming Elegance does have BT, right? The “Phone” button on the side of the Columbus unit does nothing (except muting and unmuting the radio). No screen comes up to invite me to pair my phone, as described in the book. The “Media” screen doesn’t have any indication of BlueTooth capability. The “Maxi Dot” main menu does not have a “Phone” sub-menu. Does this mean that the BT module under the driver’s seat is the problem, since neither Columbus nor Maxi-Dot can see BT capability? I’ve tried rebooting the Columbus (holding <> and the top-right button) but as I expected this didn’t change anything. I’ve read elsewhere on BRISKODA about disconnecting and reconnecting the BT module, and looking under the seat I can see a black unit attached to the bottom of the seat with a cable loom connected to it, but I can’t figure out how to release the connector. It really doesn’t want to just pull off, and I’ve tried squeezing the edges but it won’t unclip. I’m sure there must be a knack to disconnecting the BT module; any tips? Or is there something else it could be? Is there a fuse that I should check? Thanks!